简介
Use this guide to replace the trackpad.
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Remove the following ten screws securing the lower case to the upper case:
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Two 2.3 mm P5 Pentalobe screws
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Eight 3.0 mm P5 Pentalobe screws
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Remove the plastic cover adhered to the battery contact board.
This plastic cover wasn’t included with the new battery so I placed the original one back in. Was it supposed to go back in? This detail wasn’t clear since the original cover didn’t fit exactly over the newer battery connector. Plus any stickiness of adhesive that may have been there was gone.
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Remove the following screws securing the battery connector board to the logic board:
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Two 2.8 mm T6 Torx screws
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One 7.0 mm T6 Torx shouldered screw
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Remove the wide head 6.4 mm T6 Torx screw securing the battery connector to the logic board assembly.
I lost this screw! How important is it? Will it be okay with just the 3 previously removed screws?
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Grasp the Interposer with tweezers.
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Lift the Interposer off the logic board and remove it.
WHy to remove battery contact board? Replace can happen without it also, right.
You don’t want to work on a live system as you could damage parts
Dan -
you must lift it absolutely vertically, or it fouls against the locator pin in the corner- you can easily get the impression that it won’t come over the end of this pin- almost like it’s rivetted in. it isn’t. get a good grip on it with the tweezers in the centre hole & one of the sides, & lift it STRAIGHT up.
What happens if the Battery Contact Board fails?
racoon2956 - 回复
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Use the flat end of a spudger to pry the right side of the I/O board data cable connector up off its socket on the I/O board.
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Wedge the flat end of a spudger beneath the left side of the I/O board data cable connector.
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Gently twist the spudger to disconnect the I/O board data cable connector from its socket on the logic board.
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Use the flat end of a spudger to pry the SSD cable connector up from its socket on the logic board.
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Move the SSD cable connector out of the way.
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Wedge the flat end of a spudger beneath the right speaker cable connector.
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Gently pry the right speaker cable connector up off from its socket on the logic board.
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Remove the following screws securing the right speaker to the upper case:
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One 6.8 mm T5 Torx screw
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Two 6.3 mm T5 Torx screws
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There are two 6.8mm screws, both fit to the side of the Macbook.
On my Early 2013 A1425 EMC2672 the corner screw is covered by foam that needs to be removed with tweezers or the corner of a spudger before the screw can be accessed.
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Use the flat end of a spudger to pry the headphone jack cable connector straight up off its socket on the logic board.
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Remove the following screws securing the left speaker to the upper case:
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One 6.8 mm T5 Torx screw (top right)
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Two 6.3 mm T5 Torx screws
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The 6.3mm screw appears to be on the lower central part of the Macbook that I'm working on.
On my Early 2013 A1425 EMC2672 the screw in the corner is under some metallic foam that needs to be removed before the screw.
Be very careful on this step. If you aren’t you can snap the plastic on the corners where the screws go in. Remember to go slowly when spinning the screws back in, it doesn’t take gorilla torque to tighten them, just take it easy!
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Use your thumb or finger to bend the plastic spring bar on the SSD tray, freeing the two clips at the front side of the device.
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While holding the spring bar depressed, tilt the SSD assembly up out of its cavity.
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Remove three 2.2 mm T5 Torx screws from each side of the battery (six screws total).
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To protect your display, place a sheet of aluminum foil between the display and keyboard and leave it there while you work.
Steps 24-34 are UNNECESSARY for this repair! Removing the adhesive portion of the battery is not required to remove the trackpad. Just lift up the top part of the battery that is screwed in and unplug the trackpad cable.
bizwfshane - 回复
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Insert the flat edge of a spudger or plastic card underneath the leftmost battery cell.
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Run your tool along the bottom perimeter of the battery cell and lift to begin separating the adhesive.
This is the most difficult step. The tip of my spudger got bended and the aluminum case damaged it.
I also broke a spudger trying to do this. Eventually I figured out it is easier to go in diagonally from the corner, just to one side of the screw hole, and lever until you hear the adhesive pad tear and give way.
we use a hair dryer and gently blow hot air in between the battery for a good minute before trying to lift it with a spunger. It worked wonderfully! When lifting, just give it constant force upward and you'll hear the battery slowly breaking away from the macbook, and we don't even see glue residues on our macbook at all. Just be patient. :)
Just a note to say that the above comments were written before the liquid adhesive remover was added to the guide—you should definitely NOT be breaking any spudgers using the current procedure, which requires very little force. I recommend using plastic cards rather than spudgers—it's pretty easy to slide them under each battery cell and separate the adhesive once the solvent has done its work.
This is much easier to do using a plastic card. Just slide the card under the side of the battery and rock it back and forth. The battery will separate pretty quickly with minimal residue.
by a plastic card, do you mean a credit card type thing? thanks in advance.
Exactly—one of these or an old credit card should work fine.
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Repeat the above steps to separate the adjacent battery cell from its adhesive:
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Apply a few drops of liquid adhesive remover under the battery cell.
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Wait 2-3 minutes for the adhesive remover to penetrate and soften the adhesive.
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Carefully wedge a spudger or plastic card inwards, being careful to not damage the battery, and separate the battery cell from the adhesive securing it to your MacBook Pro.
