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介绍

使用本指南可以借助iFixit电池更换套件从MacBook Pro中安全地取出内置电池。 套件中的粘合剂去除剂将溶解固定电池的粘合剂,使您可以轻松地将其移除。

Apple 在2019年6月对这款型号的电池进行召回 ——所以在更换电池之前,你可以检查是否有资格免费从 Apple 获得替代品

“iFixit粘合剂去除剂是高度易燃的。''请'在通风良好的地方进行此项操作。 在这个过程中不要在明火附近抽烟或工作。

为了你的安全,在开始此指南之前,请先将MacBook Pro的电池电量耗尽。如果意外刺破,带电的锂离子电池可能会造成危险且无法控制的火灾。如果你的电池已经鼓包,请参考此指南

注意:用于溶解电池粘合剂的溶剂会在你的扬声器与塑料扬声器音箱接触时损坏。 所以,本指南指导你在继续使用电池之前取下扬声器。移除扬声器还需要移除其他几个组件,包括主板。

如果你使用旧式iFixit 胶水去除剂,即单独的瓶子和注射器(不再销售),点击这里使用一个稍微不同的教程。

  1. 取出固定Macbook Pro底壳的五角梅花螺丝,如下:
    • 取出固定Macbook Pro底壳的五角梅花螺丝,如下:

    • 8颗3.1mm螺丝

    • 两颗2.3mm螺丝

    The number of screws listed here is wrong on my model. I had four of the smaller size.

    anonymous 1286 - 回复

    Just to add to my comment above (I can't edit it because it's anonymous), my MacBook Pro is a mid-2015 15in model 2.8GHz (A1398; EMC2881). For the bottom case it uses six 3.1mm screws, and four 2.3mm screws at the clutch/hinge side of the MacBook Pro. I tried using a 3.1mm screw at the clutch/hinge end, as described in the main article, and they don't fit. It has to be four 2.3mm screws.

    anonymous 1286 - 回复

  2. 从屏幕转轴一侧的边缘抬起,把底部盖板从MacBook Pro上抬起来。 从屏幕转轴一侧的边缘抬起,把底部盖板从MacBook Pro上抬起来。
    • 从屏幕转轴一侧的边缘抬起,把底部盖板从MacBook Pro上抬起来。

  3. 底部盖板上有两个塑料夹子(红色),在上面的箱子里卡扣(橙色)可以装进塑料夹子。 在重新组装过程中,轻轻地将盖板的中心推到它的两个塑料夹上。 在重新组装过程中,轻轻地将盖板的中心推到它的两个塑料夹上。
    • 底部盖板上有两个塑料夹子(红色),在上面的箱子里卡扣(橙色)可以装进塑料夹子。

    • 在重新组装过程中,轻轻地将盖板的中心推到它的两个塑料夹上。

    pretty hard to put it back, so I just remove the clips on the upper case....

    jamiegan835 - 回复

    The trick to putting it back on is to guide your fingers to the same level as the clips, and then when you put the case down move your hand from the left side of the case to the right side of the case; applying pressure when you reach the area where the clips are.

    Aaron Freidus - 回复

  4. 把电池连接器上的标签撕掉。
    • 把电池连接器上的标签撕掉。

    You only need to remove the tape to the edge of the flap. This is enough to be able to pry the battery connector up.

    Aaron Freidus - 回复

    +1 to above comment

    Andrew Saunders - 回复

    Note that the photo is taken from the hinge side - the other way to the photo in step 3

    Toby Thurston - 回复

    I chanced it, didnt disconnect the battery and all is well even after giving the insides a good vacuuming before changing the SSD.

    Dermot O Logical - 回复

  5. 在逻辑板上轻轻抬起电池连接器的每一端,将连接器从其插座上撬开。 将连接器弯曲,确保电池连接器不意外地与逻辑板接触。 将连接器弯曲,确保电池连接器不意外地与逻辑板接触。
    • 在逻辑板上轻轻抬起电池连接器的每一端,将连接器从其插座上撬开。

    • 将连接器弯曲,确保电池连接器不意外地与逻辑板接触。

    why is this necessary to remove a hard drive?

    Lawtay - 回复

    @lawrencetaylor On any electronics repair, you need to disconnect all sources of power before you start. It’s a basic safety precaution and also removes the risk of accidentally shorting a connection somewhere (which can potentially kill your MacBook).

    Jeff Suovanen -

    I chanced it, didnt disconnect the battery and all is well even after giving the insides a good vacuuming before changing the SSD.

    Dermot O Logical - 回复

    Picture doesn’t match the computer. Hard to tell which connector to disconnect

    James Mitchell - 回复

    Hi James, are you sure you have the correct guide for your machine? Try using our MacBook Identification tool.

    Sam Goldheart -

    Habe den Akkustecker beim putzen abgemacht um keinen Stromschlag zu kriegen, jetzt wieder eingebaut. Nun habe ich folgendes Problem: Akku wird geladen, aber steigt niemals ueber % und manchmal geht er trotz Anschluss an das Stromnetz einfach aus. Hat da jemand eine Idee?

    paul - 回复

    I used the identification tool and can confirm what James is seeing. The picture doesn’t match for this step. There is no piece with visible holes punched in it.

    Joshua McFarland - 回复

  6. 将三个AirPort天线电缆连接器从AirPort板上的插座上断开,然后将其弯曲并放置一边。 小心撬动连接器,而不是电缆或插座。 小心撬动连接器,而不是电缆或插座。
    • 将三个AirPort天线电缆连接器从AirPort板上的插座上断开,然后将其弯曲并放置一边。

    • 小心撬动连接器,而不是电缆或插座。

    I seriously hate this step - it is pretty much the only difficult part of the job. Reconnecting these microscopic stinkin connectors is a monumental PITA…

    T Rowe - 回复

    Guys, be very carefull with these 3 cables.. If you are not going to replace the whole display, just be careful as much as possible.

    Adi - 回复

    When reconnecting these tiny wires, use one hand to guide and align the connector by holding the wire and the other hand to press them down with a flat end of a spudger. Spent 10 minutes figuring it out and connecting the first one, then only a few seconds on both of the remaining connectors :)

    If you try to do this with one hand, it’s extremely easy to move them out of the alignment while pressing them down.

    Aivar Kavshevich - 回复

    I think there is a better way - where you disconnect the wifi card using the black screw in middle of wire 2 and 3 first and then untie these connectors. I pryed away the connectors but the sockets on the card were all damaged during the process. Ended up having to get a replacement card before reassembly could be completed. So again there are 2 components - connectors which are being pryed away and really fine and delicate socket. Very easy to damage them. Better to take the card off and delicately peel these connectors off. I would not recommend using these pry sticks mentioned here for that.

    Abhishek Kathuria - 回复

    ATTENTION ! Cette étape est grandement sous-estimée, aucune mention de la délicatesse de l’opération contrairement à d’autres étapes bien plus facile… De plus, il semble possible de sauter cette étape en déconnectant seulement la carte comme expliquer sur la version anglophone du guide !!! J’ai endommagé le connecteur le plus proche du ventilateur, pour rien… Heureusement, tout semble fonctionner correctement…

    Antochny - 回复

    AirPort/Camera Cables? not AirPort/Bluetooth Cables?

    Marco Cappelli - 回复

    Je confirme qu’il est plus simple de déconnecter la carte (enlever la vis, et tirer délicatement sur la carte) que d’enlever les trois cables / I confirm that it’s a lot easier to disconnect the Airport card (just remove the screw and pull gently) than removing those 3 wires.

    Maen J - 回复

    Agreed with Abhishek - removing the wifi card first makes this much easier.

