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使用本指南可以借助iFixit电池更换套件从MacBook Pro中安全地取出内置电池。 套件中的粘合剂去除剂将溶解固定电池的粘合剂,使您可以轻松地将其移除。

Apple 在2019年6月对这款型号的电池进行召回 ——所以在更换电池之前,你可以检查是否有资格免费从 Apple 获得替代品

“iFixit粘合剂去除剂是高度易燃的。''请'在通风良好的地方进行此项操作。 在这个过程中不要在明火附近抽烟或工作。

为了你的安全,在开始此指南之前,请先将MacBook Pro的电池电量耗尽。如果意外刺破,带电的锂离子电池可能会造成危险且无法控制的火灾。如果你的电池已经鼓包,请参考此指南

注意:用于溶解电池粘合剂的溶剂会在你的扬声器与塑料扬声器音箱接触时损坏。 所以,本指南指导你在继续使用电池之前取下扬声器。移除扬声器还需要移除其他几个组件,包括主板。

如果你使用旧式iFixit 胶水去除剂,即单独的瓶子和注射器(不再销售),点击这里使用一个稍微不同的教程。

  1. 取出固定Macbook Pro底壳的P5梅花螺丝,如下:
    • 取出固定Macbook Pro底壳的P5梅花螺丝,如下:

    • 8颗3.1mm螺丝

    • 两颗2.3mm螺丝

    The number of screws listed here is wrong on my model. I had four of the smaller size.

    anonymous 1286 - 回复

    Just to add to my comment above (I can't edit it because it's anonymous), my MacBook Pro is a mid-2015 15in model 2.8GHz (A1398; EMC2881). For the bottom case it uses six 3.1mm screws, and four 2.3mm screws at the clutch/hinge side of the MacBook Pro. I tried using a 3.1mm screw at the clutch/hinge end, as described in the main article, and they don't fit. It has to be four 2.3mm screws.

    anonymous 1286 - 回复

    WAIT!.. STOP.

    iFixit has had a slew of defective batteries that they will require you take out and return (after gluing them in). Search on: "Battery percentage suddenly drops" here on this site. This process is 50 steps to get the new battery in, and another 50 to put all the parts back. For $199, Apple will do the whole repair, warranty it, and also replace the trackpad and the keyboard (because it's easier for THEM to do).

    Ifixit WILL NOT stand behind defective batteries unless you spend another 4-6 hours swapping in a new one. NOT. WORTH. IT. See posts here (Battery percentage suddenly drops from ~60% to 7%) on frustrated customer’s multiple attempts and class-action lawsuits.

    MFMauceri - 回复

    Thank you for this info, you’ve probably saved a lot of time, and hassle (myself included, if I end up going through with this repair).

    Andrew Poindexter -

    The instructions below have you basically taking ALL of the guts out of case. I’ve been doing my own apple repairs since before ifixit was a thing and this one is a handful. My battery was swelling and I wanted to remove it before it burst or bent the case so I took it out without having a replacement and it occurs to me that aside from using the solvent (liquid) to remove the adhesive, you could probably do this only taking the trackpad ribbon out. I have mine reassembled now and will research the best battery to buy but I think installation will take about 5 minutes. See if you can slip a plastic gift card under the battery and wag/saw the adhesive out without the solvent before you go through all of this. It might work. Note, don’t bend or put too much stress on the battery and certainly don’t puncture it…

    br1ansk - 回复

    I’m having a problem trying to get the screws off. I have a set of pentalobe screwdriver set. I found one screwdriver that fits perfectly on one set of screws, but I am unable to unscrew it. I tried using some force pushing the screwdriver into the screw, but nothing happens. Any suggestions?

    henry_k_wong - 回复

  2. 从屏幕转轴一侧的边缘抬起,把底部盖板从MacBook Pro上抬起来。 从屏幕转轴一侧的边缘抬起,把底部盖板从MacBook Pro上抬起来。
    • 从屏幕转轴一侧的边缘抬起,把底部盖板从MacBook Pro上抬起来。

  3. 底部盖板上有两个塑料夹子(红色),在上面的箱子里卡扣(橙色)可以装进塑料夹子。 在重新组装过程中,轻轻地将盖板的中心推到它的两个塑料夹上。 在重新组装过程中,轻轻地将盖板的中心推到它的两个塑料夹上。
    • 底部盖板上有两个塑料夹子(红色),在上面的箱子里卡扣(橙色)可以装进塑料夹子。

    • 在重新组装过程中,轻轻地将盖板的中心推到它的两个塑料夹上。

    pretty hard to put it back, so I just remove the clips on the upper case....

    jamiegan835 - 回复

    The trick to putting it back on is to guide your fingers to the same level as the clips, and then when you put the case down move your hand from the left side of the case to the right side of the case; applying pressure when you reach the area where the clips are.

    Aaron Freidus - 回复

  4. 把电池连接器上的标签撕掉。
    • 把电池连接器上的标签撕掉。

    You only need to remove the tape to the edge of the flap. This is enough to be able to pry the battery connector up.

    Aaron Freidus - 回复

    +1 to above comment

    Andrew Saunders - 回复

    Note that the photo is taken from the hinge side - the other way to the photo in step 3

    Toby Thurston - 回复

    I chanced it, didnt disconnect the battery and all is well even after giving the insides a good vacuuming before changing the SSD.

    Dermot O Logical - 回复

  5. 在逻辑板上轻轻抬起电池连接器的每一端,将连接器从其插座上撬开。 将连接器弯曲,确保电池连接器不意外地与逻辑板接触。 将连接器弯曲,确保电池连接器不意外地与逻辑板接触。
    • 在逻辑板上轻轻抬起电池连接器的每一端,将连接器从其插座上撬开。

    • 将连接器弯曲,确保电池连接器不意外地与逻辑板接触。

    why is this necessary to remove a hard drive?

    Lawtay - 回复

    @lawrencetaylor On any electronics repair, you need to disconnect all sources of power before you start. It’s a basic safety precaution and also removes the risk of accidentally shorting a connection somewhere (which can potentially kill your MacBook).

    Jeff Suovanen -

    I chanced it, didnt disconnect the battery and all is well even after giving the insides a good vacuuming before changing the SSD.

    Dermot O Logical - 回复

    Picture doesn’t match the computer. Hard to tell which connector to disconnect

    James Mitchell - 回复

    Hi James, are you sure you have the correct guide for your machine? Try using our MacBook Identification tool.

    Sam Goldheart -

    Habe den Akkustecker beim putzen abgemacht um keinen Stromschlag zu kriegen, jetzt wieder eingebaut. Nun habe ich folgendes Problem: Akku wird geladen, aber steigt niemals ueber % und manchmal geht er trotz Anschluss an das Stromnetz einfach aus. Hat da jemand eine Idee?

    paul - 回复

    I used the identification tool and can confirm what James is seeing. The picture doesn’t match for this step. There is no piece with visible holes punched in it.

    Joshua McFarland - 回复

    There is an extra piece of plastic on the connector, you might want to peel that off too. It’s not in the pictures.

    Ellie B -

  6. 将三个AirPort天线电缆连接器从AirPort板上的插座上断开,然后将其弯曲并放置一边。 小心撬动连接器,而不是电缆或插座。 小心撬动连接器,而不是电缆或插座。
    • 将三个AirPort天线电缆连接器从AirPort板上的插座上断开,然后将其弯曲并放置一边。

    • 小心撬动连接器,而不是电缆或插座。

    I seriously hate this step - it is pretty much the only difficult part of the job. Reconnecting these microscopic stinkin connectors is a monumental PITA…

    T Rowe - 回复

    Guys, be very carefull with these 3 cables.. If you are not going to replace the whole display, just be careful as much as possible.

