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介绍

使用本指南可以借助iFixit电池更换套件从MacBook Pro中安全地取出内置电池。 套件中的粘合剂去除剂将溶解固定电池的化学制剂,使您可以轻松地将其移除。

iFixit粘合剂去除剂是高度易燃的。'''在通风良好的地方进行此项操作。 在这个过程中不要在明火附近抽烟或工作。

为了您的安全,在开始此程序之前,请先将MacBook Pro的电池电量耗尽。如果意外刺破,带电的锂离子电池可能会造成危险且无法控制的火灾。

注意:用于溶解电池粘合剂的溶剂会在扬声器与塑料扬声器音箱接触时损坏扬声器。 本指南指导您在继续使用电池之前取下扬声器。

如果你使用的是旧款的iFixit黏胶去除剂(单独的瓶子和注射器), 点击这里阅读不同的指南。

  1. 将固定 MacBook Pro 后盖的 P5 五角螺丝拆掉:
    • 将固定 MacBook Pro 后盖的 P5 五角螺丝拆掉:

    • 8颗 3.0mm 螺丝

    • 2颗 2.3mm 螺丝

    To remove the back panel there are two different pentalobe screws 2.3mm and 3mm however on the tools list there is only one screwdriver. Will I be able to remove both screws with the same screwdriver?

    lantzero - 回复

    In my case it worked. Don't know if it was a 2,3 or 3 mm screwdriver

    Christian Mohr -

    The 2.0 and 2.3 mm measurements are screw lengths, the screw heads are the same sized P5 pentalobe heads. We include the screw lengths so you don't put the wrong screws in the wrong places and end up with screw heads poking out of your device. Hope that clears up some confusion =)

    Sam Goldheart -

    Yes the same screwdriver will remove both screws, the difference in screws I believe is the length and width but the head is the same.

    Mike -

    will this unit work with the Mid 2012 Macbook Pro Retina's as well?

    drscottgreenwell - 回复

    Same question...anyone know? Damaged my 2012 board and if possible would like to upgrade to this unit

    cloughenough -

    This works for rMBP 2012 late

    iyeori -

    Woohoo, much easier than I thought... Just got confused with the bottom case screw driver but after figure out it was P5 then everything went smooth.... One thing I wanted to upgrade was the wifi to ac and got one on ebay!

    didierma - 回复

    If you have 54 Bit Driver kit, please use Star 5 driver to remove screw for rMBP 2012 Late

    iyeori - 回复

    Where can I find the driver for the MacBook Pro Retina Display 15'4 i7 on your website iFixit please.

    Epifanio - 回复

    It took about 40 minutes due to an extreme measure of caution but I did it! The only real difficulty was reattaching the screen to the base (yes you have to pry the hinges open) and re-connecting the camera wires. After a few tries the camera wires finally came together. I'm hating Apple for all it's frailty and magical screws but I love ifixit!

    floyd - 回复

    Simple guide, but it solved my problem. Was wondering why the top two screws weren't going all the way down. Hadn't realized they were 0.7mm shorter.

    Emilio Mejia - 回复

    I have BootCamp running Win7 on my MBPwRetina15" 2013'Late. I run Visual Studio to build and run my Company's Application which is very CPU & NVidia (specific) intensive. So much so that during a build & run of app I was averaging about 85~95+Celcius!!! And every so often would reach 100Celcius!!! I could not take it anymore so I decided to delve into and re-apply Thermal Paste on the CPU/GPU. I ended up going with CooLaboratory Liquid Pro instead of the traditonal AS5. The original Thermal Paste was pure garbage,,, part of the CPU seemed like it was missing TP. I was scared to do this but it turned out easier than I had imagined. I am currently building the same application and can already observe that the temps average about 75~85 and once in a while will reach 90Celcius. So I am seeing about a 10~15 degree drop in Temps and that makes me very happy!

    Alvaro Suarez - 回复

    Nice to hear that, i was looking for that kind of information. I have a MBPwRetina 15 Mid 2012 and looking to obtain the best performance!

    Jose David Valle -

    Woa! Thanks dude! And you follow some guides here for the thermal paste? My mac 15’’ early 2013 heats up a lot but I’m a bit worried about touching anything

    Bert0ld0 -

    Good to list the bit needed to open the case: P6

    brian2burnett - 回复

    Much easier than expected. Sounds like several people had trouble with the backlight. It is possible that they damaged something by not first making sure to power down the computer completely with the “Shut Down” command. This should be step 1 before removing the back cover screws. Also as noted all the back cover screws are Apple Pentelope #5 bit, but 2 of the screws are shorter than the others. This bit is is hard to find in most stores. Buy it on line along with the Tork #5 and #8. 11/21/2017

    Walt Goede - 回复

    Replaced my Magsafe 2 yesterday and it works perfectly on my MBP 15” ea13. However, when I plugged in the charger I heard the startup sound twice and then I got to the login page where I realized the keyboard didn’t respond.

    So I thought I should restart the computer so I clicked ”shut down”. But the keyboard is dead. I can’t start it. I haven’t tried to use a USB-keyboard yet..

    Any ideas what may have caused this to happen and what component ”handles” the keyboard? Thanks

    /JD

    Jakob Dahlin - 回复

    Not sure if this has been listed.

    PRO TIPS from a non-pro:

    1 - Keep screws separated and labeled by step # and size.

    2 - Be very careful to get screws in properly threaded, its VERY easy to strip the ccrew holes and screws. Especially the case. Not that it happened to me…

    3 - It was impossible for me to get all the adhesive off the case from under battery, it left a lot on w/o issue (yet).

    4 - Make sure you have Aluminium Foil before starting!

    5 - Upgrade the SSD or HDD while your in there!

    erin - 回复

    Do we remove the logic board purely to get the speaker enclosures out and away from the acetone? Or does it physically block getting the batteries out? Ie. if I wanted to risk the damage to the speakers, could I jump straight to step 34?

    Obviously I don’t want to melt the speakers, but I’m kinda weighing that risk against losing a screw or breaking a connector…

    Michael Ferenduros - 回复

    So I did take the risk and swapped out the battery without doing the logic-board + speaker removal.

    Before applying the acetone I put tape on the exposed sides of the speaker-enclosures as best I could - I wrapped the tape, sticky side out, around a card, slid it into the gap, and pressed it onto the speakers. And when applying the acetone, I squirted it as gently as possible onto the side of the battery and let it run down the side, which seemed to help avoid getting too much on the speakers.

    The speaker’s plastic turned white in the spots where the acetone touched it, but it looked like surface damage only. Otherwise it was a nice and smooth procedure.

    Your milage may vary, obviously.

    Michael Ferenduros -

    I changed the battery pack as well without removing the logic board etc. It helped, that the batteries already were swollen, thus access to the glue stripes was easier. It works, if you give a little tension, pulling a pack upwards, and then work with a small blade or knife, and cut the glue stripes. It may take a while, but much less time than dismantling the whole macbook. If you don’t hurry, and don’t apply too much force, you will not damage anything. Beside the 10 cover screws you only have to loose 2 screws for the battery connector. After removing the old pack I used Methanol to remove the glue. I prefer this solvent to Acetone, because it’s less or not harmful to plastic (however, no warranty, just my personal experience). I was able to finish the work in 40 minutes, although it was the first time I opened my Macbook. Well, I am an engineer, that helps, but with dismantling all boards it definitely would have taken double the time. And more risks to break a plug or make a mistake while reassembling.

    Heinrich Jung -

    Success. I needed to replace the right speaker. I thought I was ready at step 22 (you are able to replace the left speaker at this point… but but the right) To replace the right I continued thru step 29 but didn’t completely remove the motherboard. I just lifted it enough to remove and replace the right speaker cable.

    Read all of the comments and solved many problems. Thanks to I-fixit, Walter Galen and all who posted comments.

    Will Brecht - 03/02/2019

    Will Brecht - 回复

    1/2

    If you're taking the shortcut (nylon, wire…and no adhesive for battery removal (you'll def need to remove the adhesive once the battery pack is removed) things to note:

    1 The adhesive may still be pretty strong. Mine was and I broke several wires trying to do the cheese cutter move down the back of the middle two batteries

    2 if you're cheese cutting through the adhesive, when you get to the base, don't go too far. I did and severed the battery cell connector… disconcerting puff of smoke.

    Ruairi Kennedy - 回复

    2/2

    3 the you tube video dude was lucky not to have his two Central batteries adhered . Mine were stuck fast.

    4 don't forget about the two small T 5 screws to the left and right of the battery head board, just below the main battery connector.

    5 the Track Pad sits behind the two central batteries. The batteries are adhered to a flat plate that protects the Track Pad which is pretty resilient. You can do the cheese wire trick without cutting through anything you shouldn't. However be careful if you're using a spudger or other tool between the two centre batteries at the top of the T. This is where the Track Pad connector (its very flat and exposed) to the motherboard.

    6 seems obvious when it's written , but you will need the adhesive remover if you are interested in removing the adhesive. It's a work out.

    Ruairi Kennedy - 回复

    I just completed this successfully. The guide was great, and I recommend reading each of the steps’ comments, too. It is possible to cut out a majority of the steps outlined here if you’d rather not dismantle most of your laptop. As I’m a novice and this was the first difficult fix I’d ever tried, the idea of taking so many things apart — including removing the logic board — was a little scary. Everyone calculates risk and reward differently, but for me, the risk of removing the logic board for the reward of being able to remove the battery packs with adhesive remover was too great, so I opted to only do steps 1–4, 42–53 and removed the battery with one of the cards from iFixit’s kit. If you go this route, expect it to be a little frustrating & slow going — it took me around 20–30 minutes of slowly chipping away at the adhesive with only the card. There are other techniques out there (wire, fishing line, etc.) and I’d advise looking into them. Keep track of screws: tape, draw out diagrams, label them, etc.

    Jake Thornberry - 回复

    Hi. I got your beautiful guide and I got a toolkit, unfortunately not the ifix it and everything is ready to start the operation. But the P5 seems to be too big for the screws of my late 2013 a1398. Are there more than one types/ sizes of P5?

    Chrysovalantis Lamprianidis - 回复

  2. 从后盖盖和主机壳夹扣处抬起,从 MacBook Pro上取下后盖。
    • 从后盖盖和主机壳夹扣处抬起,从 MacBook Pro上取下后盖。

    • 将取下的后盖放到一边。

    Does anyone noticed that the bottom cover and the bottom case is actually linked with the black plastic near the battery?! After the first time you open the cover, it will be impossible to put it back to the original place. Does the critical?! Thanks a lot for informing

    jamiegan835 - 回复

    I was able to simply push and click those clips back into place before I did the screwing.

    Tim Peat -

    I truly believe this is placebo and the 10*C difference is because in the process the dust was removed from the fan/heat sink rather then the thermal "magic" paste.

    This is a "PC" habit.

    On the other hand, all the cases and protections out there have a bad effect on cooling (not sleeves or pouches) because the whole aluminum body helps dissipate heat.

    I've never had any problems with any mac regarding heat (they do get hot, but it is OK).

    Whenever you feel heat from electronic device means the heat radiates away from it.. which means the cooling is doing a good job :).

    crus - 回复

    Hey,

    Writing about dust and dirt, do you know any cleaning products for the interior of the mac. i mean how do you clean your laptop, pc, etc..

    Regards

    Jose David Valle -

    This is untrue. Over time thermal paste will dry up and crack and not provide good coverage between the device and the cooler. The paste massively improves the thermal transfer between the chip and the heatsink. If you do not believe in the magic paste then you should wipe it all off and apply just a little bit or none at all and then compare temperatures. You will see the paste is responsible for a big reduction in temperature.

