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简介

使用本指南来移除MacBook Pro 的粘合电池。 推荐使用iFixit 更换套件。 您的套件中的液体粘合剂去除剂将溶解固定电池的粘合剂,从而轻松拆卸电池。 或者,您可以使用iOpener,以便在撬出电池之前软化粘合剂。

“iFixit胶粘剂去除剂是极度易燃的。”在通风良好的地方进行。 在此过程中,请不要吸烟或者在明火附近工作。

'''“为了安全起见,在开始执行此程序之前请先用尽MacBook Pro的电池。” 如果意外穿刺充电的锂离子电池可能会造成危险且无法控制的火灾。如果你的电池膨胀鼓包了,请采取额外措施

注意':用于溶解电池胶粘剂的溶剂可能会损坏某些塑料部件,如MacBook Pro的塑料扬声器外壳。 使用溶剂时要小心。

如果你在使用注射器和瓶子分装的旧款iFixit胶水去除剂,click here for a slightly modified set of instructions.

    • 拆下以下10个固定在上壳体上的螺丝

    • 两个 2.3毫米 的梅花五角螺丝

    • 八个 3.0毫米 的梅花五角螺丝

    • 在本次维修中,要对每个螺丝做好记录以便准确装回,避免对设备造成伤害。

    For all the screws you use the P5 pentalobe screwdriver?

    Carlos - 回复

    Pentalobe is only for the screws on the bottom cover. The Torx screw driver is for the remainder.

    Fredrik -

    I never, ever, ever considered using anything but the correct tool on the Pentalobe screws. Too easy to strip and void your warranty (if still in effect), as well as make it almost impossible to get inside later for another upgrade or repair. The Wiha P5 Pentalobe screwdriver fits like a glove and costs only about $11 (a fraction of your drive's price)at Amazon.com. Get it!

    marketing - 回复

    I followed this exactly and was able to replace my broken trackpad. I did not have to replace the ribbon OR the battery. However I would suggest getting the ribbon since it’s fairly cheap, as for the batteries I was able to do it with a card only. I didn’t use any heat or the liquid but it takes some time. You really have to work the card in there to release the glue. Also you must be very careful not to bend the batteries or damage them, if you do you must replace with new. This took me about 1.5hrs and my computer works like new. Apple cost for this job was around $450, I did it for $120. Big ups to ifixit for this awesome tutorial, tool set and parts!

    On a side note, only use quality tools, the cheap ones will break or strip the screws.

    Dustin Steward - 回复

    Note that the eight 3mm screws have a shoulder under the head, while the two 2.3mm screws are “full thread”, i.e., there is no shoulder under their heads. It’s important to put the two screws with no shoulder at the hinge of the cover.

    All ten screws require a P5 Pentalobe screwdriver, preferably with a magnetized tip to help hold and position the screw.

    All of the screws have blue “Loctite” thread locker compound on their threads. This is to help prevent the screws from working loose and falling out. Don’t attempt to clean the Loctite from the screws — leave it in place, and it will continue to help prevent the re-inserted screws from working loose.

    When replacing the bottom cover, it is a good technique to insert and BEGIN tightening all ten screws BEFORE fully tightening any one screw. After all the screws have been started, then go around and finish tightening all of them. By doing this, you make it easier to feel that each screw has been started properly, and is not “cross-threaded”.

    doubleclutch - 回复

    This is what I found on my MBP mid-2014 13” Retina. All 10 used the same screwdriver. I didn’t see the blue “loctite” but I also got my computer refurbished.

    Evan Shulman -

    A good technique for starting to thread the screws when replacing them is to position and align the screw, and with the driver, gently turn the screw in the REMOVAL direction until you feel and hear a slight click. This click happens when the leading thread of the screw drops off of the leading edge of the thread in the hole — this is the point at which the threads are properly positioned for engagement. You can now turn the driver and screw in the TIGHTENING direction. This technique will help prevent accidental “cross-threading” of the screw, which will damage the threads permanently.

    Note that this is a useful technique when installing ANY threaded fastener.

    doubleclutch - 回复

    Hi peeps,

    I have a wifi problem on this MBP 13” early 2015 and was pleasently surprised to find your guide to changing the airport card.

    However upon closer inspection it seems that on my MBP (purchased new or so I thought) the 3 antennae seem so have been soldered together at the point where they are clamped to the chassis. I have photos but cannot post here. Can anyone conform that where the 3 antennae wires are held to the chssis by the 2 scew metal support (just before disappearing into the screen hinge), the support is not meant to short the 3 wires together. This makes no sense for 3 seperate antennae wires.

    Any advice /close up photos is welcome here.

    dom

    colonel mustard - 回复

    Tip: Use post-it notes to keep track of screws

    1. Pack of post it notes

    2. Stick screws to the sticky part of the post it note

    3. Write on the post it note which step and what kind of screw it is

    ibash - 回复

    Hi, in order to drain the battery I am running:

    yes > /dev/null

    in 4 terminals, so the CPU maxes out at almost 99%.

    I hope this speeds up the battery draining process.

    And the backlight is at maximum brightness :-)

    You can see the cpu load in Activity Monitor.

    Its draining at 20% per 15 minutes.

    Any concerns about draining the battery in this way?

    Andre van der Ham - 回复

    Something I’ve been curious about, is it possible to upgrade a late 2013 Retina model MacBook Pro, with the improved 16gb ram and i7 processor logic board from the 2015 retina model? I’d be interested to try but not ready to shell out the $500+ to be the first lol

    Chat Dawgie - 回复

    Without rehashing what others have said, I would highly recommend reading through the steps *and* the comments for each before tackling your replacement for tips. Highlights for me were: only disconnecting what actually needed to be disconnected, rotating the spudger to release the track pad cable, a hair dryer worked perfectly fine, and the pencil outline of the battery before you remove. You got this!

    N DesRochers - 回复

    Installation of replacement AirPort card was easier than I had expected thanks to this guide. Thank you.

    chaslaw - 回复

    I use replaced SSD and it was super easy and working great. I can finally upgrade Mac OS with plenty of room to spare and no more low memory alerts. Well worth investment and didn’t have to buy new laptop

    Pete James - 回复

    It's interesting that this tutorial is rated Moderate even though you need to remove the battery. The battery removal tutorial which is basically the same but with fewer steps is rated Difficult.

    Marv Ruona - 回复

    when i pulled the screws out i arranged them in the same way they were in. the top 2 middle screws appeared to be shorter than the rest. in order to keep them in place i got a square of packing tape sticky side up, taped both sides down with 2 other pieces of tape. and then put the screws head down in the order i pulled them.

    Jason Wade - 回复

  1. MacBook Pro 13" Retina 显示屏  2014年中期  电池更换: 步骤 2 中的图像 1,1
    • 把你的手指放在上下壳体中间

    • 轻轻地把上下壳体拉开

    This takes a bit more effort than you might expect. Put your fingers where shown and lift about 3inches. With enough upwards pressure the plastic holders will “pop free” and the bottom will come off easily.

    hamiltont - 回复

    To reattach bottom case I found it helpful to line fingers up with clips under case should snap easily

    Peter Stoll - 回复

    If your old battery has swollen, the lower case may “pop” open. Don’t lose your screws!

    Maxine Loveman - 回复

  2. MacBook Pro 13" Retina 显示屏  2014年中期  电池更换: 步骤 3 中的图像 1,2 MacBook Pro 13" Retina 显示屏  2014年中期  电池更换: 步骤 3 中的图像 2,2
    • 上下壳体中间有两个塑料卡扣相连

    • 在组装期间,温柔地从中间推下机壳,重新扣上这两个塑料卡扣。

    This wording I found quite confusing. They just mean when putting the lid back on that you just removed in the previous step, push here.

    Mmm ttt - 回复

    I took my pointer and thumb (which are luckily long enough) to feel where the studs are on the back panel, and then as I put the back panel back on, I pushed in the spot I had marked with my fingers to ensure I was applying pressure only on this part.

    Evan Shulman - 回复

    If you’re doing an iFixIt battery replacement, the replacement battery has two rubber nubs which are right where the clips are that receive these studs. Folks have been saying it’s hard to get the studs to clip back in after replacement, and I had the same issue. I trimmed the top of these rubber nubs, which are a bit bigger than those on the original battery, with some side cutters. That made the fit much better.

    Rob Gorbet - 回复

  3. MacBook Pro 13" Retina 显示屏  2014年中期  电池更换, 电池连接器: 步骤 4 中的图像 1,1
    • 如有必要,可拆卸粘在电池接触板上的塑料盖。

    A plastic foam cover also covers plug and socket and the whole battery. It is easy to remove it from the right side to the trackpad wire that the battery plug is free like shown in the picture. I kept it to use it again later.

    Daniel Brehm - 回复

    I have done tons of these battery replacements.

    You don’t need to do anything on the list after you disconnect the battery, apart from carefully moving the speakers out of the way, and then prise up the battery modules. I just very carefully, and with little even motions, use a large slot screwdriver. Being careful to keep it flat, to not puncture the battery.

    Easy peasy. I have never had an issue after dozens of the tasks…

    davelarose - 回复

    Dear Sir,

    as you seem to be very much experienced with battery replacements you might perhaps give me a hint why after having removed the battery pack successfilly, the keyboard doesn't work anymore after booting the system. The Touchpad works, the keyboard backlight works but typing does not function at all.

