简介
使用本指南来移除MacBook Pro 的粘合电池。 推荐使用iFixit 更换套件。 您的套件中的液体粘合剂去除剂将溶解固定电池的粘合剂,从而轻松拆卸电池。 或者,您可以使用iOpener,以便在撬出电池之前软化粘合剂。
“iFixit胶粘剂去除剂是极度易燃的。”在通风良好的地方进行。 在此过程中,请不要吸烟或者在明火附近工作。
'''“为了安全起见,在开始执行此程序之前请先用尽MacBook Pro的电池。” 如果意外穿刺充电的锂离子电池可能会造成危险且无法控制的火灾。如果你的电池膨胀鼓包了,请采取额外措施。
注意':用于溶解电池胶粘剂的溶剂可能会损坏某些塑料部件,如MacBook Pro的塑料扬声器外壳。 使用溶剂时要小心。
如果你在使用注射器和瓶子分装的旧款iFixit胶水去除剂,click here for a slightly modified set of instructions.
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拆下以下10个固定在上壳体上的螺丝
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两个 2.3毫米 的梅花五角螺丝
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八个 3.0毫米 的梅花五角螺丝
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把你的手指放在上下壳体中间
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轻轻地把上下壳体拉开
Agreed. A decent amount of force is required here.
To reattach bottom case I found it helpful to line fingers up with clips under case should snap easily
Easy snapped off for me
Popped off of the bottom case for me. My batteries were dangerously inflated
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What is the black vinyl-y sticker on the inside of the case (some sort of shield?). I was forced to slightly puncture it in order to replace the feet on my laptop. Thanks in advance.
When I got the back off, I found this piece loose, any idea what it is? about 9mm long frosted plastic
I took my pointer and thumb (which are luckily long enough) to feel where the studs are on the back panel, and then as I put the back panel back on, I pushed in the spot I had marked with my fingers to ensure I was applying pressure only on this part.
Can you make a youtube video showing the steps? I am not sure how to proceed with this step. I want to see it done.
Thanks.
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My new battery kit included a replacement for this part, so, no need to save the old one.
The aux in my mac works 1 out of 10 times , Is this relevant to me in order to solve the proplem ? I cant see aux input on the io board ?
A plastic foam cover also covers plug and socket and the whole battery. It is easy to remove it from the right side to the trackpad wire that the battery plug is free like shown in the picture. I kept it to use it again later.
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用撬棒的平端,将电池连接器从主板插座上直着往上撬起。
I have a friends MacBook Pro that has some water damage that caused the MacBook not to be able to use battery power, but still work when plugged into A/C. Upon further inspection I can see visible corrosion on a few of the 9 cables going from the battery connector to that small circuit board. Is it possible to just replace that circuit board?
I have the some problem. I was thinking to replace the whole battery but I am not it will solve the problem. Any suggestions?
Sometimes it can be enough to just clean the contacts without having to replace the entire board. Dosent work for complicated IC's like plcc type, where corrosion is underneath the chip. Here you will have to reheat and reapply the IC.
Hi,have you find the solution for your battery? I also have same problem, run with plugs but it battery not supporting… as soon the plug of it goes off
Have either of you replaced the battery and/or circuit board to fix the MacBooks with the water damage ? I have the same problem with the MacBook working fine when connected to power but dying immediately when the power cord is removed.
Hi, Steve. I had the same problem: Macbook Pro 15 retina with coffee damage. And it worked fine when connected to power. I made it working after replacing the whole battery. It seems that circuit connected to the battery becomes disabled to prevent short circuit.
When placing the battery connector back into the socket on the logic board, check that every part of connector is pressed down. You should hear a soft click when it's back in place.
Thanks for the comment. My MBP isn’t powering on after I walked through these steps, and I assume it is because the battery connector isn’t fully connected. (I can’t check yet since I borrowed the pentalobe screwdriver)
+1
I thought I made sure it was connected but when running the computer it only detected the battery but couldn’t power it. I had to run with power adapter. Also it didn’t charge. I guess some pins were connected but not all. To verify that all were connected I removed the plastic cover, placed it carefully completely flat, and then reattached the plastic cover. After that it worked!
If I only want to replace the trackpad cable, then which steps should I skip? This step seems unnecessary
This step is not unnecessary because you need to remove the battery before you can replace the trackpad
I replaced both my L and R speakers on my MBP mid-2014 13” withOUT doing this step.
I did the same thing, probably unnecessary to disconnect the battery. I’m not a technician however.
ooops nevermind..I see it now! tks . But..there is SO much gunk/dust under there (old, hand me down, used by my teen daughter while eating in bed no doubt!) . Should I attempt to clean? Beyond just blowing on it? Is compressed air safe? Or should I just leave it be? Assuming I don’t break it while replacing this battery I’d like not to break it otherwise! tks
Lift from the long, flat side, not the shorter side. In this picture, you should lift from the NORTH part of the connector, not the WEST side like they are doing. This is because you can spread the pressure from lifting the connector across more area, as compared to the side. I accidentally broke off part of my battery connector lifting it up the way shown, but was able to do it the way I described without problem. Make sure to lift from the wide part so you don’t have my same trouble!
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If you miss or let this step for later like I did, the power left in the battery even though the computer is completely shut down, will screw up the I/O board cable like I did. I noticed this after I put all the pieces back, turn the computer on and surprise, no wifi hardware is detected. -.-
Not sure I understand: did leaving the battery plugged in permanently broke the I/O board (or anything else)?
Adrien -
That’s a great idea!
I replaced both my L and R speakers on my MBP mid-2014 13” withOUT doing this step.