    Andrew Fox -

    I was able to remove all screws but lower case is not comming off easly. Is it glued to somthing?

    Thanks for help.

    c4rlosv8 - 回复

    There are two clips in the centre which simply unclip with a little force.

    Tim Peat -

    If you are following this how-to because liquid/coffee splashed in through the back vents, WAIT UNTIL THE END to clean any liquid spills on the bottom panel. Use them as your map for cleaning and QA guide for checking until you are finished with your cleanup of logic board and other items.

    auntialias - 回复

  3. 揭开盖住电池接口的警告标签。
    • 揭开盖住电池接口的警告标签。

    For rMBP 2012 Late, you don't need to remove this sticker.

    iyeori - 回复

    Have laptop charging issues after this. When fully charged and i plug in magsafe it starts with green, then turns red and stays red (like if it was charging). Status bar says NOT charging. If i use battery a little bit (down to 69%) magsafe does the same (green then stay red). Status bar says battery 69% NOT charging. and it seems to be true. Any suggestions?

    g000phy - 回复

    Double check the connection from the battery to the logic board and the logic board socket itself... Might have damaged by disconnect/reconnect.

    max damage -

    Why is this step necessary?

    67b5ebab - 回复

    67b5ebab Good question !

    Why is this necessary ?

    bigb19791979 - 回复

    This step is necessary to prevent any discharging, arcing, friction/static charges from damaging any of the extremely delicate and intricate parts of this (or most any) electrical system. In practice, you should even be wearing an anti-static band or be working on an anti-static bench even with the battery disconnected so your body doesn't create any unintentional charges.

    One of the first things you should learn in electronics repair and and electrical in general is to cut the power source whenever possible before performing any work. Some systems have schedulers/triggers set that will wake the system up (even when closed) to perform updates and other maintenance tasks as to not eat up CPU and RAM during 'peak hours'. The last thing you need is to have your $2,000 laptop turn on while pulling an SSD (which, correct me if wrong, isn't a plug-and-play based device) which could do some serious corruption and/or damage; when all you had to do was peel a sticker and plug.

    Hope that helps!!

    ~the more you know~

    Colin Devenney - 回复

    I did not peel back the sticker. It is probably there to help unplug the battery. You can apply a gentle constant pull while you use spudger to lift the battery connector out of the socket as per the next step. It made this very easy.

    Achilles - 回复

    There is another connector here on mine, just to the left and up above the text on the battery sticker. It is an empty ZIPF socket on all these photos.

    Richard C - 回复

  4. 使用撬棒平头的那端,轻轻地将电池接口直接从逻辑板上的插座中撬出。 弯曲电池电缆,确保电池接口不会意外接触逻辑板。
    • 使用撬棒平头的那端,轻轻地将电池接口直接从逻辑板上的插座中撬出。

    • 弯曲电池电缆,确保电池接口不会意外接触逻辑板。

    I ordered the whole kit, but seeing how much tedious effort it was to take out so many parts so they wouldn't be damaged by the solvent, I skipped from here to step 34 and only used the supplied cards (credit-card sized) with patience and persistence to free the battery sections from the backing. Success! Then I used a q-tip to apply the solvent to remove the remnants of the adhesive from the aluminum case. My battery was very swollen, so it was like removing little pillows. I think the swelling may have helped to give me additional access with the cards to free it. Success! My MBP is back up and running, and now the trackpad clicks again and it sits flat on a table!

    Joel Replogle - 回复

    So no need basically to unscrew all the mac

    Bert0ld0 -

    Joel - the purpose of all of the trouble in removing the logic board is to make sure that you don’t damage anything when you start pull out the battery. After this step - it’s true, you have about 12 connectors and dozens of screws to unplug, but I didn’t have any major problems.

    REASSEMBLY - I had to use alot of force to get the official IFIXIT battery connect to push into place to actually connect. I was worried that one of the wires would stress and break. It worked, but it was not super easy this part.

    Jer - 回复

    I also skipped down to step 50. I stuck a piece of 1/2 inch weather stripping across the middle of the top cover of the laptop to maintain a pitch on the unit so the adhesive remover stayed away from the other components. I applied the remover and used a piece of string to cut through the adhesive strips. I owed the plastic tool from the kit to position the string behind the top of each cell and cut through one ata a time. The battery came out in about 15 minutes. The directions were very informative and useful but I thought the risks associated with dismantling the laptop and reassembling it again were greater. I could not have done it without the details presented. Thank you.

    Thomas Horan - 回复

    Having broken a connector on a logic board in the past, I worried about all the steps. But I understand the disaster that can occur if cleaning fluid contacts the logic board. Weighing costs and benefits, I also did not remove the logic board. I loosened up the speakers (since only two screws could be removed) to give me space to slide the cards under the battery cells. Using the two cards, sometimes sliding one over the other, I was able to remove the battery in 15- 20 minutes. Removing the remaining adhesive was VERY tedious. Eventually I settled on CAREFULLY applying small amounts of remover with the syringe and using the spudger (both pointy and broad ends) to scrape the remainders off. I cleaned the residual with Q-tips dipped in remover (buy a big box of Q-tips), refastened the speakers, installed the new battery, closed the case and voila.

    James Suojanen - 回复

    Question, on the first image above you can read a serial and other information ... The creator of the guide could you confirm if it corresponds exactly to the Apple serial on the box? I wonder why I had the laptop in assistance to replace the GPU, and other problems were born once I returned ... to which removed the cover I saw this sticker and I immediately had doubts about it.

    Antonino Auteri - 回复

    I too found the need to completely teardown the laptop onerous and risky. I’m not certified in anything hardware but I’ve been doing my own repairs for a while. I watched the video referenced above and read the comments there. With some changes, here is what I did, which worked perfectly and minimized the risk, for a whole additional $3 in parts, just myself and in under an hour:

    1. Go to hardware store and get 2 4” bolts ($1 each) and a coil of 20 gauage galvanized wire.

    2. Wrap one end of the wire a few times around one bolt, then tie it off with a knot. Do the same with the other bolt, leaving about 10” of wire between the two.

    3. Follow steps 1-4 in this guide

    4. Slip the wire under one of the outer batteries (use a card or spudger to help get the wire underneath

    5. Grip both bolts with one hand and rock them back and forth, pulling the wire under the battery, using your other hand to hold the case. This should take about 2 seconds (seriously). Repeat for other outer batteries

    (continued)

    steve - 回复

    6. Pull the plastic frames away from the left and right sides of the center batteries.

    7. Repeat steps 4 and 5 for the two center batteries.

    8. Jump to step 55, then reassemble.

    Note: when installing the new battery, ensure the part closest to you is UNDER the two plastic tabs.

    Worked perfectly.

    Link to video: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=fupkPz55...

    Note: using the nylon thread with that much effort is crazy. Use the wire or fishing line.

    steve - 回复

    i just got my Kit and started the procedure, i decided to try if i can get the bulged batteries out with a fishing line, which worked fine. No need to use any solvent and even not too much force was needed to get the line under the batteries. I was able to remove the batteries in about 5min, used another 10min to clean the case from the residue, and put in the new battery. All togehter about 20min of work. I´m very happy with the result, Macbook stays now back on its feet, closes correctly and trackpad works as expected.

    manu - 回复

    Also departed from procedure immediately after STEP # 4 as per JOEL’s recommendation …used a small chunk of fishing line and it worked sans solvent…easily ! Spudger worked quite well to initially position the string /line & the ifixit ( ‘credit’ ) cards were nice for final dislodging of each battery segment from the last bits of residual gooey adhesive , AFTER working the fishing line back & forth down the length of the battery as much as possible. With the old battery out of the way, I used a razor blade to clean out the remaining bits of adhesive gunk. ( Decided NOT to use solvent here, either.) Took me every bit of 1-hour.

    One thing that helped ,too, was a cheap pair of cotton gloves coated on the palm side w/ latex. This kept my fingers comfortable from the pressure of the fishing line & allowed more of a range of force …since I wasn’t wincing from saw-cutting myself !

    John Joslin - 回复

    I skipped steps 5-33. These steps are completely unnecessary. I used the back of a flat tweezers to separate the battery from the case.

    support64 - 回复

    so the only reason they are taking all the stuff off before the battery is because of the solvent?

    I used cards and dental floss and just took the battery out … It was a pain in the butt but i got it out with out using the solvent remover solution.

    GR Verner - 回复

    I skipped steps from 5 to 33 and directlychanged the battery (before disassembling all). Worked fine.

    derdietrich - 回复

  5. 使用撬棒尖端来将三条AirPort天线线缆从 AirPort 板上的插座中径直翘起。
    • 使用撬棒尖端来将三条AirPort天线线缆从 AirPort 板上的插座中径直翘起。

    will this procedure remove my warranty? I have applecare for another 2 years, Laptop was dropped on the side, there is a very small dent on the side of I/O.

    Oleg Babko - 回复

    Yes, this voids your warranty.

    max damage -

    If I am facing the MacBook like I'm surfing or typing, this I/O board is referring to which side of the MacBook? Left or right side? How about replacing the other side of I/O board? The other side I/O port are part of LogicBoard? If I want to replace it, need to replace the whole LogicBoard? TQ.

    Delta - 回复

    These are notoriously difficult to remove. I actually damaged 2/3 of the connector pins during the process. Thankfully i was still able to fit them in place. This step should not be underestimated.

    Alvin Chua - 回复

    If you are not replacing the display case assembly, you can opt to leave all 3 connectors attached and remove the Airport card with them connected. You will need to carefully manage the card and attached cables so as not to damage them(masking tape) as you proceed with disassembly/reassembly. Step 6 will need to be done carefully (camera cable connector). I did it after step 8. I took a picture of routed cables as well before I removed them from channel.

    lamajr -

    I damaged 1/3 of these litte guys, how did you get them back together?!

    is there a way to replace the antenna?

    Fabian Schweinfurth - 回复

    unless you have really tiny fingers, a tweezer helps, just be careful not to damage the wires or the board as your holding each cable in place. Oh and take your time - this is like the most frustrating step in the process, imo.

    Arn Custodio - 回复

    The order of the cables doesn't seem to matter when re-attaching. It also might be helpful to unscrew and eject the airport card. Having it free can give you a better angle.

    joey - 回复

    Definitely the hardest step (when putting it back together). The three pins were on progressively longer plugs, so I put the shortest one on the left and so on. This helps with getting the right angle. I used my fingers and the spudger to guide them back in. It took me easily 10-15 minutes to do this. The pattern that worked eventually was to first adjust the angle of the pin head so that it's x/y/z axes would line up perfectly with the connection if you are able to bring it together just so. If you're off on any of these while you try to bring it together, you won't be able to just click it down at the end. Good luck!

    Thomas Kunjappu - 回复

    Agreed, for some reason, the middle one was stubborn — and I was worried the amount of force I applied to push it back on was going to break something - but it did pop back on.

    Jer -

    After reading so many reviews on ifixit and other sites regarding the difficulty of replacing my MacBook Pro retina screen assembly, I was a bit nervous. Using this walk through made it super easy. Thank you so much for taking the time to create it!

    cabcpa - 回复

    Removing these 3 tiny cables is completely unnecessary. I removed my fan last week to clean and it slips by these cables. For some dumb reason i wanted to follow this "correct" procedure and now one of the gold connections detached from the wire like it was nothing. Seriously, dont do this. I used a spunger and was very delicate putting it back on... And look what happened. SKIP!

    travismlive - 回复

    Yeah, I agree, just leave the airport card attached to the pins and remove the card itself. Then you won’t have to fuss with these connectors.

