简介
Use this guide to replace a blown-out microphone.
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Remove the following ten screws securing the lower case to the upper case:
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Seven 3 mm Phillips screws.
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Three 13.5 mm Phillips screws.
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Using both hands, lift the lower case near the vent to pop it off two clips securing it to the upper case.
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Remove the lower case and set it aside.
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Remove the two 5-Point Pentalobe screws along the top edge of the battery.
Question: why do you remove the battery? According to Apple's official manual, this is not required (not for the mid-2009 and not for the mid-2010 15-inch MacBook Pro) - see pages 37 ff:
来自 alexkli 的话:
Question: why do you remove the battery? According to Apple's official manual, this is not required (not for the mid-2009 and not for the mid-2010 15-inch MacBook Pro) - see pages 37 ff:
I'm interested by your experience.
Did you have removed the optical drive without removing the battery ?
I'm just in this step now and if it is possible I would proceed like you because removing the battery void the warranty (and there is a sticker).
Thanks in advance.
Looks like my note to step 3 appears on all repair guides that have the same step. I meant that in the context of the hard drive replacement only.
Did you have removed the optical drive without removing the battery ?
I haven't yet done anything, waiting for my MacBook Pro 15 inch mid-2010 to arrive.
I missed the notes and went ahead and purchased the 5 point driver for the battery before I realized it was not necessary.
I've edited the repair guide to remove the section on the battery, but I don't have the points to approve the changes.
Please note - the step about removing the battery is part of a pre-requisite guide, that is used for many of the guides, most that do require removal of the battery. Also, working inside a disassembled laptop with the battery still connected risks damaging/shorting out very expensive parts.
Eric Essen - 回复
Absolutely. To be clear -- ALL of the above discussion is ONLY in reference to replacing the hard drive.
I replaced a hard drive in a MacBook Pro of an earlier model than this without removing the battery. The hard drive wasn't right. It only worked at about half speed, and I had to replace it once more. The second time I removed the battery and all went well. The recommendation by the iFixit staff to remove the battery before working on electronic equipment is a good one.
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Use the tip of a spudger to bend back the finger of the "Warning: Do not remove the battery" sticker while you remove third five-point Pentalobe screw hidden underneath.
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Lift the battery by its plastic pull tab and slide it away from the long edge of the upper case.
My T6 (appears to be same screw driver you have - $6 on amazon for 20piece set) did NOT fit int he battery screws...not sure if I had the wrong screws or what, but I went ahead w/o battery steps and it was pretty easy.
I also noticed that the new SDD (from crucial) didn't have the 4 screws, so I had to move those off the old HD and onto the new one.
Just had the same issue: T6 does not fit the battery screws ;-( ... but with a little bit more preassure it was possible to remove the screws.
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Tilt the battery back enough to access the battery cable connector.
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Pull the battery cable connector away from its socket on the logic board and remove the battery from the upper case.
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Use a spudger to pry the fan connector straight up off the logic board.
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Remove the three T6 Torx screws securing the left fan to the logic board.
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Lift the fan out of the upper case.
Top left screw in this picture isn't a torx screw, and should be left in place. The screw you want is a bit further down than the one circled.
Good catch! It's fixed now.
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Use the flat end of a spudger to disconnect the left fan connector from the logic board.
I didn't understand the description of the step to remove the fan connectors and I broke them both off. However! If anyone else does this, don't panic, the soldered connections are not electrical; they're just there to secure the fan connector. If you have the equipment you may be able to solder them back on, but I just put the whole thing back together - carefully sliding the jack back over the pins - and held it down with polyimide tape. I am using my Macbook Pro right now and the fans are definitely working.
For my Mid 2009 Macbook Pro, I only had one fan, so didn't have to do step 9 and 10.
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Remove the three T6 Torx screws securing the left fan to the logic board.
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Lift the left fan out of the upper case.
For my Mid 2009 Macbook Pro, I only had one fan, so didn't have to do step 9 and 10.
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Hold the end of the cable retainer down with one finger while you use the tip of a spudger to slightly lift the other end and rotate it away from the camera cable connector.
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Disconnect the camera cable by pulling the male end straight away from its socket.
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Disconnect the camera cable by pulling the male end straight away from its socket.
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Use the flat end of a spudger to pry the optical drive cable connector up off the logic board.
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Using the flat end of a spudger, pry the subwoofer connector straight up from the connector jack.
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Use the flat end of a spudger to pry the hard drive/IR sensor cable connector up off the logic board.
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Remove the two 1.5 mm Phillips screws securing the cable cover to the logic board.
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Lift the cable cover out of the upper case.
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Use a spudger to pry the trackpad flex ribbon cable connector up off the logic board.
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Use your fingernail to flip up the locking flap on the ZIF socket for the keyboard ribbon cable.
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Use the tip of a spudger to slide the keyboard ribbon cable out of its socket.
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Use a spudger to pry the battery indicator ribbon cable connector up off the logic board.
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Remove the single 7 mm Phillips screw securing the display data cable retainer to the upper case.
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Remove the display data cable retainer from the upper case.
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Grab the plastic pull tab secured to the display data cable lock and rotate it toward the DC-in side of the computer.
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Pull the display data cable connector straight away from its socket.
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Using the tip of a spudger, flip up the keyboard backlight ribbon cable retaining flap.
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Pull the keyboard backlight ribbon cable straight out of its socket.
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Remove the following screws:
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Seven 3.3 mm T6 Torx screws securing the logic board to the upper case.
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Two 8 mm T6 Torx screws securing the DC-In board to the upper case.
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Carefully lift the logic board assembly from the left side and work it out of the upper case, minding the port side that may get caught during removal.
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Lift the logic board enough to gain clearance and use a spudger to pry the microphone up off the upper case.
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Slide the logic board away from the port openings and lift the assembly out of the upper case.
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Slide the logic board away from the port openings and lift the assembly out of the upper case.
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Remove the small strip of tape covering the left speaker connector.
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Use the flat end of a spudger to pry the left speaker connector up off its socket on the logic board.
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Remove the two 5 mm Phillips screws securing the left speaker to the logic board.
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Lift the left speaker off the logic board.
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Use the flat end of a spudger to pry the microphone cable connector up off its socket on the logic board.
To reassemble your device, follow these instructions in reverse order.
To reassemble your device, follow these instructions in reverse order.
2等其他人完成本指南。
