1. 拆除以下十个固定在机壳上的螺丝
    • 拆除以下十个固定在机壳上的螺丝

    • 三个13.5毫米(14.1毫米) Phillips螺丝 。

    • 七个3毫米 Phillips 螺丝。

    Step 1 (technically step 9 - replacing the base plate) Apparently one of my screws was a micron or two smaller than the others. This screw belongs to the hole above the optical drive, which is also apparently a couple of microns smaller than the others. It took seven attempts to figure which screw had originally been in that hole; all the other screws were too large, but fitted perfectly everywhere else.

    Bizarre much?

    Will - 回复

    It might be a matter of how the screws are driven in, and not that they're slightly different sizes. When I reassembled my MacBook, a couple of the screws, including the one over the optical drive you mention, were hard to drive in and jutted up a little bit instead of sitting entirely flush. Swapping screws didn't help. The solution was to unscrew them and drive them in at a bit of an angle - perpendicular to the slightly curved surface of the back plate where the screw holes were, instead of fully vertical with respect to the ground the Macbook is sitting on. Doing it that way, the screws were easier to drive in and they all ended up flush in their holes. Didn't matter which screws they were. (I swapped a few around just to check after reading this.)

    Andrew Janke -

    I had no such screw issues. Either there are differences in manufacturing lots or I just got incredibly lucky during reassembly!

    xtophr -

    I discovered a great way of organizing the screws. I used an ice cube tray and added the screws in order, keeping the different kinds together. So when it came to reversing the steps, the screw order was an added control step to returning everything in its place.

    leonie - 回复

    Great advise! Love it! :)

    Ririds -

    I used to do that and that worked really great until I bumped it by accident and the entire tray went on the rug! I spent the next day sorting things out.

    Now I use these:


    The lower ones 50 to a package. I mark them w/ blue tape. Often if it's part like the fans, or the optical drive I'll tape the screws into/near the holes where they belong. I did this a lot especially w/ the bottom screws from MBPs until I'd done so many I knew exactly where the longer ones went.

    Richard Sato -

    I wrapped the screws in a piece of blue masking tape and wrote the number on the little pouch I made. Then I stuck the blue tape pouches on the underside of the case bottom in order.

    Roscoe -

    I take double-sided tape, put that on a piece of paper, stick the crews to that, and label them.

    jelimoore -

    Best I've found is a bead sorting tray. They're like $5 at Wal-Mart and they have a lid that seals up and won't let them jump between containers.

    maccentric -

    I take a sheet of paper, pierce the screws through the paper, take a pen and box the screws and write out what step they belong to.

    Nils -

    @Will, in my case I had the same result as you did. As a reminder to myself the next time I need to open the computer, I put a dot of white paint on those two screw's head and a very, very thin ring of white on the very edge of each hole, that way I'll know they go into those two holes.

    Roger - 回复

    Actually the four screws on the bottom were not threaded all the way up. I didn't check to see if the thread gauge was the same on them, but it wasn't until I had about four screws out (I didn't take them out in the order that the bottom all came out first) that I noticed a difference. I then took out the rest of the bottom ones to see if they matched the two that were already out that weren't threaded to the top. They did. So I went under the assumption that those were all bottom screws and when I put it back together everything went fine with no resistance.

    So there are three types of screws: Four for the bottom, three long ones as indicated and three others that might be slightly smaller than the bottom ones.

    wresnick - 回复


    Although its more than a year since your contribution, I thought you might be amused to know that it is not just that the screws go in more easily when at an angle, Apple actually drilled and tapped the holes at a 15% angle. I too had tried to drive them in straight. An Apple "genius" - I was in for something else - clarified the design for me. It was done so that the screws lay flush on the angled part of the lower case. Nice design, but since Apple encourages DIY memory and drive changes, they could have mentioned this little ... trap.

    H Stahl -


    Intel Core i7, 2,2 GHz, RAM 16 GB

    Mountain Lion

    May someone help me?

    I have installed the second drive with ssd 840 evo, but when I try to copy the file from the new drive to the main hd this in not allowed (errore -36)

    Piero - 回复

    To my knowledge you can't transfer a single file more than 4gb. I advise compressing to a bunch of rars to split the file size and moving them individually

    1982sketcher -

    Hey everyone, here's the very best way to PERFECTLY organize your screws AND keep track of the order of the procedure: Get a piece of plain corrugated cardboard and a pen (I like using a Sharpie). For EACH step of the disassembly, draw a simple diagram of the layout of the computer on the piece of cardboard, with dots or Xs where the screws are located. Right after you remove each screw from the computer, poke a hole in the cardboard in its corresponding diagram position with your screwdriver and place the screw in that hole. If there are other non-screw related parts to be removed, you can add notes below each step diagram to remind you of where they go or how they should be placed. This cardboard method is great not only because your screws will not go flying or get mixed up by accident if bumped, but each screw goes EXACTLY back where it came from and you can keep the cardboard as a template for future use if necessary!

    - zerø K

    zeroK - 回复

    for all the mac 2011 owner. we should pressure apple to accept their fault. they gave as a piece of junk while they took our $2000. -betrayed apple fanboy

    mindful - 回复

    These instructions worked great for me. I ordered a replacement battery from Key Power (on Amazon) for my 15" Macbook Pro (mid-2010). Cost was $74 shipped.

    Battery came with 3 different screwdrivers to help with installation. I just needed the one size though, since my 2010 seemed to use all the same size screws.


    Marcos - 回复

    During re-assembling (put the screws back in), it is important to note that the 3mm threaded holes are not completely vertical, but bent a little bit such that the hole direction is rectangular to the tapered surface. The force of the screwdriver must point towards the direction of the hole. Otherwise the screw gets jammed

    kusi - 回复

    There is a FOOLPROOF WAY TO ORGANIZE ALL SCREWS and other parts removed.

    Print the repair guide.

    Yes, the actual photo of the bottom of the laptop with the circles around the screws.

    When you remove the screw, tape it to the photograph.

    You will tape the screw to the exact location that you just removed it from.