    Jer -

    @tmm Your right on! Just finished replacing my right fan and your tip saved me from messing with these tiny cables. I totally understand your frustration as I was too just about to stick to the procedure, but if it’s any comfort your tip helped someone… so don’t be surprised being rewarded by some good karma :)

    IT’S UNNECESSARY TO DETACH THE 3 TINY CABLES FROM THE CARD, JUST DETACH THE AIRPORT CARD WITH IT’S CABLES ATTACHED BY GRABING IT FROM BOTH SIDES USING TWO FINGERS AND GENTLY SHAKE IT UNTIL IT DETACHES. THEN MOVE THE WHOLE THING A BIT ASIDE.

    THIS STEP IS ONLY NECESSARY TO MAKE WAY TO THE FAN CONNECTOR UNDERNEATH.

    There is one thing though I find missing which concerns:

    1)The rubber heat sink cover

    2 The AirPort/Camera cables

    3)The IO board cable

    All these are “glued” to the fan and you need to peel them off gently using the spudger, now while I noticed that some glue remains on each cable so they will kinda stick again, I wonder what kind of glue is this and where one can buy it?

    Itai -

    These individual instructions are re-used across multiple tutorials. If you are replacing the battery, you probably won’t need to remove the three connections from the Airport card; if you are replacing the display, you definitely need to replace them, because they are connected to the display. I just replaced the battery and the display in a single activity, so I pretty much had to remove everything. Also agree with a previous commentor that it’s easier to reconnect the cables before the card is reconnected to the system board.

    ChrisMBP -

    travismlive is right, you do not need to remove these cables or the airport card. Just remove the I/O board cable, undo the screws, and detach the antenna cables from the fan where they are glued with a spudger. Unlock the ZIF-socket and the you can wriggle the fan out. Probably saved my airport card, thanks travismlive!

    Jasper - 回复

    I only successfully reattached 1 of the 3 AirPort cables, I just taped the other two. But the AirPort seems to work fine. Do these also have anything to do with Bluetooth though? I do seem to have trouble with Bluetooth after this operation. In any case, it was worth it... I replaced the screen with a new Apple screen for less than 1/2 the Apple Store wanted! Thanks!

    Douglas Johnston - 回复

    Would soldering them back in place be better than taping? I certainly don't want spare solder on my motherboard, so I figure that'd be a last resort only if I lose AirPort connectivity.

    Douglas Johnston - 回复

    Assembly is a nightmare. If rightmost cable is not connected, BT will not work.

    Radoslaw Przybyl - 回复

    the hardest step is reconnecting the airport antenna cables. just have patience< and use tweezers, spluger and a q-tip.

    Frederick Rae - 回复

    The three cables have different lengths. The longest should to the farthest pin, medium to middle, short to nearest.

    Sam Jomaa - 回复

    Also, having the right tools will make the job really easy. I used a spudger similar to the one recommended on this web site. But i had ordered a complete kit from amazon.com. I did not have any problem removing or re-attaching the pins.

    Sam Jomaa - 回复

    tweezers to hold the cable and the flat part of the spudger to push down on the connectors is the easiest way to re-assemble

    Jon Ocampo - 回复

    Replacing these were the most difficult step I encountered. I finally determined that it took slight back and forth twisting of the cable (from left to right as viewed from above) to cause the connector on the cable to twist into position so it could be pressed down.

    chuck60 - 回复

    I read your step and you are 100% correct. This helped me tremendously. Thanks!

    Achilles -

    Use leverage with tip of a spudger, it’s not that difficult to pry the cables.

    When you reassemble, use a tweezers to put the connector on the right position and push it down with a finger on the other hand.

    Grab the neck of the cable when using a tweezers.

    eskoo - 回复

    Several of the people above mentioned not disconnecting these three wires. You must remove and replace these if you are replacing the entire display which is what these instructions are about. This is the most difficult step as others have noted. Just be careful and make sure you have the cable level before you start pushing down.

    Walt Goede - 回复

    If you are not replacing the display case assembly, you can opt to leave all 3 connectors attached and remove the Airport card with them connected. You will need to carefully manage the card and attached cables so as not to damage them(masking tape) as you proceed with disassembly/reassembly. Step 6 will need to be done carefully (camera cable connector). I did it after step 8. I took a picture of routed cables as well before I removed them from channel.

    lamajr - 回复

    Reassembling: What makes this so hard? From all appearances I’m just pressing a squat sleeve-and-pin connector down onto the female counterpart. It appears to be circular and therefore not needing to be oriented radially in any particular angle. It doesn’t look hard at all! Does anyone understand what the subtlety is that causes everyone so much grief?

    Chapman Harrison - 回复

    Reassembling: as so many as commented, this is incredibly hard - and inexplicably so. From all appearances I’m just pressing a squat sleeve-and-pin connector down onto the female counterpart. It doesn’t look hard at all! But I couldn’t do it.

    Here’s what seems to have worked for me: with my left fingertip on the cable holding the connector directly above the female, I used the spudger to press down the flat back of the connector, initially at the top and then sliding along toward the neck. I used normal pressure, and voila, when I lifted the spudger away the wretched wire didn’t spring up again. It was like it wanted to be rocked, or stroked, once, from top to neck, rather than pressed straight down.

    Chapman Harrison - 回复

    I skipped to step 34. Just pushed up the speakers so that they don’t touch the body.

    Sascha Gl Richy - 回复

    I totally agree, this step is not tagged contrarely to others while it is the most dedicate !!! 1/ A warning should be added (the 31 comments should have done it…) 2/True it is possible to skip this step. Result for me : 1/3 damaged (the left one). Luckily, everything seems to work airport, bluetooth (so far, I haven’t tried Airdrop yet). Really disappointed by this guide is way below the iFixit’s standard…

    Antochny - 回复

    Can anyone help me? I would like to replace my speakers. Which steps can i skip?

    Manzil Monabber - 回复

    I have completed replacing my speakers and this step was not needed at all.

    Manzil Monabber - 回复

    I just completed the full screen assembly replacement with 90% success I guess. Like many others noted, this was the hardest step, and one them (leftmost) was extra hard, but I eventually got them all back in. However, I don’t have 5G wifi anymore. 2.4 g works fine, bluetooth works fine, and the screen, camera, and mic are all perfectly functioning. I just can’t connect to 5G wifi. Is there a fix for this?

    Aaron C - 回复

    Absolutely no need to take apart the whole thing, get some strong fishing line and slowly saw the adhesive away. Once the battery is out, (if you are prone to be clumsy just cover/ shield the rest of the computer, than use GOO GONE or the like waiting a couple minutes to scrape out the old adhesive. The only reason they make your take everything out is that they assume you are lazy and will be using the adhesive remover which could damage the rest of the computer if allowed to splatter etc. Just save your self some time and stress, get strong braided fishing line ( works way better than floss or string as it is of a smaller diameter and isn’t smooth and helps the sawing action), and work your way around each cell. This is still way shorter than removing the entire computer and much less likely hood of damaging sensitive connectors.

    Pia Paeh - 回复

    Putting these 3 cables back was a lot of work. I bent the outer side of the middle cable, but was able to fix it with fine tweezers from the repair kit.

    olegpsh - 回复

    I did a screen replacement recently using this guide and the disassembly/assembly was fine - very good instructions. But when I turned on the machine there was a very fine flickering, snow-like interference, especially noticeable on black backgrounds. I assumed it was a faulty replacement screen and continued to use it. Recently, I had to change out the battery so I dissasembled the screen again to see if reconnecting it would fix the problem. Now it is perfect. I think the problem was that the left-most (shortest) airport cable connector was touching the black screw next to it on the board and shorting out. Be careful to position this connector well away from that screw.

    rumblefish - 回复

  6. 使用撬棒的尖端来推动相机线缆位于逻辑板插座上的链接头。
    • 使用撬棒的尖端来推动相机线缆位于逻辑板插座上的链接头。

    • 确保推动方向与逻辑板相平行,先推动一侧,然后让链接头从插座中“走”出来。

    I've broken camera connection socket, is it repairable?

    Sergey - 回复

    Same for me too just take the socket from your broken screen and cut it off and solder it onto the new screen. It was really hard because it's so small but I did it.

    bhayes9614 -

    This is much easier if you do step 7 first so you can pull lightly on the cable and take the tension off the connection caused by the stiff cable.

    mayer - 回复

    This tip worked for me.

    eskoo -

    If you are removing the right fan it is not necessary to unplug the camera cable. You can slip the fan out underneath the cable.

    noahtfu - 回复

    Hi! Camera flex cable is from MBP Retina Mid 2012 & Early 2013. Not Late 2013 :) Edit it please.

    kramerigor - 回复

    the tip of the middle 3 wire was broken on the replacement screen. I didn't connect it and everything seems to work fine, mac hardware test says everything is fine... Is it possible?

    micheleroger - 回复

    Yes. They are wifi antenna cables. Missing one antenna won't affect much, and won't show up in any hardware test.

    Jason Amri -

    Push on the little wings, from right to left.

    Julian Wood - 回复

    This is the hardest part of disassembly! Arguable hardest part of re-assembly too, other than the airport cables

    Jon Ocampo - 回复

    The instruction is not clear to me at all. Frankly the comments mentioning things make me uneasy about proceeding further.

    Ben Moore - 回复

    This came off for me - now my computer’s fan is running high constantly, and “Kernel_task” is using 500% of the CPU even though nothing else is running - what can I do?

    Ryan Brown - 回复

    It is very important to note here that you are NOT pushing up. You are pulling the cable back toward the fan. Doing step 7 first makes that easier. I misunderstood the instruction here (as others seem to have as well) and broke this part. I’m fine with not having a camera on this computer so I’ll leave it or ask my son to help me solder it later.

    Jen Wells - 回复

    The wing closed to the edge of the chassis is completely stuck. I’ve worked on it for an hour. The other wing moves freely. I’m not sure what to do now.

    Charles Lindauer - 回复

    The connector is very tight - I couldn’t even see the join between cable end and the socket and couldn’t see the “ears” on the end of the socket. And, of course, pulling didn’t help. I eventually used tweezers to start things off, gripping on the metal of the socket right where the invisible join was. What a delight to have the join open enough to see! After that, it was easy.

    jerryl - 回复

    Thank You Jerryl - The tweezers did the trick. They want to pop out so you can use your other hand to apply slight downward pressure to keep them in place. Work both ends of the tweezers gently back and forth and you should start to see the gap get bigger.

    Chuck Barton - 回复

    I used tweezers and the spudger. Take the point of the spudger and push on one side of the “dog ear” while supporting the other side with the closed tweezers on the cable side of the dog ear. (Could use a second spudger) work one side the move to the other repeatedly until the connection disconnects.

    This is allows You to push and support simultaneously and minimize the chance damaging the connector.

    Jonathan Dowling - 回复

    Removed cover (Step 7). Released adhesive. Pulled directly out of socket to the left.

    Pushing out of this connector is ill advised, as no mechanical ledge to push.

    Joseph Gorse - 回复

    The late 2013 Macbook connector is slightly different to the picture, I used tweezers to loosen up first and when the joint appeared used the flat edge of the spludger to push the connector using the gap. Don't rush push this from each side gently till it comes out.

    Lanre O - 回复

    I found this step to be difficult due to the picture and instructions being incorrect for MacBook Late 2013. Unfortunately, I damaged the pins during this step and my camera no longer works. :^( Please update this step.

    Cristina Stoll - 回复

    @xtstoll I looked at two separate Late 2013 units today, and both are indistinguishable from what’s shown in the instructions. Are you sure you’re working on the right model? A photo of what this cable looks like on your laptop would be helpful.