    I only disconnected the battery connector and touched nothing else. I am quite desperate …

    Gerd Uyan -

    I agree with Dave la Rose, provided you use heat rather than solvent to remove the old battery (or possibly floss, haven’t done that). Please see my comment further down this thread on how to use an iOpener for correctly heating the glue joint

    I. Margaronis - 回复

  4. MacBook Pro 13" Retina 显示屏  2014年中期  电池更换: 步骤 5 中的图像 1,2 MacBook Pro 13" Retina 显示屏  2014年中期  电池更换: 步骤 5 中的图像 2,2
    • 用撬棒的平端,将电池连接器从主板插座上直着往上撬起。

    • 确保您只抬起了连接器本身,而不是插座,否则您可能会对主板造成永久性的损坏。

    I have a friends MacBook Pro that has some water damage that caused the MacBook not to be able to use battery power, but still work when plugged into A/C. Upon further inspection I can see visible corrosion on a few of the 9 cables going from the battery connector to that small circuit board. Is it possible to just replace that circuit board?

    jramsey21 - 回复

    Sometimes it can be enough to just clean the contacts without having to replace the entire board. Dosent work for complicated IC's like plcc type, where corrosion is underneath the chip. Here you will have to reheat and reapply the IC.

    andrehedegaard -

    When placing the battery connector back into the socket on the logic board, check that every part of connector is pressed down. You should hear a soft click when it's back in place.

    Ethan Tarquin - 回复

    +1

    I thought I made sure it was connected but when running the computer it only detected the battery but couldn’t power it. I had to run with power adapter. Also it didn’t charge. I guess some pins were connected but not all. To verify that all were connected I removed the plastic cover, placed it carefully completely flat, and then reattached the plastic cover. After that it worked!

    Jonas Ehrs -

    Removing the battery connector took a bit of finagling. It wasn’t as easy as one would think. Be very careful when doing this as they warn to not damage it. Otherwise great instructions!!!!

    Peppon - 回复

    Lift from the long, flat side, not the shorter side. In this picture, you should lift from the NORTH part of the connector, not the WEST side like they are doing. This is because you can spread the pressure from lifting the connector across more area, as compared to the side. I accidentally broke off part of my battery connector lifting it up the way shown, but was able to do it the way I described without problem. Make sure to lift from the wide part so you don’t have my same trouble!

    Jaden Salama - 回复

    The connector is no more than 1mm thick… the socket is 3-to-4mm deep so make sure you’re trying to remove the connector itself, and not pulling at the socket.

    Richie Egg - 回复

    Thank you Richie I was trying to lift the socket.

    be careful the little square block is actually made of 2 parts and you only have to lift the upper part as Richie said

    ilyes - 回复

    You can do it from the side like the picture, but i would recommend twisting almost like a screw driver once you have leverage under the overhanging part of the left side like in the picture. Twist the tool so that it starts to put pressure on the top, until you’ll hear it click out. You can be somewhat forceful but it shouldn’t require a lot of strength. Guiding the tool with one hand and twisting with the other is a good way to attempt this.

    Colin Nowers - 回复

    After I put the battery back I found out at this step that the new battery connector was off by 2 mm (because I installed my battery slightly off). Since the connector is rigid, I removed it’s plastic cover (just like we all did in Step 4) to free the cable, which allowed me to bent it enough to properly plug the connector.

    Marc - 回复

  5. MacBook Pro 13" Retina 显示屏  2014年中期  电池更换: 步骤 6 中的图像 1,1
    • 在维修过程中,将电池连接器弯曲,以防止意外接触其插座。

    If you miss or let this step for later like I did, the power left in the battery even though the computer is completely shut down, will screw up the I/O board cable like I did. I noticed this after I put all the pieces back, turn the computer on and surprise, no wifi hardware is detected. -.-

    sebasgaes - 回复

    I put a small piece of blue painters tape on the battery connector contacts to prevent it from accidentally making a connection and shorting. This helped keep things a bit more protected.

    LaymanLab - 回复

  6. MacBook Pro 13" Retina 显示屏  2014年中期  电池更换, 右扬声器: 步骤 7 中的图像 1,1
    • 移除将I/O板线缆末端与逻辑板相固定的 两颗2.1 mm T5 Torx 螺丝。

    At this point it's a good idea to take sheet of printer paper, like A4, and press each screw into the paper roughly in the position it was removed from. When it comes time to reassemble it, you wont get the different lengths mixed up.

    Martin Gray - 回复

    This step was not necessary for me to remove the battery. Perhaps it's a safety precaution? Regardless, skipped the I/O Cable removal (Steps 7, 8, 9, 10) and didn't have any problems replacing the battery.

    barak - 回复

    After this step I continued from step 13, the steps in between were not really necessary in my opinion ( I succeeded the replacement without them). Just be careful not to touch these connectors during replacement.

    driesverfaillie - 回复

    While it may not be necessary to remove the left and right speakers, doing so will make it much easier to get at (and under) the end batteries and their adhesive pads. Also, by removing the speakers, you also get them out of harm’s way while you wrestle with loosening the batteries’ adhesives.

    I recommend removing the speakers and their connectors as described in the iFixit instructions.

    doubleclutch - 回复

    I did this step when replacing both my L and R speakers on my MBP mid-2014 13” so it would be easier to access the speaker connector

    Evan Shulman - 回复

    I agree that moving the speakers out of the way makes battery removal easier but I didn’t disconnect the right speaker, just removed the screws and folded it back out of the way. I disconnected and removed the left speaker as instructed below.

    Jim Turney - 回复

    I have done tons of these battery replacements.

    You don’t need to do anything on the list after you disconnect the battery, apart from carefully moving the speakers out of the way, and then prise up the battery modules. I just very carefully, and with little even motions, use a large slot screwdriver. Being careful to keep it flat, to not puncture the battery.

    Easy peasy. I have never had an issue after dozens of the tasks…

    davelarose - 回复

    I am not sure why I was even bothering with touching the speakers at all. Since April I have done at least another dozen 13” battery replacements. You simply do not need to touch the speakers for any reason, and, in fact, touching introduces unnecessary risk.

    This whole procedure of replacing the battery may easily be done in about 20 minutes.

    davelarose - 回复

    davelarose keeps saying not to remove the speakers, but he is using hot air method. If you are trying to remove the battery using adhesive remover you won’t be able to get the right angle with the spudger if you leave the speakers in, without risking damaging them. I didn’t remove any of the speaker connectors however and just undid the speaker screws and moved the speakers up out of the way temporarily, this worked well.

    Ashley Mills - 回复

    i had a random philips screw wedged between the IO connector and the battery? i dont know if this was a manufacture mistake or what. i didnt put the screw back in because i felt like it was there by mistake.

    Jason Wade - 回复

  7. MacBook Pro 13" Retina 显示屏  2014年中期  电池更换: 步骤 8 中的图像 1,1
    • 使用镊子抓住I/O线缆托架将其从Mac Book中移除。

    Totally unnecessary step…

    davelarose - 回复

    Why did I have to do this step?

    Diane St John - 回复

    Good question… I don’t understand it.

    Lilian Valverde - 回复

  8. MacBook Pro 13" Retina 显示屏  2014年中期  电池更换: 步骤 9 中的图像 1,2 MacBook Pro 13" Retina 显示屏  2014年中期  电池更换: 步骤 9 中的图像 2,2
    • 使用撬棒扁平的一段来将I/O板的连接器与逻辑板上的插座分离。

    • 小心,只能在I/O板线缆上撬起,而不是从逻辑板上的插座撬起,这样做可能会损坏逻辑板。

    This step is not required.

    davelarose - 回复

  9. MacBook Pro 13" Retina 显示屏  2014年中期  电池更换: 步骤 10 中的图像 1,2 MacBook Pro 13" Retina 显示屏  2014年中期  电池更换: 步骤 10 中的图像 2,2
    • 将I/O板线缆提起,将其弯折到一边。

    • 为了避免损伤线缆,只能在I/O板线缆弯曲处弯折

    I removed I/O Board cable completely on both ends using a flat end plastic spudger tool. I did not feel comfortable “bending” it as shown in Pic. Be careful to not damage sockets on either end when removing battery. Extra care to not get any adhesive debris in exposed sockets. I have used the solvent with syringe and that can get rather messy and risk getting liquid onto keyboard/screen/motherboard components etc/. This time I used a plastic “Disposable Putty Knife” from Ace hardware. Speakers where easily removed in subsequent steps. Started pushing in from edges with plastic putty knife and battery cells separated surprisingly easy. This method is clean & much easier than the dental floss struggle!! I used Googone with QTips to remove adhesive remnants.

    lamajr - 回复

    What is the strip sticking out from behind the battery at the top right middle?? How do I reconnect that?? I think that's why my battery isn't working. I was going to get to the Trac pad until I realized how big a job it is. Just want to fix this connection and put it back the way it was :(

    numbers - 回复

    Besser: Das Kabel kann leicht an beiden Enden gelöst und dann herausgenommen werden. Dann ist es nicht im Weg.