    Same thing with any part you remove.

    splashzoneent - 回复

    Thanks Splash!!! I used your suggested method, and it was perfect: kept all my screws, and i was able to, very easily, put them back in their correct place. I greatly appreciated your feedback. Thank you for sharing!!

    Tommy Kedar -

    Thank you!!! This worked fabulously - even the I.T. people at my workplace were excited as they never thought to do that before. Replacing the battery took about 10 minutes!

    nclarke36 -

    Worked like a charm! Took less than 20 minutes.

    It's Oct. 2015, and the fan cost me about $10. it was the same brand/model...

    SUNON MG62090V1-Q020-S99 .


    1- no T6 screwdriver- was careful using needle nose players to loosen 2 screws protruding up, then use a small phillips to push real hard into the T6 slots, SLOWLY turn , also used a small flat head screwdriver (for eye glass repair) was able to grab thread on T6's, made a small mark with screw driver across the top so I could see when it started to turn.

    2- no spudger -made one; cut a little strip 1/2" x 1 1/2" of plastic. couldn't get it to slide under plug, there's an edge where plug fits. so lifted old fan out, pulled upward on the plug it popped right out with very little effort. I used my home made spudger to push the new plug into place.

    3- download free "Macs Fan Control" This is how I was alerted to the fan not working in the first place. Program shows temperature of all key components in the computer.

    cheers- Durango CO!

    Dgodrummer - 回复

    Watch the video first, read the entire tutorial and all the comments before you start, and spread a white towel on the floor so you can find screws when you drop them. Watch this first -- http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=qiBxhA29e...

    kevicoll409 - 回复

    The link above is no longer available.

    Kristina Graham -

    Please be aware that you CAN do this replacement with MUCH LESS work. I successfully replaced a trackpad (TP) in this model WITHOUT removing a lot of what is described here. I think i mainly removed the logic board (LB) anchor screws along the TP side and was then able to lever up the LB just enough to get the cable unplugged and snaked out. Followed the reverse and done. Maybe not for all, but it worked for me. // Re screws: i print out the images here of the multi-screws locations and then tape the screws in place on the print-out.

    Danno - 回复

    Is it necessary to ground oneself to prevent static damage to logic board, etc. when replacing the speakers?

    If so, what is the best way to do this?

    Do you wear wrist strap designed for this purpose? To what metal object do you attach the clip and wire? I’m assuming the aluminum case isn’t going to work.

    Sibyl Smith - 回复

    I will be buying a battery from you and using your instructions. I just installed a new CD/DVD using your instructions and 1) I feel like I owe you something and 2) Although more expensive, I have the confidence your battery will work. My current battery is the original with 1399 cycles in 7.2 yrs. A tech buddy had bought me a replacement and I installed it. I had just installed a new OS and the kernel_task went going nuts, using 90% of the CPU. Hours on the phone with Apple did not resolve the issue. On a whim, I put the old battery back in and Voila! But I cannot risk my battery swelling and going south on me. I am also going to buy your installation tools. Yeah, I already have them. But you can never have enough tools…or beer. And you don’t sell beer.

    Pete Banks - 回复

    How did that work out if you don’t mind me asking? I’m a bit nervous and been on the fence for a while. Mine isn’t swollen but it’s dying after an hour which is problematic.

    Shawn -

    The instructions say that I am removing PH00 screws. I found that my MBP, mid ‘12, Retina has pentalobe screws instead!

    jsandersonq - 回复

    This laptop definitely originally shipped with Phillips screws—but, Apple has been known to replace Phillips screws with pentalobes when one of their devices is brought in for service. Sorry for the rude surprise! Fortunately the correct driver is easy to find nowadays. [Blatant self-promotion alert!] If you support free repair manuals, consider picking one up from iFixit. Good luck!

    Jeff Suovanen -

    To keep track of screws, I used the suggestions above by taping a photo of the lower case to a piece of corrugated cardboard and inserting/taping the screws in place. Also, as some have noted, the screws go back in at a slight angle; they are angled toward the center of the unit.

    Kristina Graham - 回复

  2. 使用双手在后壳接近风扇处提起固定后壳的两个卡扣。
    • 使用双手在后壳接近风扇处提起固定后壳的两个卡扣。

    • 将后壳放置在一边。

    After pulling out the lower case and put it back on, the lower case doesn't stick well with the left clip. What should i do now?

    Januar Wiyogo - 回复

    What is the maximum amount of RAM that can be installed in this MacBook?

    michael - 回复

    16 GB is the max

    Bradon Kelley -

    I can’t get the back panel off !! Removed all 10 screws but the panel is still on. Not a quick easy lift like in the picture of videos on youtube what going on…are the hidden screws locking tabs?

    Tachyon - 回复

    Solved the tabs were hard to get off to the point I thought I was going to bend the back case off before it would let go.

    Tachyon - 回复

  3. 对于某些维修(例如硬盘),不需要断开电池连接器,但断开连接器可防止主板上电子设备的意外短路。 如果不断开电池连接器,请小心,因为主板的部件可能会通电造成短路或其他伤害。 使用撬棒的边缘从逻辑板上的插座向上撬开电池连接器。
    • 对于某些维修(例如硬盘),不需要断开电池连接器,但断开连接器可防止主板上电子设备的意外短路。 如果不断开电池连接器,请小心,因为主板的部件可能会通电造成短路或其他伤害。

    • 使用撬棒的边缘从逻辑板上的插座向上撬开电池连接器。

    • 在连接器的两个短边上分别向上撬起插座是十分有效的手段。

    nails work pretty well as well...

    Sibe Jan Kramer - 回复

    At first sight I was confused when I read the description at this step, 'cause it seemed that disconnecting the battery connector was optional, in order to eliminate static discharge. While it's a helpful advice in other circumstances (as mentioned as an example changing hard drives), when changing the battery it is not an option - you have to disconnect the battery connector.

    It would have been better to mention the optional disconnecting recommendation in a side-note.

    Other than that, an excellent guide!