    Tammer Saleh - 回复

    How do you know which is which when reassembling?

    Bryan Province - 回复

  7. 剥下风扇上的右橡胶盖并将其折叠放置一边。 剥下风扇上的右橡胶盖并将其折叠放置一边。
    • 剥下风扇上的右橡胶盖并将其折叠放置一边。

  8. 使用挑线器的尖端将相机电缆连接器从逻辑板上的插槽中推出。 确保将电路板平行推入电路板,首先推动一侧,然后另一侧将连接器“推出”插座。
    • 使用挑线器的尖端将相机电缆连接器从逻辑板上的插槽中推出。

    • 确保将电路板平行推入电路板,首先推动一侧,然后另一侧将连接器“推出”插座。

  9. 用手指将AirPort /相机电缆从风扇上拔下。 电缆粘在风扇上,小心将其剥离,以免损坏风扇。 小心地将电缆从塑料电缆导轨上卸下。
    • 用手指将AirPort /相机电缆从风扇上拔下。

    • 电缆粘在风扇上,小心将其剥离,以免损坏风扇。

    • 小心地将电缆从塑料电缆导轨上卸下。

    • 在重新组装时,这些电缆上仍应有足够的粘合剂将其粘到风扇上。

  10. 卸掉固定住I/O板的4个2.2mm T5 内梅花头螺丝钉。
    • 卸掉固定住I/O板的4个2.2mm T5 内梅花头螺丝钉。

    why is this needed for upper assembly replacement?

    Andrew Chu - 回复

  11. 卸掉左连接器的挡板。 用撬棒的平头从主板槽上翘起I/O板排线的左端。
    • 卸掉左连接器的挡板。

    • 用撬棒的平头从主板槽上翘起I/O板排线的左端。

  12. 卸掉右连接器的挡板。 用撬棒的平头从主板槽上翘起I/O板排线的右端。
    • 卸掉右连接器的挡板。

    • 用撬棒的平头从主板槽上翘起I/O板排线的右端。

  13. I/O板排线是用胶粘在风扇上的,把它剥开。
    • I/O板排线是用胶粘在风扇上的,把它剥开。

    • 卸掉排线。

    Cable need not be removed.

    mayer - 回复

  14. 拆掉下列将右风扇固定在主板上的螺丝。
    • 拆掉下列将右风扇固定在主板上的螺丝。

    • 一颗5.0mm T5 内梅花头螺丝,带2.0mm内柱。

    • 一颗4.0mm T5 内梅花头螺丝,宽螺丝头。

    • 一颗4.4mm T5 内梅花头螺丝。

  15. 用撬棒的尖头翻起右风扇插槽上的卡扣。 确定你是在挑卡扣,而不是插槽本身。
    • 用撬棒的尖头翻起右风扇插槽上的卡扣。

    • 确定你是在挑卡扣,而不是插槽本身。

  16. 抬起风扇并轻轻地将其移向MacBook的后部边缘,以便将风扇排线拉出插槽。 风扇排线有可能是用胶粘在主板上的——为防扯断排线,在抬起风扇的时候轻轻地剥离排线。
    • 抬起风扇并轻轻地将其移向MacBook的后部边缘,以便将风扇排线拉出插槽。

    • 风扇排线有可能是用胶粘在主板上的——为防扯断排线,在抬起风扇的时候轻轻地剥离排线。

    • 卸掉风扇。

  17. 揭开左侧风扇上的橡胶盖并把它翻到一边。 揭开左侧风扇上的橡胶盖并把它翻到一边。
    • 揭开左侧风扇上的橡胶盖并把它翻到一边。

  18. 拆掉下列将左风扇固定在主板上的螺丝。
    • 拆掉下列将左风扇固定在主板上的螺丝。

    • 一颗5.0mm T5 内梅花头螺丝,带2.0mm内柱。

    • 一颗4.0mm T5 内梅花头螺丝,宽螺丝头。

    • 一颗4.4mm T5 内梅花头螺丝。

  19. 用撬棒的尖头将左风扇插槽上的卡扣翻起。 确定你是在挑卡扣,而不是插槽本身。
    • 用撬棒的尖头将左风扇插槽上的卡扣翻起。

    • 确定你是在挑卡扣,而不是插槽本身。

  20. 抬起风扇并轻轻地将其移向MacBook的后部边缘,以便将风扇排线拉出其插槽。 风扇排线有可能是用胶粘在主板上的——为防扯断排线,在抬起风扇时轻轻地将排线剥离。
    • 抬起风扇并轻轻地将其移向MacBook的后部边缘,以便将风扇排线拉出其插槽。

    • 风扇排线有可能是用胶粘在主板上的——为防扯断排线,在抬起风扇时轻轻地将排线剥离。

    • 卸掉风扇。

  21. 拆掉这将SSD固定在主板上的单独一颗2.9mm T5 内梅花头螺丝。
    • 拆掉这将SSD固定在主板上的单独一颗2.9mm T5 内梅花头螺丝。

  22. 将SSD的左端抬起足够高度以便直接越过它后面的扬声器。 不要把SSD抬的太高,否则你可能弄伤金手指或是插槽。 将SSD笔直地从主板插槽上抽出。
    • 将SSD的左端抬起足够高度以便直接越过它后面的扬声器。

    • 不要把SSD抬的太高,否则你可能弄伤金手指或是插槽。

    • 将SSD笔直地从主板插槽上抽出。

  23. 用撬棒的尖头挑起I/O板连接线的卡扣。 把撬棒翻过来,用平头把I/O排线推出连接器。 把卡扣翻到一个合适的角度再把排线推出连接器。这有助于防止对排线或者连接器接头造成意外伤害。
    • 用撬棒的尖头挑起I/O板连接线的卡扣。

    • 把撬棒翻过来,用平头把I/O排线推出连接器。

    • 把卡扣翻到一个合适的角度再把排线推出连接器。这有助于防止对排线或者连接器接头造成意外伤害。

  24. 从I/O板上拆掉两颗3.1mm T5内梅花头螺丝。
    • 从I/O板上拆掉两颗3.1mm T5内梅花头螺丝。

    Remove the screw holding the heat pipe, it blocks the I/O board from coming out

    Gert Cuykens - 回复

  25. 稍微抬起I/O板的内边缘,并将其拉向MacBook的中心,离开机体的边缘。 卸掉I/O板。
    • 稍微抬起I/O板的内边缘,并将其拉向MacBook的中心,离开机体的边缘。

    • 卸掉I/O板。

  26. Android 维修工具包

    一个新的屏幕或电池就在一个套件之内。

    现在开始购物

    Android 维修工具包

    一个新的屏幕或电池就在一个套件之内。

    现在开始购物
  27. 拆掉两颗将触摸板排线接口挡板固定在主板上的2.2mm T5内梅花头螺丝。 卸掉档板。
    • 拆掉两颗将触摸板排线接口挡板固定在主板上的2.2mm T5内梅花头螺丝。

    • 卸掉档板。

  28. 用撬棒的平头断开触摸板排线与主板插槽的连接。 有一种简单的方法将排线插头从这类插槽中撬开,就是把撬棒伸到插头下轻轻扭动。 小心,只需要撬插头,别撬了主板上的插槽。
    • 用撬棒的平头断开触摸板排线与主板插槽的连接。

    • 有一种简单的方法将排线插头从这类插槽中撬开,就是把撬棒伸到插头下轻轻扭动。

    • 小心,只需要撬插头,别撬了主板上的插槽。

  29. 摘下散热铁一端螺丝上的橡胶帽。
    • 摘下散热铁一端螺丝上的橡胶帽。

  30. 拆掉下列6颗固定主板的螺丝。
    • 拆掉下列6颗固定主板的螺丝。

    • 一颗3.8mm T5 内梅花头螺丝。

    • 两颗5.7mm T5 内梅花头螺丝。

    • 一颗5.6mm T5 内梅花头螺丝。

    • 一颗2.6mm T5 内梅花头螺丝。

    • 一颗3.2mm T5 内梅花头螺丝。

    • 若要重新组装,先拧上这6颗螺丝,但不要把它们拧紧。移动主板让所有螺丝都正对螺丝口,并且保证所有侧边接口都与机身对应开口对齐。然后再拧紧螺丝。

    Top left and right screw (red, yellow) are silver, the other ones black.