    Karsten Franke - 回复

    Don’t perform this step. I have zero idea why it is in this guide…

    davelarose - 回复

  10. MacBook Pro 13" Retina 显示屏  2014年中期  电池更换: 步骤 11 中的图像 1,2 MacBook Pro 13" Retina 显示屏  2014年中期  电池更换: 步骤 11 中的图像 2,2
    • 小心在右侧扬声器连接线缆下放置撬棒的尖端,来将其从逻辑板上的插座中撬起。

    Same as my comment on Step 7: This step was not necessary for me to remove the battery. Perhaps it's a safety precaution? Regardless, I skipped the speaker cable removal (Steps 11, 12) and didn't have any problems replacing the battery. Same as my comment on Step 11: This step was not necessary for me to remove the battery. Perhaps it's a safety precaution? Regardless, I skipped the speaker cable removal (Steps 11, 12) and didn't have any problems replacing the battery. ( FYI - I used a heat path method, vs the solvent)

    barak - 回复

    WARNING TO ANYONE WHO DOES THIS STEP! Be very careful to distinguish the cable end from the socket! I just managed to break the entire socket off of the logic board. I may try to solder it back on, but I may not, since it’s only for the speaker… Very disappointing anyway. The instructions should make it more clear just how delicate the socket itself is, especially right where the photo shows you inserting the spudger under the cable end to start dislodging it. It’s really hard to distinguish the cable end from the socket on this side!

    jiclark - 回复

    Put the spudger under the very centre where you see the cutout and be gentle !! It does in fact pry upward the wire itself is very fragile.

    Mmm ttt - 回复

    I used the flat end of the spudger and tried to match the width of the connector, while applying gentle upward pressure to pop it off.

    Evan Shulman - 回复

    The key to accomplishing this step easily and without danger to the socket… is to follow the instruction (and the picture) PRECISELY by placing the spudger flat end under the CABLE (not the connector). Lifting the CABLE easily removes the connector from the socket without getting anywhere near the socket.

    Ralph Begleiter - 回复

    Seconding barak’s comment, no need to disconnect the speaker cables, keep them attached and just swing the brackets out of the way.

    Julio Garcia - 回复

    Barak is absolutely correct.

    DO NOT DO THIS STEP…

    davelarose - 回复

  11. MacBook Pro 13" Retina 显示屏  2014年中期  电池更换: 步骤 12 中的图像 1,3 MacBook Pro 13" Retina 显示屏  2014年中期  电池更换: 步骤 12 中的图像 2,3 MacBook Pro 13" Retina 显示屏  2014年中期  电池更换: 步骤 12 中的图像 3,3
    • 小心地将右侧扬声器线缆从外壳上剥离。

    Why? Why does this step exist?

    Fiddling with these small cables is a poor idea if not required…

    davelarose - 回复

  12. MacBook Pro 13" Retina 显示屏  2014年中期  电池更换: 步骤 13 中的图像 1,1
    • 移除将右扬声器与顶壳固定的螺丝。

    • 一颗 5.7 mm T5 Torx 螺丝

    • 一颗6.5 mm T5 Torx螺丝

    • 一颗3.8 mm T5 Torx 螺丝

    Important to keep track here of which screw is which, for reassembly. The longest screw belongs in the middle socket. The shortest goes in the socket at the bottom of the picture.

    Ralph Begleiter - 回复

    No. Just no! Another unneeded step…

    davelarose - 回复

  13. MacBook Pro 13" Retina 显示屏  2014年中期  电池更换: 步骤 14 中的图像 1,3 MacBook Pro 13" Retina 显示屏  2014年中期  电池更换: 步骤 14 中的图像 2,3 MacBook Pro 13" Retina 显示屏  2014年中期  电池更换: 步骤 14 中的图像 3,3
    • 从线缆的末端提起右侧扬声器,使之与机壳分离。

    There may be some adhesive securing the cable - work it loose with a spudger before removal.

    Bob Kemp - 回复

    Very clear step by step tutorial as usual. I removed both of my MBP 2013 speakers and it was just fine. My laptop sounds like the first day now (with genuine used speakers) Thanks?

    pticrounchi@orange.fr - 回复

    Unless you are replacing the speakers, DO NOT do this step, you are risking damage without reason…

    davelarose - 回复

    I’ve replaced both speakers, but now it sounds terrible. Any suggestions on why that’s the case? (supposing it’s not the new speakers’ fault that is).

    Jan - 回复

  14. MacBook Pro 13" Retina 显示屏  2014年中期  电池更换, 左扬声器: 步骤 15 中的图像 1,2 MacBook Pro 13" Retina 显示屏  2014年中期  电池更换, 左扬声器: 步骤 15 中的图像 2,2
    • 将撬棒头部插入连接器附近的左扬声器的线缆下,轻轻撬起,使其从主板上脱离。

    Same as my comment on Step 11: This step was not necessary for me to remove the battery. Perhaps it's a safety precaution? Regardless, I skipped the speaker cable removal (Steps 11, 12) and didn't have any problems replacing the battery. ( FYI - I used a heat path method, vs the solvent).

    barak - 回复

    Yes, no need to unplug the speakers cable. I used the solent, just put speakers on the motherboard.

    Aleš Smokvina - 回复

    slight touch of glue secures speaker cable to MB. Use steady light presuure with spudger edge to unglue and then disconnect cable from MB

    lamajr - 回复

    I picked up my steps back here when replacing both my L and R speakers on my MBP mid-2014 13”. I used the flat part of the spudger and gently, carefully applied a fulcrum upward pressure to the base of the speaker connector to help pop it off.

    Evan Shulman - 回复

    I, too, found it unnecessary to unplug this speaker. It was easy, and not stressful to the speaker cable, to fold the speaker upwards and rest it on the motherboard.

    Ralph Begleiter - 回复

    When removing the left speaker as shown in the image in the photo, the left-most fixing part (protrusion) is broken. Will there be any problems using it?

    JangJaeHee - 回复

    Ugh. I agree with Barak; why is touching the speakers in these guides? On both the 13” and 15” you can easily replace the batteries WITHOUT even vaguely touching the batteries…

    davelarose - 回复

    Parts of this guide are used for other guides, such as replacing the top case. But also, the speakers can be damaged by solvents, so it’s not a bad idea if the method you’re using has the possibility of getting solvent on them. It’s easy enough to just remove the screws and move the speakers out of the way without disconnecting them.

    maccentric -

    Removing the speakers is very important if you use solvent — solvent will damage the speakers and can lead to a horrible buzzing. I failed to understand this and skipped removing the speakers when dissolving the glue and paid the price: speakers that are essentially unusable.

    That said, unplugged is not necessary, merely removing the speakers (Step 16).

    John Hawkinson - 回复

  15. MacBook Pro 13" Retina 显示屏  2014年中期  电池更换: 步骤 16 中的图像 1,1
    • 将固定左扬声器的几颗螺丝拆下:

    • 一颗 5.7 mm T5 Torx螺丝

    • 一颗 6.5 mm T5 Torx螺丝

    • 一颗 3.8 mm T5 Torx螺丝

    Same note as above: Important to keep track here of which screw is which, for reassembly. The longest screw belongs in the middle socket. The shortest goes in the socket at the bottom of the picture.

    Ralph Begleiter - 回复

    Where can I get these 3 sizes of t5 torx screw drivers?

    greg steigleder - 回复

    Greg, the T5 Torx screw driver is one size. The different sizes listed above are the *lengths* of the screws, not the diameter of the screw head. Hope that helps.

    Patrick G -

    My Torx screws are so locked i can not take it out. The Torx 5 screw driver slips. What can i do? Can i also get new screws later to put in?

    robertverheij - 回复

    Hi,

    If the T5 slips you may have not the correct size ? I have done may speaker, no screw was ever that tight. All 3 screws the same problem ?

    Horst Droege -

    Where can I replace these screws?

    One 5.7 mm T5 Torx screw

    One 6.5 mm T5 Torx screw

    One 3.8 mm T5 Torx screw

    kate Taverna - 回复

    Once again.

    NO NEED NO NEED NO NEED

    davelarose - 回复

  16. MacBook Pro 13" Retina 显示屏  2014年中期  电池更换: 步骤 17 中的图像 1,3 MacBook Pro 13" Retina 显示屏  2014年中期  电池更换: 步骤 17 中的图像 2,3 MacBook Pro 13" Retina 显示屏  2014年中期  电池更换: 步骤 17 中的图像 3,3
    • 向上提起左扬声器,绕着电池取出,以便将其从上盖中取出。

    • 小心不要将扬声器电缆挂在侧面的螺丝孔柱上

    There’s a typo in this section.

    “Lift the corner of the left speaker up and slide it out AROUND the battery to remove it from the upper case.”

    Patrick G - 回复

    If I have a case assembly with battery and trackpad, the above instructions say to skip steps 18 - 44. So, how do the battery and trackpad disconnect otherwise since I need everything else to reassemble. Am I missing something?

    Brett Levine - 回复

    after step 9 what??? i cannot see the next steps….

    kotakidisoklp - 回复

    Réparation faite en moins de 5 minutes chrono (j’avais lu et relu le tuto et l’avais répété autant de fois “dans ma tête” le temps de la réception du haut parleur endommagé). Réparation très facile, faite en moins de 10 minutes tout compris. Vraiment bravo et merci !

    Eric - 回复

    Why does this step exist?

    Unneeded…

    davelarose - 回复

    Removing the speakers is very important if you use solvent — it will damage the speakers and can lead to a horrible buzzing. I failed to understand this and skipped removing the speakers when dissolving the glue and paid the price: speakers that are essentially unusable. (See comment on Step 14).

