简介
This guide is an internal prerequisite and should remain unpublished.
你所需要的
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Remove the three T6 Torx screws securing the left fan to the logic board.
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Lift the fan out of the upper case.
Top left screw in this picture isn't a torx screw, and should be left in place. The screw you want is a bit further down than the one circled.
Good catch! It's fixed now.
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Use the flat end of a spudger to disconnect the left fan connector from the logic board.
I didn't understand the description of the step to remove the fan connectors and I broke them both off. However! If anyone else does this, don't panic, the soldered connections are not electrical; they're just there to secure the fan connector. If you have the equipment you may be able to solder them back on, but I just put the whole thing back together - carefully sliding the jack back over the pins - and held it down with polyimide tape. I am using my Macbook Pro right now and the fans are definitely working.
For my Mid 2009 Macbook Pro, I only had one fan, so didn't have to do step 9 and 10.
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Remove the three T6 Torx screws securing the left fan to the logic board.
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Lift the left fan out of the upper case.
For my Mid 2009 Macbook Pro, I only had one fan, so didn't have to do step 9 and 10.
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Hold the end of the cable retainer down with one finger while you use the tip of a spudger to slightly lift the other end and rotate it away from the camera cable connector.
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Disconnect the camera cable by pulling the male end straight away from its socket.
I’ve tried to clear things up in a pending modification, since I also had problems getting the point of this step. Hope it helps.
The “strip” is the shiny black thing on the photo. The tip of the spudger is “pointing” at it on the photo. In fact it is already pushing the “strip” out of the way to be able to pull out the connector.
I finally got my system back together & running so much cooler after removing, cleaning the heat sink & repasting the CPU die & the two GPU dies. But working backward from this step to put it back together was most arduous: neither camera nor WiFi/Bluetooth worked when I first put the system back together. This is because it was hard to gauge that this connector was indeed back together and hold it so, based on 12 year-old fabric-padded adhesive alone. In the end, I checked that no pins in the connector were bent, guided them in as firmly as a flat spudger (not my hand, which twisted the cable at an angle) would allow, held it in the connector bay with electrical tape, put the fabric cushion back on top of that, and electrical taped across the cushion, between the connector bay and the cable. Phew! After tons of trial and error, put the system back together & both WiFi/Bluetooth and the camera work again!
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Using the flat end of a spudger, pry the subwoofer connector straight up from the connector jack.
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Use your fingernail to flip up the locking flap on the ZIF socket for the keyboard ribbon cable. The locking flap is located at the opposite side of the socket compared to the keyboard ribbon cable. Hook your fingernail under it and carefully lift it up vertically.
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Use the tip of a spudger to slide the keyboard ribbon cable out of its socket.
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Remove the following screws:
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Seven 3.3 mm T6 Torx screws securing the logic board to the upper case.
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Two 8 mm T6 Torx screws securing the DC-In board to the upper case.
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To reassemble your device, follow these instructions in reverse order.
To reassemble your device, follow these instructions in reverse order.