I agree that inserting a small paper above between the socket and the connector was useful. I used post-it-note, but kept the adhesive away from the socket.
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移除将I/O板线缆末端与逻辑板相固定的 两颗2.1 mm T5 Torx 螺丝。
At this point it's a good idea to take sheet of printer paper, like A4, and press each screw into the paper roughly in the position it was removed from. When it comes time to reassemble it, you wont get the different lengths mixed up.
After this step I continued from step 13, the steps in between were not really necessary in my opinion ( I succeeded the replacement without them). Just be careful not to touch these connectors during replacement.
While it may not be necessary to remove the left and right speakers, doing so will make it much easier to get at (and under) the end batteries and their adhesive pads. Also, by removing the speakers, you also get them out of harm’s way while you wrestle with loosening the batteries’ adhesives.
I recommend removing the speakers and their connectors as described in the iFixit instructions.
I did this step when replacing both my L and R speakers on my MBP mid-2014 13” so it would be easier to access the speaker connector
I agree that moving the speakers out of the way makes battery removal easier but I didn’t disconnect the right speaker, just removed the screws and folded it back out of the way. I disconnected and removed the left speaker as instructed below.
Jim Turney - 回复
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将I/O板线缆提起,将其弯折到一边。
I removed I/O Board cable completely on both ends using a flat end plastic spudger tool. I did not feel comfortable “bending” it as shown in Pic. Be careful to not damage sockets on either end when removing battery. Extra care to not get any adhesive debris in exposed sockets. I have used the solvent with syringe and that can get rather messy and risk getting liquid onto keyboard/screen/motherboard components etc/. This time I used a plastic “Disposable Putty Knife” from Ace hardware. Speakers where easily removed in subsequent steps. Started pushing in from edges with plastic putty knife and battery cells separated surprisingly easy. This method is clean & much easier than the dental floss struggle!! I used Googone with QTips to remove adhesive remnants.
What is the strip sticking out from behind the battery at the top right middle?? How do I reconnect that?? I think that's why my battery isn't working. I was going to get to the Trac pad until I realized how big a job it is. Just want to fix this connection and put it back the way it was :(
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小心在右侧扬声器连接线缆下放置撬棒的尖端,来将其从逻辑板上的插座中撬起。
Same as my comment on Step 7: This step was not necessary for me to remove the battery. Perhaps it's a safety precaution? Regardless, I skipped the speaker cable removal (Steps 11, 12) and didn't have any problems replacing the battery. Same as my comment on Step 11: This step was not necessary for me to remove the battery. Perhaps it's a safety precaution? Regardless, I skipped the speaker cable removal (Steps 11, 12) and didn't have any problems replacing the battery. ( FYI - I used a heat path method, vs the solvent)
WARNING TO ANYONE WHO DOES THIS STEP! Be very careful to distinguish the cable end from the socket! I just managed to break the entire socket off of the logic board. I may try to solder it back on, but I may not, since it’s only for the speaker… Very disappointing anyway. The instructions should make it more clear just how delicate the socket itself is, especially right where the photo shows you inserting the spudger under the cable end to start dislodging it. It’s really hard to distinguish the cable end from the socket on this side!
I used the flat end of the spudger and tried to match the width of the connector, while applying gentle upward pressure to pop it off.
The key to accomplishing this step easily and without danger to the socket… is to follow the instruction (and the picture) PRECISELY by placing the spudger flat end under the CABLE (not the connector). Lifting the CABLE easily removes the connector from the socket without getting anywhere near the socket.
Seconding barak’s comment, no need to disconnect the speaker cables, keep them attached and just swing the brackets out of the way.
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移除将右扬声器与顶壳固定的螺丝。
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一颗 5.7 mm T5 Torx 螺丝
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一颗6.5 mm T5 Torx螺丝
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一颗3.8 mm T5 Torx 螺丝
Important to keep track here of which screw is which, for reassembly. The longest screw belongs in the middle socket. The shortest goes in the socket at the bottom of the picture.
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将撬棒头部插入连接器附近的左扬声器的线缆下,轻轻撬起,使其从主板上脱离。
Same as my comment on Step 11: This step was not necessary for me to remove the battery. Perhaps it's a safety precaution? Regardless, I skipped the speaker cable removal (Steps 11, 12) and didn't have any problems replacing the battery. ( FYI - I used a heat path method, vs the solvent).
Yes, no need to unplug the speakers cable. I used the solent, just put speakers on the motherboard.
I picked up my steps back here when replacing both my L and R speakers on my MBP mid-2014 13”. I used the flat part of the spudger and gently, carefully applied a fulcrum upward pressure to the base of the speaker connector to help pop it off.
I, too, found it unnecessary to unplug this speaker. It was easy, and not stressful to the speaker cable, to fold the speaker upwards and rest it on the motherboard.
When removing the left speaker as shown in the image in the photo, the left-most fixing part (protrusion) is broken. Will there be any problems using it?
JangJaeHee - 回复
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将固定左扬声器的几颗螺丝拆下:
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一颗 5.7 mm T5 Torx螺丝
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一颗 6.5 mm T5 Torx螺丝
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一颗 3.8 mm T5 Torx螺丝
Same note as above: Important to keep track here of which screw is which, for reassembly. The longest screw belongs in the middle socket. The shortest goes in the socket at the bottom of the picture.
Where can I get these 3 sizes of t5 torx screw drivers?
Greg, the T5 Torx screw driver is one size. The different sizes listed above are the *lengths* of the screws, not the diameter of the screw head. Hope that helps.