    John Hawkinson - 回复

  17. MacBook Pro 13" Retina 显示屏  2014年中期  电池更换, 电池: 步骤 18 中的图像 1,1
    • 拆下用于固定电池的上部五个3.7 mm T5 Torx螺丝。

    • 有些型号的macbook pro并没有螺丝,是一种塑料的圆球,不过没关系,在下面基本我们会把黑色框架一起拿下来与电池一起扔掉,拧下来一个螺丝就好了

    In my macbook pro retina, these are some kind of plastic screws. I cannot remove them.

    adriendavernas - 回复

    The plastic screws just need to be pulled out with a spudger/finger and you're good to go. I have the same model, there's also a screw on the power board not mentioned in this guide, takes a T5 screwdriver/bit

    alex - 回复

    Question - when putting the new battery back into the case, do we need to remove old glue/add new glue, use no glue at all, or place the battery in and then reheat to melt the old glue so that it will adhere to the new battery? Thanks!

    chal740 - 回复

    My adhesive didn't have enough tack to hold the battery in. I just reassembled without it and can't hear the batteries moving, but I have the rubber grommets and not screws as MarkB mentioned. Fo future repairers, I'd recommend buying some nonpermanent two sided tape just so you have the option to fasten it in.

    Vince Cipriani -

    I wish they would find another way of securing the battery, this is ridiculous.

    brian whittle - 回复

    On each 'corner' of the frame that surrounds the two centre batteries, rather than 'plastic screws' mentioned by adriendavernas there are 'domed' rubber grommets. These presumably rest against the inside of the bottom cover when it is fitted thus supporting the batteries. As there were no screws underneath in these 4 positions, there is no need to remove these grommets. Agree with alex re: removing the extra T5 screw on the power board.

    MarkB - 回复

    After destroying the adhesive which secures the batteries (bad technique or lack of patience in my effort) what is recommended to secure the batteries when reassembling?

    maxB - 回复

    The iFixit Battery had adhesive pre-applied. plenty of 3M Tissue Tape

    Rhys Goode -

    I only had the single far right screw to remove.

    barak - 回复

    My replacement A1582 battery actually had holes for the screws, though my original A1582 battery only had the 'domed' rubber grommets. Anyways, putting in the OEM A1582 battery without anything in the holes worked ok.

    Srini Seetharaman - 回复

    I wanted to put the rubber grommets on the new battery, so I used tweezers to get them back through the holes on the new battery

    Dallin Christensen - 回复

    My battery replacement came with 4 rubber grommets pre-installed, so perhaps this is no longer necessary

    hamiltont -

    Can somebody tell me what kind of screws I would need to secure the new battery? I would like to put screws into the screwholes left open by those rubber grommets.

    thekryz - 回复

    3,7 mm is the lengh I gues. How thick are they?

    Wanna know how I can search for replacement screws cause I lost the originales.

    Chris Shine - 回复

    My model (late 2013 MacBook Pro Retina), did not have any screws in these locations. They were rubber “feet” in the same locations. They are not attached in any way to the computer. They simply lift up with the plastic battery frame. My replacement batter kit came with the plastic frame - and these rubber “feet” - already installed. No need to save the old ones.

    Ralph Begleiter - 回复

    I echo the others who found that there was only one screw (on the upper right). The remainder were rubber-like “feet”. I removed them, but they don’t seem to fasten anything, so this wasn’t necessary. As Ralph pointed out, the ifixit replacement battery comes with new “feet” installed.

    ellamama - 回复

    Mine only had the far right screw. Since the new battery came with another batch of ridiculous adhesive I didn’t bother fretting about not having the rest of the screws

    Tony Le - 回复

    some models have one screw on the upper right corner of the battery cells (battery circuit board), the rest are rubber feet that doesn’t hold anything. no need to replace them if your replacement battery doesn’t come with them.

    Houmem ZAGHDOUDI - 回复

  18. MacBook Pro 13" Retina 显示屏  2014年中期  电池更换: 步骤 19 中的图像 1,1
    • 在 iFixit 电池更换套装中的液体除胶剂会影响MacBook Pro 屏幕的放反射涂层。

    • 为了保护你的屏幕,请操作时在屏幕和键盘间放置一张铝箔。

    I dont know if this was necessary but i did it anyway?

    Jason Wade - 回复

  19. MacBook Pro 13" Retina 显示屏  2014年中期  电池更换: 步骤 20 中的图像 1,2 MacBook Pro 13" Retina 显示屏  2014年中期  电池更换: 步骤 20 中的图像 2,2
    • 如果您有一个带有液体去胶剂的iFixit电池组合,那么是时候准备好了

    • 或者,如果您使用热iOpener方法,可以跳过以下三个步骤。

    • iFixit脱胶剂含有丙酮,可以刺激皮肤和眼睛。

    • 处理和涂抹去除剂时,请戴上防护眼镜。 (您的套件中包含防护眼镜)

    • 不要戴隐形眼镜保护眼睛。

  20. MacBook Pro 13" Retina 显示屏  2014年中期  电池更换: 步骤 21 中的图像 1,3 MacBook Pro 13" Retina 显示屏  2014年中期  电池更换: 步骤 21 中的图像 2,3 MacBook Pro 13" Retina 显示屏  2014年中期  电池更换: 步骤 21 中的图像 3,3
    • 拔出粘合剂清除剂的黑色橡胶塞。

    • 在剪开口之前,扭一扭或者旋出瓶盖。

    • 这样打开瓶身,使瓶内外气压一致。如果你跳过这一步,在剪开口的时候,粘合剂清除剂可能会意外迸出

    • 用剪刀剪出一个开口

    • 剪在靠近末尾尖端处来让流量变小,从而更好控制清除剂的施用。

    • 在下一步之前,请扭一扭或者拧紧瓶盖。

    Air can tilted upside down to freeze the adhesive works very well also. I just used this method today to pull a battery.

    aadeshina - 回复

    @aadeshina - That’s an excellent suggestion. I took your advice, and tried it with a can of MG Chemicals “403C Super Cold Spray”, which I had on hand for other electronics work. It worked very well — it froze the adhesive to the point where it was quite easy to work the plastic iFixit cards under the batteries, and pry them loose.

    I like this freeze technique much better than the volatile, flammable, risky solvent approach for removing the batteries. I did however find the solvent useful for softening and removing the residual adhesive remaining in the case after the old batteries were removed.

    There are many brands of aerosol freeze sprays available on Amazon, DigiKey, Mouser, etc.

    doubleclutch - 回复

    As above, Another solution to remove the batteries, (Maybe not environmentally friendly): I removed the Logic board and related components to protect them and took a can of compressed air (the kind you buy at office stores for cleaning printers and such) Invert it and use the included straw to direct the propellant (which is extremely cold under the batteries. The adhesive holding the batteries in becomes brittle and u can just pop them out with medium force using a wide putty knife. Took me 3 min to do.

    JVerdonck - 回复

    Before proceeding with the solvent, I suggest considering using dental floss to slice through the old adhesive. (See next step 22 below for more details.) Because the solvent is so dangerous (flammable and caustic), I felt the “dry” use of floss would be better. I assumed that I could revert to the solvent if necessary after trying the floss.

    Ralph Begleiter - 回复

  21. MacBook Pro 13" Retina 显示屏  2014年中期  电池更换: 步骤 22 中的图像 1,1
    • 在最右边的电池单元的边缘均匀涂抹数滴去除剂。

    • 你不必用太多去除剂。瓶内的去除剂含量是移除所有电池所需用量的2倍以上。

    • 等2-3分钟过后,胶水去除剂渗入到电池单元下方,再进行下一步骤。

    • 按需要增加去除剂用量,但一次不要涂抹多于几滴的去除剂。使用过多的去除剂可能会使其渗透到键盘背面,可能会损害键盘。

    I managed to remove the battery without the adhesive by using the thread technique. More info in this video: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=fupkPz55... . Just make sure you have someone to help you and hold the laptop in place for you.

    driesverfaillie - 回复

    Thank you very much! This is an absolute win technique

    Денис Медведев -

    I agree that this worked much better. A few suggestions for others:

    - one type of thread that works very well is fishing line. While you can use monofilament (the clear plastic), if you can get the braided fishing line you will find it is extremely thin and super strong and works very well for this

    - string pulled tightly can cut more than just the adhesive, so be careful what you allow the string to rub against while you are pulling it. I can easily cut into another cable or the battery

    - I found that gloves (not latex, big gardening or construction gloves) helped me use string without needing to go “ow” every few seconds from your hand hurting. I have some gloves with nice grip and good hand protection, I would get the string positioned, put on the gloves, and start pulling. It worked fantastically

    I was able to remove the battery easily with the string method, and i did not remove the speakers to do so. However, when I went to seat the new battery I chose to remove the speakers to make it easier to place

    hamiltont -

    Thanks for the awesome suggestion!

    Tony Le -

    For easier removal I used a combination of heat from a hot water bottle and solvent.

    ip_leyland - 回复

    I used waxed dental floss (not sure whether the ‘waxed’ is important), which worked like a charm. I cuts through the tape much easier than seen in the linked YouTube video linked above. Each battery cell was loosened within 5-10 seconds. It worked amazingly well, and taking out the old batteries proved to be no challenge at all.

    Gerd - 回复

    +1 for dental floss - used it too and managed to cut without any effort.