    Peter G - 回复

  31. 以下步骤会详细说明如何断开这6个插头。一定要认真阅读,因为这些插头各有不同而拆法不一。
    • 以下步骤会详细说明如何断开这6个插头。一定要认真阅读,因为这些插头各有不同而拆法不一。

    • 麦克风排线

    • 左扬声器排线

    • 键盘数据排线

    • 右扬声器排线

    • 键盘背光排线

    • 显示器排线

    • 重新组装的时候,要检查这些插头是不是都插了,是不是都插牢固了。

  32. 用撬棒的尖头挑起麦克风排线插槽处的卡扣。 将麦克风排线以平行于主板的方向拉出插槽。 将麦克风排线以平行于主板的方向拉出插槽。
    • 用撬棒的尖头挑起麦克风排线插槽处的卡扣。

    • 将麦克风排线以平行于主板的方向拉出插槽。

  33. 用撬棒的平头将左扬声器的插头从主板的插槽中撬起。 确保你撬的是插头而不是主板上的插槽。要是撬了插槽你有可能把它从主板上撬下来。 轻轻地把排线弯向一边以便稍后取出主板。
    • 用撬棒的平头将左扬声器的插头从主板的插槽中撬起。

    • 确保你撬的是插头而不是主板上的插槽。要是撬了插槽你有可能把它从主板上撬下来。

    • 轻轻地把排线弯向一边以便稍后取出主板。

  34. 剥开粘在键盘数据排线插头上的胶带。 剥开粘在键盘数据排线插头上的胶带。
    • 剥开粘在键盘数据排线插头上的胶带。

  35. 用撬棒的尖头挑起键盘数据排线ZIF插槽上的卡扣。 确保你撬的是卡扣,而不是插槽本身。 把键盘数据排线拉出它的ZIF插槽。确保你拉它的时候是平行于主板的,而不是直直地往上拉。
    • 用撬棒的尖头挑起键盘数据排线ZIF插槽上的卡扣。

    • 确保你撬的是卡扣,而不是插槽本身。

    • 把键盘数据排线拉出它的ZIF插槽。确保你拉它的时候是平行于主板的,而不是直直地往上拉。

  36. 用撬棒的尖头把右扬声器插头从主板插槽中撬出。 确保你撬的是插头而不是主板上的插槽。要是撬了插槽你有可能把它从主板上撬下来。 轻轻地把排线弯向一边以便稍后取下主板。
    • 用撬棒的尖头把右扬声器插头从主板插槽中撬出。

    • 确保你撬的是插头而不是主板上的插槽。要是撬了插槽你有可能把它从主板上撬下来。

    • 轻轻地把排线弯向一边以便稍后取下主板。

  37. 用撬棒的尖头把键盘背光插头从它在主板上的插槽中撬起。 用撬棒的尖头把键盘背光插头从它在主板上的插槽中撬起。
    • 用撬棒的尖头把键盘背光插头从它在主板上的插槽中撬起。

  38. 用撬棒的尖头把显示器数据排线锁挑开并把它转向电脑的MagSafe2电源插口方向。 用撬棒的尖头把显示器数据排线锁挑开并把它转向电脑的MagSafe2电源插口方向。
    • 用撬棒的尖头把显示器数据排线锁挑开并把它转向电脑的MagSafe2电源插口方向。

    +(mit dem schwarzen Klebeband zusammen)

    Verwende die Spitze eines Spudgers, um den Verschluss des Displaydatenkabels nach oben zu klappen (mit dem schwarzen Klebeband zusammen) und ihn in Richtung MagSafe 2-Powerport zu drehen.

    Mihály Plajner - 回复

  39. 把显示器数据排线从它在主板上的插槽中直拉出来。 不要把显示器数据排线向上抬,因为它的插槽非常纤细。拉排线的时候要平行于主板拉。 不要用你的手指或其他任何工具触碰数据插头或其插槽,因为你可能会在针脚上留下油渍或是弄伤它。
    • 把显示器数据排线从它在主板上的插槽中直拉出来。

    • 不要把显示器数据排线向上抬,因为它的插槽非常纤细。拉排线的时候要平行于主板拉。

    • 不要用你的手指或其他任何工具触碰数据插头或其插槽,因为你可能会在针脚上留下油渍或是弄伤它。

    • 轻轻地把显示器数据排线弯向屏轴方向,以便拆掉MagSafe2板上的螺丝。

  40. 从MagSafe2板上拆掉两颗4.0mm T5 内梅花头螺丝。
    • 从MagSafe2板上拆掉两颗4.0mm T5 内梅花头螺丝。

  41. 从机身上将整个主板组件抬起并抽出。 当你要重新组装的时候,确保每一个插口都与它们在机身上的开口对齐。 当你要重新组装的时候,确保每一个插口都与它们在机身上的开口对齐。
    • 从机身上将整个主板组件抬起并抽出。

    • 当你要重新组装的时候,确保每一个插口都与它们在机身上的开口对齐。

  42. 拆掉以下这些将左侧扬声器固定在上部机身的螺丝:
    • 拆掉以下这些将左侧扬声器固定在上部机身的螺丝:

    • 2.7mm T5 内梅花头螺丝

    • 6.9mm T5 内梅花头螺丝

    • 5.6mm T5 内梅花头螺丝

  43. 轻轻地从上部机身的铝制侧边卡中将左侧扬声器拉出来。 轻轻地从上部机身的铝制侧边卡中将左侧扬声器拉出来。
    • 轻轻地从上部机身的铝制侧边卡中将左侧扬声器拉出来。

  44. 拆掉以下这些将右侧扬声器固定在机身上的螺丝:
    • 拆掉以下这些将右侧扬声器固定在机身上的螺丝:

    • 2.7mm T5 内梅花头螺丝

    • 6.9mm T5 内梅花头螺丝

    • 5.6mm T5 内梅花头螺丝

  45. 右侧扬声器的排线轻轻地粘在上部机身上。 挑开右侧扬声器排线,让它与上部机身分离。
    • 右侧扬声器的排线轻轻地粘在上部机身上。

    • 挑开右侧扬声器排线,让它与上部机身分离。

    • 在重新组装的时候,让折弯的排线紧贴电池上面的铝制框架。

  46. 轻轻地从上部机身的铝制侧边卡中将右侧扬声器拉出来。 轻轻地从上部机身的铝制侧边卡中将右侧扬声器拉出来。
    • 轻轻地从上部机身的铝制侧边卡中将右侧扬声器拉出来。

  47. 揭开MacBook Pro前端附近覆盖触控板连接器带状电缆的胶带。 揭开MacBook Pro前端附近覆盖触控板连接器带状电缆的胶带。
    • 揭开MacBook Pro前端附近覆盖触控板连接器带状电缆的胶带。

  48. 使用撬棒的尖端将触控板带状电缆ZIF连接器上的黑色锁定标签翻转。 使用撬棒的尖端将触控板带状电缆ZIF连接器上的黑色锁定标签翻转。
    • 使用撬棒的尖端将触控板带状电缆ZIF连接器上的黑色锁定标签翻转。

    Personally I had problems getting the ZIF to disengage, so I disconnected the cable from the other side. Very easy, no problems taking the battery out and dealing with the rest of it.

