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简介

Follow this guide to replace a faulty or damaged screen on the Nintendo Switch Lite.

Note: Removing the joysticks and buttons isn’t required, but it makes this repair much easier.

Note: If the display glass is cracked or shattered, but the screen still works, you’ll need to replace the digitizer instead.

Note: This procedure requires removing the shield plate and heat sink. The thermal paste will need to be cleaned off of both components—as well as the CPU—and reapplied before reinstalling the shield plate and heat sink.

    • Before beginning this repair, make sure that the device is completely turned off.

    • Use a Y00 screwdriver to remove the four 6.3 mm-long screws securing the back panel.

    • Throughout this repair, keep track of each screw and make sure it goes back exactly where it came from.

  1. Use a Phillips screwdriver to remove the following screws securing the back panel: Two 3.6 mm-long screws on the top of the device
    • Use a Phillips screwdriver to remove the following screws securing the back panel:

    • Two 3.6 mm-long screws on the top of the device

    • Two 3.6 mm-long screws on the bottom of the device

  2. Insert an opening tool into the left speaker grille on the bottom of the device. Twist the opening tool to release the clips securing the back panel.
    • Insert an opening tool into the left speaker grille on the bottom of the device.

    • Twist the opening tool to release the clips securing the back panel.

    • Avoid inserting the opening tool further than required to prevent damage to the speaker module.

  3. Slide the opening tool around the bottom-left corner to release the clips on the left side of the device. Slide the opening tool around the bottom-left corner to release the clips on the left side of the device.
    • Slide the opening tool around the bottom-left corner to release the clips on the left side of the device.

  4. Insert an opening tool into the right speaker grille on the bottom of the device. Twist the opening tool to release the clips.
    • Insert an opening tool into the right speaker grille on the bottom of the device.

    • Twist the opening tool to release the clips.

    • Avoid inserting the opening tool further than required to prevent damage to the speaker module.

  5. Slide and pry the opening tool around the bottom-right corner to release the clips on the right side of the device. Slide and pry the opening tool around the bottom-right corner to release the clips on the right side of the device.
    • Slide and pry the opening tool around the bottom-right corner to release the clips on the right side of the device.

  6. Continue sliding and prying the opening tool along the gap on the top of the device to release the clips. Continue sliding and prying the opening tool along the gap on the top of the device to release the clips.
    • Continue sliding and prying the opening tool along the gap on the top of the device to release the clips.

  7. Lift the bottom edge of the back panel, opening it like a book. Remove the back panel. Remove the back panel.
    • Lift the bottom edge of the back panel, opening it like a book.

    • Remove the back panel.

  8. Use a Phillips screwdriver to remove the following four screws:
    • Use a Phillips screwdriver to remove the following four screws:

    • Three 3.1 mm screws

    • One 4.5 mm screw

  9. Use a spudger or your fingers to lift the shield plate up and out of the device. You may feel a bit of resistance. This is normal, since the shield plate is slightly bonded to the heat sink with thermal paste. Remove the shield plate.
    • Use a spudger or your fingers to lift the shield plate up and out of the device.

    • You may feel a bit of resistance. This is normal, since the shield plate is slightly bonded to the heat sink with thermal paste.

    • Remove the shield plate.

    • Clean off the old thermal paste from the shield plate and heat sink using isopropyl alcohol and a microfiber cloth. Apply new thermal paste to the heat sink before reassembly.

  10. Use an opening tool or your fingernail to flip up the small, hinged locking flap on the motherboard interconnect cable's ZIF connector. Use an opening tool or your fingernail to flip up the small, hinged locking flap on the motherboard interconnect cable's ZIF connector.
    • Use an opening tool or your fingernail to flip up the small, hinged locking flap on the motherboard interconnect cable's ZIF connector.

  11. Use a pair of tweezers to slide the interconnect cable out of its connector on the motherboard. Use a pair of tweezers to slide the interconnect cable out of its connector on the motherboard.
    • Use a pair of tweezers to slide the interconnect cable out of its connector on the motherboard.

  12. Use the point of a spudger to pry the battery connector straight up and out of its socket on the motherboard. Use the point of a spudger to pry the battery connector straight up and out of its socket on the motherboard.
    • Use the point of a spudger to pry the battery connector straight up and out of its socket on the motherboard.