    JX Low -

    Just finished a fix using floss to remove the battery. It works really well.

    pedroparracho -

    Because I preferred to avoid using the flammable adhesive remover, I tried using the dental floss method. I assumed I could always revert to adhesive remover if the floss didn’t work. The dental floss method worked beautifully. I used a slow, methodical “sawing” motion with the floss, rather than brute force. Although it took some strength, it worked well, and I didn’t need to use the remover.

    Rather than using the plastic cards (though I think they would have worked fine), I used a plastic putty knife (standard, available in any hardware or paint store); this gave me a sturdy handle with which to grip and maneuver the blade. This, too, worked well.

    Ralph Begleiter - 回复

    I used the threading technique as well. I had a spool of pretty tough sewing thread. But it kept breaking, so I tripled it up. Still kept breaking but eventually got through it.

    For the 2 middle cells I had to thread the thread behind the plastic frame thing and both cells, but passed the thread in between the side of the frame and the cell. This was really tough and I broke the thread a few times.

    After I was finished I just cleaned everything up with acetone (aka. the adhesive remove/nail polish).

    Tony Le - 回复

    This is the hardest part of the whole process, if you don’t have any of ifixit tools you can use a hair dryer. Apply heat on the cell (make sur you don’t apply too much heat), flip the laptop apply heat for 20 to 30s on the aluminum side just near the trackpad( depending on which cell you wanna pry open) and use a credit cart gently. this will do.

    Houmem ZAGHDOUDI - 回复

    I used dental floss, but fishing line might be better. The floss kept breaking. I wound the floss around the special screwdrivers which helped with pulling it through. I used Goof Off to remove solvent AFTER I got the batteries out. It worked well. You can get Goof Off at any hardware type store.

    Thirtyeyes - 回复

    I used thin nylon string (~1/16th inch), since dental floss cut into my fingers too much, putting some solvent on the string too, once in position around cell corners, so they worked together. (Applying solvent for 1 minute along edges 1st, as suggested).

    Allan Miller - 回复

    like most people this is definitely the most difficult part. i purchased the kit and thought the adhesive remover + cards were worth the price. i was scared to overuse the remover but i found myself using it more and more the more frustrated i got trying to remove it.

    Jason Wade - 回复

  22. MacBook Pro 13" Retina 显示屏  2014年中期  电池更换: 步骤 23 中的图像 1,2 MacBook Pro 13" Retina 显示屏  2014年中期  电池更换: 步骤 23 中的图像 2,2
    • 如果没有胶水去除剂,用热的iOpener来加热和软化将电池固定到上壳上的一部分粘合剂,然后再仔细撬动。

    • 使用热的iOpener来覆盖最右边两个电池的一半。

    • 大约一分钟后,重新加热iOpener并使其覆盖最右侧电池的另一半。

    I did not have an iOpener. I did not fancy using a heat gun on the batteries either so I used two flat metal spudgers to prise them off the body of the mac book. I hit the spudgers with a small hammer.

    Alex Birkett - 回复

    I used a sock filled with rice and it worked exactly the same. Microwaved it for 2 minutes (hot enough to barely hold) and set it on the batteries as above for 2 minutes.

    Then I reheated it for a minute and opened up the laptop, and slide my DYI iOpener under so it was directly under the batteries (across the trackpad portion of the laptop). This worked great because the heat went straight thru the aluminum and softened the adhesive. I ended up letting the screen hang over the edge of the table while I pried the batteries out.

    barak - 回复

    This heating with the iOpener took me forever. I tried my fair share of heating followed by nudging slowly with a credit card 1 mm at a time. Finally pried it off after 30 mins.

    Srini Seetharaman - 回复

    I used a hot water bottle (for the body). Realized the one with the cloth cover was not doing anything, but had another plastic one. Poured boiling water in, sealed, and did 2-min at a time. A old airline loyalty card worked. Don’t use a credit card as it may deteriorate.

    Daniel - 回复

    I really don’t understand why it is suggested to heat this side of the battery! I used an iOpener on the aluminium case, on the side the battery is actually glued to. You have to open the screen and place the laptop upside down on the edge of a table with the screen hanging down over the edge. This way the heat gets directly to the glued joint between the case and the battery. Worked a treat no solvent needed

    I. Margaronis - 回复

    You and one other guy here, who also made a DIY iOpener with rice and a sock (MacGuyver hack) make a great point here. I remove a lot of Macbook batteries from all models 2013 - 2019 and use these plastic spudgers https://www.aliexpress.com/item/32824615... I just wet the edge of the tool with some ISO and work it under the battery until all the adhesive is freed from battery to case. Usually get them out in around 5 mins

    Peter Newman -

  23. MacBook Pro 13" Retina 显示屏  2014年中期  电池更换: 步骤 24 中的图像 1,2 MacBook Pro 13" Retina 显示屏  2014年中期  电池更换: 步骤 24 中的图像 2,2
    • 在最右侧的电池和上盖之间插进一张塑料卡,将两者之间的粘合剂一分为二。

    • 在此过程中,请注意不要用工具损坏任何电池。 损坏的锂离子电池可能会泄漏危险化学物质和/或着火。 只能使用塑料撬工具

    • 当使用热的iOpener时,如果阻碍感明显,请停止并使用iOpener重新加热有障碍感的部分。

    In addition to using the wheat bag/iOpener to loosen the batteries, I found it useful each time I inserted the plastic card under the batteries to give the card a 'wipe' with isopropyl alcohol to ensure that it didn't stick to the adhesive holding the batteries down. it also presumably eases the glue away from the batteries somewhat.

    MarkB - 回复

    Do the same tools and steps work on a MacBook Pro 15" late 2015 model?

    Sean - 回复

    Heat can be dangerous to Li-Ion batteries, no???

    Alex - 回复

    Excessive heat can be dangerous, but the iOpener is designed to never get hot enough to cause permanent damage. Using a heat gun or hot plate could be dangerous, but the iOpener method is the safest one we know of =)

    Sam Goldheart -

    I found it helpful to use some dental floss to help loosen each cell and then pry the rest off with the card

    Dallin Christensen - 回复

    Is there a substitute for the plastic cards? have all the other supplies I need. Would like to avoid ordering the whole kit for those cards?

    martha - 回复

    A couple old credit cards should work fine.

    Jeff Suovanen -

    My successful alternative to the plastic cards was to use a plastic putty knife, an inexpensive purchase from any pint or hardware store. This tool gave me a strong, grippable handle with which to carefully “work” the plastic blade under the battery cells.

    Ralph Begleiter - 回复

    I have found that different techniques are needed for different parts of the job. The outermost two batteries on both sides can be removed by softening the adhesive as shown with the fluid. The batteries are in a shallow dish so there is less chance of the fluid running everywhere. Just apply sparingly. As Christopher Girke suggested, the middle two are best removed by applying the solvent to the edge of the card. Multiple applications are necessary but this avoids the fluid getting where it should not go. Also it is easier to push in from the sides, not the front as shown in the photo to avoid a lip on the underside of the trackpad.

    johnponter - 回复

  24. MacBook Pro 13" Retina 显示屏  2014年中期  电池更换: 步骤 25 中的图像 1,2 MacBook Pro 13" Retina 显示屏  2014年中期  电池更换: 步骤 25 中的图像 2,2
    • 使用塑料卡从后面撬起最右侧的电池。

  25. MacBook Pro 13" Retina 显示屏  2014年中期  电池更换: 步骤 26 中的图像 1,3 MacBook Pro 13" Retina 显示屏  2014年中期  电池更换: 步骤 26 中的图像 2,3 MacBook Pro 13" Retina 显示屏  2014年中期  电池更换: 步骤 26 中的图像 3,3
    • 与相邻的电池重复此过程:

    • 将少量液体粘合剂去除剂置于电池底下,并等待2-3分钟以使其渗入并软化粘合剂

    • 或者,如果需要,可以使用iOpener重新加热此部分。

    • 在电池和上机壳之间插入一个塑料卡片,慢慢地撬动电池,来分离黏胶。

  26. MacBook Pro 13" Retina 显示屏  2014年中期  电池更换: 步骤 27 中的图像 1,3 MacBook Pro 13" Retina 显示屏  2014年中期  电池更换: 步骤 27 中的图像 2,3 MacBook Pro 13" Retina 显示屏  2014年中期  电池更换: 步骤 27 中的图像 3,3
    • 暂时将您的塑料卡放在两个最右侧的电池单元的下面,以防止它们重新粘到上壳上。

    • 如果使用iOpener,请重新加热并重新使用,这次是最左边的电池。

    • 再次,将iOpener放在每个位置大约一分钟,再加热,以加热最左边的电池的每一半。

  27. MacBook Pro 13" Retina 显示屏  2014年中期  电池更换: 步骤 28 中的图像 1,3 MacBook Pro 13" Retina 显示屏  2014年中期  电池更换: 步骤 28 中的图像 2,3 MacBook Pro 13" Retina 显示屏  2014年中期  电池更换: 步骤 28 中的图像 3,3
    • 重复上述步骤将两个最左侧的电池单元与上壳分开。

    • 请记住将少量的胶水去除剂涂在每个电池底下,然后等待2-3分钟才能渗透并软化粘合剂。

    • 使用第二个塑料卡片来分离电池和上机壳。

  28. MacBook Pro 13" Retina 显示屏  2014年中期  电池更换: 步骤 29 中的图像 1,1
    • 将第二张卡留在两个左侧电池格之间的角落。

    • 在以下步骤中,您可以使用第三张卡或右侧的卡片。 右角粘合剂应该是干燥/冷却的,使得在需要时可以容易地再次拉出电池。

  29. MacBook Pro 13" Retina 显示屏  2014年中期  电池更换: 步骤 30 中的图像 1,2 MacBook Pro 13" Retina 显示屏  2014年中期  电池更换: 步骤 30 中的图像 2,2
    • 为了分离固定最后两个中间电池的粘合剂,将另外少许液体粘合剂去除剂(或你的iOpener)应用于每个电池。

    • 由于触控板位于电池的这个区域下方,因此请谨慎使用粘合剂去除剂。

    • 这可能会将MacBook Pro的一面抬高,以使粘合剂去除剂在电池下面以正确的方向流动。 在工作时,您可以使用书或泡沫块来支起MacBook Pro的一面。

    • 将卡片插入电池和上壳之间约一英寸(2.5厘米),将电池和外壳之间的粘合剂分开。

    My laptop had a strip over these center batteries. I had to remove that before getting the center batteries off.

