Use a spudger to pry the fan connector out of its seat, and straight up off the logic board.
It is useful to twist the spudger axially from beneath the fan cable wires to release the connector.
The fan socket and the fan connector can be seen in the second and third pictures. Be careful not to break the plastic fan socket off the logic board as you use your spudger to lift the fan connector straight up and out of its socket. The layout of the logic board shown in the second picture may look slightly different than your machine but the fan socket is the same.
In this step you will disconnect the camera cable. Most machines will have a small self adhesive plastic retainer stuck to the logic board to keep the connector in place. Before disconnecting the cable, be sure this retainer is moved out of the way.
Pull the camera cable connector toward the optical drive to disconnect it from the logic board.
This socket is metal and easily bent. Be sure to align the connector with its socket on the logic board before mating the two pieces.
Remove the two outer 6 mm Torx screws securing each side of the display bracket to the upper case (4 screws total).
When re-assembling, back out the inner 6 mm Torx screws about a quarter turn and gently align the display and upper case before inserting the outer 6 mm Torx screws. After the display and case are aligned, tighten the inner 6 mm Torx screws, then insert and tighten the outer 6 mm Torx screws.
Be sure to hold the display and upper case together with your left hand. Failure to do so may cause the freed display/upper case to fall, potentially damaging each component.
Remove the last remaining 6 mm Torx screw securing the display to the upper case.
Grab the upper case with your right hand and rotate it slightly toward the top of the display so the upper display bracket clears the edge of the upper case.
Rotate the display slightly away from the upper case.
Lift the display up and away from the upper case, minding any brackets or cables that may get caught.
Carefully dislodge the edge of the trackpad closest to the keyboard from its recess in the upper case by pushing it away from the brackets attached to the upper case.
De-route the trackpad cable through its slot cut into the upper case.
In the following steps, you will be working on your new upper case.
Use a T6 Torx screwdriver to loosely install the 1.1 mm set screw included with your new upper case into its tapped hole near the middle of the trackpad opening on your new upper case.
Carefully insert the cable from your old trackpad through its slot cut into your new upper case.
Use one hand to hold the trackpad cable in place as you insert the two retaining tabs on the outer edge of the trackpad under the lip on the upper case.
Pull the trackpad cable as you seat the trackpad into its void in your new upper case.
While continually trying to click your trackpad, gently tighten the T6 Torx set screw until the clicks return to their factory "feel."
You can tell when the screw is tightened just right by the noise it makes when the trackpad clicks. If the set screw is too loose, the trackpad will have excessive play before it clicks. If it is too tight, the trackpad will click too easily and won't make the characteristic loud mouse clicking noise.
Very good tutorial. Guide was 100% accurate. As mentioned, make sure you have good quality tools, and follow the guide to be certain the right get tool is used for certain screws, I did strip one screw head, in my opinion not bad considering all the tiny screws! But now my MacBook works, and save me having to spend on a new MacBook!