  13. Use the flat end of a spudger or your fingers to carefully peel up the foam that's lightly adhered to the fan.
    • Use the flat end of a spudger or your fingers to carefully peel up the foam that's lightly adhered to the fan.

    • The foam only needs to be peeled back enough to clear the fan.

  14. Use a Phillips screwdriver to remove the three 3 mm screws securing the heat sink to the motherboard.
    • Use a Phillips screwdriver to remove the three 3 mm screws securing the heat sink to the motherboard.

  15. Use a spudger or your fingers to lift the heatsink up and off of the motherboard to remove it. You may feel a bit of resistance. This is normal, since the heat sink is slightly bonded to the CPU with thermal paste. Clean off the old thermal paste from the heat sink and CPU using isopropyl alcohol and a microfiber cloth. Apply new thermal paste to the CPU before reassembly.
    • Use a spudger or your fingers to lift the heatsink up and off of the motherboard to remove it.

    • You may feel a bit of resistance. This is normal, since the heat sink is slightly bonded to the CPU with thermal paste.

    • Clean off the old thermal paste from the heat sink and CPU using isopropyl alcohol and a microfiber cloth. Apply new thermal paste to the CPU before reassembly.

  16. Use an opening tool or your fingernail to flip up the small, hinged locking flap on the game card reader cable's ZIF connector. Use an opening tool or your fingernail to flip up the small, hinged locking flap on the game card reader cable's ZIF connector.
    • Use an opening tool or your fingernail to flip up the small, hinged locking flap on the game card reader cable's ZIF connector.

  17. Use a Phillips screwdriver to remove the seven 3.1 mm screws securing the game card reader and headphone jack.
    • Use a Phillips screwdriver to remove the seven 3.1 mm screws securing the game card reader and headphone jack.

  18. Use a pair of tweezers or your fingers to carefully lift the game card reader and maneuver it to the left to slide the cable out of its connector. Remove the game card reader and headphone jack. Remove the game card reader and headphone jack.
    • Use a pair of tweezers or your fingers to carefully lift the game card reader and maneuver it to the left to slide the cable out of its connector.

    • Remove the game card reader and headphone jack.

  19. Use a Phillips screwdriver to remove the two 4.5 mm screws securing the right trigger button assembly to the motherboard.
    • Use a Phillips screwdriver to remove the two 4.5 mm screws securing the right trigger button assembly to the motherboard.

  20. Remove the right trigger button assembly. Remove the right trigger button assembly.
    • Remove the right trigger button assembly.

  21. Use a pair of tweezers or your fingers to remove the right trigger button assembly's rubber pad if it didn't stay attached to the button assembly. Use a pair of tweezers or your fingers to remove the right trigger button assembly's rubber pad if it didn't stay attached to the button assembly.
    • Use a pair of tweezers or your fingers to remove the right trigger button assembly's rubber pad if it didn't stay attached to the button assembly.

  22. 跳过升级

    通过使用多合一工具包维修可以节省成本。

    购买 iPhone 维修工具套装

    跳过升级

    通过使用多合一工具包维修可以节省成本。

    购买 iPhone 维修工具套装
  23. Use the point of a spudger to pry the black antenna cable straight up out of its socket on the motherboard. Repeat the same process for the white antenna cable. Repeat the same process for the white antenna cable.
    • Use the point of a spudger to pry the black antenna cable straight up out of its socket on the motherboard.

    • Repeat the same process for the white antenna cable.

  24. Use an opening tool or your fingernail to flip up the small, hinged locking flap on the fan cable's ZIF connector.
    • Use an opening tool or your fingernail to flip up the small, hinged locking flap on the fan cable's ZIF connector.

  25. Use a pair of tweezers to slide out the fan cable from its connector on the motherboard. Use a pair of tweezers to slide out the fan cable from its connector on the motherboard.
    • Use a pair of tweezers to slide out the fan cable from its connector on the motherboard.