My Torx screws are so locked i can not take it out. The Torx 5 screw driver slips. What can i do? Can i also get new screws later to put in?
Hi,
If the T5 slips you may have not the correct size ? I have done may speaker, no screw was ever that tight. All 3 screws the same problem ?
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向上提起左扬声器,绕着电池取出,以便将其从上盖中取出。
If I have a case assembly with battery and trackpad, the above instructions say to skip steps 18 - 44. So, how do the battery and trackpad disconnect otherwise since I need everything else to reassemble. Am I missing something?
after step 9 what??? i cannot see the next steps….
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拆下用于固定电池的上部五个3.7 mm T5 Torx螺丝。
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有些型号的macbook pro并没有螺丝,是一种塑料的圆球,不过没关系,在下面基本我们会把黑色框架一起拿下来与电池一起扔掉,拧下来一个螺丝就好了
In my macbook pro retina, these are some kind of plastic screws. I cannot remove them.
Question - when putting the new battery back into the case, do we need to remove old glue/add new glue, use no glue at all, or place the battery in and then reheat to melt the old glue so that it will adhere to the new battery? Thanks!
What is the part number for this battery, or where can I find it?
I wish to ask the same question.
vbivanov -
My adhesive didn't have enough tack to hold the battery in. I just reassembled without it and can't hear the batteries moving, but I have the rubber grommets and not screws as MarkB mentioned. Fo future repairers, I'd recommend buying some nonpermanent two sided tape just so you have the option to fasten it in.
I wish they would find another way of securing the battery, this is ridiculous.
On each 'corner' of the frame that surrounds the two centre batteries, rather than 'plastic screws' mentioned by adriendavernas there are 'domed' rubber grommets. These presumably rest against the inside of the bottom cover when it is fitted thus supporting the batteries. As there were no screws underneath in these 4 positions, there is no need to remove these grommets. Agree with alex re: removing the extra T5 screw on the power board.
After destroying the adhesive which secures the batteries (bad technique or lack of patience in my effort) what is recommended to secure the batteries when reassembling?
The iFixit Battery had adhesive pre-applied. plenty of 3M Tissue Tape
My replacement A1582 battery actually had holes for the screws, though my original A1582 battery only had the 'domed' rubber grommets. Anyways, putting in the OEM A1582 battery without anything in the holes worked ok.
I wanted to put the rubber grommets on the new battery, so I used tweezers to get them back through the holes on the new battery
My battery replacement came with 4 rubber grommets pre-installed, so perhaps this is no longer necessary
3,7 mm is the lengh I gues. How thick are they?
Wanna know how I can search for replacement screws cause I lost the originales.
My model (late 2013 MacBook Pro Retina), did not have any screws in these locations. They were rubber “feet” in the same locations. They are not attached in any way to the computer. They simply lift up with the plastic battery frame. My replacement batter kit came with the plastic frame - and these rubber “feet” - already installed. No need to save the old ones.
I echo the others who found that there was only one screw (on the upper right). The remainder were rubber-like “feet”. I removed them, but they don’t seem to fasten anything, so this wasn’t necessary. As Ralph pointed out, the ifixit replacement battery comes with new “feet” installed.
some models have one screw on the upper right corner of the battery cells (battery circuit board), the rest are rubber feet that doesn’t hold anything. no need to replace them if your replacement battery doesn’t come with them.
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为了保护你的屏幕,请操作时在屏幕和键盘间放置一张铝箔。
I didn’t use adhesive remover or heat to remove my battery. An old credit card wiggled around under the battery with a little force, but nothing more than anyone can do, was enough to cut thru the adhesive of each section in about 1 or 2 minutes of wiggling under each section. It’s easier to start at the corner of each battery section where the adhesive comes to a point since it follows the edge of the original battery.
Jim Turney - 回复
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拔出粘合剂清除剂的黑色橡胶塞。
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用剪刀剪出一个开口
@aadeshina - That’s an excellent suggestion. I took your advice, and tried it with a can of MG Chemicals “403C Super Cold Spray”, which I had on hand for other electronics work. It worked very well — it froze the adhesive to the point where it was quite easy to work the plastic iFixit cards under the batteries, and pry them loose.
I like this freeze technique much better than the volatile, flammable, risky solvent approach for removing the batteries. I did however find the solvent useful for softening and removing the residual adhesive remaining in the case after the old batteries were removed.
There are many brands of aerosol freeze sprays available on Amazon, DigiKey, Mouser, etc.
As above, Another solution to remove the batteries, (Maybe not environmentally friendly): I removed the Logic board and related components to protect them and took a can of compressed air (the kind you buy at office stores for cleaning printers and such) Invert it and use the included straw to direct the propellant (which is extremely cold under the batteries. The adhesive holding the batteries in becomes brittle and u can just pop them out with medium force using a wide putty knife. Took me 3 min to do.
Before proceeding with the solvent, I suggest considering using dental floss to slice through the old adhesive. (See next step 22 below for more details.) Because the solvent is so dangerous (flammable and caustic), I felt the “dry” use of floss would be better. I assumed that I could revert to the solvent if necessary after trying the floss.
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在最右边的电池单元的边缘均匀涂抹数滴去除剂。
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等2-3分钟过后,胶水去除剂渗入到电池单元下方,再进行下一步骤。
I managed to remove the battery without the adhesive by using the thread technique. More info in this video: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=fupkPz55... . Just make sure you have someone to help you and hold the laptop in place for you.
