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简介

The Logic Board is like the central nervous system of the Time Capsule. Without the Logic Board the device will not function. The Ethernet ports are attached to the Logic Board, so if one port is damaged then you must replace the whole board. Use this guide to easily replace the damaged component.

  1. Turn the device upside down to reveal the rubber section of the back plate. Using a metal spudger, carefully wedge the blunt tip into the space between the aluminum back plate and the rubber, separating the two pieces. This may take a few minutes to pry the rubber off completely. Once your are able to get a grip on the rubber it is easier to peel it off using your hands. Don't worry about re-applying adhesive to the rubber; the remaining adhesive has plenty of strength to affix itself to the aluminum.
    • Turn the device upside down to reveal the rubber section of the back plate. Using a metal spudger, carefully wedge the blunt tip into the space between the aluminum back plate and the rubber, separating the two pieces.

    • This may take a few minutes to pry the rubber off completely. Once your are able to get a grip on the rubber it is easier to peel it off using your hands.

    • Don't worry about re-applying adhesive to the rubber; the remaining adhesive has plenty of strength to affix itself to the aluminum.

    The epoxy cementing the rubber pad to the aluminum base is a lot stronger than the rubber itself. The rubber is likely to tear as you remove it; I had to use a putty knife to clear the screws. It's worth hanging onto the branding near the Ethernet ports, for future identification (model number, serial number, Ethernet ID, AirPort ID); you can fashion a replacement pad out of neoprene rubber.

    adlerpe - 回复

    Mine completely ripped I have no back cover now its in multiple pieces…. mine was giving off way to much heat and hard drive errors so I decided to replace hard drive and fan wish me luck BUT if yours is overheating do not expect to get back off without ripping the rubber to

    William - 回复

    Using a fan to heat the plate up was helpful

    Michael Zimmermann - 回复

    I wish I read Michael Zimmermann’s suggestion before I tore the first half into about 15 pieces! On the second half I used a hair dryer to heat the rubber. With enough heat and a very slow steady pull on the rubber it came of as a single piece :-)

    mfred2 - 回复

    Do I need to put back on the rubber? will it overheat if I don’t?

    Benjamin Holmstedt - 回复

    It is almost impossible to keep the bottom rubber covering intact in one piece. The rubber is covering the whole base section and it won’t be a problem without it I guess. This is not an epoxy because it is still gummy and sticky. This is like the adhesive used on the double side tapes. Goo Gone worked well to remove those residues.

    Kenn Sakurai - 回复

    The rubber cap like bottom can be replaced with easy to cut in shape cork sheet will do. Just rip off the thin strip where the serial number for the ID and other info that might be needed later. Have it glued or put on a clear tape and put it on the side of the white plastic sidewall will do.

    Kenn Sakurai - 回复

  2. Remove the ten 3mm screws with a Phillips #00 screwdriver. The screws with adhesive covering do not need to be removed.
    • Remove the ten 3mm screws with a Phillips #00 screwdriver.

    • The screws with adhesive covering do not need to be removed.

    The two screws in the top center of this picture should not be removed at this time. They are locating pins on the hard drive.

    neil.davenport - 回复

    Correct - the four screws top centre with glue over then do not need to come out. They are only locating posts for the HDD.

    Tony Meredith - 2018-06-26

    Tony Meredith - 回复

    There are twelve screws marked in that picture. AFAIK only ten need removing. The two in the middle of the top edge don’t need removing

    Shimbo - 回复

    CONFIRMED. Thank you very much for the screws which should not be removed. You guys are right.

    Kenn Sakurai - 回复

  3. The fan affixed to the back plate is connected to the logic board. A small wire must be detached to fully remove the back plate. Pull the base of the wire close to the logic board and the connector will pop off.
    • The fan affixed to the back plate is connected to the logic board. A small wire must be detached to fully remove the back plate.

    • Pull the base of the wire close to the logic board and the connector will pop off.

    Be careful you do not rip the locating connector off the circuit board like I did.

    David “Milky” Millward - 回复

  4. Remove the external connector from its housing by lifting it up, then out. Lift the internal power supply brick out of the device.
    • Remove the external connector from its housing by lifting it up, then out.

    • Lift the internal power supply brick out of the device.

    • You may have to wiggle the brick slightly when removing it, but it will lift straight up and out as nothing else is holding it down.

  5. Disconnect the SATA connector from the hard drive.
    • Disconnect the SATA connector from the hard drive.

    • This cable does not have a locking mechanism so it can just be pulled out.

