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简介

How to remove and replace Microsoft Surface Pro 4 Battery.

  1. Insert one point of a pair of pointed tweezers into a gap in the corner of the EMI shield covering the heat sink. Use the tweezers to pry the EMI shield away from the motherboard as much as you can without bending it. Do not remove it yet.
    • Insert one point of a pair of pointed tweezers into a gap in the corner of the EMI shield covering the heat sink.

    • Use the tweezers to pry the EMI shield away from the motherboard as much as you can without bending it. Do not remove it yet.

    • Take care not to puncture the battery with the tweezers while working on this shield.

  2. Repeat the last step at various locations around the perimeter of the EMI shield covering the heat sink. Remove the CPU shield. Remove the CPU shield.
    • Repeat the last step at various locations around the perimeter of the EMI shield covering the heat sink.

    • Remove the CPU shield.

  3. Use a T3 Torx screwdriver to remove two screws from the heat sink:
    • Use a T3 Torx screwdriver to remove two screws from the heat sink:

    • One 2.4 mm screw along the top of the rectangular plate covering the battery

    • One 2.2 mm screw along the bottom of the rectangular plate covering the battery

  4. The heat sink is firmly adhered to the fan.
    • The heat sink is firmly adhered to the fan.

    • Use a Phillips screwdriver to remove three 2.4 mm screws securing the fan.

    • Use a T5 Torx screwdriver to remove the final 4.4 mm screw securing in the fan cover.

    These screws were in a different area on my Surface, Pro 4 bought at release. The fan was visible and attached to the heat sink. Remove the two torx screws on the fan housing. No need to remove the Philips head screws that secure the fan.

    mike_mcquillan - 回复

    My Surface Pro 4 has a fan here. Remove the screws around the fan and the whole heatsink including the fan can now be lifted off. DO NOT try and remove the heatsink from the fan as it is glued on.

    Andy - 回复

    Sorry I’m super brand new to the game. I don’t know the difference between 1.5mm Torx T4 and 3.0mm Torx T4. I look under tools I need to buy, and the tool kits only say Torx T4 or T5, without the milimeters dimensions.

    MInh Le Nguyen - 回复

    Je fais écho au commentaire de vennic, les longueurs indiqués en mm sont les longueurs des vis et n’impactent pas les tournevis à utiliser. Bien ranger les vis par longueur permets de mettre les bonnes vis aux bons endroits lors du remontage de l’appareil.

    Cajuteq -

    MInh Le Nguyen, the mm size refers to the length of the screws, not the size of the bit driver

    vennic - 回复

    Don’t forget to unplug the fan (if present) before yanking on the heat sink! It’s just a small grey clasp that needs to be lifted up.

    vennic - 回复

    The fan connector on mine was held in place by a white clamp on the side closest to the middle of the chassis. The long edge toward the middle flips up to vertical. That frees up the fan connector. Likewise for the black “wire” connector right beside it.

    David Hill - 回复

  5. Use a T3 Torx screwdriver to remove the heat sink screws surrounding the CPU in the following pattern, one turn at a time, until they're free.
    • Use a T3 Torx screwdriver to remove the heat sink screws surrounding the CPU in the following pattern, one turn at a time, until they're free.

    • Screw 1

    • Screw 2

    • Screw 3

    • Screw 4

    • During reassembly, use the same method to install these screws, tightening one turn at a time until each screw is snug.

  6. Use the flat end of a spudger to gently pry the heat sink straight up and off of the CPU. Take care not to dent or crease the heat sink pipes during removal.
    • Use the flat end of a spudger to gently pry the heat sink straight up and off of the CPU.

    • Take care not to dent or crease the heat sink pipes during removal.

  7. Insert the pointed end of a spudger into a screw hole in the fan shield and lift up to separate it from the fan. The fan shield is held in place with light adhesive. Take care not to dent or crease the heat sink pipes during removal.
    • Insert the pointed end of a spudger into a screw hole in the fan shield and lift up to separate it from the fan.

    • The fan shield is held in place with light adhesive.

    • Take care not to dent or crease the heat sink pipes during removal.

  8. Carefully remove the heatsink.
  9. Disconnect black wire from motherboard.
    • Disconnect black wire from motherboard.

  10. Remove the six 1.5 mm Torx T3 screws securing the motherboard.
    • Remove the six 1.5 mm Torx T3 screws securing the motherboard.

  11. Use plastic opening tool to remove metal casing at the bottom left corner of the motherboard.
    • Use plastic opening tool to remove metal casing at the bottom left corner of the motherboard.