  26. Use an opening tool or your fingernail to flip up the small, hinged locking flap on the screen cable's ZIF connector. Use an opening tool or your fingernail to flip up the small, hinged locking flap on the screen cable's ZIF connector.
    • Use an opening tool or your fingernail to flip up the small, hinged locking flap on the screen cable's ZIF connector.

  27. Use a pair of tweezers to slide the screen cable out of its connector on the motherboard. Use a pair of tweezers to slide the screen cable out of its connector on the motherboard.
    • Use a pair of tweezers to slide the screen cable out of its connector on the motherboard.

  28. Use an opening tool or your fingernail to flip up the small, hinged locking flap on the digitizer cable's ZIF connector. Use an opening tool or your fingernail to flip up the small, hinged locking flap on the digitizer cable's ZIF connector.
    • Use an opening tool or your fingernail to flip up the small, hinged locking flap on the digitizer cable's ZIF connector.

  29. Use a pair of tweezers to slide the digitizer cable out of its connector on the motherboard. Use a pair of tweezers to slide the digitizer cable out of its connector on the motherboard.
    • Use a pair of tweezers to slide the digitizer cable out of its connector on the motherboard.

  30. Use an opening tool or your fingernail to flip up the small, hinged locking flap on the right joystick cable's ZIF connector. Use an opening tool or your fingernail to flip up the small, hinged locking flap on the right joystick cable's ZIF connector.
    • Use an opening tool or your fingernail to flip up the small, hinged locking flap on the right joystick cable's ZIF connector.

  31. Use a pair of tweezers to slide the right joystick cable out of its connector on the motherboard. Use a pair of tweezers to slide the right joystick cable out of its connector on the motherboard.
    • Use a pair of tweezers to slide the right joystick cable out of its connector on the motherboard.

  32. Use a Phillips screwdriver to remove the following six screws securing the motherboard:
    • Use a Phillips screwdriver to remove the following six screws securing the motherboard:

    • Three 3.1 mm screws

    • Three 4.5 mm screws

  33. Insert a spudger in the gap between the frame and the motherboard and lift the motherboard up and out of its recess. Remove the motherboard assembly. Remove the motherboard assembly.
    • Insert a spudger in the gap between the frame and the motherboard and lift the motherboard up and out of its recess.

    • Remove the motherboard assembly.

  34. Use a Phillips screwdriver to remove the two 3.5 mm screws securing the joystick.
    • Use a Phillips screwdriver to remove the two 3.5 mm screws securing the joystick.

  35. Use your fingers to remove the joystick. There is a thin black gasket around the hole where the joystick pokes through the frame. Try not to disturb this gasket as you remove the joystick.
    • Use your fingers to remove the joystick.

    • There is a thin black gasket around the hole where the joystick pokes through the frame. Try not to disturb this gasket as you remove the joystick.

  36. Use a pair of tweezers or your fingers to pull the left speaker cable straight up and out of its socket on the daughterboard. Do not pull from the wires, or else you risk ripping the wires off the connector.
    • Use a pair of tweezers or your fingers to pull the left speaker cable straight up and out of its socket on the daughterboard.

    • Do not pull from the wires, or else you risk ripping the wires off the connector.

  37. Use a Phillips screwdriver to remove the 4.5 mm screw securing the left speaker module.
    • Use a Phillips screwdriver to remove the 4.5 mm screw securing the left speaker module.

  38. Use your fingers to lift the speaker module up and out of its recess to remove it. Part of the speaker module sits underneath a delicate ribbon cable. Take care not to snag the speaker module on the cable as you remove it. Part of the speaker module sits underneath a delicate ribbon cable. Take care not to snag the speaker module on the cable as you remove it.
    • Use your fingers to lift the speaker module up and out of its recess to remove it.

    • Part of the speaker module sits underneath a delicate ribbon cable. Take care not to snag the speaker module on the cable as you remove it.

  39. Use an opening tool or your fingernail to flip up the small, hinged locking flap on the motherboard interconnect cable's ZIF connector. Use an opening tool or your fingernail to flip up the small, hinged locking flap on the motherboard interconnect cable's ZIF connector.
    • Use an opening tool or your fingernail to flip up the small, hinged locking flap on the motherboard interconnect cable's ZIF connector.

