简介
按照这个指南来移除或者更换在你的MacBook Pro（15英寸，带有Retina显示屏，2013年末）中的SSD
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从后盖盖和主机壳夹扣处抬起，从 MacBook Pro上取下后盖。
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将取下的后盖放到一边。
Does anyone noticed that the bottom cover and the bottom case is actually linked with the black plastic near the battery?! After the first time you open the cover, it will be impossible to put it back to the original place. Does the critical?! Thanks a lot for informing
I was able to simply push and click those clips back into place before I did the screwing.
Tim Peat -
I truly believe this is placebo and the 10*C difference is because in the process the dust was removed from the fan/heat sink rather then the thermal "magic" paste.
This is a "PC" habit.
On the other hand, all the cases and protections out there have a bad effect on cooling (not sleeves or pouches) because the whole aluminum body helps dissipate heat.
I've never had any problems with any mac regarding heat (they do get hot, but it is OK).
Whenever you feel heat from electronic device means the heat radiates away from it.. which means the cooling is doing a good job :).
Hey,
Writing about dust and dirt, do you know any cleaning products for the interior of the mac. i mean how do you clean your laptop, pc, etc..
Regards
This is untrue. Over time thermal paste will dry up and crack and not provide good coverage between the device and the cooler. The paste massively improves the thermal transfer between the chip and the heatsink. If you do not believe in the magic paste then you should wipe it all off and apply just a little bit or none at all and then compare temperatures. You will see the paste is responsible for a big reduction in temperature.
If you are following this how-to because liquid/coffee splashed in through the back vents, WAIT UNTIL THE END to clean any liquid spills on the bottom panel. Use them as your map for cleaning and QA guide for checking until you are finished with your cleanup of logic board and other items.
auntialias - 回复
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揭开盖住电池接口的警告标签。
Have laptop charging issues after this. When fully charged and i plug in magsafe it starts with green, then turns red and stays red (like if it was charging). Status bar says NOT charging. If i use battery a little bit (down to 69%) magsafe does the same (green then stay red). Status bar says battery 69% NOT charging. and it seems to be true. Any suggestions?
Double check the connection from the battery to the logic board and the logic board socket itself... Might have damaged by disconnect/reconnect.
67b5ebab Good question !
Why is this necessary ?
This step is necessary to prevent any discharging, arcing, friction/static charges from damaging any of the extremely delicate and intricate parts of this (or most any) electrical system. In practice, you should even be wearing an anti-static band or be working on an anti-static bench even with the battery disconnected so your body doesn't create any unintentional charges.
One of the first things you should learn in electronics repair and and electrical in general is to cut the power source whenever possible before performing any work. Some systems have schedulers/triggers set that will wake the system up (even when closed) to perform updates and other maintenance tasks as to not eat up CPU and RAM during 'peak hours'. The last thing you need is to have your $2,000 laptop turn on while pulling an SSD (which, correct me if wrong, isn't a plug-and-play based device) which could do some serious corruption and/or damage; when all you had to do was peel a sticker and plug.
Hope that helps!!
~the more you know~
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使用撬棒平头的那端，轻轻地将电池接口直接从逻辑板上的插座中撬出。
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弯曲电池电缆，确保电池接口不会意外接触逻辑板。
I ordered the whole kit, but seeing how much tedious effort it was to take out so many parts so they wouldn't be damaged by the solvent, I skipped from here to step 34 and only used the supplied cards (credit-card sized) with patience and persistence to free the battery sections from the backing. Success! Then I used a q-tip to apply the solvent to remove the remnants of the adhesive from the aluminum case. My battery was very swollen, so it was like removing little pillows. I think the swelling may have helped to give me additional access with the cards to free it. Success! My MBP is back up and running, and now the trackpad clicks again and it sits flat on a table!
So no need basically to unscrew all the mac
Bert0ld0 -
Joel - the purpose of all of the trouble in removing the logic board is to make sure that you don’t damage anything when you start pull out the battery. After this step - it’s true, you have about 12 connectors and dozens of screws to unplug, but I didn’t have any major problems.