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Switch sides and repeat the above procedure for the two battery cells on the right-hand side of the MacBook Pro.
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Remember to add a small amount of liquid adhesive remover under each battery cell, and wait 2-3 minutes for it to penetrate before prying up the cell.
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Puncturing the battery’s protective covering can lead to release of caustic fumes or fire.
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Lift the battery as a whole up out of the upper case, and remove the battery.
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Calibrate your new battery before using it: allow it to drain overnight, then charge it to 100% and drain it again until your MacBook Pro shuts down automatically. Charge it again and use it normally.
During battery replacement take care to position the two left and right battery packs inwards and upwards towards the macbook center such, that there is sufficient space for reinstallation of the two speakers!
If you're replacing the top case that includes a new battery, can't you skip removal of the battery?
Yes!! If uppercase Assembly(Includes Trackpad, keyboard, Palmrest & BATTERY) is being replaced, there is no need to remove battery from old uppercase assembly.
lamajr -
Wie setze ich die Zyklen wieder auf 0 wenn ich einen neuen Akku verbaut habe?
@Albert: you don’t need to reset the cycles as it is done automatically.
When you are at this step and before you put the new battery in, take the time to clean your computer really well. You will be surprised how much dust/dirt and even pet hairs have gotten into your computer. After I removed the battery, I use a little more of the acetone to clean the bays up and after it dried, I used a tiny bit of Isopropyl Alcohol to make sure there was a good clean area for the new bonding. Make sure you clean the fans. Don’t use a toothbrush or anything like that. If your have a Lowes or Home Depot, you can buy a shop vac attachment kit for about $20, it’s well worth it. Don’t use that air in a can crap, it will put moisture on circuits. Take your time, it’s not a hard task to do everything, just use a little patience.
thanks to everyone for the helpful comments along with this really good tick list of things to do. The main thing I have learned is, I don’t have the patience to do this so I am taking my macbook pro (early 2013) 90 odd miles to my nearest Apple store with a Genuis bar. They can sort it for me. They might charge a lot to do it, but at least it will be them risking messing the process up not me! Thanks again.
Really well done on this. I followed it to a T. Perfect. Thank you for all your work on this.
Excellently communicated.
I wouldn’t have thought to drain my old battery! (Which means I cannot begin my ‘new battery install’ until later today.
Hi all,
After installing the new batteries, my mac is not powering up… Do i need to charge the battery first and then check again? Have anyone faced similar issue before?
My 1st battery from ifixit came out to be defective and it caused fire at the centre of the long battery. I have got a replacement for the defective piece which i have installed now. However, now i am worried that connecting to power could lead to any potential fire / harm to my mac???
Already i have spent lot of time in this and it would be very upsetting if this battery spoils my mac!!!
Any suggestion people???? thanks in advance!
BR,
Vijay
Hi Vijay!
Uh-oh, we’re sorry to hear about the battery trouble!
Our batteries come with a 1-year warranty, so this would definitely be something we can assist with. Please feel welcome to reach out via help.ifixit.com and provide our Support team with your order number so that they can look into these battery troubles with you.
Thanks!
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Use the flat end of a spudger to flip up the retaining flap on the trackpad ribbon cable ZIF socket.
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To reassemble your device, follow these instructions in reverse order.
To reassemble your device, follow these instructions in reverse order.
6等其他人完成本指南。
9条评论
Hi!
I have a Macbook Pro Retina 15-Inch Early 2013. Is it a similar procedure for this laptop with a larger screen (15" versus yours 13")?
We've got guides for the 15" Early 2013, unfortunately, removing the battery in the 15" is significantly harder, you can follow the upper case guide to get most of the way and either replace the whole upper case (and get a new battery included), or use this guide to try to get the rest of the way. Best of luck!
I just wanted to say this worked for me, thank you for the walkthrough! My trackpad just suddenly died one day out of the blue. I thought it might be a lose cable, but ordered a replacement just in case. No loose cables, simple swap out did the trick. This walkthrough is very good. Only thing I'd warn the feint of heart is the removal of the batteries can be intense because they are glued in. You really need the right tool to work it free. I think the battery removal took at least 20 minutes alone!
Anyone, thanks again for your help!
Excellent write up. Three suggestions which i uncovered when i followed this procedure:
Step 5 - The silver shouldered screw was a T6 Torx, not a T7. On this basis, I didn't need a T7 Torx screwdriver for this procedure.
Step 15 & 19 - To remove the corner screws (the heads of which aren't immediately visible), you need to carefully remove the covering mesh with tweezers
Step 44 - Reposition of trackpad. I found that when putting the trackpad back in place during reassembly, it was tricky to get it in exactly the right position (perfectly centralised). I found that taking four small pieces of paper and folding them in half helped. I wedged a piece of folded paper in between the four sides of the trackpad and then tightened the screws. Once the screws are tightened, you can simply remove the paper.
Hi I purchased the new trackpad from Ifixit for my early 2013 MBP retina. The included cable is almost 1/2 inch shorter than the original. Did they ship me the wrong part (even though the part number matches what they are selling?)???
Hi Ryan! Sorry to hear about the trouble! Our Support team is here to assist. If you’re still worried about this trackpad working for you, please reach out to them via help.ifixit.com so that they can look into this with you.
