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Disassembling Corsair Vengeance M65 Mouse Body

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  1. Disassembling Corsair Vengeance M65 Mouse Body, Disassembling Corsair Vengeance M65 Mouse Body: 步骤 1 中的图像 1,2 Disassembling Corsair Vengeance M65 Mouse Body, Disassembling Corsair Vengeance M65 Mouse Body: 步骤 1 中的图像 2,2
    • Let's begin!

    • First, flip it over.

    • Find two Torx screws. Use a T6 Torx driver to unscrew these. I used a small flat head screw driver to unscrew these because I did not have a T6 Torx driver.

    T7 torx fits better

    acessoigor - 回复

    Later models with RGB has Phillips instead of Torqx, and are recessed deeper in the mouse.

    Adam Honse - 回复

    Thanks all. Trying clean my bargain bin find. Hoping to get the fire button panel off to clean the buttons. Managed to release the two snaps but didn't release it. Gunna let that go and just use alcohol wipes, a spudger tool, and a small paint brush

    Bobfixit - 回复

  2. Disassembling Corsair Vengeance M65 Mouse Body: 步骤 2 中的图像 1,2 Disassembling Corsair Vengeance M65 Mouse Body: 步骤 2 中的图像 2,2
    • BE CAREFUL WITH FLAT-HEAD SCREWDRIVER! Alternatively open it bare handed.

    • DO NOT SEPARATE THE TWO HALVES TOO WIDE YET AS THERE ARE DELICATE RIBBON CABLES CONNECTING THE TWO HALVES!

    • Push down where I am pointing out here. It should come apart fairly easily.

    • To open it bare handed, hold M65 with USB cord running straight downwards and force top surface of M65 upwards with your palm then pull M65's rear edge upwardly with your "hooked" fingers of the same hand.

    Can be quite a tight fit. Carefully increase force with finger tips.

    Outland - 回复

  3. Disassembling Corsair Vengeance M65 Mouse Body: 步骤 3 中的图像 1,3 Disassembling Corsair Vengeance M65 Mouse Body: 步骤 3 中的图像 2,3 Disassembling Corsair Vengeance M65 Mouse Body: 步骤 3 中的图像 3,3
    • BE GENTLE!

    • Wiggle the front of the mouse and gently pull the top half towards the back.

    • SLIGHTLY LIFT THE TOP HALF ABOUT 5mm!

    • There is a ribbon cable and a power cable attached to the top and bottom.

    • SLOWLY! Wiggle the top ribbon cable out of its slot.

    • On the power cable, grip the plug itself and not the wires. Pull the power cable from the bottom.

    • YAY! You got them apart!

    Ribbon cable may have a black ‘flip up’ tab on the connector.

    Outland - 回复

  4. Disassembling Corsair Vengeance M65 Mouse Body: 步骤 4 中的图像 1,3 Disassembling Corsair Vengeance M65 Mouse Body: 步骤 4 中的图像 2,3 Disassembling Corsair Vengeance M65 Mouse Body: 步骤 4 中的图像 3,3
    • If you wish to go any further, please do so at your own risk. I have not gone further than this.

    • There are two screws that hold the PCB in place. One is longer than the other. The SHORT one goes to where I am pointing. The long screw holds down a grounding wire. Move the wire out of the way as you take out the board.

    • There is a ribbon cable that I am pointing at which you can pull out. There are some multi-colored wires that are plugged into the board. Wiggle it out. Move it to the side when you take the board out.

    • Now lift the PCB out along with the scroll wheel. There should be some more screws which hold the metal to the plastic. Undo those if you want to.

    • The sides come apart. You must take the mainboard out in order to take the sides off. There are two latches for the left side and four on the right side. The left side also has two screws securing it to the rest of the body.

    Some M65 mice may have more than two screws and a separate PCB for the side buttons. The small PCB for the side buttons simply pulls out vertically.

    Small block that’s mounted on main PCB with pins (10) just showing through the top, this connects main PCB to the PCB that has the laser on. The main PCB pulls vertically off after the 2 or 3 screws have been removed. A shim or slim plastic pry tool will probably be needed (I used the handle to a plastic tea spoon). Push the pry tool gently under the side where the pin block is and ease the PCB vertically out of the mouse.

    Outland - 回复

结论

To reassemble your device, follow these instructions in reverse order.