    Adi - 回复

    When reconnecting these tiny wires, use one hand to guide and align the connector by holding the wire and the other hand to press them down with a flat end of a spudger. Spent 10 minutes figuring it out and connecting the first one, then only a few seconds on both of the remaining connectors :)

    If you try to do this with one hand, it’s extremely easy to move them out of the alignment while pressing them down.

    Aivar Kavshevich - 回复

    I think there is a better way - where you disconnect the wifi card using the black screw in middle of wire 2 and 3 first and then untie these connectors. I pryed away the connectors but the sockets on the card were all damaged during the process. Ended up having to get a replacement card before reassembly could be completed. So again there are 2 components - connectors which are being pryed away and really fine and delicate socket. Very easy to damage them. Better to take the card off and delicately peel these connectors off. I would not recommend using these pry sticks mentioned here for that.

    Abhishek Kathuria - 回复

    ATTENTION ! Cette étape est grandement sous-estimée, aucune mention de la délicatesse de l’opération contrairement à d’autres étapes bien plus facile… De plus, il semble possible de sauter cette étape en déconnectant seulement la carte comme expliquer sur la version anglophone du guide !!! J’ai endommagé le connecteur le plus proche du ventilateur, pour rien… Heureusement, tout semble fonctionner correctement…

    Antochny - 回复

    AirPort/Camera Cables? not AirPort/Bluetooth Cables?

    Marco Cappelli - 回复

    Je confirme qu’il est plus simple de déconnecter la carte (enlever la vis, et tirer délicatement sur la carte) que d’enlever les trois cables / I confirm that it’s a lot easier to disconnect the Airport card (just remove the screw and pull gently) than removing those 3 wires.

    Maen J - 回复

    Agreed with Abhishek - removing the wifi card first makes this much easier.

    Tammer Saleh - 回复

    How do you know which is which when reassembling?

    Bryan Province - 回复

    I highly suggest against disconnecting these wires. It's very likely that you will damage either sockets or wires. Do as others recommend, just remove the network card. Prying tool is not good for this step. I broke 1 out of 3 sockets. I wish I read all the comments before operating. Now I gotta get another card :(

    Adomas Aleknavičius - 回复

    what size driver does this require? My pentalobe doesnt seem to be the right size.

    jack32878 -

    As many have mentioned, don’t disconnect the wires is reallly a pain in the a… to connect them, it wont be easy and will take a lot of patience….. Better disconnect the card and carefully leave the wires connected.

    ilukewitschalejandro - 回复

    Just finished replacing both speakers using this guide. VERY good. I did not remove the individual wires - just removed the card with wires attached. Seemed to be the safer, easier way to go.

    Dwight Vaughn - 回复

    Just finished replacing my display LVDS Cable with this guide and another one; awesome. I as well just removed the card and left the wires attached. Much easier.

    Alex DeLeon - 回复

    Can anyone explain how to remove the card instead of wires? About to try that out instead, but am going in blind! I see the screw holding the card down, just not sure what to do next…

    Peter Scalzitti IV - 回复

    This is one of those skills that you get experience right after you need it.

    I learned these connectors doing RF work. They require a deft touch. Put slight downward pressure while you work to align the pair. Once you get the hang of it, you will know when they are aligned, and they will go back together with a light push and make a slight snap.

    If they don’t immediately pop together with a light push, they’re not aligned quite right. Don’t force them, they have a very limited number of make/break cycles.

    The cables should retain their bent shape well enough to show where each goes. One it too short to go too far off, and one is too long to fit to the nearest connection.

    prreitz - 回复

  7. 剥下风扇上的右橡胶盖并将其折叠放置一边。 剥下风扇上的右橡胶盖并将其折叠放置一边。
    • 剥下风扇上的右橡胶盖并将其折叠放置一边。

  8. 使用挑线器的尖端将相机电缆连接器从逻辑板上的插槽中推出。 确保将电路板平行推入电路板,首先推动一侧,然后另一侧将连接器“推出”插座。
    • 使用挑线器的尖端将相机电缆连接器从逻辑板上的插槽中推出。

    • 确保将电路板平行推入电路板,首先推动一侧,然后另一侧将连接器“推出”插座。

    This connector is very fragile, the left edge of mine cracked off and ended up in the socket. And during figuring that out the cable or the socket appears to have got damaged because “no camera detected”.

    Malcolm Hall - 回复

    All connectors are incredibly fragile. I damaged the fan connector locking latch just by trying to lock it back in place. Fortunately the cable, by the way it inserts, it’s being pushed in rather than pulled on, however, I do have concerns with it not making a proper connection. Malcolm, I am wondering how you fixed your damaged connector?

    Robert Habib - 回复

  9. 用手指将AirPort /相机电缆从风扇上拔下。 电缆粘在风扇上,小心将其剥离,以免损坏风扇。 小心地将电缆从塑料电缆导轨上卸下。
    • 用手指将AirPort /相机电缆从风扇上拔下。

    • 电缆粘在风扇上,小心将其剥离,以免损坏风扇。

    • 小心地将电缆从塑料电缆导轨上卸下。

    • 在重新组装时,这些电缆上仍应有足够的粘合剂将其粘到风扇上。

    Leave them attached. Remove the single screw holding the board in place and gently wiggle the airport card out (see Airport card removal instructions). Fold the card up and towards the rear of the computer. Now follow the instructions for the camera cable removal. Lift the airport card with the three leads attached and the camera cable up and fold the, to the outside of the case.

    George R. O'Connor - 回复

  10. 卸掉固定住I/O板的4个2.2mm T5 内梅花头螺丝钉。
    • 卸掉固定住I/O板的4个2.2mm T5 内梅花头螺丝钉。

    why is this needed for upper assembly replacement?

    Andrew Chu - 回复

  11. 卸掉左连接器的挡板。 用撬棒的平头从主板槽上翘起I/O板排线的左端。
    • 卸掉左连接器的挡板。

    • 用撬棒的平头从主板槽上翘起I/O板排线的左端。

  12. 卸掉右连接器的挡板。 用撬棒的平头从主板槽上翘起I/O板排线的右端。
    • 卸掉右连接器的挡板。

    • 用撬棒的平头从主板槽上翘起I/O板排线的右端。

    When re-assembling, the right connector cover is the smaller of the two.

    richardgraham_2000 - 回复

  13. I/O板排线是用胶粘在风扇上的,把它剥开。
    • I/O板排线是用胶粘在风扇上的,把它剥开。

    • 卸掉排线。

    Cable need not be removed.

    mayer - 回复

    Why is this suddenly the Top I/O cable rather than just the I/O cable? This may seem trivial, but the change in terminology suggests its not the cable we just unfastened and to look for another one.

    prreitz - 回复

  14. 拆掉下列将右风扇固定在主板上的螺丝。
    • 拆掉下列将右风扇固定在主板上的螺丝。

    • 一颗5.0mm T5 内梅花头螺丝,带2.0mm内柱。

    • 一颗4.0mm T5 内梅花头螺丝,宽螺丝头。

    • 一颗4.4mm T5 内梅花头螺丝。

  15. 用撬棒的尖头翻起右风扇插槽上的卡扣。 确定你是在挑卡扣,而不是插槽本身。
    • 用撬棒的尖头翻起右风扇插槽上的卡扣。

    • 确定你是在挑卡扣,而不是插槽本身。

    This step needs a larger picture to show the retaining flap hinged upward. This photo doesn’t convey what the words say.

    prreitz - 回复

  16. 抬起风扇并轻轻地将其移向MacBook的后部边缘,以便将风扇排线拉出插槽。 风扇排线有可能是用胶粘在主板上的——为防扯断排线,在抬起风扇的时候轻轻地剥离排线。
    • 抬起风扇并轻轻地将其移向MacBook的后部边缘,以便将风扇排线拉出插槽。

    • 风扇排线有可能是用胶粘在主板上的——为防扯断排线,在抬起风扇的时候轻轻地剥离排线。

    • 卸掉风扇。

    I recommend pushing the cable connector away with a spudger instead of using the fan to pull it away…there seems to be too much stress put on the cable using the method proposed here.