REASSEMBLY - I had to use alot of force to get the official IFIXIT battery connect to push into place to actually connect. I was worried that one of the wires would stress and break. It worked, but it was not super easy this part.
I also skipped down to step 50. I stuck a piece of 1/2 inch weather stripping across the middle of the top cover of the laptop to maintain a pitch on the unit so the adhesive remover stayed away from the other components. I applied the remover and used a piece of string to cut through the adhesive strips. I owed the plastic tool from the kit to position the string behind the top of each cell and cut through one ata a time. The battery came out in about 15 minutes. The directions were very informative and useful but I thought the risks associated with dismantling the laptop and reassembling it again were greater. I could not have done it without the details presented. Thank you.
Having broken a connector on a logic board in the past, I worried about all the steps. But I understand the disaster that can occur if cleaning fluid contacts the logic board. Weighing costs and benefits, I also did not remove the logic board. I loosened up the speakers (since only two screws could be removed) to give me space to slide the cards under the battery cells. Using the two cards, sometimes sliding one over the other, I was able to remove the battery in 15- 20 minutes. Removing the remaining adhesive was VERY tedious. Eventually I settled on CAREFULLY applying small amounts of remover with the syringe and using the spudger (both pointy and broad ends) to scrape the remainders off. I cleaned the residual with Q-tips dipped in remover (buy a big box of Q-tips), refastened the speakers, installed the new battery, closed the case and voila.
Question, on the first image above you can read a serial and other information ... The creator of the guide could you confirm if it corresponds exactly to the Apple serial on the box? I wonder why I had the laptop in assistance to replace the GPU, and other problems were born once I returned ... to which removed the cover I saw this sticker and I immediately had doubts about it.
I too found the need to completely teardown the laptop onerous and risky. I’m not certified in anything hardware but I’ve been doing my own repairs for a while. I watched the video referenced above and read the comments there. With some changes, here is what I did, which worked perfectly and minimized the risk, for a whole additional $3 in parts, just myself and in under an hour:
1. Go to hardware store and get 2 4” bolts ($1 each) and a coil of 20 gauage galvanized wire.
2. Wrap one end of the wire a few times around one bolt, then tie it off with a knot. Do the same with the other bolt, leaving about 10” of wire between the two.
3. Follow steps 1-4 in this guide
4. Slip the wire under one of the outer batteries (use a card or spudger to help get the wire underneath
5. Grip both bolts with one hand and rock them back and forth, pulling the wire under the battery, using your other hand to hold the case. This should take about 2 seconds (seriously). Repeat for other outer batteries
(continued)
6. Pull the plastic frames away from the left and right sides of the center batteries.
7. Repeat steps 4 and 5 for the two center batteries.
8. Jump to step 55, then reassemble.
Note: when installing the new battery, ensure the part closest to you is UNDER the two plastic tabs.
Worked perfectly.
Link to video: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=fupkPz55...
Note: using the nylon thread with that much effort is crazy. Use the wire or fishing line.
i just got my Kit and started the procedure, i decided to try if i can get the bulged batteries out with a fishing line, which worked fine. No need to use any solvent and even not too much force was needed to get the line under the batteries. I was able to remove the batteries in about 5min, used another 10min to clean the case from the residue, and put in the new battery. All togehter about 20min of work. I´m very happy with the result, Macbook stays now back on its feet, closes correctly and trackpad works as expected.
Also departed from procedure immediately after STEP # 4 as per JOEL’s recommendation …used a small chunk of fishing line and it worked sans solvent…easily ! Spudger worked quite well to initially position the string /line & the ifixit ( ‘credit’ ) cards were nice for final dislodging of each battery segment from the last bits of residual gooey adhesive , AFTER working the fishing line back & forth down the length of the battery as much as possible. With the old battery out of the way, I used a razor blade to clean out the remaining bits of adhesive gunk. ( Decided NOT to use solvent here, either.) Took me every bit of 1-hour.