  12. Remove remaining screw.
    • Remove remaining screw.

    • 2.0 mm Torx T4 screw.

  13. The battery is attached to the device by strong adhesive tape. Use a plastic opening tool to pry around the underside of the battery. Peel the battery up and away from the bottom of the device.
    • The battery is attached to the device by strong adhesive tape. Use a plastic opening tool to pry around the underside of the battery.

    • Peel the battery up and away from the bottom of the device.

    • Do not use metal tools for this step. the battery can leak harmful substances if punctured.

  14. In order to prevent a short circuit, insert a piece of cardboard, paper or plastic between the battery connector and motherboard before sliding the battery cable out from under the motherboard. Also be careful to protect the motherboard from shorts while placing the cable for the new battery. Detach the battery from under the motherboard. Remove from the device.
    • In order to prevent a short circuit, insert a piece of cardboard, paper or plastic between the battery connector and motherboard before sliding the battery cable out from under the motherboard.

    • Also be careful to protect the motherboard from shorts while placing the cable for the new battery.

    • Detach the battery from under the motherboard. Remove from the device.

结论

To reassemble your device, follow these instructions in reverse order.

86等其他人完成本指南。

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54条评论

thanks for this, use my surface pro 4 all the time, batteries are a disposable item and really need to be user replaceable

(if a company doesn't have a battery replacement service as good as apple's that is)

Bit of hassle but glad it can be done, zero idea where to get a replacement battery from though )-:

Adrian - 回复

found ! selling on ebay, look totally genuine too

Adrian - 回复

excellent presentation. I’d never try it myself. But I came here with what appears to be a battery problem. If you accept it as a bit offtopic: my battery icon reads 100%. when I am connected to my adaptor. When I remove the aadaptor plug, the screen goes to only a faint outline…to faint to read what % the battery is reading at. Any thoughts? I’m in a rural area of South West Thailand. So, v difficult to get to a reliable repair shop. Thanks !

paddy - 回复

This is probably too late for you now, you’ve probably solved this. But for anyone else experiencing this issue, it COULD be the power options. Windows automatically changes the screen brightness when you unplug, you could’ve accidentally set it right down. Go to Control Panel (Small Icons view) > Power Options. There should be options in there for what to do when removing the power adapter. Sorry I can’t be more specific, I’m on a desktop so it doesn’t have the right options to explain it fully.

dave.robilliard -

Thanks for the tutorial. Managed to break a display cable anyway T_T. Just broke itself… The rest was almost a piece of cake.

Seriously WHY so much shields on the motherboard, its insane… As a Mac Technician for almost two decades never saw such a mess (well except the powerbook 12” maybe).

That being said, I love my Surface !

huexley Yannick - 回复

I believe it is shielding EMF/EMI from the LCD, since everything is mounted right behind the LCDin extremely close proximity, electromagnetic interference can distort the picture, at least that’s the theory. On a Mac or traditional laptop, the LCD is well away from the current carrying portions of the laptop

Glen D -

+ 30 just for the 12” Powerbook comment!

lisagrant -

Anyone knows if the Surface Pro is able to run without battery? Connected to power supply of cause.

Søren B - 回复

I was not able to run it with the dead battery, even plugged in. It would start to boot, but once the OS kicked in with all the graphics, it would die. I managed to get Ubuntu Linux to work on it a little better, but I would not suggest it. It did not work well enough to use, and Ubuntu didn’t have drivers to run the pen or touch screen very well. Ultimately, replacing the battery worked, and I am now enjoying my Surface Pro 4 again!

Ray Sewell -

I would also be very interested to know. Any feedback from your question ?

Julien Krieger -

I have two under my belt now.

First was a broken screen, very difficult getting the screen off without leaving shards of glass attached to the adhesive. Replaced all adhesive with new.

Second was a battery that was expanding lifting the left side of the screen. Since the left side was lifted this made getting it started for easier. Screen came off intact. The speaker wire (Red/Black) is very fragile, I pulled the pins out of the holder when trying to remove. I was able to put them back. I would avoid it if you can as you only have to lift the mother board high enough to get the battery out and back in. There is enough slack, so I would recommend only removing if absolutely necessary. Followed tip to remove and replace thermal paste (Cleaner and paste (~$15). Had to replace the adhesive under the batter, just ran several stripes of the 2mm adhesive that I used for the display.