    Bill Klemme - 回复

  17. 揭开左侧风扇上的橡胶盖并把它翻到一边。 揭开左侧风扇上的橡胶盖并把它翻到一边。
    • 揭开左侧风扇上的橡胶盖并把它翻到一边。

  18. 拆掉下列将左风扇固定在主板上的螺丝。
    • 拆掉下列将左风扇固定在主板上的螺丝。

    • 一颗5.0mm T5 内梅花头螺丝,带2.0mm内柱。

    • 一颗4.0mm T5 内梅花头螺丝,宽螺丝头。

    • 一颗4.4mm T5 内梅花头螺丝。

  19. 用撬棒的尖头将左风扇插槽上的卡扣翻起。 确定你是在挑卡扣,而不是插槽本身。
    • 用撬棒的尖头将左风扇插槽上的卡扣翻起。

    • 确定你是在挑卡扣,而不是插槽本身。

    All connectors are incredibly fragile. I didn’t have any problem unlocking the cable but rather after finishing the job and closing the hinged retaining flap. The hinged flap wiggles, it moves and wasn’t 100% properly aligned. It’s not like it was badly out of place and I tried to force it, no, on the contrary, I was being extremely delicate, but it wiggles in place so so very slightly since it’s not a real hinge. You need to make sure it hasn’t moved before applying any pressure trying to close it or IT WILL break off. It’s frustrating that I damaged the fan connector, not by prying on the socket, but in the last step of just locking the latch.

    Fortunately the cable, by the way it inserts, it’s being pushed in rather than pulled on, however, I do have concerns with it maybe not making a proper connection. I am now wondering how other’s have fixed your damaged connectors? As I mentioned at the beginning, I’m sure I’m not the first since all the connectors are incredibly fragile. Any feedback?

    Robert Habib - 回复

  20. 抬起风扇并轻轻地将其移向MacBook的后部边缘,以便将风扇排线拉出其插槽。 风扇排线有可能是用胶粘在主板上的——为防扯断排线,在抬起风扇时轻轻地将排线剥离。
    • 抬起风扇并轻轻地将其移向MacBook的后部边缘,以便将风扇排线拉出其插槽。

    • 风扇排线有可能是用胶粘在主板上的——为防扯断排线,在抬起风扇时轻轻地将排线剥离。

    • 卸掉风扇。

    Same comment as on step 16…use spudger.

    Bill Klemme - 回复

  21. 拆掉这将SSD固定在主板上的单独一颗2.9mm T5 内梅花头螺丝。
    • 拆掉这将SSD固定在主板上的单独一颗2.9mm T5 内梅花头螺丝。

  22. 将SSD的左端抬起足够高度以便直接越过它后面的扬声器。 不要把SSD抬的太高,否则你可能弄伤金手指或是插槽。 将SSD笔直地从主板插槽上抽出。
    • 将SSD的左端抬起足够高度以便直接越过它后面的扬声器。

    • 不要把SSD抬的太高,否则你可能弄伤金手指或是插槽。

    • 将SSD笔直地从主板插槽上抽出。

  23. 用撬棒的尖头挑起I/O板连接线的卡扣。 把撬棒翻过来,用平头把I/O排线推出连接器。 把卡扣翻到一个合适的角度再把排线推出连接器。这有助于防止对排线或者连接器接头造成意外伤害。
    • 用撬棒的尖头挑起I/O板连接线的卡扣。

    • 把撬棒翻过来,用平头把I/O排线推出连接器。

    • 把卡扣翻到一个合适的角度再把排线推出连接器。这有助于防止对排线或者连接器接头造成意外伤害。

    Oh, you rotated the computer while I wasn’t watching.

    prreitz - 回复

  24. 从I/O板上拆掉两颗3.1mm T5内梅花头螺丝。
    • 从I/O板上拆掉两颗3.1mm T5内梅花头螺丝。

    Remove the screw holding the heat pipe, it blocks the I/O board from coming out

    Gert Cuykens - 回复

    Also make sure the I/O cable removed on previous step is out of the way before screwing this down

    Keith Kern - 回复

  25. 稍微抬起I/O板的内边缘,并将其拉向MacBook的中心,离开机体的边缘。 卸掉I/O板。
    • 稍微抬起I/O板的内边缘,并将其拉向MacBook的中心,离开机体的边缘。

    • 卸掉I/O板。

  26. 打开所有标签

    Mac的RAM升级套装

    购买套装

    所有选项卡都有足够的 RAM

    购买套装
  27. 拆掉两颗将触摸板排线接口挡板固定在主板上的2.2mm T5内梅花头螺丝。 卸掉档板。
    • 拆掉两颗将触摸板排线接口挡板固定在主板上的2.2mm T5内梅花头螺丝。

    • 卸掉档板。

  28. 用撬棒的平头断开触摸板排线与主板插槽的连接。 有一种简单的方法将排线插头从这类插槽中撬开,就是把撬棒伸到插头下轻轻扭动。 小心,只需要撬插头,别撬了主板上的插槽。
    • 用撬棒的平头断开触摸板排线与主板插槽的连接。

    • 有一种简单的方法将排线插头从这类插槽中撬开,就是把撬棒伸到插头下轻轻扭动。

    • 小心,只需要撬插头,别撬了主板上的插槽。

  29. 摘下散热铁一端螺丝上的橡胶帽。
    • 摘下散热铁一端螺丝上的橡胶帽。

  30. 拆掉下列6颗固定主板的螺丝。
    • 拆掉下列6颗固定主板的螺丝。

    • 一颗3.8mm T5 内梅花头螺丝。

    • 两颗5.7mm T5 内梅花头螺丝。

    • 一颗5.6mm T5 内梅花头螺丝。

    • 一颗2.6mm T5 内梅花头螺丝。

    • 一颗3.2mm T5 内梅花头螺丝。

    • 若要重新组装,先拧上这6颗螺丝,但不要把它们拧紧。移动主板让所有螺丝都正对螺丝口,并且保证所有侧边接口都与机身对应开口对齐。然后再拧紧螺丝。

    Top left and right screw (red, yellow) are silver, the other ones black.