  40. Use a pair of tweezers to slide the motherboard interconnect cable out of its connector on the daughterboard. Use a pair of tweezers to slide the motherboard interconnect cable out of its connector on the daughterboard.
    • Use a pair of tweezers to slide the motherboard interconnect cable out of its connector on the daughterboard.

  41. Use an opening tool or your fingernail to flip up the small, hinged locking flaps on the two ribbon cable ZIF connectors. Use an opening tool or your fingernail to flip up the small, hinged locking flaps on the two ribbon cable ZIF connectors.
    • Use an opening tool or your fingernail to flip up the small, hinged locking flaps on the two ribbon cable ZIF connectors.

  42. Use a pair of tweezers to slide the daughterboard screen cable out of its connector on the motherboard. Repeat this procedure for the volume buttons cable. Repeat this procedure for the volume buttons cable.
    • Use a pair of tweezers to slide the daughterboard screen cable out of its connector on the motherboard.

    • Repeat this procedure for the volume buttons cable.

  43. Use a pair of tweezers or your fingers to remove the volume buttons. Use a pair of tweezers or your fingers to remove the volume buttons.
    • Use a pair of tweezers or your fingers to remove the volume buttons.

  44. Use an opening tool or your fingernail to flip up the small, hinged locking flap on the left joystick cable's ZIF connector. Use an opening tool or your fingernail to flip up the small, hinged locking flap on the left joystick cable's ZIF connector.
    • Use an opening tool or your fingernail to flip up the small, hinged locking flap on the left joystick cable's ZIF connector.

  45. Use a pair of tweezers to slide the left joystick cable out of its connector on the daughterboard. Use a pair of tweezers to slide the left joystick cable out of its connector on the daughterboard.
    • Use a pair of tweezers to slide the left joystick cable out of its connector on the daughterboard.

  46. Use a Phillips screwdriver to remove the two 4.5 mm screws securing the left trigger button assembly.
    • Use a Phillips screwdriver to remove the two 4.5 mm screws securing the left trigger button assembly.

  47. Remove the left trigger button assembly. Remove the left trigger button assembly.
    • Remove the left trigger button assembly.

  48. Use a Phillips screwdriver to remove the following four screws:
    • Use a Phillips screwdriver to remove the following four screws:

    • Two 4.5 mm screws

    • Two 6 mm screws

  49. Use your fingers to lift the daughterboard up and out of its recess to remove it. Use your fingers to lift the daughterboard up and out of its recess to remove it.
    • Use your fingers to lift the daughterboard up and out of its recess to remove it.

  50. Use a Phillips screwdriver to remove the two 3.5 mm screws securing the left joystick.
    • Use a Phillips screwdriver to remove the two 3.5 mm screws securing the left joystick.

  51. Use the flat end of a spudger to lift the joystick up and out of its recess. Use your fingers to remove the joystick. There is a thin black gasket around the hole where the joystick pokes through the frame. Try not to disturb this gasket as you remove the joystick.
    • Use the flat end of a spudger to lift the joystick up and out of its recess.

    • Use your fingers to remove the joystick.

    • There is a thin black gasket around the hole where the joystick pokes through the frame. Try not to disturb this gasket as you remove the joystick.

  52. Use a Phillips screwdriver to remove the following four screws:
    • Use a Phillips screwdriver to remove the following four screws:

    • Three 2.5 mm screws

    • One 6 mm screw

  53. Use a spudger or your fingers to lift the midframe assembly up and out of its recess. Remove the midframe assembly. Remove the midframe assembly.
    • Use a spudger or your fingers to lift the midframe assembly up and out of its recess.

    • Remove the midframe assembly.

  54. At this point in the repair, remove all of the buttons if you haven't done so already, to prevent them from falling out and getting lost. Use these two photos for reference.
    • At this point in the repair, remove all of the buttons if you haven't done so already, to prevent them from falling out and getting lost.

    • Use these two photos for reference.

  55. Heat an iOpener and place it on the back side of the screen along the top edge for 1-2 minutes to help soften the adhesive.
    • Heat an iOpener and place it on the back side of the screen along the top edge for 1-2 minutes to help soften the adhesive.

