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简介

The EMI Filter is set into the device and is behind a few components. Because of this there are many wires surrounding it that are not part of this specific component. Make sure to carefully follow wires and components to make sure that the right parts are being removed.

  1. Lay down the display with screen side up. Since the display is able to be tilted up and down, we found it useful to prop up the screen up with a styrofoam block in between the screen and the base. Place the two suction cups on both sides of the top of the screen and make sure to lock them in place.
    • Lay down the display with screen side up.

    • Since the display is able to be tilted up and down, we found it useful to prop up the screen up with a styrofoam block in between the screen and the base.

    • Place the two suction cups on both sides of the top of the screen and make sure to lock them in place.

    • The glass screen to connected to the rest of the display by small magnets. Lift slowly and the screen will come right off.

    Instead of $14 foam block, I used a full roll of paper towel and two pillows. While it worked, if I ever did this again, I would buy the block of foam. Since you’re removing a power cable, you need to be able thread it through and I think the foam block would make that easier.

    Josh Miller - 回复

    You can also use a single handle, double cup floor lifting suction cup. Just place it in the centre of the screen near the camera and lift slowly.

    Steve A - 回复

  2. Unscrew the 12 screws around the side edges and the top of the LCD with the TR 10 Screwdriver. Unscrew the 12 screws around the side edges and the top of the LCD with the TR 10 Screwdriver.
    • Unscrew the 12 screws around the side edges and the top of the LCD with the TR 10 Screwdriver.

    The screws marked in orange don't need to be removed, all they do is hold the magnets on the LCD.

    Garrett Mace - 回复

    Yes “orange screws” does not need to be removed.

    You do not need a TR10 screwdriver as written in the text a T10 will suffice (more common and also correctly mentioned in the list of tools).

    A TR10 screwdriver is compatible with the T10, but not the other way around

    Per Lohmann Poulsen - 回复

  3. Slowly lift the LCD out from its placement and tilt it upwards. It can be very helpful to have an extra set of hands to hold the LCD up while you work with the cables underneath.
    • Slowly lift the LCD out from its placement and tilt it upwards.

    • It can be very helpful to have an extra set of hands to hold the LCD up while you work with the cables underneath.

    • There are four wires that connect the LCD to the rest of the components. Make sure not to pull hard and break any of the wires.

    Add the note that it should be lifted from the bottom edge. It is also important not to twist the display by levering up from one corner.

    Charlie Nancarrow - 回复

    Before lifting the monitor, you should be prepared to start collecting screws and have your TR 10 ready.

    Josh Miller - 回复

  4. For the first of the four wires (furthest away from the wire that is held in by a screw), grab onto the connector and pull slowly. For the first of the four wires (furthest away from the wire that is held in by a screw), grab onto the connector and pull slowly. For the first of the four wires (furthest away from the wire that is held in by a screw), grab onto the connector and pull slowly.
    • For the first of the four wires (furthest away from the wire that is held in by a screw), grab onto the connector and pull slowly.

  5. For the next connector, which is right next to the previous wire, there is a piece of tape attached to a metal bar. Flip the metal bar over using the tape as a handle. Next, grab onto the connector and slowly pull it from the socket in the logic board.
    • For the next connector, which is right next to the previous wire, there is a piece of tape attached to a metal bar.

    • Flip the metal bar over using the tape as a handle.

    • Next, grab onto the connector and slowly pull it from the socket in the logic board.

    What is this connector for?

    pdspanagel - 回复

    I imagine this connector is going to be for display data (i.e. LCD data).

    Scott Havard - 回复

    I pretty much mangled this cable trying to put it back into the slot. Is this something I can order a replacement for?

    Ryan Stryker - 回复

    I also screwed up this wire.

    erybovic - 回复

    I also screwed up this wire. Wondering what the wire name is.

    erybovic - 回复

    Thunderbolt Display 27" LVDS Cable

    Klaus Finke - 回复

    As other’s have said, this cable is super delicate.

    When you replace it, make sure that the small metal handle it firmly reattached to the other side of the port. I thought I’d got it right first time, but had no video signal (thunderbolt detected display, and power was fed to the Macbook Pro).

    I had to reinsert this one again, and one in, firmly press the connector home, then latch the handle over the other side. I also gave it a test pull to ensure it was secure. Then all was well!

    Steve A - 回复

  6. For the connector on the other side of the logic board, grab the connector from underneath and carefully pull it from the board. For the connector on the other side of the logic board, grab the connector from underneath and carefully pull it from the board. For the connector on the other side of the logic board, grab the connector from underneath and carefully pull it from the board.
    • For the connector on the other side of the logic board, grab the connector from underneath and carefully pull it from the board.

  7. For the last wire connecting to the LCD, use your TR 10 Screwdriver to remove the screw.
    • For the last wire connecting to the LCD, use your TR 10 Screwdriver to remove the screw.