    Peter G - 回复

    Screw with blue circle was in a slightly different position on my logic board; the gold plating surrounding it is the giveaway.

    prreitz - 回复

  31. 以下步骤会详细说明如何断开这6个插头。一定要认真阅读,因为这些插头各有不同而拆法不一。
    • 以下步骤会详细说明如何断开这6个插头。一定要认真阅读,因为这些插头各有不同而拆法不一。

    • 麦克风排线

    • 左扬声器排线

    • 键盘数据排线

    • 右扬声器排线

    • 键盘背光排线

    • 显示器排线

    • 重新组装的时候,要检查这些插头是不是都插了,是不是都插牢固了。

  32. 用撬棒的尖头挑起麦克风排线插槽处的卡扣。 将麦克风排线以平行于主板的方向拉出插槽。 将麦克风排线以平行于主板的方向拉出插槽。
    • 用撬棒的尖头挑起麦克风排线插槽处的卡扣。

    • 将麦克风排线以平行于主板的方向拉出插槽。

  33. 用撬棒的平头将左扬声器的插头从主板的插槽中撬起。 确保你撬的是插头而不是主板上的插槽。要是撬了插槽你有可能把它从主板上撬下来。 轻轻地把排线弯向一边以便稍后取出主板。
    • 用撬棒的平头将左扬声器的插头从主板的插槽中撬起。

    • 确保你撬的是插头而不是主板上的插槽。要是撬了插槽你有可能把它从主板上撬下来。

    • 轻轻地把排线弯向一边以便稍后取出主板。

  34. 剥开粘在键盘数据排线插头上的胶带。 剥开粘在键盘数据排线插头上的胶带。
    • 剥开粘在键盘数据排线插头上的胶带。

  35. 用撬棒的尖头挑起键盘数据排线ZIF插槽上的卡扣。 确保你撬的是卡扣,而不是插槽本身。 把键盘数据排线拉出它的ZIF插槽。确保你拉它的时候是平行于主板的,而不是直直地往上拉。
    • 用撬棒的尖头挑起键盘数据排线ZIF插槽上的卡扣。

    • 确保你撬的是卡扣,而不是插槽本身。

    • 把键盘数据排线拉出它的ZIF插槽。确保你拉它的时候是平行于主板的,而不是直直地往上拉。

    The retaining flap broke on me during reassembly. I was careful, but it kind of got stuck. Pay extra attention and if it doesn’t give, don’t force it.

    vincentdrummer - 回复

    The last picture doesn’t show it but my cable had blue plastic material on both top and bottom, which I had not noticed during disassembly. It slid in nicely but now not sure if it is an insulating material of some kind that should have been set aside?

    Bill Klemme - 回复

    I can confirm blue colour of cable tip.

    Mighty Sashiman -

  36. 用撬棒的尖头把右扬声器插头从主板插槽中撬出。 确保你撬的是插头而不是主板上的插槽。要是撬了插槽你有可能把它从主板上撬下来。 轻轻地把排线弯向一边以便稍后取下主板。
    • 用撬棒的尖头把右扬声器插头从主板插槽中撬出。

    • 确保你撬的是插头而不是主板上的插槽。要是撬了插槽你有可能把它从主板上撬下来。

    • 轻轻地把排线弯向一边以便稍后取下主板。

    Note that the connector sits inside of a little “box” which is the socket. Don’t try to pry up underneath that but stay under where the wires are connected. The pictures are good, and you can see the “box” in the last picture.

    Bill Klemme - 回复

  37. 用撬棒的尖头把键盘背光插头从它在主板上的插槽中撬起。 用撬棒的尖头把键盘背光插头从它在主板上的插槽中撬起。
    • 用撬棒的尖头把键盘背光插头从它在主板上的插槽中撬起。

    On reassembly it would be great to have some tips on how to properly locate this connector…it’s kind of fussy.

    Bill Klemme - 回复

  38. 用撬棒的尖头把显示器数据排线锁挑开并把它转向电脑的MagSafe2电源插口方向。 用撬棒的尖头把显示器数据排线锁挑开并把它转向电脑的MagSafe2电源插口方向。
    • 用撬棒的尖头把显示器数据排线锁挑开并把它转向电脑的MagSafe2电源插口方向。

    +(mit dem schwarzen Klebeband zusammen)

    Verwende die Spitze eines Spudgers, um den Verschluss des Displaydatenkabels nach oben zu klappen (mit dem schwarzen Klebeband zusammen) und ihn in Richtung MagSafe 2-Powerport zu drehen.

    Mihály Plajner - 回复

    My mid-2015 has a flexible plastic tape on the cable lock bar, pulling the tape up with tweezers easily rotated the locking bar.

    prreitz - 回复

  39. 把显示器数据排线从它在主板上的插槽中直拉出来。 不要把显示器数据排线向上抬,因为它的插槽非常纤细。拉排线的时候要平行于主板拉。 不要用你的手指或其他任何工具触碰数据插头或其插槽,因为你可能会在针脚上留下油渍或是弄伤它。
    • 把显示器数据排线从它在主板上的插槽中直拉出来。

    • 不要把显示器数据排线向上抬,因为它的插槽非常纤细。拉排线的时候要平行于主板拉。

    • 不要用你的手指或其他任何工具触碰数据插头或其插槽,因为你可能会在针脚上留下油渍或是弄伤它。

    • 轻轻地把显示器数据排线弯向屏轴方向,以便拆掉MagSafe2板上的螺丝。

    The wording of the instruction: “Pull the display data cable STRAIGHT OUT of its socket on the logic board” could lead to errors. It almost happened to me.

    Instead you should word it: “Pull the display data cable parallel to the face of the logic board being careful to keep it straight and NOT LIFT UP on the cable”.

    I realize you mention it later in the warning immediately below, however, by first saying “pull the cable straight out” leads to confusion and could lead the user to attempt to interpret “PULL STRAIGHT OUT” as “PULL UP” unsuccesfully only to later notice, maybe after breaking it, that there was a warning.

    Wording it properly the first time will make the warning unnecessary.

    Robert Habib - 回复

    Agree with Robert. Suggest “SLIDE the display cable to the right, out of its socket…” would be less misleading.

    prreitz - 回复

  40. 从MagSafe2板上拆掉两颗4.0mm T5 内梅花头螺丝。
    • 从MagSafe2板上拆掉两颗4.0mm T5 内梅花头螺丝。

  41. 从机身上将整个主板组件抬起并抽出。 当你要重新组装的时候,确保每一个插口都与它们在机身上的开口对齐。 当你要重新组装的时候,确保每一个插口都与它们在机身上的开口对齐。
    • 从机身上将整个主板组件抬起并抽出。

    • 当你要重新组装的时候,确保每一个插口都与它们在机身上的开口对齐。

    When reassembling, be careful not to leave any cables (such as keyboard backlight connector, step 36) under the board.

    Andrey Pirozhenko - 回复

    Also, make sure to align the right (and left) I/O properly, making sure the tabs on each port are underneath the lip of the aluminum frame. In my case, I couldn’t push the logic board far enough to align the screws until I had done this.

    Alek Curless - 回复

    Yes. This step is crucial. Thanks for pointing it out!

    jonvdez -

    I was struggling to align it and was beginning to get frustrated. I had to look back at photos to make sure the tabs had to go under the lip of the aluminum frame. Unfortunately I read your comment after the fact. Thank you.

