跳转到主内容

简介

Use this guide to replace the I/O board.

    • Before proceeding, power down your MacBook. Close the display and lay it on a soft surface, top-side down.

    • Use a P5 Pentalobe driver to remove ten screws securing the lower case, of the following lengths:

    • Two 9 mm screws

    • Eight 2.6 mm screws

    Pulling the fan cable out was terrifying but you actually just pull on the cable itself. No way to get any leverage at the connector to dislodge it. Did come out easily but like I said, scared me!

    allison - 回复

    Draai de schroefjes voorzichtig los en leg ze op een stabiele plek neer en let erop dat de schroefje een verschillende lengte hebben.

    bwgvanderveer - 回复

    I thought I could replace my 256 Gb SSD with 512? regards

    ola m - 回复

    Do you have good Test Point Voltages? It appears there are silver colored Test points on the I/O Board. I am working on a water spill and trying to troubleshoot if both the I/O board and the Logic need replaced.

    andrew - 回复

    It's probably not necessary but may be a little safer to completely discharge the old battery before replacing it.

    Larry Smith - 回复

    tell a model that was not inferior to the speed of the one in the laptop.

    Thank you

    ilyabuhov - 回复

    Do i need to order tools separately to replace the battery i just ordered?

    anne uhlir - 回复

    im looking for a Logic Board for a

    Apple - MacBook Air® - 13.3" Display - Intel Core i5 - 8GB Memory - 128GB Flash Storage (Latest Model) - Silver Model: MQD32LL/A

    Any help is appreciated.

    Jamie Comstock - 回复

    P5 pentalobe screwdrivers are too big! The correct size for these screws are p4 pentalobe. P5 pentalobe was just able, with difficulty, to turn some of the screws. If the screws were at all tight, my p5 was unable to get them out, and started to strip the screws. A p4 screwdriver fit better and removed the screws with ease. (I was using high quality Wiha brand screwdrivers.)

    William Skinner - 回复

    I had same experience (with MacBook Air 13-inch Mid-2012) … had to get P4, which worked swimmingly

    eric -

    Very simple installation. The screwdriver heads were exactly what we’re needed, one head for the outside case screws, the other for the screws holding the battery in place. The computer started right up. Now to see how the battery holds up, but I have a good feeling about this!

    Dennis Eaton - 回复

    My P5 and the T5 worked perfectly with my early 2015 Air 13”! And it is super fast! Thank you iFixit!

    Pennny Beach - 回复

    The supplied kit and instructions worked perfectly!

    Nikolay Andreev - 回复

    Comments that the P5 pentalobe are too large are absolutely spot-on. There is no way the P5 pentalobe bit I have will work with the MacBook Air without destroying the screws. Hard target search for P4 pentalobe bit in progress…..

    joemoog - 回复

    Bonjour j’aimerais changer mon SSD de 128 Go pour en mettre un de 512 Go. Je ne sais pas ce qu’il faut prendre car il faut qu’il soit compatible avec le macbook air A1466. J’aurais vu un Samsung Evo 970 500 Go mais si je ne me trompe pas, il faut un adaptateur.

    Merci pour votre aide.

    chicco33 - 回复

    oui, vous aurez besoin d’un adaptateur, pour completez le changement.

    Dan -

    The tool kit should include tweezers for re-inserting the battery connector.

    Andre Clement - 回复

    P5 pentalobe worked perfectly for me. Instructions were spot-on. Antenna connections were a bit fiddly to refit but got them in ok.

    michaelquinnell - 回复

    Maybe the problem some are experiencing is that the designations are confusing (blame Apple rather than iFixit). the P2 is also known as PL1. The P5 is also known as PL4. The P6 is also known as PL5. So it is possible to mistake the P6 (PL5) for the P5 (PL4), meaning it (P6-PL5) will be too big, while the P5 (PL4) will be just right. Sort of a 3 Bears explanation, but it is very confusing.

    Thomas Lewis - 回复

    I have not replaced a display on the A1369 but have done many A1466 which is a newer 13” model. They seem really similar and its not clear why one needs to remove the logic board to remove the display. The antenna cables on the A1466 dont have to rest under the logic board but can be tucked in the hinge crevice. Cant this same thing be done with the A1369?

    Sean Love - 回复

  1. Wedge your fingers between the display and the lower case and pull upward to pop the lower case off the Air.
    • Wedge your fingers between the display and the lower case and pull upward to pop the lower case off the Air.

    • Remove the lower case and set it aside.