    Damienn - 回复

    the fact that this step is optional can not be stressed enough. i tried disconnecting the battery and in the process it short circuited which now leaves me with an even more expensive problem than i had before when i just wanted to change hard drives (at least the new hard drive works fine..)

    the hard drive changing worked though.

    nina - 回复

    Excellent guide, it was as easy as a breeze to replace my battery. I can't believe I nearly followed Apple in their saying that this part was not user replaceable. Great job for this description, and many thanks. iFixIt is THE reference for Mac owners.


    Patrick Demaret - 回复

    So - I have a weird comment about this. I wanted to make sure that I was getting the right model - so I opened up my laptop and then thought "well, why not just remove the battery while i'm in here, it's shot anyway". Though, I forgot about the stupid screws (Apple really did us over on that one!). Though I disconnected the battery connector and didn't bother to re-connect it when I was finished and just put the cover back on.

    Here's the weird part - when I went to turn my laptop back on...MY BATTERY WAS RECOGNIZED...AND WORKING! I was under the impression that the connector "connects" the battery's charge to the laptop, but this just doesn't make sense! Plus, now my very dead battery is in "normal" condition according to the system report. I haven't worked for apple, but have about 5 years of IT experience and am baffled by this! I'm starting to think i've experience a miracle! Has this happened to anyone else?

    Shelly - 回复

    Possibly disconnecting the battery caused the System Management Controller to reset. That might have been your problem rather than the battery itself. See http://osxdaily.com/2010/03/24/when-and-...

    Duke Briscoe -

    I'd just like an advise of where to dispose the old battery. Thanks

    Jaime Serafim - 回复

    Any Best Buy or Batteries + Bulbs accepts batteries for recycling in their stores. Many other stores such as Home Depot do as well.

    xtophr -

    My battery won't work after reconnecting it, I made sure everything was done as stated, what can I do to fix this?

    r1m111 - 回复

    My battery connector pulled off parallel to the board surface

    Mazo - 回复

    I tried spudging the corner closer to the wires which was probably a bad idea. The corner broke off! I can't believe it was that brittle. So be careful. If it did it again, I'd aim for the corners AWAY from the wires or the sides themselves, though I seem to recall there not being much of a lip.

    Dave Kitabjian - 回复

    I used the spudger to gently ease the battery connector out. I then placed a q-tip between the connector and it’s socket to avoid making an accidental connection. A toothpick or some other soft stick might also work.

    Kristina Graham - 回复

    My battery connector had a shiny metal cover over it like a male USB plug. I had to take the 3 peace symbol screws oit and remove the battery before I could access thr plug properly. My battery plug also came off parallel to the board by walking the black plastic part off the metal part towards the battery. It required quite a bit of force to walk it off the connector. I broke a spudger trying. Something nonconductive but strong like a wittled down bamboo chopstick could work well.

    Pii - 回复

  4. 将电池电缆稍微掰离逻辑板上的插座,以免在进行其他工作时插头与插座意外连接。
    • 将电池电缆稍微掰离逻辑板上的插座,以免在进行其他工作时插头与插座意外连接。

    Move battery removal step to this point in upper case replacement guide.

    Paul Palm - 回复

    My battery connect was like mid 2010 model

    Iain Friend - 回复

    Why not go ahead and remove the battery at this point instead of bending the battery connector back (see steps 23 -25 below)?

    BilMcKelvy - 回复

  5. 卸下将电池固定到上壳上的两个7.4 mm三点螺丝。
    • 卸下将电池固定到上壳上的两个7.4 mm三点螺丝。

    Where can I suggest that iFixit add a cross-referenced note/warning when purchasing a replacement battery (or other parts that require odd tools) that you also need to purchase yet another special-purpose *&$%#(%@ screwdriver, "because Apple"!!

    I had to wait for weeks to find time to complete this repair, and now have to wait weeks longer for another chance.

    Note to self: read the entire guide before purchasing, AND before starting the repair, AND while you're doing the repair...

    seijihuzz01 - 回复

    I preferred to use the Y0 for these screws, the Y1 felt too big for the screws they used with my battery.

    Aschwin de Hoog - 回复

    Are these Tri-wing or Tri-tip? Perhaps there isn't a difference but I've seen references to both.

    Robert Hammett - 回复

    I found that I could not remove the Tri-Wing screws with the guide recommended Y1 bit. It was way too large and instantly started stripping the screw. The Y0 bit fits perfectly. I believe the guide incorrectly recommends the Y1. There is also a 3rd Tri-Wing screw in the top left corner of the batters (same orientation as the guide) located UNDER a small black plastic flap.

    Vincent Glon - 回复

    For Logic board removal, I did not find it necessary to remove the 3 tri-point screws or the battery, the board came out no problem.

    Jokton Strealy - 回复

    I did not need to remove the tri-wing screws or the battery to remove the Logic board on my MBP. The logic board comes right out no problem.

    Jokton Strealy - 回复

  6. 小心的将贴在电池和光驱上的电池警告贴纸撕开。 然后移除另外一颗三点螺丝。
    • 小心的将贴在电池和光驱上的电池警告贴纸撕开。 然后移除另外一颗三点螺丝。

    • 移除最后一颗将电池固定在上壳的 Y0 7.4mm三点螺丝。

    • 切勿将贴纸从电池上完全撕下。

  7. 使用电池顶部的塑料拉手拉出电池。
    • 使用电池顶部的塑料拉手拉出电池。

    • 如果你在安装新电池,你应该在安装完成后进行校准

    • 把电池充满,然后至少继续充电两个小时。之后,像往常一样使用它,消耗电量。当你看到低电量警告时,保存好你的工作,然后让笔记本开着,直到它因为低电量而入睡。再等待至少五个小时,之后再把你的笔记本充满到100%

    • 如果在安装新电池后你发现了一些异常状况或麻烦,你可能需要重置你的Macbook的设备管理器

    ifixit kit i bought linked to from here says to discharge below 10% then charge to 100%, but this says to charge, then discharge, then charge. Guess I’ll follow the instructions here, but would be good to update the notes to say whether to disregard the card that comes with the kit or not.

    Nathan Loyer - 回复

    The instructions here in the guide are the most up-to-date. It takes a little longer to make changes/updates to printed materials. Sorry for any confusion!