    Wayne West - 回复

  49. 在触控板带状电缆和电池之间插入开口拨片。 在带状电缆长度下方小心地滑动,以将粘合剂固定在电池上。 带状电缆非常容易损坏。如果必要的话,使用iOpener或吹风机微微加热来软化粘合剂,这样您就可以使用更小的力量来移除它了。
    • 在触控板带状电缆和电池之间插入开口拨片。

    • 在带状电缆长度下方小心地滑动,以将粘合剂固定在电池上。

    • 带状电缆非常容易损坏。如果必要的话,使用iOpener或吹风机微微加热来软化粘合剂,这样您就可以使用更小的力量来移除它了。

  50. 卸下触控板带状电缆。 卸下触控板带状电缆。
    • 卸下触控板带状电缆。

  51. 卸下固定电池板的两颗3.2毫米T5梅花螺丝。
    • 卸下固定电池板的两颗3.2毫米T5梅花螺丝。

  52. 套件中提供的液体粘合剂去除剂可能会影响MacBook Pro显示屏上的抗反射涂层。
    • 套件中提供的液体粘合剂去除剂可能会影响MacBook Pro显示屏上的抗反射涂层。

    • 为了保护您的显示器,请在显示器和键盘之间放置一张铝箔,并在工作时将其放置在那里。

    Open screen and put MacBook on it’s side

    Gert Cuykens - 回复

  53. 在MacBook Pro的前端朝向您的情况下,抬起右侧并用一个坚固的泡沫块或书本稍微支撑一下。 在下面的步骤中,您将液体粘合剂去除剂利用到电池的右边(外部)边缘。 保持MacBook Pro的这一侧的高度将帮助粘剂去除剂在电池下方流动。
    • 在MacBook Pro的前端朝向您的情况下,抬起右侧并用一个坚固的泡沫块或书本稍微支撑一下。

    • 在下面的步骤中,您将液体粘合剂去除剂利用到电池的右边(外部)边缘。 保持MacBook Pro的这一侧的高度将帮助粘剂去除剂在电池下方流动。

  54. 现在,您的MacBook Pro已经完全准备就绪,现在是时候做好准备了。 iFixit粘合剂去除剂含有丙酮,会刺激皮肤和眼睛。
    • 现在,您的MacBook Pro已经完全准备就绪,现在是时候做好准备了。

    • iFixit粘合剂去除剂含有丙酮,会刺激皮肤和眼睛。

    • 处理和使用粘合剂去除剂时请佩戴护目镜。 (护目镜包含在您的套件中。)

    • 没有护目镜就请不要戴隐形眼镜。

    • 套件中还包括防护手套。 如果您担心皮肤刺激,请立即戴上手套。

  55. 从你的粘合剂去除剂瓶中取下黑色橡胶塞。 在切割涂抹器尖端之前拧开以松开或取下瓶盖。 这会打开瓶子并在切割涂抹器尖端之前使压力均衡。如果跳过此步骤,粘合剂去除器可能会在切割尖端时意外喷出。
    • 从你的粘合剂去除剂瓶中取下黑色橡胶塞。

    • 在切割涂抹器尖端之前拧开以松开或取下瓶盖。

    • 这会打开瓶子并在切割涂抹器尖端之前使压力均衡。如果跳过此步骤,粘合剂去除器可能会在切割尖端时意外喷出。

    • 用剪刀剪掉涂抹器的密封尖端。

    • 靠近狭窄的尖端切割将使您获得更好的控制,因此您可以少量使用粘合剂去除剂。

    • 在进一步操作之前,请拧紧并关闭瓶盖。

  56. 沿右侧电池的边缘均匀涂抹几滴粘合剂。 你不需要使用太多。瓶中含有两倍以上的去除所有电池所需的除胶剂。
    • 沿右侧电池的边缘均匀涂抹几滴粘合剂。

    • 你不需要使用太多。瓶中含有两倍以上的去除所有电池所需的除胶剂。

    • 在进行下一步之前,等待2-3分钟让除胶剂渗入电池下方。

  57. 将塑料卡的一个角落滑动到电池外缘的下方。 轻轻扭动卡片可能有助于在电池和MacBook Pro之间打开一个小小的空隙 将其电池单元向下滑动,使其与将电池固定在MacBook Pro上盖上的粘合胶分开。
    • 将塑料卡的一个角落滑动到电池外缘的下方。

    • 轻轻扭动卡片可能有助于在电池和MacBook Pro之间打开一个小小的空隙

    • 将其电池单元向下滑动,使其与将电池固定在MacBook Pro上盖上的粘合胶分开。

  58. 提起电池将其从MacBook Pro的外壳中分离,但不要尝试将其取出。 将塑料卡留在电池下方,以防止在进行下一步时再次粘住塑料卡。
    • 提起电池将其从MacBook Pro的外壳中分离,但不要尝试将其取出。

    • 将塑料卡留在电池下方,以防止在进行下一步时再次粘住塑料卡。

  59. 沿着下一个电池单元的高边均匀地涂上少量的粘合胶去除剂。 在进行下一步之前,等待2-3分钟让粘胶去除剂渗入电池下方。
    • 沿着下一个电池单元的高边均匀地涂上少量的粘合胶去除剂。

    • 在进行下一步之前,等待2-3分钟让粘胶去除剂渗入电池下方。

  60. 将塑料卡的一个角落滑到第二个电池下面。 将卡推到第二个电池下方,并将其左右滑动以分离下面的粘胶。 将塑料卡留在两个电池单元下方(或将其翻转)以防止它们在继续下一步时重新粘附。
    • 将塑料卡的一个角落滑到第二个电池下面。

    • 将卡推到第二个电池下方,并将其左右滑动以分离下面的粘胶。

    • 将塑料卡留在两个电池单元下方(或将其翻转)以防止它们在继续下一步时重新粘附。

  61. 现在是改变方向的时候了。 取出您的书或泡沫块,并将其放在MacBook Pro的另一侧。 现在是改变方向的时候了。 取出您的书或泡沫块,并将其放在MacBook Pro的另一侧。
    • 现在是改变方向的时候了。 取出您的书或泡沫块,并将其放在MacBook Pro的另一侧。

  62. 重复以上步骤中的步骤来分离这一侧的两个电池块: 将粘胶去除剂涂在左侧电池单元的高边上,等待2-3分钟。 在电池下方的塑料卡的一个角上工作,然后将卡完全滑入电池下面将其分开。
    • 重复以上步骤中的步骤来分离这一侧的两个电池块:

    • 将粘胶去除剂涂在左侧电池单元的高边上,等待2-3分钟。

    • 在电池下方的塑料卡的一个角上工作,然后将卡完全滑入电池下面将其分开。

    • 对相邻的地方做同样的步骤。

    • 将塑料卡放在适当的位置,或将电池翻转过来,以免在下面的步骤中重新粘住电池。

  63. 在MacBook Pro的左侧抬起的情况下,在两个中间电池之间的中线下方涂上少量(约1毫升)去除剂。 等待2-3分钟让除胶剂继续渗透。
    • 在MacBook Pro的左侧抬起的情况下,在两个中间电池之间的中线下方涂上少量(约1毫升)去除剂。