    Srini Seetharaman - 回复

    My plastic cards were hitting a black trackpad backing. I thought this was the adhesive not coming off. I also didn’t want to harm the battery and didn’t bring the card up enough.

    I found out by going through one of the side batteries, but could have just raised the tip of the card very slightly.

    Cameron Malek - 回复

    I recommend you do not use the liquid adhesive remover for the middle battery pods. These do not rest nicely in their own “tray” like the two parts on the left and right. Consequently, it is very easy to apply too much liquid, allowing the excess to run into your trackpad and logic board. Even though the liquid dries quickly, it does leave behind a little residue. The result from my experience was a slightly faulty connection for my screen, causing random pixel flickers in dark spaces on my screen. Use the floss method found elsewhere online. It is much more difficult to get out but does not risk damaging your computer.

    Andrew Jensen - 回复

    To remove the center batteries carefully, you can add some of the liquid on the tip of the remover card. Put the card at the adhesive and simply wait. It works fine and you wont use too much liquid!

    Christopher Girke - 回复

    I bent the silver plate between the trackpad and the middle battery cells while removing the middle cells, resulting in a sunken trackpad when looking from top. Clicking the trackpad also does not work anymore.

    Tamás Kende - 回复

    Be careful here when you slide any tool under the central cells to pry them open, you could slide it under a sliver plate covering the trackpad electronics, maker sure that your tool is really sliding between the cells and this silver plate, I almost torn this apart, luckily id did not damage the trackpad, dome people reported that it did really damage the trackpad.

    Houmem ZAGHDOUDI - 回复

    1. flatten the battery before you begin the dismantling

    2. remove the 4 side cells completely by cutting the cables with sharp pliers

    3. Apply adhesive remover around the middle batteries, one side at a time

    4. Use the cards to cut the adhesive from around one side at a time , adding more adhesive remover . Do NOT lift the batteries

    5. profit

    Middle batteries have black glue strips strong as welding. lifting the batteries without dissolving these will damage the touch pad back plate it's a thin metal plate

    Charm Abeywardana - 回复

    I used the floss method without solvent. It came apart relatively easily.

    Thirtyeyes - 回复

    My cards were hitting the trackpad plate as well. When I started on the left side, I slid in from the left side (using the card left under the battery in step 29) I pushed the card in from the side enough to work the card into the front side (lifting the plastic bar enough to slide under it.) Also for this entire procedure, applying the solvent to the card itself was the best way to go. Apply to the card, slide it in, let it sit for 2 to 3 minutes, push in a bit, pull out, reapply... rinse repeat.

    toodarkpark - 回复

    Watch out for the trackpad plate under the battery cells. When i put my card underneath the battery cells i was hitting the plate instead of the adhesive. Just angle your card a bit lower to make sure the other end of the card goes above the plate. I suggest wedging a corner of the card in the middle of the two cells. There is a small gap that you should be able to feel. Once the card is in there, just add some adhesive remover onto the card and let it run down the card and under the cells. Spread it a little so it touches the adhesive of both batteries. Then wait and pry. Worked very well for me. Thank you to the comments that came before that got me the idea!

    Alexander - 回复

  30. MacBook Pro 13" Retina 显示屏  2014年中期  电池更换: 步骤 31 中的图像 1,2 MacBook Pro 13" Retina 显示屏  2014年中期  电池更换: 步骤 31 中的图像 2,2
    • 将卡拉出并将其插入右中心电池和上壳之间约一英寸,将电池和外壳之间的粘合剂分开。

  31. MacBook Pro 13" Retina 显示屏  2014年中期  电池更换: 步骤 32 中的图像 1,2 MacBook Pro 13" Retina 显示屏  2014年中期  电池更换: 步骤 32 中的图像 2,2
    • 在两个中心上撬起以分离最后一点粘合剂并将电池从设备中提起。

    I found that gentle application from a heat gun works well enough to soften the adhesive. Use a plastic card to help as you go. Use caution not to over heat anything.

    John Lerefebvre - 回复

    Just like the recommended adhesive remover method, the dental floss method also left some strips of dry adhesive inside the laptop. I used the flat spudger to peel it off. Have patience; it will peel.

    Ralph Begleiter - 回复

    I used GooGone adhesive remover (non-flammable, non-toxic) to loosen remaining adhesive. It worked well, applied with a paper towel. It took several applications to thoroughly clean the computer case. Allow it to dry thoroughly before adhering the replacement battery.

    Ralph Begleiter - 回复

    I just used the remaining iFixit provided glue dissolver and a cotton swab to clean up the remaining glue. It worked just as well as GooGone.

    toodarkpark - 回复

    my advice is not be worried about putting some pressure and ripping that thing out. it as easier to clean up the adhesive after the battery was gone. the kit came with a paper towel and i just dripped the remover all over the case and scrubbed it off with the paper towel.

    Jason Wade - 回复

  32. MacBook Pro 13" Retina 显示屏  2014年中期  电池更换: 步骤 33 中的图像 1,2 MacBook Pro 13" Retina 显示屏  2014年中期  电池更换: 步骤 33 中的图像 2,2
    • 移除电池

    • 安装新电池之前,请从MacBook Pro中取出所有旧胶。

    • 有点运气的话,你可以用手指慢慢拉出每一块粘合剂。

    • 否则,用一点粘合剂去除剂将每个粘合剂部分浸泡2-3分钟,然后用开口或其他工具将其刮掉。 这可能需要相当多的步骤,所以要耐心。

    • 将任何剩余的粘合剂去除剂拖下来,并将您的MacBook Pro放置几分钟即可风干。

    • iFixit套件中包含的更换电池预先安装了粘合剂。 在剥离覆盖胶粘剂的胶片之前,仔细测试电池的配合和对准,然后将每个电池牢固地按入到位。如果更换电池上有原电池上不存在的胶片、衬垫,请将它们移除。

    • 校正 你新安装的电池: 将电池充电至100%并继续充电至少两小时,然后拔掉电源正常使用你的电脑。当出现低电量警告时,保存你的工作并继续使用电脑直至电量低自动休眠。静置至少5小时后一次性充电至100%。

    • 若更换新电池后出现任何不寻常的问题,您可能需要重置你 MacBook Pro 的 SMC.

    RECOMMENDATION: The battery connector and associated screw are critical when considering battery alignment. Also don’t forget the left and right speaker assemblies when aligning the two small outer cells. I didn’t consider these and had issues.

    Also, keep the transparent top film on the battery to keep the cells aligned with respect to each other, and always support all the cells if handling upside down.

    Cameron Malek - 回复

    I agree, if you don’t reinstall the speaker assemblies before installing the battery, they may be impossible to put back in after the battery has adhered

    Dallin Christensen -

    Anyone reconcile the different instructions for batter calibration? Inside battery package is a business card that says drain below 10% then charge uninterrupted to 100%. That is completely different then above: “Calibrate your newly installed battery: charge it to 100%, and keep charging it for at least 2 more hours. Unplug and use it normally to drain the battery. When you see the low battery warning, save your work, and keep your laptop on until it goes to sleep due to low battery. Wait at least 5 hours, then charge your laptop uninterrupted to 100%.”

    ryan - 回复

    The longer calibration method detailed in the guide is correct. I believe the printed cards are due for an update.

    Jeff Suovanen -

    My replacement battery came with a clear plastic protective cover stuck across the top. This protective cover helps keep the four battery cells and their frame aligned properly for fitting into the space. Remove the protective cover (it peels off easily), however, before closing up your computer.

    I agree that test-mounting the new battery, including re-attaching both speakers, BEFORE removing the adhesive covers, is essential for perfect alignment of the batteries… and especially important for alignment of the battery connector and its solo screw.

    Ralph Begleiter - 回复

    Pay attention to how the new battery sits in place before removing the adhesive strips. Although I did this, I didn’t notice that the rubber “feet” on the plastic frame around the middle batteries were very slightly out of alignment. The result was that the case could not be closed tight enough for the screws to fasten properly seal the case. It took a lot of poking around and attention to minor detail in order to get the case to fasten back in place.

    ellamama - 回复

    I followed the tutorial and everything went pretty smooth, started the calibration and got to the step of recharging after waiting 5 hours and my mac wont turn on. the magsafe charger is glowing red/orange but the mac itself is showing no signs of power or charging. Any tips? thanks in advance

    Ronald Francis - 回复

    Removing the adhesive strips of the original battery was relatively easy - compared to removing the strips of the iFixit battery… what took me 1.5 hours. All because the first battery delivered was defective so I had to repeat the replacement. Thanks for the free and quick replacement battery - fair attitude, but that did not saved my time…

    Andras - 回复

    Always amazing when it all works at the end. Combined the battery repair with the fan replacement. Looks like the battery I got from the Bay is an OEM from SMC. All went well. Now I just need to remove the display gate anti-glare with some Listerine or the W5 towelettes from LIDL (if in Europe) and the machine is like new. ;-) Thanks fixit and everyone who contributed and shared their comments.