One thing that helped ,too, was a cheap pair of cotton gloves coated on the palm side w/ latex. This kept my fingers comfortable from the pressure of the fishing line & allowed more of a range of force …since I wasn’t wincing from saw-cutting myself !
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拧下把SSD固态硬盘固定到主板的 3.1 mm T5 Torx 螺丝。
When I got to this step I realized the screw was stripped. I'm unsure if it was stripped by my efforts -- I used the prescribed P5 screwdriver that was also used for the other screws, and the screwdriver still works when putting the lid back on.
So to extract the stripped screw in Step 5 I've ordered iFixit's Precision Screw Extractor Set.
Now I'm wondering if I also need to find a replacement screw since I probably won't be able to use the stripped one again after it's been extracted? The screw is called: 3.1 mm T5 Torx screw as per this guide .. the best I can find on eBay are screws called: 1,4 X 3,1 mm Torx T5 or 1,5 X 3,1 mm Torx T5 ... will one of these work? Would I be able to just go to a hardware store and find the proper screw or is it a specialty item?
I'm sure you've long since figured it out, but for the benefit of anyone else reading this, a P5 is not a T5. It's a different screwdriver. The driver for the screws on the outside of the case will not work on the screw holding the SSD. I'm not sure why they left it off in the list of tools at the top.
The screws on the outside of the case are Pentalobe.
The screw for the SSD is Torx.
Both drivers are (now) on the list of required tools.
(However, my devices both have a T6 head, not T5. May have been after-market.)
For the Macbook Pro Retina 15" Late 2013 models, I've heard the SSD is soldered to the logic board. This guide is for that model, but it doesn't address the soldering issue. Have I just been misinformed on this issue? Has anyone tried it with the late 2013 model yet?
The SSD is not soldered to the board. You maybe thinking of the RAM which is soldered. (thank you apple) *dripping sarcasm*
I was needing to send my mid 2014 15" MacBook Pro in for a keyboard repair, and my company IT department shipped me a loaner of the same model except that it had a smaller SSD in it than mine, and said I should swap the SSDs between the two and then send mine back with the smaller drive in it to get fixed. I've been unable to swap the drives because neither mine nor the loaner (which are both the same model) appear to have a T5 screw holding the SSD in place. Both of them appear to have a T4, not a T5 (whatever it is is smaller than a T5 anyway, so I'm guessing it's a T4). So now I'm on hold until I can find a T4 screwdriver.
OK, got the new tool set, and yes, it really is actually a T5 screw, you just need a really sharp driver. My existing T5 driver was getting a little dull on the tip. So make sure you have a really new/precision T5 driver/bit to use (and again I'll point out that ifixit failed to list this tool in the list of needed tools at the top).
Both of my A1398 computers (Mid-2012 Retina 15” and Late 2013 Retina 15”) have a screw that my T6 bit fits perfectly. If using a T5 screwdriver/bit makes your screw seem stripped, try the T6.
(The 2012 was purchased second-hand, and the 2013 was purchased from a dealer known for unauthorized upgrades; it is possible my screws were swapped.)
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如果要重新组装你的设备，请按逆序执行这些指令
如果要重新组装你的设备，请按逆序执行这些指令
40等其他人完成本指南。
12条评论
According to Everymac (http://www.everymac.com/systems/apple/ma...) this would not be possible for late 2013 15" retina models, with PCIe based SSD. So, will these steps also apply to that model? Just want to be really sure!
Levi
I read the whole article, and from what you have written i hope you meant about this part.
"Specifically, the "Mid-2012" and "Early 2013" models use a 6 Gb/s SATA-based SSD whereas the "Late 2013" and "Mid-2014" models use a PCIe 2.0-based SSD. These SSD modules are neither interchangeable nor backwards compatible."
If so it means you can not use an SSD meant for "Mid-2012" and "Early 2013" for a laptop of "Late 2013" and "Mid-2014" or vice-versa, they are still removable and replaceable but please do make sure that the replacement is intended for the model that you have.