  6. Disconnect the final power cable from the logic board.
    • Disconnect the final power cable from the logic board.

    • Be careful when pushing in the tab on the logic board connector to release the cable lock.

    note: The tab is connected to the connector of the cable not the logic board

    yogy11 - 回复

    Hi there. This is probably a few years late. But where does one find a replacement PSU for this model Time Capsule?

    cmyplay - 回复

  7. Peel off the adhesive backed foam from the top of the drive.
    • Peel off the adhesive backed foam from the top of the drive.

    • Lift the drive straight up and out of the device.

    Probably worth noting that the adhesive backed foam is covering what appears to be a temperature sensor which is stuck to the drive. That needs to be removed and installed on the new drive too. In addition there are pins and rubber boots (which may still be attached to the metal cover removed in step 2) on the drive which need to be transferred to the new drive. I couldn't unscrew them from my drive and had to use pliers to loosen them.

    neil.davenport - 回复

    One should also remove the 4 distance pieces/spacers (2 aluminum screws [P1] on each side of the hard drive).

    Lars Clasen - 回复

    No need to remove the distance spacers, the drive will come out anyway.

    Tony Meredith - 回复

  8. Remove the SATA connector and power connector from the end of the hard drive by simply pulling the cables straight away from the connection points. Remove the SATA connector and power connector from the end of the hard drive by simply pulling the cables straight away from the connection points. Remove the SATA connector and power connector from the end of the hard drive by simply pulling the cables straight away from the connection points.
    • Remove the SATA connector and power connector from the end of the hard drive by simply pulling the cables straight away from the connection points.

    https://d3nevzfk7ii3be.cloudfront.net/ig...

    In the photo showing the bottom of the capsule and the 12 circled screws: only 10 need to be removed (as the instructions say). In this step, do not remove the 2 screws at the top center.

    After the hard drive is removed, unscrew the 4 standoffs from the old drive and transfer them to the new hard drive. Be sure to account for all 4 grey rubber "o-rings" that go on these standoffs.

    Reassemble.

    Format the new drive using Airport Utility.

    davec2468 - 回复

    Once the hard drive is removed, can it be installed in an aftermarket enclosure and using as an external drive.

    Oldirish1948

    Fred McFaddin - 回复

    That is my question too. I have one of these and I want to put the hard drive in my iMac. Will that work?

    Alec -

  9. Remove the three 4mm screws from the base of the board with a Phillips #0 screwdriver.
    • Remove the three 4mm screws from the base of the board with a Phillips #0 screwdriver.

    • The center screw will release a small aluminum mounting block, be sure to keep track of this for reassembly.

  10. Remove the three hexagonal mounting blocks by twisting them counter clockwise. Some of the mounting blocks may need to be loosened by a wrench or a small set of plyers first before being removed by hand.
    • Remove the three hexagonal mounting blocks by twisting them counter clockwise.

    • Some of the mounting blocks may need to be loosened by a wrench or a small set of plyers first before being removed by hand.

  11. Press in the two aluminum tabs to lift the board up and out from under the tabs.
    • Press in the two aluminum tabs to lift the board up and out from under the tabs.

    • There are still connectors keeping the board attached to the device shell. Do NOT remove the board all the way at this step, just out from under the tabs.

  12. Remove the LED cable from the top left corner of the logic board by pulling the cable straight out and away from the board.
    • Remove the LED cable from the top left corner of the logic board by pulling the cable straight out and away from the board.

  13. Pull the two indicated tabs away from the Wi-Fi Module and carefully pull out the card.
    • Pull the two indicated tabs away from the Wi-Fi Module and carefully pull out the card.

    • This can be tricky sometimes, you may need to ask a friend for a spare set of hands to pull apart the tabs, if it's too fiddly for you.

结论

To reassemble your device, follow these instructions in reverse order.

6等其他人完成本指南。

Patrick Butler

于2016年10月06日注册

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Cal Poly, Team 4-2, Livingston Fall 2016 Cal Poly, Team 4-2, Livingston Fall 2016 的会员

CPSU-LIVINGSTON-F16S4G2

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创作了15篇指南

Between step 12 and 13 there is no detail on how to remove the board! I did the procedure until step #12 but board is firmly attached to the case! even after pullling the metal tabs it’s still glued to the base, please help

Juan Fonseca - 回复

The board seems stuck because of sticky thermal pads between the chips and the housing. Assuming all screws are removed and cables disconnected, you should be able to pull up the board by just applying force. Hope this helps.

Steffen Moldekleiv -

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