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  1. : 步骤 1 中的图像 1,2 : 步骤 1 中的图像 2,2
    • 将Wii手柄翻面,将电池盖对准自己

    • 将底部推开

    • 移除电池盖

  2. : 步骤 2 中的图像 1,1
    • 从第一块电池的正极处按下并拔出电池

    • 从第二块电池的正极处向上推并拔出电池

  3. 这个步骤还没有翻译 帮忙翻译一下

    : 步骤 3 中的图像 1,1
    • Using a tri-point Y1 Screwdriver, remove the two center 7mm screws by turning them counterclockwise.

    • Repeat with the two bottom screws.

  4. 这个步骤还没有翻译 帮忙翻译一下

    : 步骤 4 中的图像 1,2 : 步骤 4 中的图像 2,2
    • With the flat end of a spudger, gently apply pressure to the tabs located on left side of the controller.

    • These tabs are breakable. However, if the tabs are broken the controller will still function.

    • Open the front plate like a book.

    • Small parts may fall out as you open the front plate.

终点

36等其他人完成本指南。

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Emily

于04/14/13注册

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Cal Poly, Team 3-44, Amido Spring 2013 Cal Poly, Team 3-44, Amido Spring 2013 的会员

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创作了26篇指南

4条评论

Worked! Had to solder the tab to contact the battery which had broken. Saved $50.00.

Graham Poor - 回复

The Tools section lists a Tri-Point Y1 Screwdriver but the guide mentions a Tri-Wing Y1 Screwdriver. This could cause people to purchase the wrong item.

iFixit’s guides seem to be based on the original Wii controller, model RVL-003. I’m not sure if Nintendo has changed fasteners for subsequent versions but the Wii MotionPlus Controller, model RVL-036, uses a Tri-Wing Y0 screw.

kivrin - 回复

@kivrin Thanks for your comment. I’m pretty sure it should say tri-point, not tri-wing. I’ll update the instructions. Tri-wing screws have a more twisted/triangular form factor, like this.

Jeff Suovanen -

My controller (the original) had three tri-wing screws and one philips. Not sure why. Had to re-solder the negative battery terminal as it came off the bottom of the ‘top’ (faces bottom) of the board.

audvare - 回复

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