This site was a great guide.

mike_mcquillan - 回复

Thank you for this teardown and instructions! I just finished repairing my Surface Pro 4 after it sat for a year as a brick when the battery died. (I couldn’t get it to reliably boot up - and stay up - with a bad battery, even when it was plugged in.) I purchased all of the suggested equipment but ended up having to use a razor to shave off some of the aluminum case - near the indentation where the speakers are - in order to get the opening pick under the screen. The pictures were very helpful. Mine had a fan attached to the heat sink on the left side of the device, which meant there were a couple more screws to remove, but otherwise, the teardown was spot on.

Ray Sewell - 回复

Hi friend

Where I can get original battery for my Surface Pro 4?

Please give me link

Many thanks

Andread - 回复

Which part of the screen is the actual touch screen connection? I just did all of this and my touch is off a bit. I touch one place and it moves one other place. The pen isn’t accurate anymore either. My guess is it’s that housed connection on the back of the screen itself? I can take this thing apart again and just try it; just wanted to see if anyone had the exact connections..

Thanks

Ward Anderson - 回复

Kinda strange that they take the hear directly to the battery…. I might be paranoid but it smells a little fishy to me!

Also they should make battery replacements way easier! Surface pros are almost a disposable tablet. I didn’t buy one purely cause of this, but I love them so much!

Chloe Mcholoe - 回复

Super !!! Vielen Dank für die Anleitung. Ich habe mir zwar ein wenig mehr Zeit gelassen aber alles funktioniert ;-) der neue Akku läd wieder und mein Surface Pro 4 läuft wieder. Danke noch mal. Achso und es gab noch gleich eine größere SSD =)

Viele Grüße,

Michael

Michael Krömer - 回复

my pro 4 is not working with the replaced battery, only works when plugged in. please what can i do?

Samuel David - 回复

It was challenging for me to get the contacts in the right place. Aside from that, could be a bad diode. https://www.aonemobiles.com.au/2020/03/m...

vennic -

same here, changed the swollen battery, surface boots only with adapter and windows reports 100% full battery. Is there a calibration tool or something?

philipploeffler - 回复

Sounds like a bad voltage diode. I had similar problem replacing battery, screen and diode on mine.

Alfredo -

hallo, kann man das Sur face auch zur Reparatur schicken?

Johannes Baumgartner - 回复

I change the battery on mine (twice !!!) and it doesn’t charge the new battery.

However, the old battery is charged when plugged in.

If anyone has any info..

Thanks

WhuzDaMan - 回复

I seem to be having a similar issue. I have yet to find out what is wrong. If you ever find out what is wrong let me know; I have heard it could be a blown resistor but have yet to find one that does not give a voltage readout.

Logan Rocha -

Thanks for tutorial, but I wonder that if I remove battery and only use power adaptor ( while wait a new battery ) , I can use it as a pc ?

Tai Le - 回复

Be careful around the antenna when removing the display. I sheared the antenna sticker in half and needed to wait 30 days for a new antenna (25$).

Otherwise, the repair was very doable once the screen is off. The recommended adhesive (tesa), does make the display sit lower than original, giving the border a slight sharp edge all around. I would recommend a slightly thicker adhesive for reassembly.

Henri - 回复

Hallo,

kann man das Surface auch ohne Akku, nur mit dem Netzteil, betreiben ?

Achim Dresser - 回复

I have purchased and successfully follow the guide to replace my battery. But it seems that i am not able to restore charge amount of time when at 100% it’s only report 1 hour and a half approx.. when on the new battery. Is there any tool or calibration to restore this new battery that I purchased from ifixt to full capacity?.

It look the new battery is original here is what it shows using battery only power:

Description Value

Battery Name X910527

Manufacture Name SMP

Power State Discharging

Current Capacity (in %) 80.4%

Current Capacity Value 26,092 mWh

Full Charged Capacity 32,445 mWh

Designed Capacity 38,152 mWh

Battery Health 85.0%

Voltage 7,896 millivolts

Charge/Discharge Rate -6,480 milliwatts

Chemistry Lithium Ion

Low Battery Capacity (1) 983 mWh

Low Battery Capacity (2) 3,244 mWh

Number of charge/discharge cycles 229

Remaining battery time for the current activity (Estimated) 03:37:46

Full battery time for the current activity (Estimated) 04:30:48

Remaining time for charging the battery (Estimated)

lagarescarlos - 回复

Thanks for this information and useful comments.

I need to add that my Pro4’s heat tube has a cooling fan , so I needed to disconnect the fan cable connector by the power switch connector.