    Daniel - 回复

    If you have only 1 screw and the 4 rubber grommets, be care about the plastic trim piece on the battery be sure it can be seated properly before removing the adhesive. When you do permanently seat the battery be sure the two bottom holes (where the grommets or screws should be) are properly within the case or you won’t be able to seal the back. I had a bit of an issue but it was easily solved by forcing the plastic opening piece into the case with a screw driver tip. I left the battery without the 4 rubber grommets as they seemed impossible to seat into the holes on the plastic piece of the battery. So far, so good.

    Thirtyeyes - 回复

    I would suggest temporarily reinstalling the battery connector and circuit board screw to ensure proper alignment.

    trebor - 回复

    After finishing and installing the new battery, i’ve started charging ……but the fan is very loud and running fast, and no light indication on my charger saying if it’s charging or not…..(?!). I’ve follow every step and checked twice every manipulation.

    any tips ? Thank you

    bouddha23 - 回复

    Hey Buddha23, I’m having the exact same problem right now. Did you find a way to fix the problem ?

    mathieugenois -

    Thank you for the very detailed step-by-step as well work arounds. The replacement process went smooth- the more time consuming ones were: (1) removing the battery. I found that inserting the plastic card as far as I could initially , then dropping the acetone there made it for easier detachment. (2) a lot of time to clean the gooey stuff , I used the acetone with a small tooth brush and my nails to scrape as indicated.

    Anyway, I am glad I found this site/ provider. My MacBook Pro, 2013 model is working like new . I just arrived from the USA in London - and was considering purchasing a new laptop ( which would be even more costly for me). Big thanks.

    I am also glad I purchased the tools kit , without which, I would not have been able to accomplish the task. I used a brush to clean the dust after I removed the cover. in my case, as I never had done it, had considerable amount of dirty stuff. Needless to say the tool will be used for additional cleaning for this extended life.

    Naly de Carvalho - 回复

    Also had difficulty with the rubber “feet” and the plastic frame around the middle batteries, close to the front edge, since the right one was slightly out of alignment. Had to use a little force to push it toward the MLB and then down. The rubber grommets also wouldn’t fit in the much smaller holes under them. I just removed them since they don’t really serve much purpose (I doubt it will rattle w/o them). Plugging the battery back in also was more difficult than it should be, due to alignment.

    Allan Miller - 回复

    The adhesive on the battery is inadequate in my experience. You may need to purchase double sided spongey tape to add additional adhesion otherwise you will feel and hear the battery flapping in the enclosure. It’s easily enough to slide in the additional tape section afterwards, but worth keeping in mind.

    Jamal - 回复

    When my battery came out, there was a thin metal sheet under only the two center cells that came out with it.

    I was going to check to see if the new battery had that sheet pre-installed. If not, I would remove it and slip it under the new one.

    A week passed between when I removed the dead battery and when I installed the new one. Consequently, I forgot to check for the sheet. My recollection of the cells feeling floppy indicates it probably did not have the sheet, and I should have removed and reinstalled it with the new battery. Can anyone confirm or deny? I can't tell from the image above if it is present in the empty battery bay or not.

    If I have in fact failed to install a needed metal sheet, what are the consequences of it not being there? What is it? A heat shield? The battery is behaving as expected so far, and the track pad seems to be completely normal as well. So, not sure if I made a mistake or if I need to go back in to fix it or not.

    Tim - 回复

    FWIW, I went back to look at the photos at the page above to order the battery. The metal sheet is not there. So it looks like it stuck to my battery coming out instead of sticking to the case, and I should have swapped it. How much trouble am I in?

    I can't see how to add a photo directly. It is also not letting me add a link, for some reason. Not sure if this will work or even is allowed, but this is a photo of the sheet I am talking about on the old battery:

    https://share.icloud.com/photos/078luIxu...

    Tim -

    Two days later and I have not noticed any ill effects, yet.

    Tim -

    this is what i did.

    1. put the battery in and try to screw it all together before pulling the clear cover on the back of the new battery. i removed the top clear sheet because it was easier to work with. but get a feel for how it fits before adhering it to the case.

    2. i also removed the little rubber grommets out of the 4 eyelets. i couldnt make it work with them there. also i wedged the eyelets in between the battery and the case. this was the most annoying thing. the case wouldnt close unless the were in place.

    3. make sure you connect the battery and screw it in as well before pulling the self adhesive on the battery.

    4. i also had to take off the protective cover from step 4 on the new battery and then re-applied it after i was done.

    5. the battery connector was off by like 1/2 in for me. it was easier to plug that in and screw in the board first. then place the battery.

    6. i removed the speakers and put them in last. it easier to do after. i tried doing it before like folks said but no luck for me.

    Jason Wade - 回复

    2 heures au total , passez les étapes où il il faut débrancher les connecteurs de haut parleur , cela ne sert à rien et il y a un risque de les casser

    Zvoul - 回复

结论

要重新组装你的设备,请按照本指南的相反顺序进行操作。

221等其他人完成本指南。

特别感谢这些译者︰

en zh

100%

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46条评论

What is the part number for the mid 2014 13 inch MacBook Pro battery? I see a lot of batteries for sale for the mid 2013 online. Are they compatible?

johnpaeng - 回复

Macbook Pro A1502 not charging after disassembly/assembly (I just wanted to clean the touchpad). MagSafe is orange but the Macbook is not charging - running only when plugged in. MacOS says the battery needs to be replaced - even if it has 82% charged.. I alson tried reset of SMC and PRAM with no effect..

Any advice? Thanks

tommy69 - 回复

Same problem here. Did you find a solution?

Tim Bo -

guys same problem, did you find some solution? @tim_bo @tommy69

Alpay -

Yes, same thing. Had to replace battery and now it’s working.

Check if it’s actually charging. My battery status stated that it needs to be replaced and mac was running on ac instead of battery.

Dominika -

Bonjour, mon problème : mon Mac Book Pro 13" 2014 mes pourcentage descende de 2 pourcents toutes les 2 minutes il tiens a peine 3h a votre avis vaut t'il le coup que je change la batterie ?

Merci.

Stryken Strix - 回复

I would advise working to step six, then skipping to step 16. Take the speaker cables and plastic frame, once the screws are out, and gently fold them back. I used a stiff plastic-about the thickness and size of a credit card to work the glue off from under the battery. No heat or alcohol. All together, from opening to closing, a very simple 15 minute job.

I followed the steps and unfortunately the left speaker socket came off of the control board. Which is why I advise not doing the steps between 6-15. Once the side frames and speaker is off, just fold them back and out of the way.

Brij Verma - 回复

Thank you for the post. I used it for a friend whose battery was not charging. I am fairly familiar with Macs but don't work on them everyday. This guide was very helpful. Now she has a new battery (good seller on eBay...less than $60) and is back up and going. Thank you again for the post, I greatly appreciate it (enough to give a comment...and I usually never give comments).

MacFixer - 回复

I recently completed this guide and everything went very smoothly. I skipped many of the steps leading up to the adhesive removal, and only found it necessary to pull up the left and right speakers. My adhesive remover had evaporated, so I just used some nail polish (100% acetone) and leverage to get the battery cells to come off the case. Be aware that once you stick the batteries in, they will be very difficult to pull back off. I put mine in slightly crooked, but everything powered up fine and my macbook's battery is good as new. My only real struggle was that since I put my batteries in a bit crooked, the case back wouldn't attach flush to the body, so I had to go back in and wiggle the small tubes surrounding the main cell so they would be seated properly.

Thanks for the guide!

David Thibodeaux - 回复

Do you know when the repair kit is going to be available again?

carlos a. - 回复

Piece of cake. Hardest part was disconnecting the speaker connections, because it’s a delicate job and you really don’t know how much stress you can put on the connection until you undo the first one.

Many have suggested not removing the speakers, but I felt it gave me far better access and leverage to pry the battery out.

Gary Gray - 回复

IFIXIT Rocks! Thank you so much for the fantastic guides.

I wish you the greatest success in 2018!

Langston Holland

soundscapes - 回复

I found this guide to be great. My first time replacing a battery on any laptop. The only hard part was of course removing the old battery. I used the hair dryer method I saw on YouTube. Took me a while, over an hour, only because it was my first time and I wanted to make sure I did it right. Everything powered back up and is working normal. I am so glad I found these guides. Thank you so much. Apple store here in Jacksonville, Fl wanted to send my laptop out to a service center for a track pad replacement, if that was what was needed, for up to $400. Meaning, it might not cost that much, but it could, so be prepared. My issue was a trackpad that was not clicking any more. Fiddled with the screw a bit and it still wouldn’t click right, checked the battery cycle and saw that it was at 890 so that needed to be replaced. So got my battery from here and replaced that and fiddled with the same trackpad a bit and it is better, but still won’t click the same as new, but it does work just OK.

judymarie58 - 回复

Should I be worried about ESD? Anti-static Wrist strap? Plug-in the MacBook to have it grounded? Perform the replacement completely naked on hardwood floors in a moist environment? Or just touch a part of the metal laptop frame before I start touching more delicate components?