Thank you very much! This is an absolute win technique
I agree that this worked much better. A few suggestions for others:
- one type of thread that works very well is fishing line. While you can use monofilament (the clear plastic), if you can get the braided fishing line you will find it is extremely thin and super strong and works very well for this
- string pulled tightly can cut more than just the adhesive, so be careful what you allow the string to rub against while you are pulling it. I can easily cut into another cable or the battery
- I found that gloves (not latex, big gardening or construction gloves) helped me use string without needing to go “ow” every few seconds from your hand hurting. I have some gloves with nice grip and good hand protection, I would get the string positioned, put on the gloves, and start pulling. It worked fantastically
I was able to remove the battery easily with the string method, and i did not remove the speakers to do so. However, when I went to seat the new battery I chose to remove the speakers to make it easier to place
Thanks for the awesome suggestion!
Tony Le -
For easier removal I used a combination of heat from a hot water bottle and solvent.
ip_leyland - 回复
I used waxed dental floss (not sure whether the ‘waxed’ is important), which worked like a charm. I cuts through the tape much easier than seen in the linked YouTube video linked above. Each battery cell was loosened within 5-10 seconds. It worked amazingly well, and taking out the old batteries proved to be no challenge at all.
+1 for dental floss - used it too and managed to cut without any effort.
JX Low -
Just finished a fix using floss to remove the battery. It works really well.
Because I preferred to avoid using the flammable adhesive remover, I tried using the dental floss method. I assumed I could always revert to adhesive remover if the floss didn’t work. The dental floss method worked beautifully. I used a slow, methodical “sawing” motion with the floss, rather than brute force. Although it took some strength, it worked well, and I didn’t need to use the remover.
Rather than using the plastic cards (though I think they would have worked fine), I used a plastic putty knife (standard, available in any hardware or paint store); this gave me a sturdy handle with which to grip and maneuver the blade. This, too, worked well.
I used the threading technique as well. I had a spool of pretty tough sewing thread. But it kept breaking, so I tripled it up. Still kept breaking but eventually got through it.
For the 2 middle cells I had to thread the thread behind the plastic frame thing and both cells, but passed the thread in between the side of the frame and the cell. This was really tough and I broke the thread a few times.
After I was finished I just cleaned everything up with acetone (aka. the adhesive remove/nail polish).
This is the hardest part of the whole process, if you don’t have any of ifixit tools you can use a hair dryer. Apply heat on the cell (make sur you don’t apply too much heat), flip the laptop apply heat for 20 to 30s on the aluminum side just near the trackpad( depending on which cell you wanna pry open) and use a credit cart gently. this will do.
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使用热的iOpener来覆盖最右边两个电池的一半。
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大约一分钟后,重新加热iOpener并使其覆盖最右侧电池的另一半。
I did not have an iOpener. I did not fancy using a heat gun on the batteries either so I used two flat metal spudgers to prise them off the body of the mac book. I hit the spudgers with a small hammer.
I popped the freaking iopener in the microwave following this instruction. Said to heat for 30 secs put on for a minute then reheat after that minute. Then read on the iopener that I shouldn't heat more the once unless after two minutes. Just wonderful.
I used a sock filled with rice and it worked exactly the same. Microwaved it for 2 minutes (hot enough to barely hold) and set it on the batteries as above for 2 minutes.
Then I reheated it for a minute and opened up the laptop, and slide my DYI iOpener under so it was directly under the batteries (across the trackpad portion of the laptop). This worked great because the heat went straight thru the aluminum and softened the adhesive. I ended up letting the screen hang over the edge of the table while I pried the batteries out.
This heating with the iOpener took me forever. I tried my fair share of heating followed by nudging slowly with a credit card 1 mm at a time. Finally pried it off after 30 mins.
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在最右侧的电池和上盖之间插进一张塑料卡,将两者之间的粘合剂一分为二。
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当使用热的iOpener时,如果阻碍感明显,请停止并使用iOpener重新加热有障碍感的部分。
In addition to using the wheat bag/iOpener to loosen the batteries, I found it useful each time I inserted the plastic card under the batteries to give the card a 'wipe' with isopropyl alcohol to ensure that it didn't stick to the adhesive holding the batteries down. it also presumably eases the glue away from the batteries somewhat.
Excessive heat can be dangerous, but the iOpener is designed to never get hot enough to cause permanent damage. Using a heat gun or hot plate could be dangerous, but the iOpener method is the safest one we know of =)
I found it helpful to use some dental floss to help loosen each cell and then pry the rest off with the card
Is there a substitute for the plastic cards? have all the other supplies I need. Would like to avoid ordering the whole kit for those cards?
A couple old credit cards should work fine.
My successful alternative to the plastic cards was to use a plastic putty knife, an inexpensive purchase from any pint or hardware store. This tool gave me a strong, grippable handle with which to carefully “work” the plastic blade under the battery cells.
I have found that different techniques are needed for different parts of the job. The outermost two batteries on both sides can be removed by softening the adhesive as shown with the fluid. The batteries are in a shallow dish so there is less chance of the fluid running everywhere. Just apply sparingly. As Christopher Girke suggested, the middle two are best removed by applying the solvent to the edge of the card. Multiple applications are necessary but this avoids the fluid getting where it should not go. Also it is easier to push in from the sides, not the front as shown in the photo to avoid a lip on the underside of the trackpad.
johnponter - 回复
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为了分离固定最后两个中间电池的粘合剂,将另外少许液体粘合剂去除剂(或你的iOpener)应用于每个电池。
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这可能会将MacBook Pro的一面抬高,以使粘合剂去除剂在电池下面以正确的方向流动。 在工作时,您可以使用书或泡沫块来支起MacBook Pro的一面。
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将卡片插入电池和上壳之间约一英寸(2.5厘米),将电池和外壳之间的粘合剂分开。
My laptop had a strip over these center batteries. I had to remove that before getting the center batteries off.