    There is a nub on the inside of the case which is attached to the battery. When you try to pull it open, it appears to be attached to the plastic casing of the battery, which sometimes splits. I gently unhooked the nub from the battery before removing the case fully. This seems to happen if the battery has suffered some drop damage (plastic parts broken around screws and parts of plastic frame split). Just an FYI in case your lower case doesn't pull away easily.

    Jeannie Crowley - 回复

    When closing this back up make sure that the antenna cable is tucked away neatly

    Gabriel - 回复

    So this is a legit back cover for MacBook Air?

    ASHANTI SMITH - 回复

  2. To ensure that everything is de-energized and won't turn on while you're working, it is recommended that you disconnect the battery. Grab the clear plastic pull tab attached to the battery connector and pull it parallel to the board toward the front edge of the Air.
    • To ensure that everything is de-energized and won't turn on while you're working, it is recommended that you disconnect the battery.

    • Grab the clear plastic pull tab attached to the battery connector and pull it parallel to the board toward the front edge of the Air.

    • Do not lift upward on the connector as you disconnect it or you risk damage to the connector socket.

    after disconnect the battery, press and hold 5*10 seconds the powerbutton on your keyboard to unload the capacitors

    Marcel - 回复

    how does a person put the battery connector back in?- that is the only thing i’m afraid of touching after putting new fan in.

    a smith - 回复

  3. Use the flat end of a spudger to pry the I/O board cable connector up out of its socket on the I/O board.
    • Use the flat end of a spudger to pry the I/O board cable connector up out of its socket on the I/O board.

    When putting this back together, be careful you don’t flip I/O board cable. It will fit, but the computer will not work. You’ll know it’s wrong if it covers the fan.

    Tito Jankowski - 回复

  4. Carefully peel the I/O board cable from the adhesive securing it to the top of the fan.
    • Carefully peel the I/O board cable from the adhesive securing it to the top of the fan.

    • During reassembly, make sure this cable is in the correct orientation. It will fit if reversed, but the laptop will not boot.

    the instructions should really indicate you’re only disconnecting one end of the cable. you disconnect the other end in step 6.

    Tom O'Leary - 回复

  5. The following connector has an especially deep socket. Use care when disconnecting it. While gently pulling the I/O board cable upward near its connection to the logic board, use the flat end of a spudger to pry up on alternating sides of the connector to help "walk" it out of its socket.
    • The following connector has an especially deep socket. Use care when disconnecting it.

    • While gently pulling the I/O board cable upward near its connection to the logic board, use the flat end of a spudger to pry up on alternating sides of the connector to help "walk" it out of its socket.

    • Remove the I/O board cable.

  6. Android 维修工具包

    一个新的屏幕或电池就在一个套件之内。

    现在开始购物

    Android 维修工具包

    一个新的屏幕或电池就在一个套件之内。

    现在开始购物
  7. Use the tip of a spudger to carefully flip up the retaining flap on the fan cable ZIF socket.
    • Use the tip of a spudger to carefully flip up the retaining flap on the fan cable ZIF socket.

    • Be sure you are prying up on the hinged retaining flap, not the socket itself.

    I did not find it necessary to loosed the retainer flap, unplug the ribbon cable from it's socket, or remove the fan. After removing the fan screws in Step 9, the fan was loose enough that it can be slightly moved to the side. I felt that loosening the retaining flap and removing the fan adds unnecessary potential to damage something. To the contrary, if you bump the fan while it's plugged in, you might damage the ribbon cable.

    Michael Kruger - 回复

    My retaining flap broke instantly when lifting up with the spudger. Is that normal or possible to fix?

    Cameron Lawrence - 回复

  8. Peel the rubber gasket off the adhesive on the top of the fan.
    • Peel the rubber gasket off the adhesive on the top of the fan.

    In my case the adhesive had already come undone through normal use.

    Tito Jankowski - 回复

  9. Remove the following three screws securing the fan to the upper case:
    • Remove the following three screws securing the fan to the upper case:

    • One 3.6 mm T5 Torx screw

    • One 2.7 mm T5 Torx screw

    • One 3.6 mm T5 Torx screw with a short head

    I found it easier to do step 11 before this one.

    maccentric - 回复

    During reassembly don’t forget the ribbon cable.

    Rhiannon Orizaga - 回复

  10. Lift the fan from the I/O board side and pull it free from the upper case. Removing the fan will also disconnect the fan ribbon cable. Be careful not to snag it.
    • Lift the fan from the I/O board side and pull it free from the upper case.

    • Removing the fan will also disconnect the fan ribbon cable. Be careful not to snag it.