    Jeff Suovanen - 回复

  7. 在右侧散热风扇橡胶垫下方插入撬棒扁平的一端。 在下方滑动,来分离粘合剂。 抬起翻开,你就可以靠近下方的线缆了。
    • 在右侧散热风扇橡胶垫下方插入撬棒扁平的一端。

    • 在下方滑动,来分离粘合剂。

    • 抬起翻开,你就可以靠近下方的线缆了。

    Back (case) side of rubber attachment is flimsy-ish, so need to be delicate when peeling rubber back.

    cahcadden - 回复

  8. 使用手指来将 AirPort和摄像头线缆从风扇上剥离。 线缆粘附于风扇上,所以请小心剥离以免损伤。 小心地将电缆从塑料电缆导轨上卸下。
    • 使用手指来将 AirPort和摄像头线缆从风扇上剥离。

    • 线缆粘附于风扇上,所以请小心剥离以免损伤。

    • 小心地将电缆从塑料电缆导轨上卸下。

    It's a bit tricky to re-route the cables when you're installing the new display, so pay close attention to how they're originally routed, to make sure you don't pinch them or torque them.

    PriorityMail - 回复

    Do we need to use some adhesive to paste them back?

    Aniket Suryavanshi - 回复

    I used scotch tape to temporarily hold the cables in place until I was ready to reinstall the bottom cover, but I removed the tape at that last step (didn’t want it coming loose later, and possibly obstructing a fan).

    ChrisMBP - 回复

  9. 使用撬棒的扁平的一端,将I/O板链接插头径直从逻辑板上的插座中翘起。在重新组装时,首先连接这个端点,因为它不会弯曲。 以类似的方式,将I / O板连接插头从I / O板上的插座中取出。 从MacBook Pro中取出I / O板电缆。
    • 使用撬棒的扁平的一端,将I/O板链接插头径直从逻辑板上的插座中翘起。在重新组装时,首先连接这个端点,因为它不会弯曲。

    • 以类似的方式,将I / O板连接插头从I / O板上的插座中取出。

    • 从MacBook Pro中取出I / O板电缆。

    Note that the Mac has been rotated 180º between steps 8 & 9

    peteyx - 回复

    When reinstalling the io board cable make sure it is the correct way round as in the photo, it fits the wrong way round as well, which results in the MacBook not starting at all.

    bitmat23 - 回复

    Sockets are ZIF with releasing levers on the top. If you pull up on the top padding, you will reveal silver lever handels facing the rear of the machine. Pry up on the LEVER to release the pressure, then pull the lever straight up to release the connector from the socket. DO NOT pry under the edge of the connector to remove these or you may damage the ZIF socket. They may have changed these connectors between models, otherwise I don’t know how this was overlooked in the guide.

    hybrid - 回复

    I just did this and there are no silver lever handles. The connectors just pop off when you pry on them.

    edc - 回复

    After freeing each end of the I/O cable, it can be left stuck to the right speaker, and then remove them both together in step 14.

    Paul Clarke - 回复

  10. 移除一颗将AirPort板与逻辑板相固定的2.9mm T5 梅花螺丝。
    • 移除一颗将AirPort板与逻辑板相固定的2.9mm T5 梅花螺丝。

  11. 抓住AirPort板的短边然后朝着与逻辑板相平行的方向拉出,从MacBook Pro上移除AirPort板。 抓住AirPort板的短边然后朝着与逻辑板相平行的方向拉出,从MacBook Pro上移除AirPort板。
    • 抓住AirPort板的短边然后朝着与逻辑板相平行的方向拉出,从MacBook Pro上移除AirPort板。

    As others have mentioned, it's not necessary to remove the Airport antenna cables. Leave the cables attached and remove the Airport card.

    Swing the card and the attached cables across the fan.

    stvn chng - 回复

    You may lift a little like few degrees then pull parallel when removing.

    eskoo - 回复

    There might be a touch of adhesive, lift first – a gentle touch with the spudger helps.

    Tristan Harward - 回复

    Yes, lift about 5-10 degrees first, then pull out. If you do not release the adhesive, it may be stuck in place and you could damage the card trying to pull it out.

    hybrid - 回复

  12. 使用撬棒的尖端来将右风扇的排线ZIF插座解锁。 请确保您在撬动插座铰链而不是插座本身。
    • 使用撬棒的尖端来将右风扇的排线ZIF插座解锁。

    • 请确保您在撬动插座铰链而不是插座本身。

    • 从电缆顶部开始,在右侧风扇电缆下面滑动塑料打开工具,将其从逻辑板上取出。

    • 取出电缆时要小心谨慎,因为它牢固地固定在逻辑板上。

    I was able to flip the retaining flap while removing the damaged fan but accidentally dislodged after installing the replacement fan. Again, be very careful at this stage. Thankfully my new fan appears to function normally.

    Alvin Chua - 回复

    Easier to do while removing fan.

    mayer - 回复

    The second picture and illustration are not clear enough. The text should say "pry underneath the cable" as I almost broke the fan cable following instruction.

    Kitipong Mork - 回复

    ZIF = Ziero Insertion Force. Once the tiny retaining flap is up, it should slide out easily toward the back. There was no adhesive on my machine, so the cable slid out easily. But be careful if yours is glued down.

    Don Steele - 回复

    I don’t know why, but I could pull the connector out & in without flipping up the flap. And fans are working flawlessly.

    eskoo - 回复

    The pictures were confusing to me so let me add some more context. There is a ZIF socket (Zero insertion force) being addressed in the first picture. This socket has a black top that is currently closed down on the socket. Using your tool you need to lift this flap up to release the wire underneath (This release happens in the second step). Hence only pull up on the black flap enough to make it go from horizontal to vertical (Swing flap). Neither picture shows it in the up position. Step 2, Picture 2, Then gliding your flat spudger, you goal is to lift the wire that was in the ZIF socket out by lightly lifting up on both the wire and the rubber cushion on top of it. Make sure you lift both. You are successful when both are lifted up and out and facing vertical instead of horizontal.

    Frank D - 回复

    Great clarification, thank you.

    Hunter Gallagher -

    Can anyone advise what to do if the ZIF socket pulls up from the logic board? I was gentle with it, but it pulled up anyway. The fan and ribbon are fine, but I’m worried this will require an expensive logic board repair.

    Jaysmi - 回复

    To really see which part of the ZIF socket has to be lifted up you should compare the pictures of step 10 and of step 12, preferably in its original size.

    Then you can see that the inner part of the ZIF has to be moved up, away from the batteries.

    Stephan Yaraghchi - 回复

    I managed to broke the side, thought this was pulling on sides mechanism to release, not just upwards. Luckily I managed to attach it and the fan is working.

    Josip Ricov - 回复

    Here is video how to open the ZIF socket. https://youtu.be/MQbqpWkCz94?t=360

    Ketut Sandiarsa - 回复

    Many thanks Ketut, that vid clip really helped!

    Paul Clarke -

  13. 在此插入翻译
    • 在此插入翻译

    • 一颗 4.4mm T5 梅花 螺丝

    • 一颗 3.9mm T5 宽头梅花 螺丝

    • 一颗 5.0mm T5 梅花螺丝 带有一个2mm套管。

  14. 从MacBook Pro中提起移走右风扇。
    • 从MacBook Pro中提起移走右风扇。

  15. 使用撬棒的扁平一端来翘起左侧风扇上的橡胶导热槽。
    • 使用撬棒的扁平一端来翘起左侧风扇上的橡胶导热槽。

    This came of super easy as the glue seemed to have dried up or something of that nature; anyone know if this is an issue?

    Also it seemed like there are clips on sides of the rubber heat sink which I couldn't work out how to clip it back on, so I placed it back where it was after and it seems to be ok; maybe it isn't meant to clip on hard and rather just to be a security measure. Anyone else had this?

    RT0 - 回复

    I had the same experience as you this was super easy to remove as well.

    spearson - 回复

    Glue was long gone. It just flops over by itself.

    Jer - 回复

    I have this feeling that my “noisi fan” was actually the loose end of this rubber cover. So verify that you insert rubber clips back to its slots on under the edge of the sink.

    Albert Stein - 回复

  16. 移除下列三颗将左风扇固定在逻辑板上的螺丝。
    • 移除下列三颗将左风扇固定在逻辑板上的螺丝。

    • 一颗 4.4mm T5 梅花螺丝。

    • 一颗 5.0mm T5 梅花螺丝, 包含一个2mm套管。

    • 一颗 3.9mm T5 宽头梅花螺丝。

    check if screw marking here is right

    Oleg - 回复

    One 3.9 mm T5 Wide Head Torx screw

    what exactly do you mean by wide head torx screw? Is that another torx screw i should buy?

    best regards,

    Seth

    sethroot - 回复

    “Wide Head” just refers to the head of the screw being a bit wider than the others. It shouldn’t affect the size of the tool needed. That said, I also was unable to remove this screw with a T5. The screw on mine looked corroded. I ended up using Vampliers (great tool).

    maccentric -

    seems like T5 is the wrong screwdriver for the "3.9 mm T5 Wide Head Torx screw"

    ryanbraganza - 回复

    T4 seems to have worked for me

    jonathaniscarroll - 回复

    i tried unscrewing the screw with a yellow circle around it but it is not unscrewing i think it is stripped

    Habib Sy - 回复

  17. 使用撬棒尖端来将风扇排线从ZIF插座上解锁下来。 请确保您在撬动铰链部分而不是插座本身。 从线缆顶部开始,在线缆底部滑入一个塑料打开工具来将线缆从逻辑板上卸下。
    • 使用撬棒尖端来将风扇排线从ZIF插座上解锁下来。

    • 请确保您在撬动铰链部分而不是插座本身。

    • 从线缆顶部开始,在线缆底部滑入一个塑料打开工具来将线缆从逻辑板上卸下。

    • 卸下电缆时要小心谨慎,因为它牢固地固定在逻辑板上。 如有必要,请使用iOpener或吹风机加热电缆,以便软化粘合剂并使其更易于清除。

    • 从设备上取出左风扇。

    a question out of curiosity is it possible to remove that left fan completely and use and external fan instead of it?

    and what is that fan for? is it for CPU or VGA? i noticed someone was referring to that fan as vga's fan.

    Albert Einstein - 回复

    I can't imagine any scenario why one might want to do that Einstein. An external fan on a laptop? Seriously?

    maccentric - 回复

    I would say that my cable was permanently adhered, or at least requires chemistry to remove the adhesive. Definitely check if fan parts are in stock before attempting to remove the cable that doesn't seem to be coming loose from the motherboard.

    orders - 回复

    Couldn’t manage to “flip up the retaining flap on the left fan ribbon cable ZIF socket.”, in fact think I may may broken a piece off. In the end just pulled out the cable by sliding it down and out (maybe I did manage to loosen it after all). Cable didn’t appear to be glued down thankfully.

    Chris McKay - 回复

    Holes on the new fan did not exactly match up and ribbon cable has more tension as a result -

    I had to cut the loop on the mount for the 4.4 mm T5 Torx screw. Not ideal.

    Scott Evans - 回复

    So, what do I do if I break the connector on the board? Serious question, yes I did it. Now, how do I get the replacement part?

    Amin Shah Gilani - 回复

    The retaining flat is super fragile. And I doubt there’s any practical way to replace it. Don’t know if the connector still works ok without the flap.

    Steven DeRose - 回复

    After I exchanged the fan it‘s super noisy. I ordered at the ifixit shop and it seems it works but it‘s just super noisy. Does anyone know why?