My plastic cards were hitting a black trackpad backing. I thought this was the adhesive not coming off. I also didn’t want to harm the battery and didn’t bring the card up enough.
I found out by going through one of the side batteries, but could have just raised the tip of the card very slightly.
I recommend you do not use the liquid adhesive remover for the middle battery pods. These do not rest nicely in their own “tray” like the two parts on the left and right. Consequently, it is very easy to apply too much liquid, allowing the excess to run into your trackpad and logic board. Even though the liquid dries quickly, it does leave behind a little residue. The result from my experience was a slightly faulty connection for my screen, causing random pixel flickers in dark spaces on my screen. Use the floss method found elsewhere online. It is much more difficult to get out but does not risk damaging your computer.
To remove the center batteries carefully, you can add some of the liquid on the tip of the remover card. Put the card at the adhesive and simply wait. It works fine and you wont use too much liquid!
I bent the silver plate between the trackpad and the middle battery cells while removing the middle cells, resulting in a sunken trackpad when looking from top. Clicking the trackpad also does not work anymore.
Be careful here when you slide any tool under the central cells to pry them open, you could slide it under a sliver plate covering the trackpad electronics, maker sure that your tool is really sliding between the cells and this silver plate, I almost torn this apart, luckily id did not damage the trackpad, dome people reported that it did really damage the trackpad.
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在两个中心上撬起以分离最后一点粘合剂并将电池从设备中提起。
I found that gentle application from a heat gun works well enough to soften the adhesive. Use a plastic card to help as you go. Use caution not to over heat anything.
Just like the recommended adhesive remover method, the dental floss method also left some strips of dry adhesive inside the laptop. I used the flat spudger to peel it off. Have patience; it will peel.
I used GooGone adhesive remover (non-flammable, non-toxic) to loosen remaining adhesive. It worked well, applied with a paper towel. It took several applications to thoroughly clean the computer case. Allow it to dry thoroughly before adhering the replacement battery.
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移除电池
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有点运气的话,你可以用手指慢慢拉出每一块粘合剂。
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否则,用一点粘合剂去除剂将每个粘合剂部分浸泡2-3分钟,然后用开口或其他工具将其刮掉。 这可能需要相当多的步骤,所以要耐心。
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将任何剩余的粘合剂去除剂拖下来,并将您的MacBook Pro放置几分钟即可风干。
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校正 你新安装的电池: 将电池充电至100%并继续充电至少两小时,然后拔掉电源正常使用你的电脑。当出现低电量警告时,保存你的工作并继续使用电脑直至电量低自动休眠。静置至少5小时后一次性充电至100%。
RECOMMENDATION: The battery connector and associated screw are critical when considering battery alignment. Also don’t forget the left and right speaker assemblies when aligning the two small outer cells. I didn’t consider these and had issues.
Also, keep the transparent top film on the battery to keep the cells aligned with respect to each other, and always support all the cells if handling upside down.
I agree, if you don’t reinstall the speaker assemblies before installing the battery, they may be impossible to put back in after the battery has adhered
Anyone reconcile the different instructions for batter calibration? Inside battery package is a business card that says drain below 10% then charge uninterrupted to 100%. That is completely different then above: “Calibrate your newly installed battery: charge it to 100%, and keep charging it for at least 2 more hours. Unplug and use it normally to drain the battery. When you see the low battery warning, save your work, and keep your laptop on until it goes to sleep due to low battery. Wait at least 5 hours, then charge your laptop uninterrupted to 100%.”
The longer calibration method detailed in the guide is correct. I believe the printed cards are due for an update.
My replacement battery came with a clear plastic protective cover stuck across the top. This protective cover helps keep the four battery cells and their frame aligned properly for fitting into the space. Remove the protective cover (it peels off easily), however, before closing up your computer.
I agree that test-mounting the new battery, including re-attaching both speakers, BEFORE removing the adhesive covers, is essential for perfect alignment of the batteries… and especially important for alignment of the battery connector and its solo screw.
Pay attention to how the new battery sits in place before removing the adhesive strips. Although I did this, I didn’t notice that the rubber “feet” on the plastic frame around the middle batteries were very slightly out of alignment. The result was that the case could not be closed tight enough for the screws to fasten properly seal the case. It took a lot of poking around and attention to minor detail in order to get the case to fasten back in place.
I followed the tutorial and everything went pretty smooth, started the calibration and got to the step of recharging after waiting 5 hours and my mac wont turn on. the magsafe charger is glowing red/orange but the mac itself is showing no signs of power or charging. Any tips? thanks in advance
Removing the adhesive strips of the original battery was relatively easy - compared to removing the strips of the iFixit battery… what took me 1.5 hours. All because the first battery delivered was defective so I had to repeat the replacement. Thanks for the free and quick replacement battery - fair attitude, but that did not saved my time…
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要重新组装你的设备,请按照本指南的相反顺序进行操作。
要重新组装你的设备,请按照本指南的相反顺序进行操作。
172等其他人完成本指南。
特别感谢这些译者︰
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37条评论
What is the part number for the mid 2014 13 inch MacBook Pro battery? I see a lot of batteries for sale for the mid 2013 online. Are they compatible?
MacBook Pro 13" Retina (Late 2013-Mid 2014) Battery here is a battery replacement.