39等其他人完成本指南。

Brett

于07/21/14注册

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29条评论

Dude, thank you so much for posting this. I broke the scroll wheel and I used this to disassemble the body to get it. If you could post a guid in how to actually fix the scroll wheel for anyone else that would be awesome.

Noble Two Six - 回复

Has anyone tried to disable the scroll wheel clicking? If so, did it work? I need to do this.

Xe Roy - 回复

Great guide! I only had a little bit of trouble reassembling it. The top part is hard to "click back" into the rest of the body. I finally did it, but couldn't notice what made them snap together.

I'd note something else too: I detached the TOP of the ribbon cable and it was a pain to attach it back, as you have to hold the 'lid' too and holding everything is awkward. What made it easier was to remove the PCB fixed by 2 screws in the 'lid', then attach the ribbon cable and then screw the PCB back into place.

Cheers!

P.S.: Xe Roy, you might have to unscrew the body PCB to lift it from the rest of the body. Else the scroll wheel is stuck and impossible to remove.

brunotvrs - 回复

It's at the front, in-front of the left and right clicks, 1 latch in-front of each mouse buttons, like the ones on the side panels. Sliding the top part forward in place and then snapping on the back kinda helped.

Boa Drago -

Yeah you’re totally right. It was quite easy to take off but much harder to put on. I think I found the latch, so i tried to take some pictures, but I would say it’s not so much about putting the mouse forward but starting at a high enough angle so the hole on the top clicks with the hole on the on the mouse.

So you have to get the latch in the hole at the top of the mouse first then once thats in the rest should click into place. But yeah, you can’t get it back on if you start at the back.

Here are the pictures: https://imgur.com/a/mqLrKZ9

Caleb -

Can't believe that this $70 "premium" gaming mouse uses an el-cheapo tact switch for the middle button. Looks like their casing design meant they couldn't cram another microswitch in there.

No wonder I keep seeing reviews and comments that the middle button click is failing.

Since I use middle-click near constantly, I've switched back to my $9 MS Wheelmouse Optical from 2008... I've had to turn the mouse acceleration up somewhat, it only does 800 dpi. But the middle button is at least a proper microswitch. Say what you like about their software, MS know how to commission good peripherals.

Adrian Wilkins - 回复

I got one of these mice because I found them available "refurbished" for $39. I really like this mouse a lot for it's tracking, the sniper button, and the premium feel of the button switches - I don't know if the switches are actually long lasting/quality, but, I do know that I like the combination of light touch and tactile click feedback to these buttons.

critofur - 回复

i think the laser on my m65 has gone. anyone know whether i can simply buy another laser part to replace the old one? thanks.

kam chowdry - 回复

same for me, i can right click and left click but it wont move or anything

kyce hall -

Thanks for this guide, my wheel was starting to scroll funny. Turns out there was a sizable bundle of cat hair wrapped around the shaft, and also strewn about elsewhere in the casing. A whole can of air and several Q-tips later, and it's as good as new. Well, except for the middle button, but hey, who doesn't have a problem with that on this mouse?

Matthew Sweger - 回复

I used this to clean my M65 RGB as it had a bunch of gunk near the side buttons and under the scroll wheel. I didn't pay attention to the ribbon cable orientation but seeing as my mouse it not fried I can assume that everything is fine. Great guide, had you not posted this I would never have known how to open this thing.

Ryan Grobe - 回复

Works great! Thanks dude! I would have never seen that seam in the back for the two halves like that - in step 2!

My mouse wheel was umping the scroll position all over. I opened it with your instruction, force-sprayed some 35% alcohol 65% water into the counter mechanism, used compressed air to remove the excess and dry it, reassembled it, and it works like new!

15 minutes later I’m here thanking you from japan!

tesselator - 回复

Thank you so much! I had a problem with the sensor not working, and I took it out and cleaned everything!