    Thanks

    Karsten Hullebeck - 回复

    I have the same issue with my newly replaced fan…sounds worse than the broken one - will need to check with the ifixit team…

    Markus Meßerschmidt -

    reported this to the support team and got a replacement within one day. The new part works fine - no noise at all, old one is on the way back. Thank you iFixit!

    Markus Meßerschmidt -

  18. 拧下把SSD固态硬盘固定到主板的 3.1 mm T5 Torx 螺丝。
    • 拧下把SSD固态硬盘固定到主板的 3.1 mm T5 Torx 螺丝。

    When I got to this step I realized the screw was stripped. I'm unsure if it was stripped by my efforts -- I used the prescribed P5 screwdriver that was also used for the other screws, and the screwdriver still works when putting the lid back on.

    So to extract the stripped screw in Step 5 I've ordered iFixit's Precision Screw Extractor Set.

    Now I'm wondering if I also need to find a replacement screw since I probably won't be able to use the stripped one again after it's been extracted? The screw is called: 3.1 mm T5 Torx screw as per this guide .. the best I can find on eBay are screws called: 1,4 X 3,1 mm Torx T5 or 1,5 X 3,1 mm Torx T5 ... will one of these work? Would I be able to just go to a hardware store and find the proper screw or is it a specialty item?

    Lorte Messenger - 回复

    I'm sure you've long since figured it out, but for the benefit of anyone else reading this, a P5 is not a T5. It's a different screwdriver. The driver for the screws on the outside of the case will not work on the screw holding the SSD. I'm not sure why they left it off in the list of tools at the top.

    Dave Miller -

    The screws on the outside of the case are Pentalobe.

    The screw for the SSD is Torx.

    Both drivers are (now) on the list of required tools.

    (However, my devices both have a T6 head, not T5. May have been after-market.)

    jkgarrett17 -

    For the Macbook Pro Retina 15" Late 2013 models, I've heard the SSD is soldered to the logic board. This guide is for that model, but it doesn't address the soldering issue. Have I just been misinformed on this issue? Has anyone tried it with the late 2013 model yet?

    Elaine - 回复

    The SSD is not soldered to the board. You maybe thinking of the RAM which is soldered. (thank you apple) *dripping sarcasm*

    Ryan Tucker -

    I was needing to send my mid 2014 15" MacBook Pro in for a keyboard repair, and my company IT department shipped me a loaner of the same model except that it had a smaller SSD in it than mine, and said I should swap the SSDs between the two and then send mine back with the smaller drive in it to get fixed. I've been unable to swap the drives because neither mine nor the loaner (which are both the same model) appear to have a T5 screw holding the SSD in place. Both of them appear to have a T4, not a T5 (whatever it is is smaller than a T5 anyway, so I'm guessing it's a T4). So now I'm on hold until I can find a T4 screwdriver.

    Dave Miller - 回复

    OK, got the new tool set, and yes, it really is actually a T5 screw, you just need a really sharp driver. My existing T5 driver was getting a little dull on the tip. So make sure you have a really new/precision T5 driver/bit to use (and again I'll point out that ifixit failed to list this tool in the list of needed tools at the top).

    Dave Miller -

    It's definitely a T5, just takes more control vs only strength. I went left and right in small increments while pushing down to let the screwdriver dig in before slowly being able to loosen it up.

    Toan Tran - 回复

    Both of my A1398 computers (Mid-2012 Retina 15” and Late 2013 Retina 15”) have a screw that my T6 bit fits perfectly. If using a T5 screwdriver/bit makes your screw seem stripped, try the T6.

    (The 2012 was purchased second-hand, and the 2013 was purchased from a dealer known for unauthorized upgrades; it is possible my screws were swapped.)

    jkgarrett17 - 回复

    I’m pretty certain this screw is a tiny bit larger diameter than the others — I mixed it up and tried to use it elsewhere, and it wouldn’t fit, so IO swapped in another and set this one aside. Later when I got to this point, other screws were too small and wouldn’t grab. So I tried the one I had set aside earlier, and it fit perfectly. That might explain why this one seemed “stripped” to another commentator.

    Steven DeRose - 回复

  19. 轻轻提起最右边 SSD 固态硬盘,把它从主板的槽里直接滑出来。 轻轻提起最右边 SSD 固态硬盘,把它从主板的槽里直接滑出来。
    • 轻轻提起最右边 SSD 固态硬盘,把它从主板的槽里直接滑出来。

  20. Android 维修工具包

    一个新的屏幕或电池就在一个套件之内。

    现在开始购物

    Android 维修工具包

    一个新的屏幕或电池就在一个套件之内。

    现在开始购物
  21. 使用撬棒尖端将I / O板数据电缆锁向上翻,并将其向计算机的电池侧旋转。 使用撬棒的扁平端将I / O板数据电缆从逻辑板上的插槽中滑出。
    • 使用撬棒尖端将I / O板数据电缆锁向上翻,并将其向计算机的电池侧旋转。

    • 使用撬棒的扁平端将I / O板数据电缆从逻辑板上的插槽中滑出。

    • 请勿抬起I / O板数据电缆,因为其插口非常脆弱。 将电缆平行于逻辑板的表面拉动。

    This is a difficult step. A few images for the removal of the cable would be good/better

    Robert Jan Lebbink - 回复

    I helped me to use the pliers both to get underneath the canble lock and then push on the wings of the cable.

    Calvin Truong - 回复

    Used fingers on the cable lock.

    Joseph Gorse - 回复

  22. 移除两颗固定I/O板的3.1mm T5 梅花螺丝。 小心地提起I/O板,并将其从底壳中移除。
    • 移除两颗固定I/O板的3.1mm T5 梅花螺丝。

    • 小心地提起I/O板,并将其从底壳中移除。

    This did not want to come out. The bottom was really wedged in there good. I had to pry up the bottom part with a screw driver. The funny thing was it was really easy to put back in. *shrug*

    Jer - 回复

    it actually has an extra screw that needs to be removed.

    Reid Rankin - 回复

    Thank you. Removing the screw by the heat sink really helped get this board removed.

    Christopher Hofmann -

    It helped me to push the IO board further into the casing and then lifting.

    Calvin Truong - 回复

    i/o cable was much easier to remove after freeing the i/o board & slightly lifting it. SK

    Stefan Kirchanski - 回复

  23. 使用挑线器的扁平端向上撬起左侧扬声器连接器,并将其从逻辑板上的插座中撬出。 使用挑线器的尖端将右扬声器连接器向上撬出逻辑板上的插座。
    • 使用挑线器的扁平端向上撬起左侧扬声器连接器,并将其从逻辑板上的插座中撬出。

    • 使用挑线器的尖端将右扬声器连接器向上撬出逻辑板上的插座。

    • 一定要撬动电缆链接头,而不是在插座本身。 插入插座撬动可能导致插座与逻辑板分离。

    At this point, it should be noted that the author is using two different logic boards through the procedure. Here, for the first time is the difference between a 2.3 GHz board and the 2.6 GHz board. The audio out socket is integral to the 2.3 GHz board. The 2.6 GHz board has a discrete audio out jack that plugs into the logic board. As the disassembly proceeds, the 2.6 board’s audio outlet is unplugged (Step 26/27 pictures note this, but the author doesn’t. So, as I hoped, the 2.3 GHz board can be replaced by a 2.6 GHz board, IF you don’t want an audio out jack!

    David White - 回复

    Correction. The two boards are NOT compatible. The battery connector and others do not align. A faulty 2.3 GHz logic board is no excuse to get a faster board.

    David White - 回复

    Note that you should SLIDE not pull these out. Just broke one of them.

    andershegelund - 回复

    On this model they should be pried straight up from the board as instructed. If your connector looks different from what’s shown in the photos, proceed with caution, verify your model number and make sure you’re following the corresponding guide.

    Jeff Suovanen -

  24. 剥开覆盖键盘带状电缆连接器顶部的胶带。 使用挑线器的扁平端将键盘带状电缆ZIF插座上的固定挡板翻起来。 确保你在铰链固定盖上撬动,而不是插座本身。
    • 剥开覆盖键盘带状电缆连接器顶部的胶带。

    • 使用挑线器的扁平端将键盘带状电缆ZIF插座上的固定挡板翻起来。

    • 确保你在铰链固定盖上撬动,而不是插座本身。

    • 使用挑线器的扁平端将键盘带状电缆从插座中推出。

    I can't fit the ribbon cable back in the slot. It was hard to take out a well. Any tips? I'm going crazy

    Jennifer McAuliffe - 回复

    The trick is to align it so that it slides in perfectly straight and level with the surface of the logic board. It's made more difficult by the way the ribbon cable bends around the edge of the logic board, which puts tension on it and makes it harder to align. I usually position it with a finger on each side and then press gently on the top with a spudger or other tool to help level it out. It should slide into place reasonably easily at that point. Good luck!

    Jeff Suovanen -

    For me the angle of this picture was kind of confusing. Just to make sure it is clear, to anyone else (and they don’t break off the protective plastic piece for the pins like I did), the hinged flap is at the opposite end from the ribbon cable. Where the spudger is in the second picture kind of looks like the middle of the part, but no. From the angle these pictures are taken, it is the plastic piece closest to you. I don’t know why it took me so long to figure this out, and I feel like a bit of an idiot for not doing so more quickly. But hey, maybe reading this comment will help someone not make the mistake I did.

    Parker Young - 回复

    For my MacBook Pro mid 2014, the socket type was a lever. Looking at the battery, carefully lift it so it makes an angle of 90 degrees, then the cable was easily removable.

    Mike Bachman - 回复

    the tape actually helps remove the cable. Just hold the tape and pull it back towards the battery. The ribbon cable will slide right out. Easy. No tools needed.

    Pranav Singanapalli - 回复

  25. 使用挑线器的扁平端将触控板带状电缆连接器从其插座上撬出。
    • 使用挑线器的扁平端将触控板带状电缆连接器从其插座上撬出。

  26. 使用挑线器的扁平端从逻辑板上的插座上撬起键盘背光连接器。
    • 使用挑线器的扁平端从逻辑板上的插座上撬起键盘背光连接器。

  27. 使用挑线器的尖端或指甲翻转麦克风带状电缆ZIF插座上的固定盖。
    • 使用挑线器的尖端或指甲翻转麦克风带状电缆ZIF插座上的固定盖。

    • 确保你在铰链固定盖上撬动,而不是插座本身。

    • 将麦克风带状电缆从插座中拔出。

  28. 使用挑线器的顶端将显示数据电缆锁定向上翻转并将其朝计算机的电源插口DC-In侧旋转。 将显示数据线直接从逻辑板上的插座中拔出。
    • 使用挑线器的顶端将显示数据电缆锁定向上翻转并将其朝计算机的电源插口DC-In侧旋转。

    • 将显示数据线直接从逻辑板上的插座中拔出。

    • 请勿抬起显示器数据线,因为其插口非常脆弱。 将电缆平行于逻辑板的表面拉。

  29. 使用挑线器的平端小心地撬起MagSafe 2连接器附近凸起螺钉头上的橡胶螺帽。
    • 使用挑线器的平端小心地撬起MagSafe 2连接器附近凸起螺钉头上的橡胶螺帽。

    This may be a matter of a 2.3GHz vs a 2.6GHz board, but on mine the raised-head screw - and the rubber cover - are on the other side of the black metal whatever it is, about centered relative to the cable connector to its left.

    jerryl - 回复

    same thing for me too.