    • 等待2-3分钟让除胶剂继续渗透。

  64. 将中间两个电池之间的塑料卡片的一个角落滑到右中央电池单元的高边缘下方。 将电池单元更远地滑到电池的下方,通过将其固定到位的粘胶进行切割。 不要试图完全分开这个电池。 将塑料卡留在原处,以防止其重新粘合。
    • 将中间两个电池之间的塑料卡片的一个角落滑到右中央电池单元的高边缘下方。

    • 将电池单元更远地滑到电池的下方,通过将其固定到位的粘胶进行切割。

    • 不要试图完全分开这个电池。 将塑料卡留在原处,以防止其重新粘合。

  65. 如果您还没有将两个未粘贴的右侧电池翻转过来,请将它放在MacBook Pro的前端。这样就可以对中部电池的外沿进行操作。 如果您还没有将两个未粘贴的右侧电池翻转过来,请将它放在MacBook Pro的前端。这样就可以对中部电池的外沿进行操作。
    • 如果您还没有将两个未粘贴的右侧电池翻转过来,请将它放在MacBook Pro的前端。这样就可以对中部电池的外沿进行操作。

  66. 将塑料卡的一个角推到塑料电池框架下方,并在下部中央的其余粘合边缘下方。 不要沿着靠近电池连接器的边缘撬动,否则可能会损坏键盘带状电缆。 将卡完全滑入电池下方,并将其留在电池上,以防止电池重新粘附。
    • 将塑料卡的一个角推到塑料电池框架下方,并在下部中央的其余粘合边缘下方。

    • 不要沿着靠近电池连接器的边缘撬动,否则可能会损坏键盘带状电缆。

    • 将卡完全滑入电池下方,并将其留在电池上,以防止电池重新粘附。

  67. 取出插入右中间电池下面的第一张塑料卡。 将另一张卡推进一点并将其放置到位,以防止电池重新粘附。 将另一张卡推进一点并将其放置到位,以防止电池重新粘附。
    • 取出插入右中间电池下面的第一张塑料卡。

    • 将另一张卡推进一点并将其放置到位,以防止电池重新粘附。

  68. 取出你的书或泡沫块。 MacBook Pro的前端朝向您,抬起右侧并再次支撑起来。
    • 取出你的书或泡沫块。

    • MacBook Pro的前端朝向您,抬起右侧并再次支撑起来。

  69. 在两个中央电池之间涂上少量除胶剂(约1毫升),使其流入其他的电池下方。
    • 在两个中央电池之间涂上少量除胶剂(约1毫升),使其流入其他的电池下方。

    • 等待2-3分钟让粘胶去除剂继续渗透。

  70. 将塑料卡的一个角落滑到最终电池的高边缘下方。 将卡推入电池下方,切割固定到位的粘合剂。 不要试图完全分开这个电池。 将塑料卡留在原处,以防止其重新粘附。
    • 将塑料卡的一个角落滑到最终电池的高边缘下方。

    • 将卡推入电池下方,切割固定到位的粘合剂。

    • 不要试图完全分开这个电池。 将塑料卡留在原处,以防止其重新粘附。

  71. 如果还没有这样做,请提起并翻转左侧的两个电池,以清除最后一个电池的外侧边缘。 如果还没有这样做,请提起并翻转左侧的两个电池,以清除最后一个电池的外侧边缘。
    • 如果还没有这样做,请提起并翻转左侧的两个电池,以清除最后一个电池的外侧边缘。

  72. 重复您在中右单元电池上使用的过程,以完成分离中央 - 左侧电池上的粘胶: 将塑料卡的一个角推到塑料电池框下方,并在剩余的电池的粘合边缘下方。 将您的卡一直滑到电池下面,并将其留在电池上以防止电池重新粘附。
    • 重复您在中右单元电池上使用的过程,以完成分离中央 - 左侧电池上的粘胶:

    • 将塑料卡的一个角推到塑料电池框下方,并在剩余的电池的粘合边缘下方。

    • 将您的卡一直滑到电池下面,并将其留在电池上以防止电池重新粘附。

  73. 取出插入最后一个电池下面的第一张卡。 取出插入最后一个电池下面的第一张卡。
    • 取出插入最后一个电池下面的第一张卡。

  74. 在两个中央电池单元的下面各放一张塑料卡片,拧紧并抬起两张卡片,将MacBook Pro中的电池,塑料框架和电池板完全分开。 在两个中央电池单元的下面各放一张塑料卡片,拧紧并抬起两张卡片,将MacBook Pro中的电池,塑料框架和电池板完全分开。
    • 在两个中央电池单元的下面各放一张塑料卡片,拧紧并抬起两张卡片,将MacBook Pro中的电池,塑料框架和电池板完全分开。

  75. 提起并取出电池。 在重新安装你的新电池之前,从MacBook Pro的机身上除去剩余的胶。
    • 提起并取出电池。

    • 在重新安装你的新电池之前,从MacBook Pro的机身上除去剩余的胶。

    • 幸运的话,你可以用手指慢慢地将每条胶条撕开

    • 否则,你就得用除胶剂浸泡没条胶2-3分钟,然后用塑料工具刮掉它们。这颇具工作量,请耐心点。

    • 除去任何残留的除胶剂,并给你的MacBook Pro几分钟晾干。

    • 你的iFixit工具包里的新电池上已经粘好了胶。在你揭掉胶上的膜之前先矫正好电池的位置,然后再把每个电池组件严丝合缝地放到位置上。如果你的新电池上有一些在原来的电池的相同位置没有出现的胶,马上把它们移除。

    • 校准 你新安装的电池: 将电池充电至100%并继续充电至少两小时,然后拔掉电源正常使用你的电脑。当出现低电量警告时,保存你的工作并继续使用电脑直至电量低自动休眠。静置至少5小时后一次性充电至100%。

    • 如果你在安装新电池以后注意到任何异常举动或者问题,也许你需要重置你 MacBook Pro 的 SMC。

    Don’t paste the new battery before complete reassembly and testing.

    Gert Cuykens - 回复

    When positioning the new battery, pay close attention to the alignment of the two screw holes at the top.

    Tammer Saleh - 回复

    I would really appreciate some additional tips on placing the new battery set. I attempted to adhere just the middle two by screwing in the battery management board, but unfortunately I dropped the batteries, and of course, they stuck immediately and needed to be pried out to be seated properly. One I got the middle two placed, I could then peel the backing for the outside four. It’s probably worth mentioning that the outside pair of batteries share space with the speaker assembly, so be careful placing those two.

    Duane Pinkerton - 回复

结论

要重新组装你的设备,请按照该指南并按照逆序重新组装。

115等其他人完成本指南。

特别感谢这些译者︰

100%

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Jeff Suovanen

于2013年08月06日注册

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创作了216篇指南

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68 Comments

Do I need to remove all these things just to replace the battery or can I just remove the connectors above the battery than the battery?

Tony - 回复

I just went through this process yesterday, and today wondered why I needed to take all that crap out, because I don’t remember anything blocking the battery removal, that would require removing the speakers, logic board, etc. I think it’s because of the acetone adhesive solvent. It’s powerful stuff that can easily damage the system. Maybe, if you are able to get the battery out without the solvent, you can skip all the other stuff. I will say, however, that in my system, it seemed like the adhesive is real solid. It felt like I was pressing the card up against aluminum studs in the frame, until the solvent loosened it up. If you try to remove the battery without the solvent, be very careful not to use excessive force and warp your frame.

Edward Harvey -

I made it within 1 hour doing Steps 1-5, then Steps 46-50.

I removed battery heating the aluminium frame in the location of battery pack on the opposite side of the frame with NTE HG-300D Mini Heat Gun, and then gently peeling this battery pack with plastic spudger. You may need to reheat the area several times.

