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The first thing we noticed about the D5100 was that the body was nowhere near the same heft as our standard workhorse camera, the D90. It just felt... punier.
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And then we took some photos with it.
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The photos came out amazing. The colors were crisp, and we could even get away with usable (albeit super-grainy) ISO 6400 shots, which is certainly not the case with the D90's ISO 3200.
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The flippy rotating screen is very useful -- especially if you're trying to record yourself for YouTube.
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Unlike the D90, the top of the camera does not include an informational LCD. Instead, we get the rotating mode selector on the right.
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The specs:
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16.2 MP DX-format CMOS sensor
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4 FPS continuous shooting
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3.0 inch, 921,000-dot display
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1920x1080 recording at up to 30 FPS
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11-point AF (auto-focus) system
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First thing's first: take out the battery. We don't want any electric juice running through the D5100's veins while we're taking it apart.
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The 7.4 V 1030 mAh EN-EL14 Li-ion battery is used by the D5100, D3100, and the COOLPIX P700. Sadly, it's not compatible with other cameras in the Nikon lineup, such as the D90 and D7000.
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The camera has roughly 4 billion screws holding it together. We'll be skipping a lot of the "unscrewing this screw" pictures (like the ones shown in this step) in order to keep the teardown interesting.
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Trust us, after the 50th screw, it gets boring.
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As if exposed screws weren't enough, Nikon also chose to hide screws underneath covers and the rubberized thumb grip.
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After a good twenty #00 Phillips screws were removed from the perimeter of the device, we managed to separate the rear cover.
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A ribbon cable for the rear control buttons and a hefty 40 pin cable responsible for transmitting information to the rear display still attached the rear cover to the rest of the camera.
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Front view of the motherboard. (High-res version of the motherboard, click here):
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Nikon EXPEED 2 EI-154 1051 Z05 image processor
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Samsung K4T1G164QF-BCE7 1Gb DDR2-800 SDRAM (total of 3 Gb = 384 MB)
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MXIC MX29GL128EHXFI-90G 128 Mb parallel flash memory
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Rear view of the motherboard. (High-res version, click here):
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Toshiba TMP19A44FEXBG low-power microcontroller
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Nikon EI-155 M4L1BA00 00151044
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Nikon NHHS-2 049M8
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And just like that, the front cover can be pulled off the camera body.
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With it gone, you can get a good look at most of the components that make the D5100 roar.
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An electric motor (presumably linked to the shutter) can be seen next to the battery door, and the gigantic flash capacitor is housed right behind the lens release button.
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The top cover is a feat of engineering by itself. Within its walls are contained:
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Main control wheel, shutter/aperture control wheel, live view lever, On/Off switch, "info" button, record button, shutter button, exposure compensation button, IR sensor, AF lamp, flash, flash control circuitry, flash actuator, and the microphone.
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The D5100 utilizes a 16.2 megapixel DX format CMOS sensor to capture images.
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Chipworks reports that each pixel is 4.8 µm wide. That's about half the diameter of a red blood cell!
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The sensor has a special glass cover that turns red when viewed at an angle. Neat! (This is the "hot mirror," which filters out the infrared spectrum.)
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Nikon D5100 Repairability Score: 2 out of 10 (10 is easiest to repair)
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The battery can be easily replaced by opening the compartment with your thumbnail.
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The rear cover comes off with minimal unscrewing/desoldering (for this kind of device), allowing you to access the motherboard.
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The D5100 has several wires that need to be desoldered in order to take it apart.
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Approximately 4 billion screws hold the device together.
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Components are very tightly packed, making it more difficult to disconnect and remove them.
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For absolute safety, you need to discharge the flash capacitor, otherwise you risk accidentally killing your camera.
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26条评论
Thanks a lot! This camera has already made history for me. Because on April 10th I bought a Nikon D3100, not knowing about the new D5100. The day the camera arrived I went to the Nikon web site, where I could now look at the "New Nikon D5100". I was very uncomfortable about that and couldn't sleep all night. In the morning I packed up the D3100 and send it back. The advantages of the D5100 over the D3100 make the couple a hundred bucks extra look ridiculously cheap. Alone the LCD Panel!
While it is with great pleasure to see You doing what I always loved to do, but my new 5100-Baby shall not be tampered with by Yours truly.
This is GREAT !! This has already helped me (by letting me know it was safe to wriggle-off the rubber side-plate over the a/v area). Just to confirm though: Am I correct in thinking that the front can be removed independently from needing to (previously) disassemble the back ? For most consumers - their audacity ends with ribbon-cables and certainly before desoldering... but "screws, i can do". Also - how exactly does one "non-destructively" remove the rubber hand-grip?
These questions are likely to become increasingly relevant because this camera is bound to be a runaway hit. But since N_kon doesn't want to undermine their more-expensive "pro-ish" offerings, they seem (IMHO) to be "de-faciliting" certain features and accessories (like a vertical grip). This means than D5100 owners will be searching for hacks that don't discernably void their warranty (i.e. "future un-doable hacks"). THANKS !!
Super, used this to repair a D3100, the only extra trick was removing the diopter adjuster label to access hidden screw, otherwise as per your guide!
John in NZ - 回复
How did you remove the diopter label?!
Randy11 -