    Jeff Suovanen -

  8. 拆下三个3.4毫米(3.1毫米)T6 Torx螺钉固定左扇逻辑板。
    • 拆下三个3.4毫米(3.1毫米)T6 Torx螺钉固定左扇逻辑板。

    Je vais juste vous surprendre car je suis français.

    JI'll just surprise you because I am French .

    I understood the problem of the left fan. In fact the problem is with the design at Apple. The fan housing is too narrow vertically a few tenths of millimeters. This is why so many problems . The left fans deteriorate very quickly.

    The solution is very simple. Buy a new fan in China, it is the cheapest and level it's very fast delivery . Warning it comes fan already used but in good condition.

    The thing to do is to over- raise the fan does not rub and deteriorating. To do so just buy a zinc washer 3 mm diameter available from my local hardware store ( € 3 for 70 pieces ) and place it under the black screw fully right and top right . The over- elevation leads to no longer have friction effect.

    Thats ALL !!!

    olivierbartoli - 回复

    on my screwdriver set, the T6 screw driver felt wobbly. It felt like I would strip the screw if not careful. So I used a T7 screw driver, and it was much more snug.

    Bryan Chun - 回复

  9. 使用一个小撬棒的平端从逻辑板断开左风扇连接器。 这是拧撬棒轴向风扇下电线电缆释放连接器有用。 在第二和第三幅图中可以看到风扇插座和风扇连接器。小心不要打破塑料风扇座从逻辑板当你使用撬棒把风扇接头撬了出来。在第二张图片中显示的逻辑电路板的布局可能看起来比你的机器略有不同,但风扇插座是相同的。
    • 使用一个小撬棒的平端从逻辑板断开左风扇连接器。

    • 这是拧撬棒轴向风扇下电线电缆释放连接器有用。

    • 在第二和第三幅图中可以看到风扇插座和风扇连接器。小心不要打破塑料风扇座从逻辑板当你使用撬棒把风扇接头撬了出来。在第二张图片中显示的逻辑电路板的布局可能看起来比你的机器略有不同,但风扇插座是相同的。

    I successfully removed my right fan, cleaned it and installed it back. But when it came to the left one I accidentally broke the connector from the logic board. Now I'm left with only one functioning fan. I'm using an external laptop fan. Do I have to replace the whole logic board or can it be fixed somehow? My temp is between 90-95 C when I run a heavy game.

    khalid alodan - 回复

    I made the same mistake! Did you solve it?

    Rosario - 回复

    In case anyone else accidentally breaks a fan connector, check the comment on step #14. It is basically the same connection, so that should work here.

    Relevant part of comment - “To replace it, I removed the socket, held it in place against the solder pads and ran a 750degF soldering iron across the pads. It's definitely reattached it, I'm not sure how good the electrical contacts are yet.”

    John - 回复

  10. 将左风扇从上壳体中抬起。
    • 将左风扇从上壳体中抬起。

  11. 使用撬棒扁平的一端从逻辑板上的插座中撬起右风扇的插头。
    • 使用撬棒扁平的一端从逻辑板上的插座中撬起右风扇的插头。

    • 小提示:在风扇线缆下方扭动撬棒来断开插头。

    Of course, this is not the right fan but the left in the picture.

    maccentric - 回复

    Managed to break off a fan connector. Really poor mistake there, as it really is not too hard. Follow exactly like the picture and realize that it lifts up! But good news, I managed to break one of the least important parts and the computer still runs fine!

    Sam - 回复

  12. PC 笔记本电池

    Batteries for all the top PC brands, backed by our Quality Guarantee.


    PC 笔记本电池

    Batteries for all the top PC brands, backed by our Quality Guarantee.

  13. 移除将右侧风扇和逻辑板固定的三颗3.4mm(3.1mm)T6 梅花螺丝。 从逻辑板上的开口提出风扇。
    • 移除将右侧风扇和逻辑板固定的三颗3.4mm(3.1mm)T6 梅花螺丝。

    • 从逻辑板上的开口提出风扇。

  14. 从逻辑板的插座上拉出摄像头线缆。
    • 从逻辑板的插座上拉出摄像头线缆。

    • 断开连接时,请勿向上拉动相机线缆。 这样可能损坏逻辑板和线缆本身。 将电缆从逻辑板平行的方向拉出。

    One can see how to remove the cable in this picture: https://d3nevzfk7ii3be.cloudfront.net/ig...

    Better than pull is to push it with something like a screwdrive at the small angle left and right.

    Alex Nevell - 回复

  15. 使用撬棒扁平的一端来撬开逻辑板插座上的AirPort/蓝牙排线的插头。
    • 使用撬棒扁平的一端来撬开逻辑板插座上的AirPort/蓝牙排线的插头。

    Am I the only one but my MacBook has black shielding on the CD-R drive, not some clear tape stuff to reveal the internals on the drive….

    Vincent Mahler - 回复

  16. 使用撬棒扁平一端来撬起逻辑板插座上的光驱排线的插头。
    • 使用撬棒扁平一端来撬起逻辑板插座上的光驱排线的插头。

    Mine had a little adhesive strip behind the connector. Pull gently

    nicholasmcroberts - 回复

  17. 从逻辑板上的插头下撬起硬盘红外传感器线缆。
    • 从逻辑板上的插头下撬起硬盘红外传感器线缆。

  18. 使用撬棒扁平的一端从逻辑板的插座上撬起低音扬声器/右扬声器线缆的插头。
    • 使用撬棒扁平的一端从逻辑板的插座上撬起低音扬声器/右扬声器线缆的插头。

    • 在线缆下方撬起。

    Be really, really careful detaching this connector - make sure it's lifted from the cable side. I managed to remove the whole lot from the logic board by accident. On mine it was disguised under a lump of rubber foam.

    To replace it, I removed the socket, held it in place against the solder pads and ran a 750degF soldering iron across the pads. It's definitely reattached it, I'm not sure how good the electrical contacts are yet.

    afoster - 回复

    There is foam on the top of this connector. Do not pry up from under that. Instead, put your spudger underneath the red and black wires themselves and pry up. Very little resistance.