For 2 central battery elements you can't heat aluminium frame because they are below touchpad, so I peeled batteries a little bit with spudger, heated the underneath gently, and then peeled it again. Also dental floss could help cutting the glue underneath the battery.

pzhivulin - 回复

Thanks for your fast approach, worked fine for me as well! I did not use any glue dissolver at all.

Tom Vandepoel -

Same for me, about an hour. I didn’t use a heat gun, just finagled the tip of the adhesive dissolver around the edges and otherwise followed the directions using the plastic cards. That dissolver is great stuff, worked twice as fast as the instructions.

Bob Compono -

These batteries appear to be actual Apple batteries. How did iFixit remove them from the case? If iFixit didn't, were they able to get replacement batteries directly from Apple (since the adhesive is already installed)?

plink53 - 回复

Battery seems to be working fine but trackpad and keyboard no longer work. They were working fine before I changed the battery. I checked the trackkpad cable but that seems fine and inserted properly. Reset SMC but still not working.

Jaime Hovey - 回复

Might want to disconnect and reconnect both cables (in the case of the trackpad cable, do this at both ends). Compare with the photos to make sure they're inserted far enough. Check carefully for any sign of physical damage to the cables, connectors, or the board itself. If you continue to have trouble, consider taking your question over to the Answers forum for more suggestions. Good luck!

Jeff Suovanen -

Thanks Jeff! I'm afraid this repair is a wash. Trackpad won't even click. I will ask around.

Jaime Hovey - 回复

Jeff, thanks so much for this guide. I was able to resurrect a Mid-2015 MBP that was thrown away due to water damage! It was stuck in an automatic boot loop whenever AC power was connected and would not even power on via the battery alone.

I admit that I did not do a complete teardown nor did I use the kit with the adhesive remover. I was able to lever the outer battery sections up enough with a plastic spudger to slide an old, used gift card underneath them to forcefully cut through the adhesive.

Here’s the System Information output for the installed battery part:

Battery Information:

  Model Information:

  Serial Number: <redacted>

  Manufacturer: DP

  Device Name: bq20z451

  Pack Lot Code: 0

  PCB Lot Code: 0

  Firmware Version: 702

  Hardware Revision: 1

  Cell Revision: 3241

  Charge Information:

  Charge Remaining (mAh): 8635

  Fully Charged: No

  Charging: Yes

  Full Charge Capacity (mAh): 8723

  Health Information:

  Cycle Count: 1

  Condition: Normal

  Battery Installed: Yes

  Amperage (mA): 900

  Voltage (mV): 13029

codelogic - 回复

Great job Jeff. Didn’t seem like there was a need to remove everything, but I’m glad I did. It’s all clean and working perfectly again. Best of all, no bulging battery warping the case!

Ben DeJong - 回复

Just did this today, January 17, 2018. Took me about 3 hours. The instructions were awesome. Taking the battery out was actually far easier than I imagined it would be. Really appreciate you guys making this guide. Apple was going to charge me $1500 to replace my battery, but I did it myself for $120.

Eric Warncke - 回复

Responding to Jeff: how did you reset your smc without a working keyboard??

JCRGH - 回复

I recommend people to check out the thread trick soo you dont need to remove all the components inside! You basicllyy just need to take of the backplate. remove two screws on the battery frame and then use a thread to cut the gluestrips between battery and bessel. I used builder string for leveling as its strong and thin. I used roughly 5 min to remove the battery from the bessel, and then another 30min to clean of the old glue. I recommend the Arctic Thermal removal (mainly for cleaning cpu), it resolves the glue at makes it gel like, then use a spachelor like the one you get un screen replacement kit and scrape it of, use a cloth or toilet paper to remove the liquid undderway. Since its in such a small bottle with drop adding you do not risk damaging the screen etc due to the acid. One of my most easiest repairs i have done! ifixit should update their approach with an alternative. Youtube “macbook retina battery replacement“ ;)

svennand - 回复

I agree with everyone that you don’t need to go through the entire process. Do Steps 1-5, then 46-50. WARNING: use as little force as possible when removing the battery, as you most certainly will rip or disconnect something else if you are not careful. Take special care with the keyboard/trackpad ribbon. When I did this repair I somehow ruined the keyboard/trackpad ribbon, and neither worked until I put another ribbon in—which is very easy. They cost pennies to replace, so you might even want to have some on hand. Everything works perfectly now!

Jaime Hovey - 回复

I just did the swap, followed all the directions (and it did make sense to me to do it properly and remove the speakers and everything to avoid damaging anything) . Either way, when I booted back up and am doing the initial discharge, my battery indicator has turned red and says “service battery” I am not sure if this is just because its in the middle of calibration, or if there is a problem. I assume there is no problem, but worth mentioning that it showed up.

Sam Massa - 回复

Did a full calibration cycle (that took for EVER because this battery (thankfully) lasts so much longer than my old tired one!!! woohoo!) All is well. If you get the red battery light just complete a full calibration cycle and bob’s your uncle!

Sam Massa - 回复

Heh… I ended up opening up the most CPU intensive programs I could muster to drain the battery for calibration. It definitely did last longer that I was anticipating. Yay for a fresh battery!

Mikel Pickett -

Worked for me too—I followed all the steps before I read the comment thread here. Wasn’t that big a deal, although I can’t say I was confident that everything was going to work when I switched it on, but all is good. Great instructions—thanks!

Geoffrey Peake - 回复

my mac won’t start after the replacement. booting in “scan for new hardware” mode, says that the new installed battery is faulty…

iulian miu - 回复

Being as cheap as I am, I bought the battery from Ebay. Tried to be lazy and just pop the battery out of the computer. Opened the case. . .Well it actually flew open as one of the original cells were swollen. Tried to pry the battery out with freeze spray, hoping to freeze the crappy adhesive and hoping it will just pop out. Spark. . .Hiss. . .Smoke. Long story short, I ended up buying iFixit’s Adhesive remover kit. Amazing product. The included cards just cut through that crappy adhesive like butter. Also, I did the repair the long way and took everything out. Best to be safe than sorry as there is a risk in damaging the sensitive logic board with the adhesive remover or with your tools trying to free the crappy batteries from the crappy adhesive. Right now I’m calibrating the battery. Wish I bought the battery from iFixit in the first place to support such a great company with great products. Kudos!

Jeffy - 回复

Went slow and steady. Followed all the steps. Seem to have pulled it off. Everything appears to be working. Amazing guide and great price on the battery. Thank you.

Raza Ahmad - 回复

Why did Apple make this so difficult?

Gary Gruda - 回复

Worked well, but the screen’s black. I tried resetting the SMC, zapping PRAM, and removed/replaced the display connector, but I’ve still got the same problem. FWIW, an external Thunderbolt/MiniDisplay Port screen works w/o an issue.

Anyone have any ideas?

Andy Mowrey - 回复

@amowrey Just a guess, but you might want to check the display cable in steps 37-38. Make sure the socket is clean and the cable is fully inserted and locked in place.

Jeff Suovanen -

Did This Repair using some waterproof pvc playing cards, a syringe squeeze bottle with 99.9% isopropyl and a black stick. Took about 15 minutes to free the battery, just watch out for the flex cables on the trackpad and its no problem. No real need to gut the entire frame. Would of been a bit easier with some heat applied to the outter most cells.

Joshua Sites - 回复

Replaced my battery today, everything works perfectly. Went through steps 1-5 and then 46-50. There is literally no need to disassemble the entire laptop. Thanks for this repair kit :)

Pavel Denisjuk - 回复

By starting at 45, didn’t you meet problems with the two speakers standing in the way? They limit a lot the space in which you can pour the liquid to soften the glue, and are in the way when inserting tools to lift the outer batteries. I’d really like to follow the same procedure and avoid disassembling everything, but I am wondering if I am able to. Maybe is possible to remove partially the speakers? Their cables run under the motherboard so I guess they can’t be taken out without a full disassembly, but maybe they can just be lifted a little? Thanks for any suggestion.