    Robert Habib -

  42. 拆掉以下这些将左侧扬声器固定在上部机身的螺丝:
    • 拆掉以下这些将左侧扬声器固定在上部机身的螺丝:

    • 2.7mm T5 内梅花头螺丝

    • 6.9mm T5 内梅花头螺丝

    • 5.6mm T5 内梅花头螺丝

  43. 轻轻地从上部机身的铝制侧边卡中将左侧扬声器拉出来。 轻轻地从上部机身的铝制侧边卡中将左侧扬声器拉出来。
    • 轻轻地从上部机身的铝制侧边卡中将左侧扬声器拉出来。

  44. 拆掉以下这些将右侧扬声器固定在机身上的螺丝:
    • 拆掉以下这些将右侧扬声器固定在机身上的螺丝:

    • 2.7mm T5 内梅花头螺丝

    • 6.9mm T5 内梅花头螺丝

    • 5.6mm T5 内梅花头螺丝

  45. 右侧扬声器的排线轻轻地粘在上部机身上。 挑开右侧扬声器排线,让它与上部机身分离。
    • 右侧扬声器的排线轻轻地粘在上部机身上。

    • 挑开右侧扬声器排线,让它与上部机身分离。

    • 在重新组装的时候,让折弯的排线紧贴电池上面的铝制框架。

    Small comment on starting the reassembly, make sure to check picture on step 30 so that all connectors are exposed and not covered by logic board, I wasted some time putting the logic board back in and then having to remove it again to expose some of the connectors I missed.

    Rafael Lüder - 回复

    note that it’s possible (even easy) to destroy the right speaker during installation - there’s a metal boss sticking up (when case is upside down) that will hit the speaker.

    mine came back from apple damaged last week and I just swapped that speaker to fix it.

    keen - 回复

  46. 轻轻地从上部机身的铝制侧边卡中将右侧扬声器拉出来。 轻轻地从上部机身的铝制侧边卡中将右侧扬声器拉出来。
    • 轻轻地从上部机身的铝制侧边卡中将右侧扬声器拉出来。

  47. 揭开MacBook Pro前端附近覆盖触控板连接器带状电缆的胶带。 揭开MacBook Pro前端附近覆盖触控板连接器带状电缆的胶带。
    • 揭开MacBook Pro前端附近覆盖触控板连接器带状电缆的胶带。

  48. 使用撬棒的尖端将触控板带状电缆ZIF连接器上的黑色锁定标签翻转。 使用撬棒的尖端将触控板带状电缆ZIF连接器上的黑色锁定标签翻转。
    • 使用撬棒的尖端将触控板带状电缆ZIF连接器上的黑色锁定标签翻转。

    Personally I had problems getting the ZIF to disengage, so I disconnected the cable from the other side. Very easy, no problems taking the battery out and dealing with the rest of it.

    Wayne West - 回复

  49. 在触控板带状电缆和电池之间插入开口拨片。 在带状电缆长度下方小心地滑动,以将粘合剂固定在电池上。 带状电缆非常容易损坏。如果必要的话,使用iOpener或吹风机微微加热来软化粘合剂,这样您就可以使用更小的力量来移除它了。
    • 在触控板带状电缆和电池之间插入开口拨片。

    • 在带状电缆长度下方小心地滑动,以将粘合剂固定在电池上。

    • 带状电缆非常容易损坏。如果必要的话,使用iOpener或吹风机微微加热来软化粘合剂,这样您就可以使用更小的力量来移除它了。

  50. 卸下触控板带状电缆。 卸下触控板带状电缆。
    • 卸下触控板带状电缆。

    Heads up: I almost destroyed the cable, mistakenly pulling the connector upwards. In stead it needs to be pulled towards the back of the laptop body. The photos do show this, but I didn’t pay enough attention!

    Maaria Kaanaa - 回复

  51. 卸下固定电池板的两颗3.2毫米T5梅花螺丝。
    • 卸下固定电池板的两颗3.2毫米T5梅花螺丝。

  52. 套件中提供的液体粘合剂去除剂可能会影响MacBook Pro显示屏上的抗反射涂层。
    • 套件中提供的液体粘合剂去除剂可能会影响MacBook Pro显示屏上的抗反射涂层。

    • 为了保护您的显示器,请在显示器和键盘之间放置一张铝箔,并在工作时将其放置在那里。

    Open screen and put MacBook on it’s side

    Gert Cuykens - 回复

  53. 在MacBook Pro的前端朝向您的情况下,抬起右侧并用一个坚固的泡沫块或书本稍微支撑一下。 在下面的步骤中,您将液体粘合剂去除剂利用到电池的右边(外部)边缘。 保持MacBook Pro的这一侧的高度将帮助粘剂去除剂在电池下方流动。
    • 在MacBook Pro的前端朝向您的情况下,抬起右侧并用一个坚固的泡沫块或书本稍微支撑一下。

    • 在下面的步骤中,您将液体粘合剂去除剂利用到电池的右边(外部)边缘。 保持MacBook Pro的这一侧的高度将帮助粘剂去除剂在电池下方流动。

  54. 现在,您的MacBook Pro已经完全准备就绪,现在是时候做好准备了。 iFixit粘合剂去除剂含有丙酮,会刺激皮肤和眼睛。
    • 现在,您的MacBook Pro已经完全准备就绪,现在是时候做好准备了。

    • iFixit粘合剂去除剂含有丙酮,会刺激皮肤和眼睛。

    • 处理和使用粘合剂去除剂时请佩戴护目镜。 (护目镜包含在您的套件中。)

    • 没有护目镜就请不要戴隐形眼镜。

    • 套件中还包括防护手套。 如果您担心皮肤刺激,请立即戴上手套。

  55. 从你的粘合剂去除剂瓶中取下黑色橡胶塞。 在切割涂抹器尖端之前拧开以松开或取下瓶盖。 这会打开瓶子并在切割涂抹器尖端之前使压力均衡。如果跳过此步骤,粘合剂去除器可能会在切割尖端时意外喷出。
    • 从你的粘合剂去除剂瓶中取下黑色橡胶塞。

    • 在切割涂抹器尖端之前拧开以松开或取下瓶盖。

    • 这会打开瓶子并在切割涂抹器尖端之前使压力均衡。如果跳过此步骤,粘合剂去除器可能会在切割尖端时意外喷出。

    • 用剪刀剪掉涂抹器的密封尖端。

    • 靠近狭窄的尖端切割将使您获得更好的控制,因此您可以少量使用粘合剂去除剂。

    • 在进一步操作之前,请拧紧并关闭瓶盖。

  56. 沿右侧电池的边缘均匀涂抹几滴粘合剂。 你不需要使用太多。瓶中含有两倍以上的去除所有电池所需的除胶剂。
    • 沿右侧电池的边缘均匀涂抹几滴粘合剂。

    • 你不需要使用太多。瓶中含有两倍以上的去除所有电池所需的除胶剂。

    • 在进行下一步之前,等待2-3分钟让除胶剂渗入电池下方。

  57. 将塑料卡的一个角落滑动到电池外缘的下方。 轻轻扭动卡片可能有助于在电池和MacBook Pro之间打开一个小小的空隙 将其电池单元向下滑动,使其与将电池固定在MacBook Pro上盖上的粘合胶分开。
    • 将塑料卡的一个角落滑动到电池外缘的下方。

    • 轻轻扭动卡片可能有助于在电池和MacBook Pro之间打开一个小小的空隙

    • 将其电池单元向下滑动,使其与将电池固定在MacBook Pro上盖上的粘合胶分开。

  58. 提起电池将其从MacBook Pro的外壳中分离,但不要尝试将其取出。 将塑料卡留在电池下方,以防止在进行下一步时再次粘住塑料卡。
    • 提起电池将其从MacBook Pro的外壳中分离,但不要尝试将其取出。