    Alex Grayson - 回复

  19. 移除将键盘/触摸板固定到逻辑板上的两颗1.5mm(1.2mm)十字螺丝。 从逻辑板上提起盖子,放置到一边。
    • 移除将键盘/触摸板固定到逻辑板上的两颗1.5mm(1.2mm)十字螺丝。

    • 从逻辑板上提起盖子,放置到一边。

    Be sure to use the right size screwdriwer, as these screws might be hard to remove. I ended up having to cut the metal cover and bend it away as the screws wouldn't come loose.

    That works too however..

    dmitri - 回复

    I ended up using a #000 phillips screwdriver instead of the #00. I was able to get this piece up without issue.

    Dave Bruhn - 回复

    I bought ph#00 screwdriver and it doesn't work for all phillips screws. Just buy #000 phillips screwdrive for all phillips screws.

    ozhan - 回复

    Can I get it work with PH#00?

    Utsav Dusad - 回复

    I was able to skip this step, along with 16, 17, & 18, and complete the repair successfully. Instead of fully removing the logic board as described in step 22, I lifted the left edge and then wiggled it left until I could lift it from the hinge edge; this gave me plenty of room to see what I was doing while removing and replacing the DC-in board.

    Sarah Dunlap - 回复

    @Sarah Dunlap. Yes, I did the same, it entirely possible ( although fiddly ) to complete this repair without fully removing the Logic board and instead lifting it out of the way taking care not to put too much tension on the keyboard ribbon cable.

    bill borez - 回复

    I used the J000 bit (I think this is a JIS bit, not Phillips) for these screws and they seemed like a much better fit. It seems like the screws aren’t actually Phillips (ie. with the curved, cam-out corners) but are squared off.

    Andrew Wharton - 回复

  20. 从逻辑板的插座上撬起触摸板排线连接插头。
    • 从逻辑板的插座上撬起触摸板排线连接插头。

  21. 使用您的指甲来撬动键盘排线上的ZIF插座的滑杆。 确保您撬动的是滑杆,而不是插座本身。
    • 使用您的指甲来撬动键盘排线上的ZIF插座的滑杆。

    • 确保您撬动的是滑杆,而不是插座本身。

    • 使用撬棒的尖端将键盘排线从插座中拉出。

    Need a better picture of the zif connector. You lift the lock from the side farthest from the flat cable, and it lifts toward the cable. When reinserting be sure to get the cable all the way or you may have only half the keyboard working.

    Jim - 回复

    Definitely should have read this comment before I cracked the ZIF socket…

    Joshua Vande Walle -

    I could use some advice on reinserting the ZIF cable firmly in its socket. I can get it started, but getting it far enough in to make contact is difficult, given its flexibility. Any tips on manipulating it?

    CJ Attias - 回复

    I used a piece of sticky tape that I attached to the ZIF cable, then pulled firmly on the tape (attached to the cable) to get the ZIF cable to seat properly. The tape held to the cable, the ZIF cable seated properly, and the keyboard worked.

    robertemcgee -

    getting the cable back in was leaps and bounds more difficult than this entire replacement job! be very very careful and note that it goes alllll the way in. i bent the ribbon like crazy, but the keyboard still seems to work fine!

    shmianco - 回复


    Key points:

    •Make sure that it's inserted evenly. It's tempting to get one edge in, and then the other, but that approach will prevent it from seating properly.

    •The cable goes all the way in. There is maybe 1/16" of the little grooves showing, but not much more.

    •Once the cable is properly seated, use a piece of tape to pull it all the way in, and keep the tension on the tape as you use a sprudger to flip down the retaining flap.

    •It's a fragile connection, and if you break the cable it's a top-case or keyboard replacement, which is either expensive or a PITA, so patience is key.

    Kyle - 回复

    It's very easy to do this step incorrectly. Make sure to use your fingernail and pry gently. This was the only step I felt didn't have a great explanation and damaging the part could easily happen.

    tgphotosales - 回复

    I messed up and broke the connector. Here is part of a video showing in close-up how to remove it properly (different model Mac, same connector). Wish I had seen it before I tried it.


    wizzart - 回复

    Thank you for posting that video link. You saved me a lot of frustration!

    disneyfunteacher -

    Thanks for posting the video. Made it much clearer how to disconnect and save damage!

    Gareth Aschenbrenner -

    When they say "retaining flap", they are referring to a square plastic clip that hinges to the clip on the board. Starts at 7:15 in the video.

    kevicoll409 -

    Thanks a lot! Great video

    Sean Kandel -

    I needed that video. Thanks

    Justin Brisotto -

    Thank you to everyone who commented about this step. I did not have any trouble doing this but I could have. Also for all the excellent clarification especially the tips on reinserting the ribbon cable which I have yet to do after I hopefully fix the logic board

    Peter Newman - 回复

    When they say "pull" the cable, they mean to "slide" it. Do not lift and pull.

    kevicoll409 - 回复

    Attaching a small piece of tape and pulling parallel to motherboard did the trick.

    Brian Blair - 回复

    I had trouble getting the cable out (let alone back in!) In the end, sliding a toothpick in behind the ribbon and gently pulling from both sides of the toothpick did the trick.

    Kal - 回复

    On reassembly, I realise why it was so hard to get out—I had not lifted the retaining flap, thinking they just meant the flap of tape. Not well illustrated in the photo. The retaining flap is the long bit of plastic opposite the ribbon (closer to the fans).

    Kal - 回复

    I acquired a macbook pro with a cut trackpad wire and no battery. In looking at this layout my concern is… what if the connection is pulled from the hinge and the hinge to hold it into place is completely missing?

    Anthony Eliseo - 回复

    The most difficult part was putting it back in. I read the comments and I used a piece of tape to help push it back in. Make sure it’s all the way in or else you wont be able to turn your mac on. About a hairline of the grooves were

    Cristina - 回复

    The comment Kal left about lifting the retaining flap is key during reassembly!

    I, too, totally missed that there is a plastic “bar” covering the end of the pins. Without that lifted up, it’s %#*@ near impossible to push the connector in since the flap/bar is putting pressure downwards.