Andrea Viceré -

I replaced my battery after being inspired by the instructions on the process. My MacBook is out of warranty and I suspected Apple would charge me several hundred dollars to fix it and require my laptop for at least a couple days. I didn’t like that proposition and decided to brave the DIY repair.

.

I bought the kit from IFixIt and received it about a week later. I’ve seen the comments about only doing the first five and last five steps. My experience with these types of things is that it’s usually best to clear as much out of the way as possible in case something goes wrong. Fortunately, little went wrong for me by following the instructions provided (well written and sufficiently descriptive).

.

I took my time and made sure I was patient when pulling cables as many of them have seemingly fragile locking mechanisms. Very much appreciate the author’s attention to detail and willingness to produce such a helpful work. As an homage to the DIY process, I made a time lapse of my effort (https://youtu.be/l4J6SFOrCQI).

MIGUEL JARDINE - 回复

Replaced a battery today, guide was very helpful and the repair went perfectly.

My Mac had a swollen battery, to the point where the chassis was bent outward both ways and the laptop wasn’t closing properly. Didn’t notice this early on since it serves as a desktop machine for me and I’m using external displays, mouse and keyboard. There are no Apple service centers in my area, so my only option was to do it myself.

There’s probably no real need to completely disassemble it (acetone, when it reacts with an adhesive used in a mac, turns into a jelly-like substance with no actual risk of flooding the internal components), but I did this anyway just to clean out all the dust inside. Now my mac is as flat, as cold and as silent as new. :)

Thanks for a great guide and kit!

Aivar Kavshevich - 回复

I ordered the battery replacement not really knowing how difficult a surgery it was going to be. I’ve always repaired my old laptops, but never needed to do anything super major like removing the logic board. After the kit arrived, I began to review the replacement guide and was suddenly feeling really overwhelmed. The iFixit tutorial however was a fantastic resource.

Just take your time and be diligently organized and thoroughly follow each step. I used sticky notes and bottle caps to keep and label all the screws and pieces I was removing from the machine. When putting the logic board back in, watch to make sure all the ribbon cables that need reconnected don’t get buried. It’s pretty easy to do.

After everything went back together, the machine powered up and has been working flawlessly. After calibrating the battery, I’m totally satisfied! Thanks, iFixit!

Mikel Pickett - 回复

Great guide! Done the replacement today and everything went well.

Thanks,

Matej

Matej Svržnjak - 回复

just performed this fix and it took less than hour. skipped most of the steps, just doing 1-5 and 46-49.

after CAREFULLY removing trackpad ribbon (46-49) all you need to do is apply solvent and wait 5mins, then reapply solvent and wait another few minutes. from there you don’t even need string; just wedge the card tool and slowly work it under the batteries at the far edges, and proceed to center. that’s it. just make sure your solvent really has the time to saturate the old adhesive. also, running the battery down will help keep the area warm which definitely helps with getting things loosened up.

hope that helps. great tutorial and as usual, excellent product from ifixit.

vas - 回复

Awesome guide, really detailed, every step carefully written down. I had no problems at all to get my MacBook up and running again.

It’s actually easier than it seems, the whole process took me about 1h 30min.

Here’s a time-lapse video for those who are interested in it: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=yeWb7Yzu...

Jan - 回复

Mode opératoire bien fait et efficace, échange batterie effectué et réussi en 2 h 45 minutes. Merci

Erick ANDRE - 回复

I Just completed this. I also skipped the disassembly of the whole machine as others have pointed out above. My battery was enormously swollen so much so that I wasn’t sure how to get the solvent in underneath it. I was able to push the battery up enough with the plastic cards to get the liquid in and start it working.

I think the swelling also meant that the battery had partially unglued itself so that made it a touch better.

Good luck all who try and thanks to iFixit for their amazing kit which is perfect in every way.

I had no options in Israel that I would trust to do this.

Brian of London - 回复

Completed the guide very well without removing all of the parts.

Good job! Thank you.

alexseceleanu - 回复

Just finished battery replacement. Works great. The guide is perfect. Thank you, IFixit!

Also, I used the opportunity to remove all dirt and dust that gathered inside.

I hope, it going to be cooler now - with funs free of dust.

yukpun - 回复

Just followed the guide successfully. Does anyone know what the case is for re-adhering the replacement battery after going through all that trouble removing adhesive in the first place?

Isani Cayetano - 回复

@isanicayetano It’s a soft-shell battery and needs to be firmly secured in place, so that it doesn’t move around and get damaged, which among other things could cause a fire. Unfortunately since there are no screws or brackets for securing the battery in this design, you have to just re-glue it.

Jeff Suovanen -

Hi, can you advise on the shelf life of the iFixit supplied battery? For example, would a battery bought now still be ok to fit in six months, twelve months, or 24 months?

Thanks

Davo - 回复

@davo_b Technically that should be fine, although the battery may be quite dead by then—so after installing it, be prepared to charge it for a while before the system can boot up. However, the battery warranty is for 1 year from date of purchase, so I wouldn’t recommend waiting quite so long.

Jeff Suovanen -

Jeff Hi, many thanks for the quick reply. I have already purchased and, following your excellent instructions, fitted an iFixit Macbook Pro battery without any problems. I believe my MBP is of a spec that should serve me for several more years. I think the main problem in extending my MBP’s life seems to be the availability of a replacement battery though, fingers crossed, I may not need one for another couple of years. How long do you think iFixit will be able to offer the mid-2015 MBP replacement batteries? I’d hope to purchase another replacement to keep my MBP going before the battery becomes obsolete.

Kind regards

Davo - 回复

@davo_b That’s great! As far as future replacements, you may be worrying needlessly—demand for MacBook Pro batteries is pretty steady, and we’re still offering batteries for Core Duo models released over a decade ago. We’re supporting your model for the foreseeable future, so barring catastrophe, I think you can safely check back in a year or two and decide then. Our stock of that battery is a little low at the moment, but that’s part of the normal ebb and flow of inventory—so rest easy, it’s not going away. :) Hope this helps!

Jeff Suovanen -

I just followed the instructions, installed my new battery, and now my computer won’t boot past the login screen. The battery symbol on the login screen shows a triangle with an exclamation point. Network boot is not working either. I’m wondering if I got a bad battery? I emailed customer service last night but haven’t heard back. Has anyone here had this issue?

Garrett Porter - 回复

I am also having this issue. Gonna search google to try and figure it out unless someone can reply on here what is going on?

Kevin Boen Vergara -

Either a problem with the installation, or a faulty battery. This has been discussed in our forum—Replaced battery now I cannot log in—and Google will certainly turn up more. If you need a replacement battery, the customer service team will fix you up as soon as they can. Good luck!

Jeff Suovanen -

I disagree that it’s easy to go straight from step 1 - 5 to removing the battery. In my case, the battery was misaligned to one side, which made the gap between the speaker and battery too steep to slide the ifixit-card underneath. Completed the swap be following the complete guide, which tbh. isn’t too hard. The most time i used on removing the batteries anyway.