  8. The LCD has now been fully disconnected from the casing and can be repaired/replaced! The LCD has now been fully disconnected from the casing and can be repaired/replaced!
    • The LCD has now been fully disconnected from the casing and can be repaired/replaced!

  9. You should now see the EMI filter right in the middle of the device (although held in by a few other components). Follow the wires coming out of the bottom of the Power adapter off to the left.
    • You should now see the EMI filter right in the middle of the device (although held in by a few other components).

    • Follow the wires coming out of the bottom of the Power adapter off to the left.

    • Take the tweezers and remove the piece of tape holding the wires to the casing.

    • There is only one connector that needs to be taken out (even though there are two right next to each other!).

    • Grab the connector from the bottom and pull it carefully from its corresponding socket.

    Note: The Brown/Black pair highlighted in the picture is for the AC connector. For the MagSafe power, you want to disconnect the double-black wire connection. Another way to distinguish if colors differ is that the MagSafe connection has a much larger connector on it.

    Isaac - 回复

  10. Next, remove the piece of electrical tape that is holding wires into the casing connecting to the power adapter. Next, remove the piece of electrical tape that is holding wires into the casing connecting to the power adapter.
    • Next, remove the piece of electrical tape that is holding wires into the casing connecting to the power adapter.

  11. The surrounding speaker component (the black box) around the power inlet needs to be removed. Use the TR 10 screwdriver to remove the four screws. Disconnect the speaker from behind the logic board by carefully pulling at the plastic end of the cable.
    • The surrounding speaker component (the black box) around the power inlet needs to be removed.

    • Use the TR 10 screwdriver to remove the four screws.

    • Disconnect the speaker from behind the logic board by carefully pulling at the plastic end of the cable.

    • Remove the speaker.

  12. Now that the middle speaker is out of the way, the EMI filter is easily accessible. Using tweezers, remove the silver tape that is at the top of the filter.
    • Now that the middle speaker is out of the way, the EMI filter is easily accessible.

    • Using tweezers, remove the silver tape that is at the top of the filter.

    I can’t help but notice that this assembly that is called an EMI (Electromagnetic Interference) Filter is in the exact position that my monitor has been displaying a band of disrupted color bands once it heats up. I am changing the Thunderbolt cable assembly in hopes that is fixes the problem. If it doesn’t then I will make changing the Filter my next quest. It is also noteworthy that the Filter is grounded to the case by the metal tape which must be peeled back for this procedure. Hmmm.

    whiteshephard - 回复

  13. The EMI filter is connected by three screws. Use the T10 screwdriver to remove them. The screw that holds in both the filter and a wire that is connected to it is a different size and should be kept identifiable from the other two screws. The green and yellow wire that was held in by the different screw is tucked behind another component. To get it out, squeeze it behind the black wire and the filter will be able to be removed from the casing.
    • The EMI filter is connected by three screws. Use the T10 screwdriver to remove them.

    • The screw that holds in both the filter and a wire that is connected to it is a different size and should be kept identifiable from the other two screws.

    • The green and yellow wire that was held in by the different screw is tucked behind another component. To get it out, squeeze it behind the black wire and the filter will be able to be removed from the casing.

    Nothing about the power cable itself here. That has to be unplugged first, or when you get to this point, you’ll have to carefully unplug the main power cable from the back of the AC adapter you just removed in Step 13, and feed it through the hole in the back of the case.

    EARL W REYNOLDS JR - 回复

结论

To reassemble your device, follow these instructions in reverse order.

8等其他人完成本指南。

Calvin Laverty

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Power adapter? That's the AC EMI filter, right? My power supply looks like this:

http://www.dvwarehouse.com/661-6048-661-...

The EMI filter will never fail... well, maybe a direct lightning strike.

roger - 回复

That is definitely just a filter. The power supply is the big PCB connected to it. One could say this is an EMI filter along with an IEC input connector...this guide is only useful if you want to replace the connector rather than the actual power supply.

Garrett Mace -

Not sure if the EMI filter will NEVER fail as someone said above. Mine was buzzing and I replaced it and this fixed one of my displays that was buzzing. There are also other causes, including capacitors on the Power Supply board, worn out fan etc.

Charlie Nancarrow -

So are we saying that this is wrong? anyone? I really need to replace my power supply.

Stewart Sensor - 回复

I replace the all in one lightning and charge cable but it has ended up that the lightning cable only works. I thought I connected everything up fine but which connector would stop the charge cable working?

pdspanagel - 回复

Am I imagining things, or was there once a separate power supply guide? I bought the part, and now I can't seem to find that particular guide.. I had the buzzing sound, and now my display won't even turn on-- do I have to replace both, would you think?

Cory Caplan - 回复

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