    • A hair dryer or heat gun may also be used, but be careful not to overheat the screen if you plan on reusing it, as it's susceptible to heat damage.

  56. Insert an opening pick between the frame and the top edge of the screen to begin separating the two components. Insert an opening pick between the frame and the top edge of the screen to begin separating the two components.
    • Insert an opening pick between the frame and the top edge of the screen to begin separating the two components.

  57. Slide the opening pick along the top edge of the screen to slice the adhesive. Slide the opening pick along the top edge of the screen to slice the adhesive. Slide the opening pick along the top edge of the screen to slice the adhesive.
    • Slide the opening pick along the top edge of the screen to slice the adhesive.

  58. Heat the back side of the screen along the right edge for 1-2 minutes to help soften the adhesive.
    • Heat the back side of the screen along the right edge for 1-2 minutes to help soften the adhesive.

  59. Continue sliding the opening pick around the right edge of the screen, slicing the adhesive. The screen and digitizer cables are placed in a way to prevent them from easily snagging on the opening pick, but still use caution when sliding the opening pick along the gap. The screen and digitizer cables are placed in a way to prevent them from easily snagging on the opening pick, but still use caution when sliding the opening pick along the gap.
    • Continue sliding the opening pick around the right edge of the screen, slicing the adhesive.

    • The screen and digitizer cables are placed in a way to prevent them from easily snagging on the opening pick, but still use caution when sliding the opening pick along the gap.

  60. Heat the back side of the screen along the bottom edge for 1-2 minutes to help soften the adhesive.
    • Heat the back side of the screen along the bottom edge for 1-2 minutes to help soften the adhesive.

  61. Continue sliding the opening pick along the bottom edge of the screen to slice the adhesive. You'll need to remove and reinsert the opening pick at various points along the screen's edge to work around the frame. You'll need to remove and reinsert the opening pick at various points along the screen's edge to work around the frame.
    • Continue sliding the opening pick along the bottom edge of the screen to slice the adhesive.

    • You'll need to remove and reinsert the opening pick at various points along the screen's edge to work around the frame.

  62. Heat the back side of the screen along the left edge for 1-2 minutes to help soften the adhesive.
    • Heat the back side of the screen along the left edge for 1-2 minutes to help soften the adhesive.

  63. Continue sliding the opening pick along the left edge of the screen to slice the adhesive. Take care not to snag the screen's daughterboard cable on the opening pick.
    • Continue sliding the opening pick along the left edge of the screen to slice the adhesive.

    • Take care not to snag the screen's daughterboard cable on the opening pick.

  64. Use the flat end of a spudger or your fingers to lift the screen up and out of the frame to remove it. If you're reusing the screen (or your new screen does not come with pre-installed adhesive), follow this guide to install pre-cut adhesive around the perimeter before reassembly. If you're reusing the screen (or your new screen does not come with pre-installed adhesive), follow this guide to install pre-cut adhesive around the perimeter before reassembly.
    • Use the flat end of a spudger or your fingers to lift the screen up and out of the frame to remove it.

    • If you're reusing the screen (or your new screen does not come with pre-installed adhesive), follow this guide to install pre-cut adhesive around the perimeter before reassembly.

  65. If you're also replacing the digitizer, you can skip this step. Use the flat end of a spudger to scrape off the remaining adhesive around the perimeter of the digitizer. Prior to installing a new screen, use isopropyl alcohol and a microfiber cloth to clean and remove any residual adhesive from the back side of the digitizer. Wait several minutes for any remaining alcohol to evaporate before installing the screen.
    • If you're also replacing the digitizer, you can skip this step.

    • Use the flat end of a spudger to scrape off the remaining adhesive around the perimeter of the digitizer.

    • Prior to installing a new screen, use isopropyl alcohol and a microfiber cloth to clean and remove any residual adhesive from the back side of the digitizer. Wait several minutes for any remaining alcohol to evaporate before installing the screen.

结论

To reassemble your device, follow these instructions in reverse order.

Take your e-waste to an R2 or e-Stewards certified recycler.

Repair didn’t go as planned? Try some basic troubleshooting, or ask our Nintendo Switch Lite Answers community for help.

Craig Lloyd

于2016年02月10日注册

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