    With the retaining flap down, it comes out without too much effort. But putting it back in is a whole different story. Be sure to lift it up!

    Justin Blecher - 回复

    For reinserting, just be patient, lining up the ribbon, keeping a good hold on the tab, and applying even pressure along the ribbon, slowly, firmly reinserting. If the power button doesn’t work when you put everything back together, you will know the ribbon needs better connection. I promise you can do it!

    hyde244 - 回复

  22. 使用撬棒扁平的一端来从逻辑板插座中提起电量显示插头。
    • 使用撬棒扁平的一端来从逻辑板插座中提起电量显示插头。

  23. 抓住将显示数据排线锁固定的塑料拉手,并将其旋转到电脑交流电插口方向。 将显示数据电缆直接从逻辑板上的插座拉出
    • 抓住将显示数据排线锁固定的塑料拉手,并将其旋转到电脑交流电插口方向。

    • 将显示数据电缆直接从逻辑板上的插座拉出

    • 不要抬起显示数据线,因为它的插座非常脆弱。 将电缆平行于逻辑板的表面拉出。

    The metallic flap controlled by the plastic handle looks like it could easily break... a safer route is to grab the shielded cable after rotating the metal flap out of socket and gently pry it out of the socket by applying force parallel to the logic board. It will probably take a few minutes but you could save yourself some gray hairs.

    This is the hardest step IMO

    brbulic - 回复

    Indeed this s the hardest step.its not clear from the instruction that there are two elements to this component. The connector and also a metal retaining clip that needs to be rotated off the connector first.

    mail - 回复

    this was the hardest part of the dismantling for me. it's not super obvious in the pictures that there is a hinge and the metal piece, attached with tape, swings over and towards the DC-in.

    shmianco - 回复

    I found it easiest to grab the connector where the hinged metal piece connected to the body.

    Replacing this connector was a bit fiddly, as you have to make sure it's lined up exactly before pushing it in, and because pushing it in requires a bit of force.

    Kyle - 回复

    "Pull the cable straight" means to slide the connector out, do not lift and pull. Also, check for a square locking clip attached to the plug, if it won't come out.

    kevicoll409 - 回复

    I really advise you to remove the cable retainer (one 8.6 phillips, you can see a photo in the display replacement tutorial) BEFORE unplugging the cable, to have more freedom of movement (to plug it in back it's even more important). Those are REALLY flimsy (i just broke one without being brutal and believe me you don't want to change it).

    Bonachera - 回复

    I found it helpful to remove the bracket for the display cable to allow more movement of the cable when attempting to reassemble

    Justin Brisotto - 回复

    Really great site!! replaced a LB in an mid 2010 MBP with kernal panic crash. Fixed! No issues with detailed procedure and comments. So I'll add one for this step. This was the simplest step really. Additional clues. (Wish I could post a pix). Look at the gold conn in the pix above. Note that the cable mates with the conn with the 2 tabs each side showing full insertion. The silver retainer pops up, bar away from the cable. Using my custom tool, a small screw driver, filed really small as I don't have a #000 Phillips, release the retainer, then carefully wedge open the tab on each side, inserting your "tool" in the slot. Neatly and slowly, the conn comes apart. Putting it back together, once the conn is alligned, just push alternately on each tab. Doesn't take much effort, better that pushing on the cable. I also appreciate the comment that removing the clamp, both clamps with one screw actually, makes this easier.

    Bruce Rayner - 回复

    This is indeed a tricky step. First time, after following all the steps and reassembling I had no screen, which freaked me out. Luckily, another go at the connector did the trick and now I’m a happy owner of a macbook with a new trackpad. Thanks!

    Balazs Gobel - 回复

    This step is really unclear! After grabbing what I thought was the “plastic pull tab” and having it come off in my hand, I was clueless about how to proceed. After puzzling over it for about 15 minutes, I saw the actual “plastic pull tab”, which was against the mother board near the fan. Pulling this upward unlocked the metal hinge and everything else was obvious after that.

    xtophr - 回复

    I agree, this step was unclear. Part of the problem may be variations between logic boards. Mine did not look like the one pictured here. Mine has a tab lying flat against the logic board, as also described by xtophr. If this describes yours, check out [|this video] https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=-IE3WNOsrZ... (around 40 seconds in) to see exactly how it comes out. You lift the locking clip up by the plastic tab, then (with a little bit of downward pressure on the cable) slide it out towards the nearest corner of the machine.

    Kal - 回复

    Wow Thansks for the video link. That definetly helped out to understand how this part actually moves. It is pretty easy after this explanation

    Carlos Anriquez -

  24. 使用撬棒的尖端来从ZIF插座中撬起键盘背光排线。 确保您撬动的是滑杆而不是插座本身。
    • 使用撬棒的尖端来从ZIF插座中撬起键盘背光排线。

    • 确保您撬动的是滑杆而不是插座本身。

    • 从插座中拉出背光排线。

    Connector slides out, do not lift and pull.

    kevicoll409 - 回复

    any replacement parts available for this? I pulled up instead of sliding cable :(

    Allen Jenkins - 回复

    This step would benefit from a macro view of hinged retaining flap and clarification. The instruction about flipping up the hinged retaining flap is misleading people into trying to flip out the ribbon.

    Frank Wilson - 回复

  25. 移除下列螺丝
    • 移除下列螺丝

    • 逻辑板上的7颗3.4mm(3.1mm)T6 梅花螺丝。

    • 2颗交流电源板上的8mm T6 梅花螺丝。

    Remove T6 (smaller) screws first, that was the last screwdriver that you used (for smooth workflow).

    kevicoll409 - 回复

    Getting the DC board back in required a non-trivial amount of force to get it into position and lined up with the screw holes. It seemed to want to sit away further from it’s hole in the external case than it had to be to line up. I eventually got it in by leaving the main logic board out of it’s final position (but with the cable connected), which allowed me to get the leverage to push the DC board in so it would line up and be screwed in. Once it was in, I then positioned the main logic board and screwed it in.