Mikio Kuge - 回复

ahhhh This has been a nightmare trying to perform. The shields are such a pain in the ass!

Matt Faherty - 回复

CAUTION! I completed this process to replace the battery on mine, and there is one IMPORTANT step that should be on this guide. Before removing the battery, a plastic card should be inserted between the battery contacts and the underside of the mainboard to isolate the battery from the contacts on the underside of the mainboard. When I was working the adhesive on the battery contacts from the chassis, the connections crossed and shorted something and burned out the IT8528VG chip. I contacted a repair shop regarding replacement of this part and they said it requires a hot air station to remove and micro soldering to replace. They said they see this common error when repairing. Now my Surface is a paperweight. Please add this crucial step to these instructions.

It is very frustrating to have performed this long, difficult process perfectly, with an intact Surface screen at the end, only to have irreparably destroyed it because of one important missing step.

Kyle Wagner - 回复

This can happen because of a blown battery.

Iam still searching why my pro4 isn't running from the battery only with the power connector.

philip oeh -

Appreciate the guide, this was an absolute pain to replace and I do NOT care for removing a battery as easy to damage as these when they’re mounted with such an obscene amount of adhesive. This guide allowed me to do so regardless, thanks.

SparkWorx - 回复

READ ALL STEPS AND COMMENTS FIRST BEFORE STARTING!!!

My surface would not charge the battery and would go dead if unplugged, then would go dead on reboot unless given a hard restart. New battery fixed the issue.

Step 18 is incomplete without reading the comments first, you could apparently brick your device if you don’t remove the old battery using a step that is not included in the guide. Also the guide gives NO guidance on detaching the battery contact strip from the shell, or how to properly install the new battery, which is odd, considering the title of the article. I (and others) wrote some comments on step 18 that should be helpful. The rest of the guide was great, but as is, incomplete.

vennic - 回复

I recently attempted this repair but with a new battery installed the device now won’t power on. The old battery was severely swollen and despite being as careful as possible I tore the outer foil wrapper and even tore the connector on the battery during removal (the battery did not smoke or seem that it had shorted). Regardless, it’s pretty clear that the device is shorted and is now bricked, right? Is there any remedy or is the motherboard “fried”?

I wish I would have seen the comments on step 18 about putting an insulator (paper) between the old battery and motherboard when removing. This may have saved my device.

Tabaplar - 回复

Just finished replacing the antenna and the battery on Surface Pro4. I highly recommend ignoring the steps to remove the battery without removing the motherboard (mb). Removing the mb is less difficult than trying to get the battery ribbon in and out. As many have learned, you can brick your mb, and, like me not get it aligned properly causing “no battery detected”. After removing the mb, I was able to realign the battery ribbon properly and all worked great. This video is great at removing the mb. Don’t worry about removing the buttons, left speaker, or SSD (they won’t interfere).

Youtube video number: n74Pc_luSGI (How to Take Apart the Microsoft Surface Pro 4)

Once mb is removed, remove the battery, and install the new battery, insuring the battery ribbon is on the plastic locator pin (not in instructions), place adhesive under ribbon to hold in proper place for contacts on the mb.

I purchased these and both work great:

Battery (Amazon ASIN): B08595GYBN

Antenna (Amazon ASIN): B08PV8SZ3R

bncote - 回复

Please add a disclaimer about how to AVOID shorting out the motherboard!!!

Ryan Sicard - 回复

This is some kind of sick joke, right? I just got through this and took out my battery. I do not know how the heck I’m going to get this thing back together.

What’s this paste where the old battery terminal connection was and how the heck am I supposed to get the new battery into place

Nicholas Redding - 回复

Did anyone have to use an adhesive to reseat the screen or did you just reheat the original adhesive?

Scott Evans - 回复

You need new adhesive

philip oeh -

Will a samsung 970 evo plus be fine to replace in the SP4? I know the 970 evo works fine, but just dont know the difference.

quinton - 回复

This worked great for me except I’m now having a problem with my computer not wanting to start up when I have the screen in place. If I hold it by the edges just above the computer, it boots up fine. There must be something touching that shouldn’t and cause it to turn off. Anyone have this problem or have an idea of how I can troubleshoot it?

Marianne Barrier - 回复

I would HIGHLY suggest removing the entire motherboard when performing this repair. It’s just another few screws and a few ribbon cables to take it out, and it will make removing and installing the new battery 10 times easier and allow you to align it properly. The guide is not kidding about the adhesive holding the back of the battery in place - it is very strong! I ended up using a heat gun on the back side of the device (underneath the kickstand) to help soften it a little bit, and an old credit card to help pry the battery out.