I have 1 TB solid state drive and I need more space if you can believe it. Hate working with externals. Is there a 2TB SSD even available for the mac that I could replace on my late 2013 15" MBP retina?
Samsung makes a 2tb and 4tb internal SSD. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B078DPCY3T/ref...
Make sure you’re backing up your system to either an external drive or backblaze since you’re storing so many valuable files. Keeping it all in once place is an easy way to lose it should your drive fail or your computer need to be reset. I’ve lost all the info off my mac twice due to it needing to be reset at apple.
Nicole -
I wish I had read this BEFORE getting a hybrid 2TB replacement drive. I had no idea an SSD was so thin. There is simply no space for even a laptop Hybrid drive. I cleaned my computer a lot though, so all was not lost - and I have an external bootable backup.
I am wondering if anyone knows whether I can replace the connection/cable from the ssd to the logic board? If so, any guides on how to do it?
Thanks in advance,
Alex
It’s a direct connection from the ssd to the board via a slot. There is no cable. Is your socket or the plug part of the ssd broken?
Mike Brady - 回复
The direction say:
Please Note: Upgrade to macOS 10.13 or later, prior to Aura Pro X installation. MacOS 10.13 and later versions include an EFI (firmware) update that adds support for the Aura Pro X to the host computer. If you do not first update the host firmware by installing macOS 10.13 or later onto the existing SSD, the Aura Pro X will not function properly once installed.
what do you do if the internal ssd has already failed?
Rick Floyd - 回复
I keep reading that Macbooks late 2013 and onward do not allow for this hard drive replacement—that is not to say you can’t replace it physically—something about new built in safeguards that won’t allow you to use the new HD? Has anyone heard this? Has anyone had success replacing an existing 1 TB SSD in a late 2013 15” Macbook pro with a 4TB? If so which SSD did you use? If I have a time machine backup to a Drobo (external nas) is that all I need in order to be able to restore after the replacement? Are there special instructions for getting the OS back on the system or will the mac “know what to do”. I used to do this with MS computers all the time but never on a mac. It’s new territory for me. Thanks for any help!
I have a problem where the battery connector comes off like a socket and all you need is a spudger to lift it up. My Macbook on the other hand doesn’t seem to have have a socket. But the wires are connected directly and I am not sure how to disconnect that,
I’ve recently bought a Samsung Evo 970 m.2 ssd but the connection does not match the computer’s and read this was due to needing a 12+16 pin adapter, however this also does not fit my computer. Any info on the correct adapter required for this to be installed?
To remove the back panel there are two different pentalobe screws 2.3mm and 3mm however on the tools list there is only one screwdriver. Will I be able to remove both screws with the same screwdriver?
lantzero - 回复
In my case it worked. Don't know if it was a 2,3 or 3 mm screwdriver
Christian Mohr -
The 2.0 and 2.3 mm measurements are screw lengths, the screw heads are the same sized P5 pentalobe heads. We include the screw lengths so you don't put the wrong screws in the wrong places and end up with screw heads poking out of your device. Hope that clears up some confusion =)
Sam Lionheart -
Yes the same screwdriver will remove both screws, the difference in screws I believe is the length and width but the head is the same.
Mike -
will this unit work with the Mid 2012 Macbook Pro Retina's as well?
drscottgreenwell - 回复
Same question...anyone know? Damaged my 2012 board and if possible would like to upgrade to this unit
cloughenough -
This works for rMBP 2012 late
iyeori -
Woohoo, much easier than I thought... Just got confused with the bottom case screw driver but after figure out it was P5 then everything went smooth.... One thing I wanted to upgrade was the wifi to ac and got one on ebay!
didierma - 回复
If you have 54 Bit Driver kit, please use Star 5 driver to remove screw for rMBP 2012 Late
iyeori - 回复
Where can I find the driver for the MacBook Pro Retina Display 15'4 i7 on your website iFixit please.