    Andrew Wharton - 回复

  26. 小心地从左侧提起逻辑电路板组件,并将其从外壳中移出,清理光盘驱动器电缆和可能在拆卸过程中被卡住的I / O端口。 如有必要,请使用撬棒扁平的一端将麦克风与上壳分开。 将逻辑板的I / O端口侧拉离上盖的一侧,然后卸下逻辑板组合件。
    • 小心地从左侧提起逻辑电路板组件,并将其从外壳中移出,清理光盘驱动器电缆和可能在拆卸过程中被卡住的I / O端口。

    • 如有必要,请使用撬棒扁平的一端将麦克风与上壳分开。

    • 将逻辑板的I / O端口侧拉离上盖的一侧,然后卸下逻辑板组合件。

    I had a little difficulty pulling the motherboard before the battery. I'm not sure why you would want to do it in the order listed here, but doing steps 23 and 24 first helped the board come out easier.

    maccentric - 回复

    The thing that caught me on this step was that, at least on mine, the speaker box was glued/taped to the case, and so I got rather nervous trying to remove the logic board as it wouldn't move until said adhesive was pried apart. Thank goodness I knew the difference between the sounds of "board breaking" and "adhesive separating", but this step was still rather harrowing for me.

    Joseph Sikorski - 回复

    The microphone cable was easy to pry off the logic board for disassembly. For re-assembly, I was having a heck of a time getting the connector to connect to the logic board. There just isn't enough room to get your hands and tools in there and still see what you're doing (unless you're a dentist and you're used to that kind of thing). Anyway, I finally got brave and pulled the round, rubberized microphone from the case. I connected the short cable to the logic board, set the microphone in the made-for-the-microphone housing on the logic board, hoping it would stick itself back to the case once the logic board was in position, and I was back in business. In this case, simply stating "reverse these steps for reassembly" wasn't very forthcoming.

    robk64 - 回复

    Pulling the microphone off the case is key to reassembling. Place the mic back into the cut-away in the speaker housing and plug the connection into the backside of the logic board

    Justin Brisotto -

    thx graciaaaas :)

    driveremule -

    When I did this step the microphone was REALLY STUCK to the upper case, it actually stayed stuck to it and disconnect "itself" from the mother board while I was lifting up everything.

    Finally, there was no damage : I separated the microphone from the upper case while reassembling, then connected it back to the mother board and put it on its housing.

    Greg - 回复

    Count the number of connectors as you remove the board, so that when you put it back one does not get lost under the board and you can't figure out why it won't go in. You should do this.

    kevicoll409 - 回复

    If you laptop was getting hot when charging then be extra careful in this step because the foam pad under the logic board my have started to fuse to the casing. If the pad seems stuck then use a knife to gently pry it up.

    Jereme Shaver - 回复

    I wish I'd read the comment on the items being stuck to the surface below

    Mazo - 回复

    I have the same case with Joseph Sikorski - it's hard to pull out the mother board because the speaker is glued that I thought their are remaining screws that hook in to it. Better use flat spudger to pry the right side that is stuck when you pull the left upward first.

    Auldz Buss - 回复

    Repairing a friend’s laptop… I wonder if the “glue” between the speaker and case is actually juice or soda, lol

    Sarah Ybarra - 回复

    This part was highly stressful. The microphone/left speaker assembly are fused to the underside of the logic board. As you are facing the project according to the layout in these photos, the mike assembly is on the right side of the logic board, towards the top end. It is fused to the logic board but it also has adhesive sticking it to the upper case. As you lift, you have to insert a long spudger flat end down into that corner and move it back and forth between the mike assembly and the upper case, and it will release. Be very patient, focused, and slow. The spare part I bought from iFixIt had an extra speaker there in case I messed up, but I did not need it.

    jruedas - 回复

    Hallelujah! There is a God!…Been sitting here for the past 2 hours, eyeballing the rubber whatever it is ”My New Moto”..When I’m stuck…”READ THE COMMENTS!…Thanks to all of you!!!!

    taleahebey - 回复

    For reinserting the logic board, it helps to have a second person helping hold connection points to the side so you do not accidentally lay the logic board on top. Just go slowly, being mindful of all connections. (best to start by properly seating the DC power unit in the upper right corner)

    hyde244 - 回复

  27. 将逻辑板放在柔软的平坦表面上,散热片朝上。
    • 将逻辑板放在柔软的平坦表面上,散热片朝上。

    • 拆下将散热器固定到逻辑板上的六颗1号十字螺丝。

    • 跟踪每个螺丝下方的小弹簧。

    My MacBook Pro (Mid 2012, 15") comes without the heat sink of the CPU :/

    neodefensio - 回复

  28. 从逻辑板上取下散热片。
    • 从逻辑板上取下散热片。

    • 拆下所有六颗螺丝后,如果散热看起来卡在逻辑板上,则可能借助使用撬棒分离两个部件。

    • 如果您需要将散热安装到逻辑板上,我们有一个导热板可以更换热敏电阻。

    Are 3,5 grams of thermal paste enough for both CPU and GPU? ('m an owner of a MacBook Pro Early 2011, with the AMD Radeon)

    Zamir Hashorva - 回复

    1 gram should be enough for both

    Kabunka Ferreira - 回复

    Strictly speaking, there’s no absolute need to remove the heat sink, unless you need to clean and re-apply some cooling past. The steps concerning the left speaker and the microphone following this step in this guide, can be done without it.

    Mikael Bystrom - 回复

    Should i use a heat gun?