Macbook Pro A1502 not charging after disassembly/assembly (I just wanted to clean the touchpad). MagSafe is orange but the Macbook is not charging - running only when plugged in. MacOS says the battery needs to be replaced - even if it has 82% charged.. I alson tried reset of SMC and PRAM with no effect..
Any advice? Thanks
Same problem here. Did you find a solution?
Tim Bo -
Yes, same thing. Had to replace battery and now it’s working.
Check if it’s actually charging. My battery status stated that it needs to be replaced and mac was running on ac instead of battery.
Dominika -
Bonjour, mon problème : mon Mac Book Pro 13" 2014 mes pourcentage descende de 2 pourcents toutes les 2 minutes il tiens a peine 3h a votre avis vaut t'il le coup que je change la batterie ?
Merci.
I would advise working to step six, then skipping to step 16. Take the speaker cables and plastic frame, once the screws are out, and gently fold them back. I used a stiff plastic-about the thickness and size of a credit card to work the glue off from under the battery. No heat or alcohol. All together, from opening to closing, a very simple 15 minute job.
I followed the steps and unfortunately the left speaker socket came off of the control board. Which is why I advise not doing the steps between 6-15. Once the side frames and speaker is off, just fold them back and out of the way.
Brij Verma - 回复
Thank you for the post. I used it for a friend whose battery was not charging. I am fairly familiar with Macs but don't work on them everyday. This guide was very helpful. Now she has a new battery (good seller on eBay...less than $60) and is back up and going. Thank you again for the post, I greatly appreciate it (enough to give a comment...and I usually never give comments).
I recently completed this guide and everything went very smoothly. I skipped many of the steps leading up to the adhesive removal, and only found it necessary to pull up the left and right speakers. My adhesive remover had evaporated, so I just used some nail polish (100% acetone) and leverage to get the battery cells to come off the case. Be aware that once you stick the batteries in, they will be very difficult to pull back off. I put mine in slightly crooked, but everything powered up fine and my macbook's battery is good as new. My only real struggle was that since I put my batteries in a bit crooked, the case back wouldn't attach flush to the body, so I had to go back in and wiggle the small tubes surrounding the main cell so they would be seated properly.
Thanks for the guide!
Piece of cake. Hardest part was disconnecting the speaker connections, because it’s a delicate job and you really don’t know how much stress you can put on the connection until you undo the first one.
Many have suggested not removing the speakers, but I felt it gave me far better access and leverage to pry the battery out.
IFIXIT Rocks! Thank you so much for the fantastic guides.
I wish you the greatest success in 2018!
Langston Holland
I found this guide to be great. My first time replacing a battery on any laptop. The only hard part was of course removing the old battery. I used the hair dryer method I saw on YouTube. Took me a while, over an hour, only because it was my first time and I wanted to make sure I did it right. Everything powered back up and is working normal. I am so glad I found these guides. Thank you so much. Apple store here in Jacksonville, Fl wanted to send my laptop out to a service center for a track pad replacement, if that was what was needed, for up to $400. Meaning, it might not cost that much, but it could, so be prepared. My issue was a trackpad that was not clicking any more. Fiddled with the screw a bit and it still wouldn’t click right, checked the battery cycle and saw that it was at 890 so that needed to be replaced. So got my battery from here and replaced that and fiddled with the same trackpad a bit and it is better, but still won’t click the same as new, but it does work just OK.
Should I be worried about ESD? Anti-static Wrist strap? Plug-in the MacBook to have it grounded? Perform the replacement completely naked on hardwood floors in a moist environment? Or just touch a part of the metal laptop frame before I start touching more delicate components?
@dylanf79 Yes, always have a strategy for protecting against ESD. Modern devices have a lot of ESD protection baked in, and using ESD-safe tools like the ones recommended in this guide goes a long way—but still, better safe than sorry. Use a wrist strap if you like, or just touch a metal part of the chassis frequently during the repair. Remove rings and other metal jewelry from your hands before you start. Definitely avoid environments with a high static charge (performing the repair while shuffling back and forth across a carpeted room not recommended).
I gave a friend my old 2014 MacBook Pro and got myself a new one. I loved the machine, but she needed one. A week after she had it, she spilled a glass of water on it. After drying it out, it worked fine, but wouldn’t run from, or charge the battery. Most people suggested it needed an new $700+ logic board, but a few suggested I start with just a battery replacement. So I bought the kit from Ifixit. The kit was complete with everything I needed. The step by step instructions were clear and easy to follow. And best of all the battery replacement alone has the machine working as good as new for only $99.
Thanks Ifixit!!!
Done, thanks a lot.
We’ll see if my work is valuable in time by now.
SMC/NVRAM initialisation have been necessary as expected, but all works at first try.
Some comments though,
- in my mid 2014 MBP the battery has only pads instead of screws, and the battery provided in the kit needs a bit of tweaking to fit inside, though nothing that hard.
- maybe you should add some advices about having a little magnifying glass with you to disconnect precisely and safely the connectors with the spudger (especially if you’re older than 50 like me :D) and a blower (the kind you use for photography gears for instance) to get off the dust accumulated in time in the inside. A little vacuum can help to, if handled very carefully (to avoid aspiring little screws or parts of course).
- could be a good advice too to tell people to place the sheet of aluminum foil even before the beginning of the work, as it is safer to manipulate the computer while it is still closed.
However excellent “how to” and toolkit.
Thanks again
Thanks for a great guide. iFixit! I second the remarks of Pierre on the pads instead of screws, the magnifying glass (50+ :-). I havent used the removal solution, slightly worried about messing up the plastic parts. With a bit of patience, 2 blunt metal spudgers and a few business cards to prevent re-attachment it worked in my hands.