    William Corwin - 回复

  30. 卸下将逻辑板固定到上壳上的以下六个螺丝:
    • 卸下将逻辑板固定到上壳上的以下六个螺丝:

    • 一个3.1毫米T5 梅花螺丝

    • 一个2.5毫米T5 梅花螺丝

    • 一个5.5毫米银色凸头T5梅花螺丝

    • 两个5.7毫米T5梅花螺丝

    • 一个3.8毫米银色T5 梅花螺丝

  31. 从靠近电池的一侧抬起,将逻辑板向MacBook Pro的顶部旋转。 您可能需要将逻辑板向左滑动几毫米,以便沿着电路板右边缘的端口获得间隙。
    • 从靠近电池的一侧抬起,将逻辑板向MacBook Pro的顶部旋转。

    • 您可能需要将逻辑板向左滑动几毫米,以便沿着电路板右边缘的端口获得间隙。

    • 使用挑线器的扁平端,小心地将MagSafe 2连接器从逻辑板底部的插座中拔出。

    I wasn't able to get the magsafe connector off easily; it was easier to just remove the 2 screws holding the magsafe port in place, then disconnect it after the the logic board was removed.

    Derek Gelormini - 回复

    Completely agree. I just did the same.

    ChrisMBP -

    Same here. Removing the MagSafe screws should also be included.

    Christopher Hofmann -

    Agreed, after reading your comment I also simply removed the magsafe connector.

    Bruno Essmann -

    Agree, just did the same. It is safer.

    Pantelidis Pantelis - 回复

    100% agree, recommend updating this article to suggest removing the mag safe connector at the same time and save the hassle and potential damage trying to remove the connect from the logic board. far easier and safer to simple remove the two screws and lift out the mag safe connector at the same time as the logic board.

    calum.h - 回复

    Confirmed, I removed the screws of the magboard so the whole magboard was removed together with the logic board at the same time (MacBook Pro mid 2014).

    Mike Bachman - 回复

    My logic board is stuck on the audio, USB, and TB connectors and the chassis. Turned out it was connectors near the battery connector catching the logic board.

    Joseph Gorse - 回复

    There’s one more connect next to the SSD socket, that I can’t find mentioned, and is hard to disconnect.

    Steven DeRose - 回复

  32. 从MacBook Pro中取出逻辑板组件。 重新安装主板时,请确保所有电缆都可见并且未被卡在主板下。 从顶部顺时针方向:电池,右扬声器,键盘背光灯,AirPort /相机,显示器,麦克风,左扬声器,键盘和触控板。
    • 从MacBook Pro中取出逻辑板组件。

    • 重新安装主板时,请确保所有电缆都可见并且未被卡在主板下。

    • 从顶部顺时针方向:电池,右扬声器,键盘背光灯,AirPort /相机,显示器,麦克风,左扬声器,键盘和触控板。

    A little “scotch tape” can be used to hold the various cables out of the way. Then the replacement board almost falls into place.

    David White - 回复

    Now that I’m done re-assembly, I wish I had paid attention to the second image where all the cables that need to come above the logic board are highlighted in red. I took me three tries of screwing in the logic board in before I properly accounted for all of them

    Albert Einstein - 回复

  33. 移除下列3颗将左侧扬声器与顶壳相固定的螺丝。 1颗 5.6mm T5 梅花螺丝
    • 移除下列3颗将左侧扬声器与顶壳相固定的螺丝。

    • 1颗 5.6mm T5 梅花螺丝

    • 1颗 6.9mm T5 梅花螺丝

    • 1颗 2.6mm T5 梅花螺丝

    • 将扬声器从顶壳中取出,将其放在一旁。

    On my MBP there was an adhesive holding the speakers down. So, "lifting" was not exactly accurate.

    Fred Anderson - 回复

    Yeah there’s a tiny smidgen of glue around the speaker itself. I just slowly put force on it and it ripped off quite easily.

    Jer - 回复

    I have A1398 15 inch , need to replace or fixed left speaker but i can’t find One 2.6 mm T5 Torx screw(yellow one), any idea what to do here?

    Biswajit Patra - 回复

    can you get too the speaker without taking the logic board first

    gianguyen1991 - 回复

    How it possible to get speaker out if system without taking the logic board first?

    Biswajit Patra -

  34. 移除下列将右侧扬声器固定在顶壳上的三颗螺丝。 1颗 5.6mm T5 梅花螺丝
    • 移除下列将右侧扬声器固定在顶壳上的三颗螺丝。

    • 1颗 5.6mm T5 梅花螺丝

    • 1颗 6.9mm T5 梅花螺丝

    • 1颗 2.6mm T5 梅花螺丝

    • 从MacBook Pro中移出右扬声器。

    My speaker wire was wedged under the edge of the battery. I proceeded to step 35 and removed the two battery screws. This freed up the cable.

    Fred Anderson - 回复

    Mine was stuck too, and I did what Fred did and waited to step 35 to try and remove the cable. It turned out not to be wedged under anything, but just glued in place.

    Chapman Harrison - 回复

  35. 移除两颗固定电池板的3.2mm T5梅花螺丝。
    • 移除两颗固定电池板的3.2mm T5梅花螺丝。

    I also skipped from step#4 to step #34. I was very careful with the adhesive remover application to keep it from oozing into the speakers and other components by keeping the MB tilted and let gravity do the work. I also took the precaution of protecting display with aluminum foil. I used a plastic putty knife as well to help dislodge the battery cells. Removing adhesive remnants was a PITA. I used the plastic putty knife & liquid adhesive remover to scrape that stuff off. Full process took about 1 HR. Currently calibrating battery. Looks like this repair was a success!

    lamajr - 回复

    It is not so easy to reintall the battery board, i had to push the battery hard.

    I am not completely satisfied

    Pantelidis Pantelis - 回复

  36. 套件中的液体粘合剂去除剂会影响MacBook Pro显示屏上的抗反射涂层。
    • 套件中的液体粘合剂去除剂会影响MacBook Pro显示屏上的抗反射涂层。

    • 为了保护您的显示器,请在显示器和键盘之间放置一张铝箔,并在工作时将其留在那里。

  37. 在MacBook Pro的前端朝向您的情况下,抬起右侧并用一个坚固的泡沫块或书本稍微支撑一下。 在下面的步骤中,您将液体粘合剂去除剂滴到电池的右边(外部)边缘。 保持MacBook Pro的这一侧的高度将帮助胶粘剂去除剂在电池下方流动。
    • 在MacBook Pro的前端朝向您的情况下,抬起右侧并用一个坚固的泡沫块或书本稍微支撑一下。

    • 在下面的步骤中,您将液体粘合剂去除剂滴到电池的右边(外部)边缘。 保持MacBook Pro的这一侧的高度将帮助胶粘剂去除剂在电池下方流动。

  38. 现在,您的MacBook Pro已经完全准备就绪,现在是时候给你自己做好准备了。 iFixit粘合剂去除剂含有丙酮,对皮肤温和眼对眼睛刺激。
    • 现在,您的MacBook Pro已经完全准备就绪,现在是时候给你自己做好准备了。

    • iFixit粘合剂去除剂含有丙酮,对皮肤温和眼对眼睛刺激。

    • 处理和使用粘合剂去除剂时请佩戴护目镜。 (护目镜包含在您的套件中。)

    • 不戴隐形眼镜不戴隐形眼镜。

    • 套件中还包括防护手套。 如果您担心可能的皮肤刺激,请立即戴上手套。

  39. 从你的粘合剂去除剂瓶中取下黑色橡胶塞。 在切割涂抹器尖端之前拧开以松开或取下瓶盖。 这会打开瓶子并在切割涂抹器尖端之前使压力均衡。如果跳过此步骤,粘合剂去除器可能会在切割尖端时意外喷出。
    • 从你的粘合剂去除剂瓶中取下黑色橡胶塞。

    • 在切割涂抹器尖端之前拧开以松开或取下瓶盖。

    • 这会打开瓶子并在切割涂抹器尖端之前使压力均衡。如果跳过此步骤,粘合剂去除器可能会在切割尖端时意外喷出。

    • 用剪刀剪掉涂抹器的密封尖端。

    • 靠近狭窄的尖端切割将使你获得更好的控制,因此你可以少量使用粘合剂去除剂。

    • 在进一步操作之前,请拧紧并关闭瓶盖。

    I did not use the adhesive remover. I found that the guitar pic, when forced, could go through the adhesive. It was not long enough, so using a credit card’s corner and forcing it slowly in, and back and forth, I was able to break the adhesive. I assisted this with a very fine fishing line (dental floss would be better) and a sawing motion under the battery. I did not use hard force. I just took my time and kept lifting up on the battery.

    There will be residual adhesive remaining on the computer’s chassis from the battery.. For the most part, this can be removed by a combination of using the card or iFixit guitar pic and pushing against the remaining adhesive. Working at with the fingers will complete the job.

    Just take your time….

    Larry_Rymal - 回复

  40. 沿右外电池单元的升高边缘均匀涂抹几滴粘合剂。 你不需要使用太多。小瓶子含有的溶剂量是拆除所有电池所需溶剂量的两倍以上。
    • 沿右外电池单元的升高边缘均匀涂抹几滴粘合剂。

    • 你不需要使用太多。小瓶子含有的溶剂量是拆除所有电池所需溶剂量的两倍以上。

    • 等待2-3分钟,让液体粘合剂去除剂渗入电池单元下方,然后再进行下一步。

  41. 将塑料卡的一个角落滑动到电池外缘的下方。 这可能会有助于轻轻扭动卡,打开电池和MacBook Pro的情况之间的一个微小的空隙。 将电池单元向下滑动,使其与将电池固定在MacBook Pro上盖上的粘合剂分开。
    • 将塑料卡的一个角落滑动到电池外缘的下方。

    • 这可能会有助于轻轻扭动卡,打开电池和MacBook Pro的情况之间的一个微小的空隙。

    • 将电池单元向下滑动,使其与将电池固定在MacBook Pro上盖上的粘合剂分开。

  42. 提起电池将其从MacBook Pro的顶壳分离,但不要尝试将其取出。 将塑料卡留在电池下方,以防止电池在进行下一步时再次粘住。
    • 提起电池将其从MacBook Pro的顶壳分离,但不要尝试将其取出。

    • 将塑料卡留在电池下方,以防止电池在进行下一步时再次粘住。

  43. 沿着下一个电池单元的高边均匀地涂上少量的粘合剂去除剂。 在进行下一步之前,等待2-3分钟让液体粘合剂去除剂渗入电池下方。
    • 沿着下一个电池单元的高边均匀地涂上少量的粘合剂去除剂。

    • 在进行下一步之前,等待2-3分钟让液体粘合剂去除剂渗入电池下方。

  44. 将塑料卡的一个角滑到第二个电池下面。 将卡推到第二个电池下方,并将其左右滑动以分离下面的粘合剂。 将塑料卡留在两个电池单元下方(或将其翻转)以防止它们在继续下一步时重新粘附。
    • 将塑料卡的一个角滑到第二个电池下面。

    • 将卡推到第二个电池下方,并将其左右滑动以分离下面的粘合剂。

    • 将塑料卡留在两个电池单元下方(或将其翻转)以防止它们在继续下一步时重新粘附。

  45. 现在是切换方向的时候了。 取出您的书或泡沫块,并将其放在MacBook Pro的另一侧。 重复以上步骤中的步骤来分离这一侧的两个电池单元: 将胶粘剂去除剂涂在外层电池的高边上,等待2-3分钟。
    • 现在是切换方向的时候了。 取出您的书或泡沫块,并将其放在MacBook Pro的另一侧。

    • 重复以上步骤中的步骤来分离这一侧的两个电池单元:

    • 将胶粘剂去除剂涂在外层电池的高边上,等待2-3分钟。

    • 在电池下方的塑料卡的一个角上工作,然后将卡完全滑入电池下面将其分开。

    • 对相邻的电池组做同样的事情。

    • 将塑料卡放在适当的位置,或将电池翻转过来,以免在下面的步骤中重新粘住电池。

  46. 在MacBook Pro的左侧边缘仍然支撑的情况下,在两个中间电池单元之间的中线下方涂上少量的粘合剂。 等待2-3分钟让粘合剂去除剂继续渗透。
    • 在MacBook Pro的左侧边缘仍然支撑的情况下,在两个中间电池单元之间的中线下方涂上少量的粘合剂。

    • 等待2-3分钟让粘合剂去除剂继续渗透。

  47. 使用塑料卡片的一角来在中间两个电池之间滑动,并在中右部电池单元的升高的边缘处滑动下去。 将卡片滑到电池单元的下方更远的地方 ,通过这样将其固定到位的粘合剂进行切割。 不要试图完全分开这个电池。 将塑料卡留在原处,以防止其重新粘贴。
    • 使用塑料卡片的一角来在中间两个电池之间滑动,并在中右部电池单元的升高的边缘处滑动下去。

    • 将卡片滑到电池单元的下方更远的地方 ,通过这样将其固定到位的粘合剂进行切割。

    • 不要试图完全分开这个电池。 将塑料卡留在原处,以防止其重新粘贴。

  48. 如果您还没有将两个未粘贴的右侧电池翻转过来,请将它放在MacBook Pro的前端。 这将允许接触中心单元的外部边缘。 如果您还没有将两个未粘贴的右侧电池翻转过来,请将它放在MacBook Pro的前端。 这将允许接触中心单元的外部边缘。 如果您还没有将两个未粘贴的右侧电池翻转过来,请将它放在MacBook Pro的前端。 这将允许接触中心单元的外部边缘。
    • 如果您还没有将两个未粘贴的右侧电池翻转过来,请将它放在MacBook Pro的前端。 这将允许接触中心单元的外部边缘。

  49. 将塑料卡的一个角推到塑料电池框架下方,并在下部中央单元的其余粘合边缘下方。 不要沿着靠近电池连接器的边缘撬动,否则可能损坏键盘带状电缆。
    • 将塑料卡的一个角推到塑料电池框架下方,并在下部中央单元的其余粘合边缘下方。

    • 不要沿着靠近电池连接器的边缘撬动,否则可能损坏键盘带状电缆。

    • 将卡完全滑入电池下方,并将其留在电池上,以防止电池重新粘附。

  50. 取出插入右中间电池下面的第一张塑料卡。 取出插入右中间电池下面的第一张塑料卡。
    • 取出插入右中间电池下面的第一张塑料卡。

  51. 取出你的书或泡沫块。 MacBook Pro的前端朝向您,抬起右侧并再次支撑起来。
    • 取出你的书或泡沫块。

    • MacBook Pro的前端朝向您,抬起右侧并再次支撑起来。

  52. 在两个中央电池单元之间涂上几滴粘合剂去除剂,使其流入剩余的电池单元之下。 等待2-3分钟让粘合剂去除剂继续渗透。
    • 在两个中央电池单元之间涂上几滴粘合剂去除剂,使其流入剩余的电池单元之下。

    • 等待2-3分钟让粘合剂去除剂继续渗透。

  53. 将塑料卡的一个角落滑到最终电池单元的升高边缘下方。 将电池单元下方的卡推入,将粘合剂固定到位。 不要试图完全分开这个电池。 将塑料卡留在原处,以防止其重新粘贴。
    • 将塑料卡的一个角落滑到最终电池单元的升高边缘下方。

    • 将电池单元下方的卡推入,将粘合剂固定到位。

    • 不要试图完全分开这个电池。 将塑料卡留在原处,以防止其重新粘贴。

  54. 重复在中右单元电池上使用的过程,以完成中心的分离 - 左侧单元格上的粘合剂分离:
    • 重复在中右单元电池上使用的过程,以完成中心的分离 - 左侧单元格上的粘合剂分离:

    • 抬起并翻转两个外部电池单元,以清除中央左侧电池单元的剩余粘附边缘。

    • 将您的卡一直滑到电池下面,并将其留在电池上以防止电池重新粘附。

    • 取出先前步骤中插入此电池单元下的第一张卡。

  55. 在两个中央电池单元的下面各放一张塑料卡片,并抬起两张卡片,将MacBook Pro中的电池,塑料框架和电池板完全分开。 在两个中央电池单元的下面各放一张塑料卡片,并抬起两张卡片,将MacBook Pro中的电池,塑料框架和电池板完全分开。
    • 在两个中央电池单元的下面各放一张塑料卡片,并抬起两张卡片,将MacBook Pro中的电池,塑料框架和电池板完全分开。

    I have managed to slice through the trackpad cable on the final step of battery removal.

    Can the trackpad be replaced without having to replace the whole system case?

    Darrell Haslam - 回复

    Yes you can replace the track pad. there is an metal sheet that you’ll need to gently pry up, and a couple screws that hold the track pad. fixit does sell the part.

    allenhild - 回复

  56. 提起并取出电池。 在安装新电池之前,请从MacBook Pro的壳中取出所有旧的粘合剂。
    • 提起并取出电池。

    • 在安装新电池之前,请从MacBook Pro的壳中取出所有旧的粘合剂。

    • 运气好的话,你可以用手指慢慢地拉出胶带。

    • 否则,用一点粘合剂去除剂浸泡每条粘合剂2-3分钟,然后用塑料工具刮掉。这可能需要相当多的工作,所以耐心等待。

    • 将剩下的粘合剂去除剂擦干净,并让MacBook Pro风干几分钟。

    • iFixit套件中包含的更换电池预装了粘合剂。仔细测试电池的适合性和对齐,然后剥下覆盖粘合剂的薄膜,然后将每个电池牢固地按到位。如果您的原装电池上没有附加的胶片/内衬,请立即将其取出。

    • 在使用之前先校准电池:用尽,然后充电到100%,然后再次充电,直到MacBook Pro自动关机。重新充电并正常使用。

    • 如果在安装新电池后发现任何异常行为或问题,则可能需要重置MacBook Pro的SMC

    Opération effectuée ce jour.

    Ai suivi pas à pas toutes les étapes, c’est LONG, mais c’est BON !

    Merci pour le tutu TRES éclairant.

    H Max - 回复

    HELP !!!

    Ai un souci : malgré cette manipulation (ci-dessous) et le reset SMC, la batterie passe de 47% à 7% subitement : que faire ???

    Merci

    Calibrez votre nouvelle batterie avant de l'utiliser : Chargez-la à 100%, puis laissez-la charger encore au moins deux heures. Utilisez votre appareil normalement jusqu'à ce qu'il s'éteint à cause d'une batterie vide. N'oubliez pas de sauvegarder votre travail à temps. Attendez au moins 5 heures, puis rechargez la batterie à 100% sans interruption.

    H Max - 回复

    Bonjour,

    Je suis désolée d’apprendre que la batterie ne fonctionne pas comme prévu ! Si vous l’avez achetée chez iFixit, adressez-vous au service client qui se fera un plaisir de vous aider.

    Bonne journée,

    Claire (iFixit EU)

    Claire Rapp -

    One note from my mid-2014 15” MBP. There is a sheet of black plastic that must be removed from the old battery and installed in between the track pad and the new battery. If you don’t move this over the track pad won’t be able to click.

    chris160 - 回复

结论

按照本指南相反步骤来重新组装设备。

134等其他人完成本指南。

特别感谢这些译者︰

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Jeff Suovanen

于2013年08月06日注册

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60 Comments

This looks amazingly complicated!!! I've seen Youtube videos just removing the battery with solvent, and being careful. Why removing everything beforehand?

anonymous 3232 - 回复

There's nothing physically stopping you from going straight for the battery. However, it's difficult to control where the solvent goes with 100% accuracy, so if you're at all concerned about your solvent affecting other components, it's safer to remove them first. We've tested a lot of solvents and found that some are much safer to spread around, but not very effective at separating the battery. So yes, depending on the solvent used and the exact model of your MacBook Pro, the procedure could be very different!

Jeff Suovanen -

Hi Jeff, thanks for the explanation, very helpful. In the meantime, I have realised you don't ship out of the US... pity!

anonymous 3232 - 回复

Thanks so much for that link! And thanks to the guy who came up with it. I think I found a much faster way to go than thick nylon.

I couldn't find a nylon cord big enough. But I realized (being a guy from jersey) that it looked like something I'd seen happen in so many 80's mob films to someone who had to be taken care of. So i looked around for a thin metal wire and found it on my guitar! Wrap each end around a nail or something so you can hold it tight. And the metal wire really effectively cuts through the glue. The thin diameter makes it easier.

Didn't have to take out a single component.

Seth Piezas -

your link in combination with dental floss is great, fast and safe

hanneskvh -

Hey! My Macbook has started to swell in the center, near the spacebar! I'll try to replace the battery asap. I play the guitar so I'll use the guitar string as recommended. Which one did you use? This high E? And can I use the guide shown in this link with the guitar string? Thanks!

Carlos Castro Neves -

Or if you have an Apple Store nearby, they'll do the work for $129 which is worth the risk IMO. https://support.apple.com/mac/repair/ser...

Phatcat - 回复

It's actually $199 for Retina MacBook Pros, but yes you're right and that's certainly an option if you're close to an Apple Store—at least until the 5-year mark when Apple stops servicing them (which on the 2013 models will be as soon as next year).

Jeff Suovanen -

Also they take your computer for several days. You can do this repair in a few hours. (or shorter if you use the string method along with solvent, as mentioned above)

tod -

In Portugal it’s like 337€ which is equivalent to 378$ lol do you still think it isn’t worth the risk?

Lino -

I did a modified version of this to replace my battery: Steps 1-4, then Steps 34-. I didn't feel comfortable removing the logic board.

I controlled the flow of the solvent by tilting the computer by the hinge so any excess solvent would flow towards the front of the computer.

After being very sparing with the solvent and letting it sit for several minutes, I used the string method mentioned above. I think without the solvent, using the string would be very difficult, but with the solvent, the adhesive became gummy and easy to pull through.

tod - 回复

I just did this replacement but used solvent + string. Seems to work great. Solvent weakens the adhesive, string breaks it.

A small writeup here: https://todbot.com/blog/2017/07/08/repla...

tod - 回复

Thanks for the link to your method - just followed your procedure and it worked great! Entire process probably took about 45 minutes total and that was taking my time.

Mark Weishaar -

I used the solvent + string method and it worked great. For the string, I used dental floss. It is very thin and very strong and easily cuts through the weakened glue.

Jeffr -

Hey guys, i changed my battery following the guide and using the ifix it kit, i did a full SMC and PRAM reset but for some strange reason completely randomly the computer will crash make the screen completely black and after a while it’ll shutdown by itself, i just reset it and it works fine but i’d love some advice on the matter

aerorth - 回复

I just pulled the battery out. I didn't disassemble the entire computer. I also did not use the adhesive remover. Scrape scrape scrape.

christianm - 回复

Sucess! Thanks ifixit.com, Like some, I skipped steps 5 to 33…

Alexander Javier - 回复

I brought the MBP to the genius bar in town to run their diagnostic tool before I ordered the Ifixit battery replacement kit, if only to see what else was wrong besides an old battery. I was suspecting the DC onboard chip was damaged as well. We got two errors, one for the battery and one for a temperature sensor (which could have been battery related said the genius) DC onboard chip wasn’t damaged as I thought. Could it be that the new battery that was shipped was faulty, or did I destroy the socket or a solder when I pried off the battery plug with the spudger as was instructed but not demonstrated (did i use a vital component as a leverage point?)