    Eddie - 回复

  29. 如果有必要,将麦克风从左侧扬声器外壳的凹槽中提起。
    • 如果有必要,将麦克风从左侧扬声器外壳的凹槽中提起。

  30. 将固定左侧扬声器的两个5毫米十字螺丝从逻辑板上拧出来。
    • 将固定左侧扬声器的两个5毫米十字螺丝从逻辑板上拧出来。

  31. 如果存在,请取下覆盖左侧扬声器的黑色小带条。
    • 如果存在,请取下覆盖左侧扬声器的黑色小带条。

    • 小心地将左扬声器线向上拉,将左扬声器从逻辑板上的插座中取出。

  32. 小心地将麦克风电线向上拉,将麦克风从逻辑板上的插座中取出。
    • 小心地将麦克风电线向上拉,将麦克风从逻辑板上的插座中取出。

  33. 将DC-In板电线拉向散热器,以将DC-In板与逻辑板上的插座断开。
    • 将DC-In板电线拉向散热器,以将DC-In板与逻辑板上的插座断开。

    • 将电线平行于逻辑板的表面拉出。

  34. 通过同时将每个标签从RAM中打开RAM芯片两侧的插槽。 这些标签将芯片锁定到位,打开它们将导致芯片“弹出”。
    • 通过同时将每个标签从RAM中打开RAM芯片两侧的插槽。

    • 这些标签将芯片锁定到位,打开它们将导致芯片“弹出”。

    • RAM芯片弹出后,将其从插槽中直接拉出。

    • 如果安装了第二个RAM芯片,则重复此过程。

    • 逻辑板仍然在。

    • 如果您需要将散热安装到逻辑板上,我们有一个导热板可以更换热敏电阻。

    I broke one of the clips that secures the memory in the "down" position when replacing the RAM. Is there any way to replace just this part? I tried removing the 4 screws that appear to connect the fastener to the logic board but had not luck removing the piece. Any ideas?

    Doug - 回复

    Don’t forget to turn the logic board over (as pictured) first!

    Kal - 回复






笑得像个300斤的孩子正在帮助我们修复这个世界! 想要作出贡献?
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Thanks a lot for this helpful tutorial. There is precision and the detailed steps are very useful.

fmtkk - 回复

Can the CPU replaced on this Logic Board? Or I have to replace the whole Logic Board?!

Ahmed Moubarak - 回复

Logic board completely

gzasuwa -

cpu is part of board

Allen Jenkins - 回复

Hello. Why don't you remove RAM in the beginning? Thanks

Carlos de Cos - 回复

Yeah, I too find this a bit weird.

Tomas Hallgren -

This is a fantastic guide to getting the board removed! The detail around pry points, connector disengagement, and small part removals are perfect!!! Got this done in less than 20 minutes.

Brian Dobbs - 回复

wow! Did just the removal take you 20 minutes, or the entire replacement (including thermal paste reapplication and everything)?

Nuka Kola -

I couldn't get my MacBookPro to power on after this replacement. It made a sound like it was mounting the HD, but no chime and the screen never came on.

Jeff Miller - 回复

UPDATE- I left it on until the indicator light on the front went out (battery died), then plugged it in and it came back on and booted up. The screen and OS worked properly at once.

Jeff Miller -

You may want to try resetting the SMC next time by pressing Shift + Control + Option + Power Button and holding them for 10 seconds.

More here: https://support.apple.com/en-us/HT201295

Nuka Kola -

I plan to replace the logic board for my early 2011 Macbook Pro using this iFixit guide. I gather, from the photo of the replacement logic board (IF161-078-1) in store, that the small heat sinks (item number: IF161-082-1 PCH heatsink; covering the Intel BD82HM65 Platform Controller Hub and the Intel L051NB32 EFL) are not included. Since it's not currently available in store, I was wondering if I could transfer these small heat sinks from the old board onto the new one by just cleaning/reapplying the thermal paste?

Jithin Radhakrishnan - 回复

I don't know if you got your answer Jithin. Either way, yes you need to transfer the heatsink, microphone and speaker from the old logic board to the new one. Transferring the heat sink is one of the most important steps and please carry it out with caution. The part where you clean of the old thermal paste from the heat sink, and apply new paste to the new logic board core's, dab it and spread it out and attach the heat sink; I suggest you use silicon gloves and extra caution.

Sridhar Nemani -

Hi, Jithin,

I believe the new board does not need those heat sinks. In fact, there are no mounting screws/clips to affix them to the 2012 board (I'm talking about a 15" MacBook Pro here). Please follow the link below and read through the discussion to see other people's (and my own) experiences with this replacement procedure.

Here is the link to my post on that string: MacBook Pro 2011 to 2012 logic board swap?

Nuka Kola - 回复

Nuka, Is the logic board for the A1286 dual core and the A1286 quad core the same?

My 15" MacBook Pro quad core (A1286 on back of case) logic board has gone belly up (according to the Mac store, where I took it to have it repaired only to find out this model is no longer "supported".)

mm gd - 回复


Unfortunately I have no experience with the dual core board. You can find my experience under the link I've provided in reply to Jithin above. I replaced an Early 2011 Core i7 with a Mid 2012 Core i7. Perhaps this could be of help to you: http://www.everymac.com/systems/by_capab...

Nuka Kola -

Hi there.

I have purchased a Logic board from ifixit website but it doesn't work properly and it would like to retune it and being refunded.

Any idea to whom I have to send it this request?

Many thanks

Marco Berardi - 回复

very good tut...

especially detailed tips on screws measures are very useful.

well done!!

Daniele Ribolla - 回复

Dear all,

I need to change my logic board for mabook pro 2011 15 inch. Can I upgrade it to 2013 version or other version? Any benefit from that? How can I check the compatibility?

Mehran Sh - 回复

Extremely well done. My graphics card was completely gone and my computer wouldn’t boot. I followed these instructions and then put my logic board in the oven at 350 degrees F for 7 minutes, let it cool, applied the thermal paste to the heat sync and reassembled. Booted right up like no problem ever existed. I cannot even believe it.

One thing though, you DO NOT need to get those “Y” bits and take out the battery. Just disconnect it and the logic board comes right out no problem.

Nick Goldston - 回复

Nick, disconnecting the battery is precautionary and highly recommended. Even the slightest damage to the battery while working around it can cause a thermal event. It’s best to just get it out of the way altogether.

Robert Dunham -

Perfect guide. I followed this to fix broken AMD GPU (yes, that issue). When completely disassembled and cleaned, I put the board in the oven at 200C for 7 minutes. Applied new thermal paste (the application from the factory was very bad btw), and put everything back together. And voilá! Tha machine was as good as new. Very happy with the result.

Andreas Lantz - 回复

Is it still working? My MacBook quit booting up one day. It was fixed by Apple a few years ago for gpu problem but now again not working. Maybe putting it in the oven wood be worth a shot!

Alberr -



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