After battery replacement complete. I have an error “WiFi no hardware installed”
blue tooh not available either
What could I have jostled loose? I reset PRAM and SmC. I’ll try doing those things again. But I was pretty confident with my actions while repairing.
Check the AirPort card and antenna connections, and make sure nothing got knocked loose by accident. Reconnect/reseat all the connectors, reboot, and reset NVRAM and SMC again. Good luck!
Well it took a few extra days to get my battery due to weather conditions out west but I got it. This is my second foray into the sick-demented-world of the glued in battery. My first was with my 2013 15 inch MacBook Pro and that was a success despite gutting my wee bearin to get it done. The 2014 13 inch MacBook Pro was easy - I wound up carefully prying up the battery and then cleaning up the sticky. It is back together the fan was running full speed. I disconnect and reconnect the battery and that seems to have solved it - guess it did not seat right the first time - said unrecognized battery but now all is well.
I am sure glad I have good business insurance. Once these batteries set them selves on FIRE they don’t stop and are as hot as a welding torch and you can’t stop them. I now know why the shipping companies have special requirements for shipping these.
Be careful…. :-)
This is why it’s so important to discharge the battery before you start any repair. Stay safe out there!
I used the dental floss method with the iOpener. I removed the cells starting from the top, using the spudger’s tip to push the floss under the cell. Removal of old battery was very fast. I did not remove the speakers at all, since I did not need access to the sides.
Very helpful, I changed the replaced the battery from my mac. Thanks a lot. :)
A precaution though: be extra careful while sticking the new battery the glue is very strong it will not move once it touches the battery compartment . I think i ruined the right speaker because of this. :D. I had to balance 100% of the speaker output to the left speaker because of this.
I just went through this process and am appreciative of the guides. I say ‘guides’ (plural) because there are a number of 30-some step procedures for the similar models of Macbook Pro, and they all contain about 25 steps too many. Like many of the others, I did steps 1-4 then carefully freed my discharged battery using a plastic smudger. New one installed without a hitch and my trackpad, which was previously not working properly due to pressure from a swollen battery, is now back to functioning perfectly. Definitely worth the work to get another 2-4 years out of this laptop.
Pro tip: use ‘yes’ to blast your CPU and empty your old battery quickly. In terminal run ‘yes /dev/null’ for each CPU you want to stress so for 4 CPUs you’d do:
yes > /dev/null & yes > /dev/null & yes > /dev/null & yes > /dev/null
If you command-c to quit you’ll only kill one, oddly so after exiting out you’ll need to do this to kill the rest:
killall -HUP yes
At 5K cycles my battery was still just above 80% capacity but it was draining when in sleep/powered off.
Bought the replacement battery here, replaced using this guide and everything is fine now! Thanks ifixit community!
I never received any adhesive remover with my kit purchase. what exactly is the adhesive remover and can I use something similar to take old battery out? please help me
It is acetone. This can be commonly purchased as nail polish remover.
This seems to be a very complicated way of replacing the battery! There are a few videos on YouTube showing how you can use string to remove the battery.
Hi, can you please send a link to those videos?
Super Beschreibung! Unbedingt an die Anleitung halten. Ich hatte bereits einen gewölbten defekten Akku in der Mitte und nicht die “Karte” bestellt und verwendet. Leider hab ich mit einem Lineal den anderen (nicht defekten) Akku in der Mitte beschädigt, so dass er stark zum Qualmen angefangen hatte. Gott sei Dank hab ich den Akku dann doch noch rausbekommen. Jetzt läuft das Teil wieder wie gewohnt. Danke
Successful repair! My battery was very well glued so I ended up using a combination of fixit adhesive remover and dental floss. My theory is that you don’t have to use so much of the adhesive remover that way. Thanks a lot for the guide!
Everything went smoothly and I was very careful with the adhesive but now some of my buttons stop working like enter and P. Then I followed the instructions that I should let the battery charge and then let it die and then charge it up again. But it will not start!!!!!????? HELP
For all the screws you use the P5 pentalobe screwdriver?
Carlos - 回复
Pentalobe is only for the screws on the bottom cover. The Torx screw driver is for the remainder.
Fredrik -
Is the Pentalobe screwdriver mentioned in the tools list? I did not have one so I used a filed down flat blade screwdriver. Not a fantastic idea, but it works.
Alex Birkett - 回复
Yes, it's mentioned on the top of this page. P5 Pentalobe to be precise. I didn't have one either, so I bought one from iFixit and that works fantastic. An absolutely precise fit, which is important especially when you might open your MacBook a couple of times during the years you own it. Not using the correct tool might do more harm to the screws than you want! I once had this with a Lenovo Yoga 3 Pro, which has Torx screws (T4 I think) and I used cheap Chinese quality tools, with the result that both the tool and one of the screws are damaged.
addvariety -
I never, ever, ever considered using anything but the correct tool on the Pentalobe screws. Too easy to strip and void your warranty (if still in effect), as well as make it almost impossible to get inside later for another upgrade or repair. The Wiha P5 Pentalobe screwdriver fits like a glove and costs only about $11 (a fraction of your drive's price)at Amazon.com. Get it!
marketing - 回复
is P5 supposed to be for all 10 screws? it works on the 2x 2.3mm at the top, but not for the 8x others for me. what size screwdriver for the 3mm? thanks
monsieurescargot - 回复
Yes, the p5 works for all 10 pentalobe screw heads for bottom cover. The the different size mm reference only refers to the difference in length of the screws, but again both heads are p5.