Cameron Bunch - 回复

A few thoughts, having done this over the weekend:

First, get yourself one of those sets of three plastic putty knives from the hardware store (the ones that have 3 different sizes). The middle size was the same size as the battery, and made removal of the battery while heating the back of the case a breeze.

Second, remove the tiny screws (two on each side) holding the kickstand to the hinges. It’ll let you fold it all the way back, which makes heating the backside much easier.

Third, while you’re in there, scrape out the copious and ill-applied thermal paste from on and around the CPU dies, and put on something decent. I did, and my Pro 4 is running much cooler now.

Last, TAKE YOUR TIME. I managed to remove and replace my screen without issue, but it took me a bit more than two hours to get it removed, and then remove the adhesive from the case and the back of the screen. I started in the upper-right corner, used the iFixIt Jimmy, and kept the heat gun around the bezel only, just slightly ahead of the Jimmy

tbldr - 回复

I have a Surface Pro 4 with a swollen battery. actually it’s the second time the battery has swollen. I have a question: Is it possible to remove the battery and just plug the device in whenever I want to use it? Does Surface Pro 4 work without battery?

محمد یوسفی‌شیرازی - 回复

It does work without the battery. I had no problem plugging it in and testing it without the battery connected.

NotABerger _ -

I just finished doing this repair yesterday and I have a few tips for people trying this repair. First of all, when removing the display, be really careful on the sides of the camera assembly, because this is where the antennas are located. These antennas are sandwiched between the adhesive that holds the display on and the frame of the device, so it is very easy to break them when you are opening up the device. I actually did end up breaking one of the antenna “flex cable” style pcb’s, but luckily I didnt break any of the traces and my antennas seem to work fine. Also, test the antennas, and make sure the device is able to charge at least a few percent before gluing the display back in place, as the battery might not be able to charge if the connectors to the battery aren’t all connected. This is a very difficult repair, and it feels like Microsoft tried to make the battery one of the most difficult parts to replace. Getting the display off is hard, but it is only the first step.

NotABerger _ - 回复

I just finished doing this repair yesterday and I have a few tips for people trying this repair. First of all, when removing the display, be really careful on the sides of the camera assembly, because this is where the antennas are located. These antennas are sandwiched between the adhesive that holds the display on and the frame of the device, so it is very easy to break them when you are opening up the device. I actually did end up breaking one of the antenna “flex cable” style pcb’s, but luckily I didnt break any of the traces and my antennas seem to work fine. Also, test the antennas, and make sure the device is able to charge at least a few percent before gluing the display back in place, as the battery might not be able to charge if the connectors to the battery aren’t all connected. This is a very difficult repair, and it feels like Microsoft tried to make the battery one of the most difficult parts to replace. Getting the display off is hard, but it is only the first step.

NotABerger _ - 回复

It does work without the battery. I had no problem plugging it in and testing it without the battery connected.

NotABerger _ - 回复

hooo, ok that is interested. Thanks for sharing. So the battery case empty ?

Julien Krieger -

Super erklärt und es funktioniert auch!! Schade dass wir so eine Wegwerfgesellschaft geworden sind, aber so kann man als Firma eben Umsatz machen! Top Anleitung!!

Michael Eller - 回复

“No battery detected” after install.. :-(

Sterling Baird - 回复

Habe den Akku erfolgreich getauscht und konnte das Surface anschließend auch wieder starten. Allerdings wird seitdem das Ladekabel (hat vorher einwandfrei funktioniert) nicht mehr erkannt. Jetzt habe ich das Problem dass der Akku nicht geladen wird und auch kein Netzbetrieb möglich ist. Damit ist nun ein neuer Akku drin, benutzen kann ich das Surface aber leider weiterhin nicht :-(. Hat jemand eine Idee was ich ncoh machen könnte?

Dominik - 回复

It’s nuts to me that, knowing full and well that blowing a backlight fuse is so %#*@ easy when accidentally hitting a power on input while servicing the device, that manufacturers willingly make the battery the last thing you can unplug. Great breakdown.

Davey Wavey - 回复

Thanks for the detailed tutorial.

IMHO it’s better to fully remove the motherboard (what I personnaly did), this has the following advantages:

- no shortcircuit risk when ungluing the battery flex-pcb.

- better access to the right side of the battery to remove it.

- easier to precisely stick the flex-pcb on the case after replacing the battery.

nietfou - 回复

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