    • 将塑料卡留在电池下方,以防止在进行下一步时再次粘住塑料卡。

  59. 沿着下一个电池单元的高边均匀地涂上少量的粘合胶去除剂。 在进行下一步之前,等待2-3分钟让粘胶去除剂渗入电池下方。
    • 沿着下一个电池单元的高边均匀地涂上少量的粘合胶去除剂。

    • 在进行下一步之前,等待2-3分钟让粘胶去除剂渗入电池下方。

  60. 将塑料卡的一个角落滑到第二个电池下面。 将卡推到第二个电池下方,并将其左右滑动以分离下面的粘胶。 将塑料卡留在两个电池单元下方(或将其翻转)以防止它们在继续下一步时重新粘附。
    • 将塑料卡的一个角落滑到第二个电池下面。

    • 将卡推到第二个电池下方,并将其左右滑动以分离下面的粘胶。

    • 将塑料卡留在两个电池单元下方(或将其翻转)以防止它们在继续下一步时重新粘附。

  61. 现在是改变方向的时候了。 取出您的书或泡沫块,并将其放在MacBook Pro的另一侧。 现在是改变方向的时候了。 取出您的书或泡沫块,并将其放在MacBook Pro的另一侧。
    • 现在是改变方向的时候了。 取出您的书或泡沫块,并将其放在MacBook Pro的另一侧。

  62. 重复以上步骤中的步骤来分离这一侧的两个电池块: 将粘胶去除剂涂在左侧电池单元的高边上,等待2-3分钟。 在电池下方的塑料卡的一个角上工作,然后将卡完全滑入电池下面将其分开。
    • 重复以上步骤中的步骤来分离这一侧的两个电池块:

    • 将粘胶去除剂涂在左侧电池单元的高边上,等待2-3分钟。

    • 在电池下方的塑料卡的一个角上工作,然后将卡完全滑入电池下面将其分开。

    • 对相邻的地方做同样的步骤。

    • 将塑料卡放在适当的位置,或将电池翻转过来,以免在下面的步骤中重新粘住电池。

  63. 在MacBook Pro的左侧抬起的情况下,在两个中间电池之间的中线下方涂上少量(约1毫升)去除剂。 等待2-3分钟让除胶剂继续渗透。
    • 在MacBook Pro的左侧抬起的情况下,在两个中间电池之间的中线下方涂上少量(约1毫升)去除剂。

    • 等待2-3分钟让除胶剂继续渗透。

  64. 将中间两个电池之间的塑料卡片的一个角落滑到右中央电池单元的高边缘下方。 将电池单元更远地滑到电池的下方,通过将其固定到位的粘胶进行切割。 不要试图完全分开这个电池。 将塑料卡留在原处,以防止其重新粘合。
    • 将中间两个电池之间的塑料卡片的一个角落滑到右中央电池单元的高边缘下方。

    • 将电池单元更远地滑到电池的下方,通过将其固定到位的粘胶进行切割。

    • 不要试图完全分开这个电池。 将塑料卡留在原处,以防止其重新粘合。

  65. 如果您还没有将两个未粘贴的右侧电池翻转过来,请将它放在MacBook Pro的前端。这样就可以对中部电池的外沿进行操作。 如果您还没有将两个未粘贴的右侧电池翻转过来,请将它放在MacBook Pro的前端。这样就可以对中部电池的外沿进行操作。
    • 如果您还没有将两个未粘贴的右侧电池翻转过来,请将它放在MacBook Pro的前端。这样就可以对中部电池的外沿进行操作。

  66. 将塑料卡的一个角推到塑料电池框架下方,并在下部中央的其余粘合边缘下方。 不要沿着靠近电池连接器的边缘撬动,否则可能会损坏键盘带状电缆。 将卡完全滑入电池下方,并将其留在电池上,以防止电池重新粘附。
    • 将塑料卡的一个角推到塑料电池框架下方,并在下部中央的其余粘合边缘下方。

    • 不要沿着靠近电池连接器的边缘撬动,否则可能会损坏键盘带状电缆。

    • 将卡完全滑入电池下方,并将其留在电池上,以防止电池重新粘附。

  67. 取出插入右中间电池下面的第一张塑料卡。 将另一张卡推进一点并将其放置到位,以防止电池重新粘附。 将另一张卡推进一点并将其放置到位,以防止电池重新粘附。
    • 取出插入右中间电池下面的第一张塑料卡。

    • 将另一张卡推进一点并将其放置到位,以防止电池重新粘附。

  68. 取出你的书或泡沫块。 MacBook Pro的前端朝向您,抬起右侧并再次支撑起来。
    • 取出你的书或泡沫块。

    • MacBook Pro的前端朝向您,抬起右侧并再次支撑起来。

  69. 在两个中央电池之间涂上少量除胶剂(约1毫升),使其流入其他的电池下方。
    • 在两个中央电池之间涂上少量除胶剂(约1毫升),使其流入其他的电池下方。

    • 等待2-3分钟让粘胶去除剂继续渗透。

  70. 将塑料卡的一个角落滑到最终电池的高边缘下方。 将卡推入电池下方,切割固定到位的粘合剂。 不要试图完全分开这个电池。 将塑料卡留在原处,以防止其重新粘附。
    • 将塑料卡的一个角落滑到最终电池的高边缘下方。

    • 将卡推入电池下方,切割固定到位的粘合剂。

    • 不要试图完全分开这个电池。 将塑料卡留在原处,以防止其重新粘附。

  71. 如果还没有这样做,请提起并翻转左侧的两个电池,以清除最后一个电池的外侧边缘。 如果还没有这样做,请提起并翻转左侧的两个电池,以清除最后一个电池的外侧边缘。
    • 如果还没有这样做,请提起并翻转左侧的两个电池,以清除最后一个电池的外侧边缘。

  72. 重复您在中右单元电池上使用的过程,以完成分离中央 - 左侧电池上的粘胶: 将塑料卡的一个角推到塑料电池框下方,并在剩余的电池的粘合边缘下方。 将您的卡一直滑到电池下面,并将其留在电池上以防止电池重新粘附。
    • 重复您在中右单元电池上使用的过程,以完成分离中央 - 左侧电池上的粘胶:

    • 将塑料卡的一个角推到塑料电池框下方,并在剩余的电池的粘合边缘下方。

    • 将您的卡一直滑到电池下面,并将其留在电池上以防止电池重新粘附。

  73. 取出插入最后一个电池下面的第一张卡。 取出插入最后一个电池下面的第一张卡。
    • 取出插入最后一个电池下面的第一张卡。

  74. 在两个中央电池单元的下面各放一张塑料卡片,拧紧并抬起两张卡片,将MacBook Pro中的电池,塑料框架和电池板完全分开。 在两个中央电池单元的下面各放一张塑料卡片,拧紧并抬起两张卡片,将MacBook Pro中的电池,塑料框架和电池板完全分开。
    • 在两个中央电池单元的下面各放一张塑料卡片,拧紧并抬起两张卡片,将MacBook Pro中的电池,塑料框架和电池板完全分开。

  75. 提起并取出电池。 在重新安装你的新电池之前,从MacBook Pro的机身上除去剩余的胶。
    • 提起并取出电池。

    • 在重新安装你的新电池之前,从MacBook Pro的机身上除去剩余的胶。

    • 幸运的话,你可以用手指慢慢地将每条胶条撕开

    • 否则,你就得用除胶剂浸泡没条胶2-3分钟,然后用塑料工具刮掉它们。这颇具工作量,请耐心点。

    • 除去任何残留的除胶剂,并给你的MacBook Pro几分钟晾干。

    • 你的iFixit工具包里的新电池上已经粘好了胶。在你揭掉胶上的膜之前先矫正好电池的位置,然后再把每个电池组件严丝合缝地放到位置上。如果你的新电池上有一些在原来的电池的相同位置没有出现的胶,马上把它们移除。

    • 校准 你新安装的电池: 将电池充电至100%并继续充电至少两小时,然后拔掉电源正常使用你的电脑。当出现低电量警告时,保存你的工作并继续使用电脑直至电量低自动休眠。静置至少5小时后一次性充电至100%。

    • 如果你在安装新电池以后注意到任何异常举动或者问题,也许你需要重置你 MacBook Pro 的 SMC。

    Don’t paste the new battery before complete reassembly and testing.