XtiC - 回复

I recommend using this screwdriver (https://goo.gl/NAvtzB) or something like it (just search 9 piece mini screwdriver on amazon or something) as I got it for £1 and it available in UK equivalent of “dollar store“ which we call pound shop and £1 is like $1.38 right now it is one of those products you see that many brands use as their own product and it has the right torx screw head in it (at least I think it is as it fits) also use the smallest flat head for prying the plastic off but (using same orientation of mouse in the picture of this guide where he is prying the top) do it to the right SIDE (not to the right of the bottom side) and do it near to the corner it works better for me on the Corsair M65 Pro RGB FPS which has the same body shape as well as buttons in the same places and screws are same as well the difference is that it has a new logo and has RGB lighting inside which shouldn’t be affected at all by following this guide as NON of the lights get in the way unless you tear it apart further

ZAHID SHABIR - 回复

i have managed to break the outher shell (left mouse button, left side cover and right side cover) where can i buy those parts? it still works because its just the plastic thats broken, thanks in andvance

Kristian A Halle - 回复

These parts are not available to buy. You could try looking on eBay or 3D print the parts you need.

Brett -

Hi everyone. Thanks for the guide it was easy to clean the mouse. I’ve been experiencing a problem with the right click because it is not working properly (sometimes I can’t scope on several FPS) so does anyone knows where I can find the replacement part ?(I can change it myself with my soldering tools).

Thanks.

Leonardo Forero - 回复

I found a way to fix the scroll problem (atleast for now,still needs extended testing),if you find a way to elevate the scroll wheel on the side of the middle mouse button with something soft-ish, and so that it still spins and clicks the middle mouse button. it seems to contact properly and then it scrolls normally. i actually just used a small bit of metal wire, bent around the switch. it sacrfifices my middle mouse but what evs

purple lynx - 回复

I just need help with the left clicking. It just feels out of place and it feels like I have to click on it harder that I used to.

jettangeles - 回复

I did everything as shown and now the mouse is never recognized by my PC. What the !&&* could have happened.

Eric Murray - 回复

Note that the RGB M65 series mouse uses #00 Phillips for the two screws on the bottom. I pulled mine apart because the left-click needed extra force to register a click (you’d hear the click, but had to push down a little harder to actually get it to register). I used 99% isopropyl alcohol to clean out the button for the left-click, blew it out, and now it registers the very second you get the click even with just enough force to get the click to happen. Saved me from having to drop the money on a new mouse.

Donabed Kopoian - 回复

What I did was removed the two Phillips screws on the bottom and pulled the top lid off (like you said, lift up on the Corsair logo, then pull away from the front of the mouse). At that point I used a flat spudger to lift up on the black clip holding the cable leading to the top lid, then the cable came right out. Use the spudger to disconnect the two power cables (one goes from the USB cable to the main board, the other goes from the main board to the back/forward/sniper assembly). One you have those apart, the back/forward/sniper board lifts straight up (note that cable goes in-between the ground and the other wires on the USB cable). Remove three screws on main board, and use a spudger to gently pry up on the right side of the board to disconnect the board from the laser assembly, then the board is free and clear. Assembly is pretty much in reverse order (make sure the lid is low and far forward before attempting to clip the rear back into place).

Donabed Kopoian - 回复

I also took off the 3 screws holding the DPI board in place when attaching that ribbon cable and place the black clip back into place. Makes it a lot easier and less awkward without the lid being in the way. Once you clip that ribbon cable in, you can screw the DPI board back to the lid and re-attach it.

Donabed Kopoian - 回复

Great guide! Used to clean mouse and make scroll wheel a free wheel.

Cole Wiebe - 回复

Thanks. My scroll wheel was not working really well and following your tutorial I was able to, disassemble it, clean it, and put it back together.

It was really helpful.

victor.daniell - 回复

This guide was useful, has I had to dismantle it to get some alcohol on the switches, they were gunked up from previous owner,most notably left click was inconsistent, now works like a beauty and it's ready to be sold as I don't need it.

PatalJunior - 回复

Hard to believe - this is still a defect in 2023. Mine started having this unreliable contact after only 3 months of use - suffered with it for a month (who's going to trash a 95.00 mouse, right?) - and all the horror stories of getting corsair to satisfy warranty requests... Pulled out the two screws, popped it open, moved the wires back and voila...working mouse. SMH.

D Brisbin - 回复

Good guide. I was having problems with the scroll wheel jumping my screen in random directions, and problems with the middle mouse button. I sprayed "contact cleaner" in the scroll wheel sensor and in the mouse button switches, blew them out, waited a few minutes for them to dry, then reassembled. It now works like the day I bought it!

John Deters - 回复

Awesome bro do you know if you can get replacement shells for corsair mouse

Ian Gartside - 回复

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