Antoine Thornton - 回复
I followed this exactly and was able to replace my broken trackpad. I did not have to replace the ribbon OR the battery. However I would suggest getting the ribbon since it’s fairly cheap, as for the batteries I was able to do it with a card only. I didn’t use any heat or the liquid but it takes some time. You really have to work the card in there to release the glue. Also you must be very careful not to bend the batteries or damage them, if you do you must replace with new. This took me about 1.5hrs and my computer works like new. Apple cost for this job was around $450, I did it for $120. Big ups to ifixit for this awesome tutorial, tool set and parts!
On a side note, only use quality tools, the cheap ones will break or strip the screws.
Dustin Steward - 回复
Note that the eight 3mm screws have a shoulder under the head, while the two 2.3mm screws are “full thread”, i.e., there is no shoulder under their heads. It’s important to put the two screws with no shoulder at the hinge of the cover.
All ten screws require a P5 Pentalobe screwdriver, preferably with a magnetized tip to help hold and position the screw.
All of the screws have blue “Loctite” thread locker compound on their threads. This is to help prevent the screws from working loose and falling out. Don’t attempt to clean the Loctite from the screws — leave it in place, and it will continue to help prevent the re-inserted screws from working loose.
When replacing the bottom cover, it is a good technique to insert and BEGIN tightening all ten screws BEFORE fully tightening any one screw. After all the screws have been started, then go around and finish tightening all of them. By doing this, you make it easier to feel that each screw has been started properly, and is not “cross-threaded”.
doubleclutch - 回复
This is what I found on my MBP mid-2014 13” Retina. All 10 used the same screwdriver. I didn’t see the blue “loctite” but I also got my computer refurbished.
Evan Shulman -
A good technique for starting to thread the screws when replacing them is to position and align the screw, and with the driver, gently turn the screw in the REMOVAL direction until you feel and hear a slight click. This click happens when the leading thread of the screw drops off of the leading edge of the thread in the hole — this is the point at which the threads are properly positioned for engagement. You can now turn the driver and screw in the TIGHTENING direction. This technique will help prevent accidental “cross-threading” of the screw, which will damage the threads permanently.
Note that this is a useful technique when installing ANY threaded fastener.
doubleclutch - 回复
Just finished replacing my battery (MacBook Pro 13” early 2015), glad I did, the old ones were noticeably swollen. I was surprised to find the battery at 57% upon completion and charging the new battery. No problems with replacement however, kit arrived without the Pentalobe driver. I got a nice complete kit from Amazon for 20 euro in 2 days. iFixit offered a coupon on any future purchase but right now, I have no plans on needing anything. Nice gesture but would have preferred the driver in the kit in the first place.
Suggest having a small can of compressed air on hand to clean out the interior, after 4 years, mine was quite dirty. Ear buds and alcohol were the best I could do. And a magnetized driver is mandatory I think.
D M - 回复
REQUIRED PARTS (SCREWS) TO DO THIS JOB UNAVAILABLE HERE:
If your keyboard is riveted to the chassis as mine is, Late 2013 MBP 13” retina, you need about 100 screws to reattach the new keyboard.
ifixit does not have them. I did just now find them at Beetstech for $4.50 along with a back light $13 for the keyboard in case you want one. It looks like Beetstech is a big competitor of ifixit with an excellent reputation (like ifixit has) too. I just ordered these parts and will not happily be moving forward with my keyboard replacement.
Timothy Hardman - 回复
Fun Fact: I got three of the 2,3 mm Pentalopes … ;-)
Paco Demant - 回复
My PB had eight (8), 2.3 mm screws and two (2), 3.0 mm screws.
ellamama - 回复
Hi peeps,
I have a wifi problem on this MBP 13” early 2015 and was pleasently surprised to find your guide to changing the airport card.
However upon closer inspection it seems that on my MBP (purchased new or so I thought) the 3 antennae seem so have been soldered together at the point where they are clamped to the chassis. I have photos but cannot post here. Can anyone conform that where the 3 antennae wires are held to the chssis by the 2 scew metal support (just before disappearing into the screen hinge), the support is not meant to short the 3 wires together. This makes no sense for 3 seperate antennae wires.
Any advice /close up photos is welcome here.
dom
colonel mustard - 回复
Tip: Use post-it notes to keep track of screws
1. Pack of post it notes
2. Stick screws to the sticky part of the post it note
3. Write on the post it note which step and what kind of screw it is
ibash - 回复
Hi, in order to drain the battery I am running:
yes > /dev/null
in 4 terminals, so the CPU maxes out at almost 99%.
I hope this speeds up the battery draining process.
And the backlight is at maximum brightness :-)
You can see the cpu load in Activity Monitor.
Its draining at 20% per 15 minutes.
Any concerns about draining the battery in this way?
Andre van der Ham - 回复
Something I’ve been curious about, is it possible to upgrade a late 2013 Retina model MacBook Pro, with the improved 16gb ram and i7 processor logic board from the 2015 retina model? I’d be interested to try but not ready to shell out the $500+ to be the first lol
Chat Dawgie - 回复
The batteries of my MBP 13” (early 2015) were distended. due to outgassing. They are 3,5 years old but only had 340 cycles. I suppose that the batteries age faster when your computer is permanently plugged in.
When unscrewing the bottom lid, I didn’t have to exert any force to remove the lid as it already popped loose due to the expanded batteries.
Olivier Biot - 回复
By the way, on my pentalobe bit it reads 1.2 instead of P5.
Olivier Biot - 回复