    Gert Cuykens - 回复

    When positioning the new battery, pay close attention to the alignment of the two screw holes at the top.

    Tammer Saleh - 回复

    I would really appreciate some additional tips on placing the new battery set. I attempted to adhere just the middle two by screwing in the battery management board, but unfortunately I dropped the batteries, and of course, they stuck immediately and needed to be pried out to be seated properly. One I got the middle two placed, I could then peel the backing for the outside four. It’s probably worth mentioning that the outside pair of batteries share space with the speaker assembly, so be careful placing those two.

    Duane Pinkerton - 回复

    This process was quick and easy. Takes patience but was able to get it done in about 1.5 hours. Getting the adhesive took the longest after getting the battery removed.

    scottn - 回复

    I’d definitely put the speakers back before sticking the new battery down. The new battery got stuck slightly close to where the left speakers was going it, and I was just barely able to make it all fit.

    Henrik Holm - 回复

    Is there a reason I should adhere the new batteries? I’d opt to leave them detached, if I can. The primary concern is obviously internal movement causing premature wear on the battery cables.

    I'm considering just attaching them all to a thin plastic sheet, that I tack down in a few spots. Maybe extend the sheet so the speaker screws hold it in place…

    Thoughts?

    kwschnautz - 回复

    You do not need too, but the adhesive is there to keep it secured to the body and not flop around and tap on the lower shell.

    Frank Hammond -

    Ok, studied all of the comments and other videos on Youtube. Dove in last night. But I didn’t remove the logic board. I just used braided string to shimmy down each battery to separate it from the glue backing. That worked great. When putting in the new battery, I made sure that its connector was connected to the laptop, then removed the backing and placed the new battery in place. Laptop powered up, and is now charging. And keep in mind, I paid a little extra for the tools and cards and shims, they were all very helpful. If you are trying to remove a screw you don’t have a tip for, you shouldn’t be removing it. :)

    Steve Cohen - 回复

    It would’ve been helpful to include a list of instructions for replacing all of the parts instead of just making us read the instructions backwards. When I was putting the logic board back on, I didn’t realize that one of the connectors got stuck underneath the board when placing it back into the computer. After reconnecting half of the connectors I realized one of them was stuck underneath so I had to disconnect all of the ones I reconnected to lift the logic board back up and pull out the connecter that got stuck underneath. I forgot to detach the keyboard backlight connecter and when I lifted to logic board the pull out the connecter stuck underneath, I snapped the keyboard backlight cable that was still attached. Luckily this isn’t a major component and I don’t really use the keyboard backlight that much anyway, but if you included a list of instructions for reattaching everything I probably wouldn’t have had this problem.

    Jake Benrubi - 回复

    These instructions….. Really???

    I just unplugged the battery, unplugged that cable that went over the battery, and unscrewed the two screws holding the battery.

    I then pried the batteries away without any chemicals and put in the new battery. Plugged in the two connectors and screwed everything back in place.

    I didn’t need to completely disassemble the macbook.

    Tycho Pandelaar - 回复

    I have an additional suggestion on placing the new battery. With the laptop case hinge away from you, I put a piece of masking tape from the bottom (closer) right corner of the new battery pack to the bottom left corner of the battery pack with some slack in it. This allows you to pick up the bottom edge of the batteries in an arc, and position and place the center ones first. I screwed in the battery controller, pulled the heavy plastic backing off of the batteries, then placed the center batteries, followed by the outside ones. be careful to stick the tape firmly. The last thing you want is the batteries coming free and falling to the case and sticking wherever they land. Good luck. This was the most stressful step for me. While you’re reassembling, give the fans and the fins of the heat exchangers a good dust with canned air. :)

    Duane Pinkerton - 回复

结论

要重新组装你的设备,请按照该指南并按照逆序重新组装。

220等其他人完成本指南。

特别感谢这些译者︰

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Jeff Suovanen

于2013年08月06日注册

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Do I need to remove all these things just to replace the battery or can I just remove the connectors above the battery than the battery?

Tony - 回复

I just went through this process yesterday, and today wondered why I needed to take all that crap out, because I don’t remember anything blocking the battery removal, that would require removing the speakers, logic board, etc. I think it’s because of the acetone adhesive solvent. It’s powerful stuff that can easily damage the system. Maybe, if you are able to get the battery out without the solvent, you can skip all the other stuff. I will say, however, that in my system, it seemed like the adhesive is real solid. It felt like I was pressing the card up against aluminum studs in the frame, until the solvent loosened it up. If you try to remove the battery without the solvent, be very careful not to use excessive force and warp your frame.

Edward Harvey -

I made it within 1 hour doing Steps 1-5, then Steps 46-50.

I removed battery heating the aluminium frame in the location of battery pack on the opposite side of the frame with NTE HG-300D Mini Heat Gun, and then gently peeling this battery pack with plastic spudger. You may need to reheat the area several times.

For 2 central battery elements you can't heat aluminium frame because they are below touchpad, so I peeled batteries a little bit with spudger, heated the underneath gently, and then peeled it again. Also dental floss could help cutting the glue underneath the battery.

pzhivulin - 回复

Thanks for your fast approach, worked fine for me as well! I did not use any glue dissolver at all.

Tom Vandepoel -

Same for me, about an hour. I didn’t use a heat gun, just finagled the tip of the adhesive dissolver around the edges and otherwise followed the directions using the plastic cards. That dissolver is great stuff, worked twice as fast as the instructions.

Bob Compono -

Thanks for posting your short version. I did mine in about an hour with dental floss and the plastic cards. No heat. No solvent.

So glad I read the comments before going down the path of insanity.

C ROBERT TATUM -

I followed your comment to skip most of the steps and just remove the keyboard cable and the batteries. The replacement of batteries revived my water damaged MacBook Pro which stucked in boot loop.

In the beginning I tried to avoid “finagled“ situation thus only dripped a drop or 2 of dissolver each time. I also use a thin tip to induct the dissolver into the gap. But it’s very hard to do the flossing work and very slow. For the last 2 central pieces I had to drip 10 or more drops for each line of tapes which eventually helped me to remove them.

For someone who can’t order ifixit dissolver, I got my “Arctic Thermal Material Remover” from canadacomputers.com. It may not be perfect but helps. I didn’t use heat gun.

Great article, thanks!