    It is a lot easier to insert the flat ribbon in its socket before placing the fan back in place. BUT DO NOT YET FLIP BACK the retaining flap, until you have seated and screwed the fan. This way in case you pull on the fan by mistake, the flat ribbon is free to come out, otherwise you may tear it.

    Rany - 回复

    I did not find it necessary to remove the fan or unplug the ribbon cable from it's socket. After removing the fan screws, the fan was loose enough that it can be slightly moved to the side. I felt that loosening the retaining flap and removing the fan adds unnecessary potential to damage something. To the contrary, if you bump the fan while it's plugged in, you might damage the ribbon cable.

    Michael Kruger - 回复

  11. Disconnect the I/O board by pulling its power cable away from its socket on the logic board.
    • Disconnect the I/O board by pulling its power cable away from its socket on the logic board.

    • Pull the cable parallel to the face of the logic board toward the right edge of the Air.

  12. Use the flat end of a spudger to pry the left speaker cable connector up and out of its socket on the I/O board. Pry up from beneath the wires.
    • Use the flat end of a spudger to pry the left speaker cable connector up and out of its socket on the I/O board.

    • Pry up from beneath the wires.

    Steps 12 through 16 are not really necessary; you can easily de-route the necessary cables without removing the I/O board. Likewise with reassembly.

    maccentric - 回复

  13. Use the tip of a spudger to carefully flip up the retaining flap on the microphone ribbon cable ZIF socket. Make sure you are flipping up the retaining flap, not the socket itself.
    • Use the tip of a spudger to carefully flip up the retaining flap on the microphone ribbon cable ZIF socket.

    • Make sure you are flipping up the retaining flap, not the socket itself.

    When following these steps in the reverse order to reassemble the machine, I found it much easier to insert the ribbon cable before inserting the I/O board into it's place and installing the screw (Step 14). This adds potential for any sudden movement to damage the ribbon cable, so gentle care must be exercised.

    Michael Kruger - 回复

    Tried doing both ways when reassembling but the ribbon cable is so crimped that it won’t feed through the socket anymore. Not sure how to get it through else replace cable or run without a microphone.

    Reynold Gonsalves - 回复

  14. Remove the single 3.6 mm T5 Torx screw securing the I/O board to the upper case.
    • Remove the single 3.6 mm T5 Torx screw securing the I/O board to the upper case.

    When following these steps in the reverse order to reassemble the machine, I found it much easier to insert the ribbon cable before inserting the I/O board into it's place and installing the screw (Step 14). This adds potential for any sudden movement to damage the ribbon cable, so gentle care must be exercised.

    Michael Kruger - 回复

    I also noticed that the ribbon cable has a “tab” of extra ribbon above it that was hard to see in the pictures.

    Rhiannon Orizaga - 回复

  15. Gently de-route the camera cable from its notch on the I/O board and push it out of the way with the tip of a spudger. Gently de-route the camera cable from its notch on the I/O board and push it out of the way with the tip of a spudger.
    • Gently de-route the camera cable from its notch on the I/O board and push it out of the way with the tip of a spudger.

  16. Lift the I/O board from the logic board side and pull it free from the upper case.
    • Lift the I/O board from the logic board side and pull it free from the upper case.

    • Removing the I/O board will also disconnect the microphone ribbon cable. Be careful not to snag it.

    I didn't actually need to remove the IO board, it's enough to remove the screw to let it loose. Therefore also step 12 and 13 are useless.

    Emilio - 回复

    THANK YOU. Was able to push the camera cable under the io board without removing it.

    samdaman91 -

结论

To reassemble your device, follow these instructions in reverse order.

35等其他人完成本指南。

How can I tell if its my I/O board that is damaged? I cannot hear sound from Aux port or from the speakers on my macbook. Laptop still charges fine though.

Ralphy Sierra - 回复

Check to see if your USB port on that side works. That was how I know mine was bad.

craig - 回复

Was easier than I thought to do.

craig - 回复

If light on magsafe doesn't turn on, is it safe to say the io board needs to be replaced?

Jon Lewin - 回复

Thumbs up Walter!

jlaramore - 回复

Worked perfectly for me. In my case the audio device wasn’t able to be found so no sound unless I used a usb or bluetooth speaker. I found that one step here wasn’t necessary was to remove the fan - just swivel it out of the way and so you don’t have to unplug it. Otherwise a very good explanation made it easy for me to fix my 2013 MacAir having no sound.

Josh Marshall - 回复

添加评论

浏览统计数据:

过去的24小时: 10

过去的7天: 64

过去的30天: 249

总计 21,092