Bjørn Wiegell - 回复

Just to add to the confidence of others. I, too, did the repair without all this disassembly. Once the cover is off the back, take the two screws out of the trackpad logic board connection (step 26). then unplug that ribbon cable and pull away from the battery. You can remove the other end of this, but you don’t need to just fold it back. There are two more torx screws holding the battery in, remove them (step 50) then unplug the battery connection. That’s it, then pried up one battery one the end and got some nylon string under it (dental floss didn’t work, broke) and saw back and forth. Once the end section of battery is loose, I used a combination of string and the plastic cards to saw back and forth to cut the double sided tape. Took me 30 minutes. Don’t get me wrong, the ifixit plan is solid and the kit is great but if you can avoid steps, it’s better. less to go wrong in re assembly.

tvstudio65 - 回复

I did this today veeeery carefully. Took probably 2.5 hours start to stop. Booted laptop back up and everything works fine. I was tempted to not do all the logic board etc. but decided to go by iFixit’s guide. Worked well, but be patient, careful and gentle. I made a large piece of paper and placed components with a note of the step number as they came off. Then was easy to locate when re-assembling.

LARS BARFOD - 回复

As already mentioned above, just wanted to confirm that the whole procedure is *not* necessary.

Just do steps 1-5, 46-50 and then use a heat gun to heat the bottom part of the laptop, and a plastic card to carefully detach the old battery by cutting through the adhesive.

It’s super easy and can be done within an hour.

I think this guide should be updated.

Fulvio V - 回复

In order to soften the adhesive, you’d typically need to heat it to around 70° C or higher, often for an extended period. Using a heat gun, it’s fairly easy to overcook it and set the battery on fire, especially if you’re new at this. Including a heat gun would also significantly increase the cost to assemble and ship the battery kit. Happy that it worked out for you, but I hesitate to recommend that method to everyone.

Jeff Suovanen -

Many thanks for these really excellent instructions. Considering that they enabled me as an absolute novice to replace the battery successfully, the authors should be nominated for the literature Nobel prize.

Volker Friese - 回复

This is a bizarre instruction manual. Inexplicably it says to remove all manner of extremely delicate components that are not in the way and seem to have nothing to do with replacing the battery. It could be, as others have said, to protect delicate parts from the adhesive remover. I didn’t need that either and managed to remove the battery by simply prying it out gently. Perhaps the adhesive on others was tougher than mine. Anyway, I’d be hesitant to follow this if I were you.

Kathleen Seward - 回复

I went the easy route and just replaced the battery without taking out the guts of the unit, and it mostly was very straight-forward using the 1-5 and 46-50 technique.

I ran in to two issues. First, step 47, the ZIF connector for the trackpad cable. I found it much easier to take off the cover and connector on the top of the battery rather than the bottom of the battery. Do what works for you. Second, the two cells in the middle were an absolute bear to get out! And I do wish the instructions were a little more clear on explaining that the frame around them are part of the battery assembly and not of the laptop housing! If they get bent a little, no big deal - they’re coming out anyway!

But most importantly - TEST THE LAPTOP BEFORE FINAL REASSEMBLY! Mine worked just fine, which was great. One thing that does concern me about the iFixit battery: the sticky stuff covers 80%+ of the battery - those things are going to be a bear to replace if I ever need to!!!

Wayne West - 回复

Fantastic guide, everything worked. It just takes patience and time, a few hours for me. I bought the ifixit kit and everything was as shown.

The last few steps with the battery were not needed for my situation. I had puffy batteries and could insert acetone under the middle ones like the rest. No need to use two cards from both sides.

murdocca - 回复

Hello,

To anyone asking if it works, yes it does. It is not easy to remove the battery cuz it’ll take sometime but if you are good enough to do the job and repair it yourself then just work on the battery and avoid moving all the parts. If you’re a noob, then love all the parts and then work on the battery. WARNING: just like they said, the glue remover is super strong so make sure not to spill any on anywhere else but underneath the battery to cut the glue.

hope it helps.

Daniel Mazariego - 回复

Hello guys,

How many times do I have to calibrate this battery? I replaced it yesterday myself and everything went well. Today, while using my computer, I noticed that the battery was at 69% then rebooted and went down to 6%. Is there something wrong or did I not calibrate it right?

Daniel Mazariego

Daniel Mazariego - 回复

@poporobright Sorry for the trouble! Looks like you’re already getting some good advice over in our Answers forum (Battery replacement odd behavior ). You shouldn’t have to calibrate the battery more than once, so try the suggested troubleshooting steps—and if that doesn’t do the trick, touch base with the customer support team and see if they want to swap you out for a different battery in case yours has a defect of some kind. Good luck!

Jeff Suovanen -

Did anyone have problems with a faulty replacement battery where battery is detected but it doesn’t charge and status is “replace now” ? I have already send it back for a new one coming, i’m afraid to be stuck in the same situation with another faulty battery.

arnau marti - 回复

I also did 1-5 and 46-74. The adhesive remover works great, it comes out of the bottle fast so start with a small hole when you cut the opening. Use the remover sparingly and you’ll have no problem. I spread the remover on the edge of the card as I slid it under that battery in stead of letting the remover “run” under. The whole process took about 45 minuets with no issues. My battery was swollen and not covered by Apple’s recall, just be careful and you shouldn’t have any trouble.

Russell Smith - 回复

Hey buddy,

Did you have any problems with this battery at all?

What OS version are you running? Have you noticed any issues with the laptop at all? Or the battery? Please let me know. I'm on my third battery already coming tomorrow.

Thanks for the help!!

Daniel Mazariego -

My batteries had heated and swollen enough to destroy the factory adhesive pretty much. also they seemed to have less adhesive on them than the replacement batteries did. So it was fairly simple to pry out the factory battery without using the solvent. YMMV.

wengland - 回复

Excellent instructions. The repair was a success and the laptop, which blew it’s charging circuit from an iced-tea mishap, was resurrected! Thanks!d

dhwn - 回复

I did also 1-5 and 46-74. There was no need to use the adhesive remover. As suggested somewhere on YouTube, I would recommend starting to pry the second and fourth sections, since there’s an aluminum ridge on the side of the motherboard on which you can apply lever. Then you can proceed with the outer sections, and finally attack the central ones. All seem to be good, the only minor issue being that the trackpad feedback seems to me a bit less strong than it used to be; I might have applied excessive pull when taking out the central sections of the battery? Or it might be because the swollen battery acted as a resonance chamber? To stay on the safe side, I would advice using the adhesive remover at least on those sections. Anyway the trackpad is fully functional and the feedback is sufficient, so overall I am happy.

Andrea Viceré - 回复

Bought the battery kit and with the instructions was able to get the old batteries out and new one in. Working Perfectly and like new! Thanks iFixit and the guide author. Saved me hundreds! Took about an hour being very cautious with screws and connectors.

My original battery was out of warranty by only 3 months. Batteries were swollen to the point of putting severe pressure on case and track pad.

Nathan Taylor - 回复

Perfect fix — thank you. From start to finish it took me 4 hours.

When you actually open up your computer it may be a bit stressful — the reality is that one mistake could potentially damage your entire computer. It helped me A LOT to take things slow. Go through the directions before you start so you know what is expected and you are not surprised — then everything will be fine. A few tips: 1) I labeled note cards with the step number, and placed the parts I took out of the computer onto the cards — makes things very organized. 2) Work somewhere where you won’t be bothered or have unexpected visitors. My friends visit me frequently with dogs, so, I texted them and asked they don’t enter my room until I let them know. 3) Take it slow and feel comfortable. I wore something cozy and made sure to stay hydrated and focused. Feel free to take a break if you are getting sloppy — drink some water, walk around, go pee, whatever you need to do.

Josh Barry - 回复

Just got a “service battery” warning on my MBP 2015 15”, is it possible to put the adhesive remover along the edge of the card? Or will it be best to take all components out?

JXC - 回复

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