Yan -

These batteries appear to be actual Apple batteries. How did iFixit remove them from the case? If iFixit didn't, were they able to get replacement batteries directly from Apple (since the adhesive is already installed)?

plink53 - 回复

Battery seems to be working fine but trackpad and keyboard no longer work. They were working fine before I changed the battery. I checked the trackkpad cable but that seems fine and inserted properly. Reset SMC but still not working.

Jaime Hovey - 回复

Might want to disconnect and reconnect both cables (in the case of the trackpad cable, do this at both ends). Compare with the photos to make sure they're inserted far enough. Check carefully for any sign of physical damage to the cables, connectors, or the board itself. If you continue to have trouble, consider taking your question over to the Answers forum for more suggestions. Good luck!

Jeff Suovanen -

Thanks Jeff! I'm afraid this repair is a wash. Trackpad won't even click. I will ask around.

Jaime Hovey - 回复

Jeff, thanks so much for this guide. I was able to resurrect a Mid-2015 MBP that was thrown away due to water damage! It was stuck in an automatic boot loop whenever AC power was connected and would not even power on via the battery alone.

I admit that I did not do a complete teardown nor did I use the kit with the adhesive remover. I was able to lever the outer battery sections up enough with a plastic spudger to slide an old, used gift card underneath them to forcefully cut through the adhesive.

Here’s the System Information output for the installed battery part:

Battery Information:

  Model Information:

  Serial Number: <redacted>

  Manufacturer: DP

  Device Name: bq20z451

  Pack Lot Code: 0

  PCB Lot Code: 0

  Firmware Version: 702

  Hardware Revision: 1

  Cell Revision: 3241

  Charge Information:

  Charge Remaining (mAh): 8635

  Fully Charged: No

  Charging: Yes

  Full Charge Capacity (mAh): 8723

  Health Information:

  Cycle Count: 1

  Condition: Normal

  Battery Installed: Yes

  Amperage (mA): 900

  Voltage (mV): 13029

codelogic - 回复

Great job Jeff. Didn’t seem like there was a need to remove everything, but I’m glad I did. It’s all clean and working perfectly again. Best of all, no bulging battery warping the case!

Ben DeJong - 回复

Just did this today, January 17, 2018. Took me about 3 hours. The instructions were awesome. Taking the battery out was actually far easier than I imagined it would be. Really appreciate you guys making this guide. Apple was going to charge me $1500 to replace my battery, but I did it myself for $120.

Eric Warncke - 回复

Responding to Jeff: how did you reset your smc without a working keyboard??

JCRGH - 回复

I recommend people to check out the thread trick soo you dont need to remove all the components inside! You basicllyy just need to take of the backplate. remove two screws on the battery frame and then use a thread to cut the gluestrips between battery and bessel. I used builder string for leveling as its strong and thin. I used roughly 5 min to remove the battery from the bessel, and then another 30min to clean of the old glue. I recommend the Arctic Thermal removal (mainly for cleaning cpu), it resolves the glue at makes it gel like, then use a spachelor like the one you get un screen replacement kit and scrape it of, use a cloth or toilet paper to remove the liquid undderway. Since its in such a small bottle with drop adding you do not risk damaging the screen etc due to the acid. One of my most easiest repairs i have done! ifixit should update their approach with an alternative. Youtube “macbook retina battery replacement“ ;)

svennand - 回复

I agree with everyone that you don’t need to go through the entire process. Do Steps 1-5, then 46-50. WARNING: use as little force as possible when removing the battery, as you most certainly will rip or disconnect something else if you are not careful. Take special care with the keyboard/trackpad ribbon. When I did this repair I somehow ruined the keyboard/trackpad ribbon, and neither worked until I put another ribbon in—which is very easy. They cost pennies to replace, so you might even want to have some on hand. Everything works perfectly now!

Jaime Hovey - 回复

I just did the swap, followed all the directions (and it did make sense to me to do it properly and remove the speakers and everything to avoid damaging anything) . Either way, when I booted back up and am doing the initial discharge, my battery indicator has turned red and says “service battery” I am not sure if this is just because its in the middle of calibration, or if there is a problem. I assume there is no problem, but worth mentioning that it showed up.

Sam Massa - 回复

Did a full calibration cycle (that took for EVER because this battery (thankfully) lasts so much longer than my old tired one!!! woohoo!) All is well. If you get the red battery light just complete a full calibration cycle and bob’s your uncle!

Sam Massa - 回复

Heh… I ended up opening up the most CPU intensive programs I could muster to drain the battery for calibration. It definitely did last longer that I was anticipating. Yay for a fresh battery!

Mikel Pickett -

Worked for me too—I followed all the steps before I read the comment thread here. Wasn’t that big a deal, although I can’t say I was confident that everything was going to work when I switched it on, but all is good. Great instructions—thanks!

Geoffrey Peake - 回复

my mac won’t start after the replacement. booting in “scan for new hardware” mode, says that the new installed battery is faulty…

iulian miu - 回复

Being as cheap as I am, I bought the battery from Ebay. Tried to be lazy and just pop the battery out of the computer. Opened the case. . .Well it actually flew open as one of the original cells were swollen. Tried to pry the battery out with freeze spray, hoping to freeze the crappy adhesive and hoping it will just pop out. Spark. . .Hiss. . .Smoke. Long story short, I ended up buying iFixit’s Adhesive remover kit. Amazing product. The included cards just cut through that crappy adhesive like butter. Also, I did the repair the long way and took everything out. Best to be safe than sorry as there is a risk in damaging the sensitive logic board with the adhesive remover or with your tools trying to free the crappy batteries from the crappy adhesive. Right now I’m calibrating the battery. Wish I bought the battery from iFixit in the first place to support such a great company with great products. Kudos!

Jeffy - 回复

Went slow and steady. Followed all the steps. Seem to have pulled it off. Everything appears to be working. Amazing guide and great price on the battery. Thank you.

Raza Ahmad - 回复

Why did Apple make this so difficult?

Gary Gruda - 回复

Worked well, but the screen’s black. I tried resetting the SMC, zapping PRAM, and removed/replaced the display connector, but I’ve still got the same problem. FWIW, an external Thunderbolt/MiniDisplay Port screen works w/o an issue.

Anyone have any ideas?

Andy Mowrey - 回复

@amowrey Just a guess, but you might want to check the display cable in steps 37-38. Make sure the socket is clean and the cable is fully inserted and locked in place.

Jeff Suovanen -

Did This Repair using some waterproof pvc playing cards, a syringe squeeze bottle with 99.9% isopropyl and a black stick. Took about 15 minutes to free the battery, just watch out for the flex cables on the trackpad and its no problem. No real need to gut the entire frame. Would of been a bit easier with some heat applied to the outter most cells.

Joshua Sites - 回复

Replaced my battery today, everything works perfectly. Went through steps 1-5 and then 46-50. There is literally no need to disassemble the entire laptop. Thanks for this repair kit :)

Pavel Denisjuk - 回复

By starting at 45, didn’t you meet problems with the two speakers standing in the way? They limit a lot the space in which you can pour the liquid to soften the glue, and are in the way when inserting tools to lift the outer batteries. I’d really like to follow the same procedure and avoid disassembling everything, but I am wondering if I am able to. Maybe is possible to remove partially the speakers? Their cables run under the motherboard so I guess they can’t be taken out without a full disassembly, but maybe they can just be lifted a little? Thanks for any suggestion.

Andrea Viceré -