Dylan Bartley - 回复

@dylanf79 Yes, always have a strategy for protecting against ESD. Modern devices have a lot of ESD protection baked in, and using ESD-safe tools like the ones recommended in this guide goes a long way—but still, better safe than sorry. Use a wrist strap if you like, or just touch a metal part of the chassis frequently during the repair. Remove rings and other metal jewelry from your hands before you start. Definitely avoid environments with a high static charge (performing the repair while shuffling back and forth across a carpeted room not recommended).

Jeff Suovanen -

I gave a friend my old 2014 MacBook Pro and got myself a new one. I loved the machine, but she needed one. A week after she had it, she spilled a glass of water on it. After drying it out, it worked fine, but wouldn’t run from, or charge the battery. Most people suggested it needed an new $700+ logic board, but a few suggested I start with just a battery replacement. So I bought the kit from Ifixit. The kit was complete with everything I needed. The step by step instructions were clear and easy to follow. And best of all the battery replacement alone has the machine working as good as new for only $99.

Thanks Ifixit!!!

Mike D’Anna - 回复

Done, thanks a lot.

We’ll see if my work is valuable in time by now.

SMC/NVRAM initialisation have been necessary as expected, but all works at first try.

Some comments though,

- in my mid 2014 MBP the battery has only pads instead of screws, and the battery provided in the kit needs a bit of tweaking to fit inside, though nothing that hard.

- maybe you should add some advices about having a little magnifying glass with you to disconnect precisely and safely the connectors with the spudger (especially if you’re older than 50 like me :D) and a blower (the kind you use for photography gears for instance) to get off the dust accumulated in time in the inside. A little vacuum can help to, if handled very carefully (to avoid aspiring little screws or parts of course).

- could be a good advice too to tell people to place the sheet of aluminum foil even before the beginning of the work, as it is safer to manipulate the computer while it is still closed.

However excellent “how to” and toolkit.

Thanks again

Pierre Lagarde - 回复

좋은 정본데 실제 하기는 쉽지 않을듯하다.

99불 박에 안하니까 해볼만은 할것 같은데, 뭔 문제점들이 이렇게 많이 나오냐.

teambase - 回复

Thanks for a great guide. iFixit! I second the remarks of Pierre on the pads instead of screws, the magnifying glass (50+ :-). I havent used the removal solution, slightly worried about messing up the plastic parts. With a bit of patience, 2 blunt metal spudgers and a few business cards to prevent re-attachment it worked in my hands.

Jos Joore - 回复

After battery replacement complete. I have an error “WiFi no hardware installed”

blue tooh not available either

What could I have jostled loose? I reset PRAM and SmC. I’ll try doing those things again. But I was pretty confident with my actions while repairing.

Tbt - 回复

Check the AirPort card and antenna connections, and make sure nothing got knocked loose by accident. Reconnect/reseat all the connectors, reboot, and reset NVRAM and SMC again. Good luck!

Jeff Suovanen -

Well it took a few extra days to get my battery due to weather conditions out west but I got it. This is my second foray into the sick-demented-world of the glued in battery. My first was with my 2013 15 inch MacBook Pro and that was a success despite gutting my wee bearin to get it done. The 2014 13 inch MacBook Pro was easy - I wound up carefully prying up the battery and then cleaning up the sticky. It is back together the fan was running full speed. I disconnect and reconnect the battery and that seems to have solved it - guess it did not seat right the first time - said unrecognized battery but now all is well.

abrahambloom - 回复

I am sure glad I have good business insurance. Once these batteries set them selves on FIRE they don’t stop and are as hot as a welding torch and you can’t stop them. I now know why the shipping companies have special requirements for shipping these.

Be careful…. :-)

Rick Wilson - 回复

This is why it’s so important to discharge the battery before you start any repair. Stay safe out there!

Jeff Suovanen -

I used the dental floss method with the iOpener. I removed the cells starting from the top, using the spudger’s tip to push the floss under the cell. Removal of old battery was very fast. I did not remove the speakers at all, since I did not need access to the sides.

Filippo Neri - 回复

Very helpful, I changed the replaced the battery from my mac. Thanks a lot. :)

A precaution though: be extra careful while sticking the new battery the glue is very strong it will not move once it touches the battery compartment . I think i ruined the right speaker because of this. :D. I had to balance 100% of the speaker output to the left speaker because of this.

Kundan Agrawal - 回复

I just went through this process and am appreciative of the guides. I say ‘guides’ (plural) because there are a number of 30-some step procedures for the similar models of Macbook Pro, and they all contain about 25 steps too many. Like many of the others, I did steps 1-4 then carefully freed my discharged battery using a plastic smudger. New one installed without a hitch and my trackpad, which was previously not working properly due to pressure from a swollen battery, is now back to functioning perfectly. Definitely worth the work to get another 2-4 years out of this laptop.

Pro tip: use ‘yes’ to blast your CPU and empty your old battery quickly. In terminal run ‘yes /dev/null’ for each CPU you want to stress so for 4 CPUs you’d do:

yes > /dev/null & yes > /dev/null & yes > /dev/null & yes > /dev/null

If you command-c to quit you’ll only kill one, oddly so after exiting out you’ll need to do this to kill the rest:

killall -HUP yes

strayduck007 - 回复

At 5K cycles my battery was still just above 80% capacity but it was draining when in sleep/powered off.

Bought the replacement battery here, replaced using this guide and everything is fine now! Thanks ifixit community!

Pavlo Sulimenko - 回复

I never received any adhesive remover with my kit purchase. what exactly is the adhesive remover and can I use something similar to take old battery out? please help me

Nelson - 回复

It is acetone. This can be commonly purchased as nail polish remover.

Drew Lyall -

This seems to be a very complicated way of replacing the battery! There are a few videos on YouTube showing how you can use string to remove the battery.

Rodrigo J. Da Silva - 回复

Hi, can you please send a link to those videos?

Michael Goldberg -

Super Beschreibung! Unbedingt an die Anleitung halten. Ich hatte bereits einen gewölbten defekten Akku in der Mitte und nicht die “Karte” bestellt und verwendet. Leider hab ich mit einem Lineal den anderen (nicht defekten) Akku in der Mitte beschädigt, so dass er stark zum Qualmen angefangen hatte. Gott sei Dank hab ich den Akku dann doch noch rausbekommen. Jetzt läuft das Teil wieder wie gewohnt. Danke

Peter - 回复

Worked great! Unfortunately, my “will not boot” issue seems to be with the board and not the battery. Steps were easy; the longest part was prying the old battery off and inserting the new battery. But nothing complicated.

Ben Jiles - 回复

Successful repair! My battery was very well glued so I ended up using a combination of fixit adhesive remover and dental floss. My theory is that you don’t have to use so much of the adhesive remover that way. Thanks a lot for the guide!

kimjohansson - 回复

Everything went smoothly and I was very careful with the adhesive but now some of my buttons stop working like enter and P. Then I followed the instructions that I should let the battery charge and then let it die and then charge it up again. But it will not start!!!!!????? HELP

Indigo Funck - 回复

The battery adhesive is really strong, I’m not sure if the iOpener did anything to help me though.

Kalib Soltesz - 回复

why did not you upload a video?

sahildarisipudi - 回复

Many thanks to IFIXIT for their fabulous instructions. and to the youtube video that follows the IFIXIT instructions AND to the people who recommended the use of floss. I used a heated rice bag under the computer while removing the battery and heavy, waxed thread (sinew). Everything worked terrifically. Took me two hours.

Lynn Thomas - 回复

Instructions were flawless. One of the middle sections took some work to get loose but otherwise went smoothly.

Tom Jackson - 回复

First Repair using iFixit guide and battery set.

Started removing with card but floss was easier.

Removed the speakers to insert battery but did not unplug out of fear of breaking.

Battery connection almost did not line up when putting back together but just needed to put a bit of pressure to line up flush.

iFixit you are amazing.

Nick H - 回复

What is the longevity on this battery pack?

Thanks!

Fernando Vargas - 回复

Maybe to late to answer, but mine has been better than the original all the way since I changed it in May 2018.

Pierre Lagarde -

Great tutorial, exactly what I need. You just need to be patient, it’s not really difficult. Thanks !

Ivan Corbet - 回复

Yes, one CAN take too much precautions, as shown in this guide. I get it, there are people out there who manage to botch even the simplest of tasks, but I hope they're not the target here.

Instructions:

1) drain old battery.

- No, seriously, drain it to 0%. Start up in Recovery mode and run "yes > /dev/null" in 8 Terminal windows until the Mac shuts down.

- A charged battery WILL catch fire if punctured or if you put force on it. Don't be stupid, drain it.

2) open case.

3) disconnect battery and undo the screw to the side of the power board.

4) pour glue remover (IPA 70%, Acetone 30%) on the tip of a plastic card.

5) insert card under battery #2, slowly, melting the glue. Then #1, then proceed to the right.

6) remove any old glue from the case.

7) peel off the film from the new battery and weaken the glue by touching it with your hands or a piece of cloth.

8) cut the stupid rubber nipples.

9) visually align the connector and power board.

10) drop the battery in place and adjust if necessary.

Done.

il biggo - 回复

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