Epifanio - 回复
It took about 40 minutes due to an extreme measure of caution but I did it! The only real difficulty was reattaching the screen to the base (yes you have to pry the hinges open) and re-connecting the camera wires. After a few tries the camera wires finally came together. I'm hating Apple for all it's frailty and magical screws but I love ifixit!
floyd - 回复
Simple guide, but it solved my problem. Was wondering why the top two screws weren't going all the way down. Hadn't realized they were 0.7mm shorter.
Emilio Mejia - 回复
I have BootCamp running Win7 on my MBPwRetina15" 2013'Late. I run Visual Studio to build and run my Company's Application which is very CPU & NVidia (specific) intensive. So much so that during a build & run of app I was averaging about 85~95+Celcius!!! And every so often would reach 100Celcius!!! I could not take it anymore so I decided to delve into and re-apply Thermal Paste on the CPU/GPU. I ended up going with CooLaboratory Liquid Pro instead of the traditonal AS5. The original Thermal Paste was pure garbage,,, part of the CPU seemed like it was missing TP. I was scared to do this but it turned out easier than I had imagined. I am currently building the same application and can already observe that the temps average about 75~85 and once in a while will reach 90Celcius. So I am seeing about a 10~15 degree drop in Temps and that makes me very happy!
Alvaro Suarez - 回复
Nice to hear that, i was looking for that kind of information. I have a MBPwRetina 15 Mid 2012 and looking to obtain the best performance!
Jose David Valle -
Woa! Thanks dude! And you follow some guides here for the thermal paste? My mac 15’’ early 2013 heats up a lot but I’m a bit worried about touching anything
Bert0ld0 -
Good to list the bit needed to open the case: P6
brian2burnett - 回复
Much easier than expected. Sounds like several people had trouble with the backlight. It is possible that they damaged something by not first making sure to power down the computer completely with the “Shut Down” command. This should be step 1 before removing the back cover screws. Also as noted all the back cover screws are Apple Pentelope #5 bit, but 2 of the screws are shorter than the others. This bit is is hard to find in most stores. Buy it on line along with the Tork #5 and #8. 11/21/2017
Walt Goede - 回复
Replaced my Magsafe 2 yesterday and it works perfectly on my MBP 15” ea13. However, when I plugged in the charger I heard the startup sound twice and then I got to the login page where I realized the keyboard didn’t respond.
So I thought I should restart the computer so I clicked ”shut down”. But the keyboard is dead. I can’t start it. I haven’t tried to use a USB-keyboard yet..
Any ideas what may have caused this to happen and what component ”handles” the keyboard? Thanks
/JD
Jakob Dahlin - 回复
Not sure if this has been listed.
PRO TIPS from a non-pro:
1 - Keep screws separated and labeled by step # and size.
2 - Be very careful to get screws in properly threaded, its VERY easy to strip the ccrew holes and screws. Especially the case. Not that it happened to me…
3 - It was impossible for me to get all the adhesive off the case from under battery, it left a lot on w/o issue (yet).
4 - Make sure you have Aluminium Foil before starting!
5 - Upgrade the SSD or HDD while your in there!
erin - 回复
Do we remove the logic board purely to get the speaker enclosures out and away from the acetone? Or does it physically block getting the batteries out? Ie. if I wanted to risk the damage to the speakers, could I jump straight to step 34?
Obviously I don’t want to melt the speakers, but I’m kinda weighing that risk against losing a screw or breaking a connector…
Michael Ferenduros - 回复
So I did take the risk and swapped out the battery without doing the logic-board + speaker removal.
Before applying the acetone I put tape on the exposed sides of the speaker-enclosures as best I could - I wrapped the tape, sticky side out, around a card, slid it into the gap, and pressed it onto the speakers. And when applying the acetone, I squirted it as gently as possible onto the side of the battery and let it run down the side, which seemed to help avoid getting too much on the speakers.
The speaker’s plastic turned white in the spots where the acetone touched it, but it looked like surface damage only. Otherwise it was a nice and smooth procedure.
Your milage may vary, obviously.
Michael Ferenduros -