What gives? Can I clean the socket with an electronic contact cleaner- the spray kind, or will that damage other components?

Help

Paul Ranada - 回复

THIS WHOLE GUIDE IS TOO LONG AND FOR COWARDS. You can easily make it faster. Just do it as in guide until you finish step 4. Then open your laptop and put it on the table this way that keyboard will face the table and screen will be hanging from the table (similar way how they put chairs on tables in restaurants to clean floor). Put some cloths or paper between keyboard and table, make roll from paper and put it also between table and keyboard near table’s edge. This will lift laptop a little bit and allow adhesive remover to flow down to the paper/cloths. Put some remover under the batteries (I bought nail’s remover with acetone), wait a while and remove batteries. Clean the rest of remover from the bottom of laptop and you are ready to put new batteries. It is easy and can be done in 20-40 minutes.

paczor - 回复

I agree with the other commenters here. EVERY STEP AFTER 4 IS COMPLETELY UNNECESSARY. I think you risk doing more damage to your computer trying to remove the logic board and components than just muscling the battery out. If your battery is swollen like mine was, the battery will mostly have separated from the adhesive already due to expansion. I was able to pull out my battery with no adhesive remover whatsoever. If you do run into some adhesive that you can’t just pry off, just use a scraper or floss to remove it.

email - 回复

Hi; I just installed my new battery and followed your instructions to the letter… not a bad experience, and works like a dream. And, while I was in there I swapped my 500 Gb SSD with a new OWC 1 Tb. It’s like having a new computer. Thanks!

Marc Jacobs - 回复

Succeeded! I left out steps 5 to 33 to avoid too many possible faults removing and reassembling all the parts. To avoid floating of the solvent in a wrong direction, I shifted the computer on the upper side, so that the solvent would float under the battery to the edge, not to the sensible parts.

Now the bottom part is flat again, and the trackpad klicks smooth… The whole computer is like new again and looks like new as well. :-) (and it’s 4,5 years old)

Hartmut - 回复

Unlike many others that commented, I did go through with the whole replacement as stated, and it worked without issue. I followed every step closely, and had no issues when I turned the machine back on. Now that I’ve done it, I don’t see any reason you couldn’t do the thread or dental floss method - seems safe to me.

I made a time lapse of the process. Thanks for the great (and very detailed) guide!

Jeff Ballweg - 回复

I love your video! Great work. That battery looked pretty swollen o.O

Jeff Suovanen -

Success! Did not use the solvent, but fishing line and a plastic knife. The guitar pic in the replacement kit was just a bit too short. ;) I appreciate the work everyone has done in writing up hints and tips. The guide’s instructions and images are tops! I approached this job with a bit of fear but saw how nearly everyone was successful. Now, my 2013 model MacBook Pro has long battery life again.

Larry_Rymal - 回复

Just a marvelous follow-up. The computer would power-off at 10% battery remaining. I did the usual resets, etc., but it still would power-off. I decided to go ahead and charge the battery to 100% and let it drain (power adapter unplugged). This time it drained all the way to 0% (wow!) and faded to dark. Nice and eloquently.

Secondly, Facebook, with the old dying battery, would not scroll smoothly as graphics/pictures were loading. I’m assuming the MacBook Pro was throttling back since the battery was on its death bed. Now, with the new battery, this computer is so amazingly fast! FB scrolling is whoooshhh fast on supplying the graphics.

I just hope that Apple will give OS upgrade support for just a couple more years, albeit being nearly a five year old machine. It is speedy, and has all the ports I need (other than having ThunderBolt 2 rather ThunderBolt 3).

Thank you iFixit!

Larry_Rymal - 回复

I just replaced my battery with the ifixit kit, but like some people I skipped all the steps regarding removing components.

I protected the screen with foil, tilted the laptop so excess acetone would go away from the logic board, and proceeded to remove the battery.

i used very small amounts of fluid, and worked them off with plastic cards. They came off pretty easily; I spent more time removing the excess black glue strips.

This is NOT difficult. Just go slow.

jacob - 回复

iFixit’s Kit doesn’t ship to NZ so my method of attack was the following:

* Custom blend of about 80% Acetone (Nail Polish Remover) + 20% water in a dish.

* The disposable eye drops you can buy, emptied one of the little plastic suckers / droppers and used that to pick-up the custom blend above and apply it.

* I tried some picture hanging wire, was OK. Then Dental Floss, was not great. Finally settled on cutting a metre of an old ethernet cable and using a twisted pair from that. Worked much better, decent sawing motion and as the plastic wears down you get better sawing from the wire inside. No battery damage at all…

* Plus some old credit cards

Took 2 batteries out of dead Macbook Pro’s and swapped them over with great success.

As above you don’t need to remove all the other components…

Matt

Matt Hall - 回复

Should have skipped to the comments first before I started; advising to skip certain steps. lol…but, alas I went through with it all and I’m glad I did. It allowed me to carefully clean the inside of the laptop. I even opened up the fans and got all the dust out, too. I will say I’m rather good with this kind of stuff so I wasn’t too worried as I progressed to basically teardown the laptop. Thanks to ifixit and the author for this. First timer on here and grateful for the community. Cheers!

James Castro - 回复

Another successful repair here. As with most other commenters, I skipped steps 5-33 and had zero issues by virtue of tilting the laptop so the solvent wouldn’t contact the other parts inside. It actually took longer to clean up the leftover old adhesive strips than to remove the old battery itself. As a bonus, my trackpad, which had started behaving erratically about 6-8 months ago, is working perfectly again, likely due to the badly swollen condition of the old cells, enough to visibly bow the keyboard upward. No issues following replacement, the recommended two full discharge/charge cycles and a couple of days’ usage. I am very grateful for the work that went into the replacement kit and this guide. Thanks!

Anderson Vitous - 回复

Just replaced the whole unibody, I had a broken trackpad as well as a 50% health battery. Found a good used one and used this tutorial and the tutorial on the display replacement. Had the whole computer taken down to components, couldn’t have done it with out the tutorial. Thanks!

Elijah Vivio - 回复

This is an easy repair with iFixit’s kit and especially if you do a little bit of research first. I did what a lot of people here have mentioned, using a combination of the adhesive remover and a string to sort of “tear” the glue. Here are the steps I took:

1) I put some foil in the closed laptop to protect the screen, then put the laptop on a tilted stand.

2) I then put the adhesive remover around each of the batteries, carefully avoiding components I didn’t remove.

3) Once the adhesive remover had set in a little, I used fishing line to pull under the cells and tear the weakened adhesive.

4) I Removed and replaced the battery once all the cells were separated from the computer.

Here’s a video of the process that I used to replace mine: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=rfHHIERH...

However I had calibrated the new battery and reset the PRAM and SMC and it would still shut off with 35% left, meaning that the new battery was defective, but iFixit quickly shipped a new one to me for free that works perfectly.

Andrew Dennistoun - 回复

Two notes on this excellent guide here:

1. Having completed the whole operation the second time around I’d straight go for the battery without removing the logic board.

2. The iFixit replacement battery didn’t completely fit in the center (I couldn’t screw it down without bending the battery connector). The connector part is a differently constructed than the original one, so beware if that’s the case for you as well.

Bruno Essmann - 回复

I replaced the battery successfully but after turning the unit back on, I can’t use my normal password to get in, the enter key and the delete key don’t work. What could I have screwed up?

Charles Shader - 回复

The keyboard ribbon cable is one of the trickiest to reconnect correctly. I’d start by pulling it back out and inspecting it carefully for damage. Make sure it’s clean and free of skin oils—you can clean the contacts carefully with a bit of >90% isopropyl alcohol and a lint-free swab or cloth. When it’s dry, reinsert it carefully and evenly, and make sure it’s fully seated. If that doesn’t help, it’s possible the cable is damaged. Or, if you got too much adhesive remover in the wrong place, there could be damage to the keyboard. Start with the simple things first and work your way down. Good luck!

Jeff Suovanen -

I finished this today, skipped the steps to remove the electronics, and am happy to report that the speaker enclosures withstood a few splashes of solvent and did not melt like they’d been hit with the acid from ALIEN. It’s worth noting that the two central batteries have 3 strips of adhesive each, all of equal size oriented front to back in the case, the two sets of batteries on the sides had adhesive in a more rectangular pattern with two small and two large strips each. I would consider adding that to the instructions because so much of the disassembly was guessing where to ‘carve’ with the plastic separators. Also, a good trick for this was adding additional solvent while the plastic separators were already partially inserted, allowing it to run down the tool directly into the remaining adhesive. Last thought is that this was such a delicate and time consuming procedure, I would have been glad to just pay the extra money for apple to do it if they wouldn’t have needed to take my laptop for 3-5 days.

John Stevens - 回复

I used the string method on mine. My batteries were so swollen that the screws ejected from the case as I removed them - ended up having to press down on the case so they wouldn’t strip the starting threads. Just waiting for it to discharge to ensure the battery is good. I was a bit concerned the string method could build up static electricity, but so far things are working fine…

simplymail - 回复

I could easily have skipped the full teardown, but I decided to do so for the extra room to manipulate the batteries. I didn’t use the adhesive remover, just shoved the cards under the batteries and worked them free. Isopropyl 91% to clean up the residue. Some makeup remover pads were useful as well to let sit on the remaining residue to help saturate them before scrubbing clean. Re-assembly took about 1 hour carefully. Removed a lot of dust along the way. :-) Now the machine is in tip-top shape. Thanks for the guide! Even though it’s a little ambitious just to get the speakers out of the way, you did outline the worst case scenario and give adequate direction along the way to prevent anyone from getting lost.

As said by others, you would probably be fine to skip the teardown steps and just go for a battery removal with the logic board in place.

hybrid - 回复

I have successfully remove last battery it was swollen, most of the strips already left the case due pressure build up by swelling, but my machine is keep restrating at 17% battery, i tried resetting smc and pram but same situation is same.

Muhammad Asif - 回复

Easy half hour fix when skipping the electronics removal, Adhesive was easy solved by the solvant liquid

but noticed something interesting, APPLE had forgotten to put in the 2 screws holding the battery electronics connector in place

but I guess the Adhesive will keep it in place as the old one did for a few years.

Old battery very swollen but after replacing finally clicking the trackpad started to work again.

Only thing disappointing thing was they I got a plastic screwdriver shaft, was looking forward to get that shiny metal thing on all the pictures.

sayyonara - 回复

I just finished all the steps — worked like a charm! While I had it all the way open, I replaced the keyboard and backlight as well (it had taken a bath in soda and after limping along for a few months a few keys finally gave out entirely…). Not exactly a trivial addition to the process (took about an additional hour and a half maybe?) but I really appreciate having had the instructions for taking out all the other parts.

John Murphy - 回复

Thank you for the tip! I used the e-string of my Western guitar and did cut the tape in less than 10 minutes without any liquid and without taking at the Macbooks compontents. My daugher held the MB case firmly so I could make long strokes to cut the tape. Perfect!

Jan van der Meij - 回复

Hi, i bought ifixit MacBook Pro replacement battery and i have done the installation successfully but now the battery is not charging at all. The computer tells me that the battery must be replaced. Also when i go to the system preference to check battery information it tells me that the battery has 0 amperes.

Please help me! Thank you!

mjma1982 - 回复

Just made it, using the “string”-method as shown in https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=fupkPz55....

Took about 50 minutes, most of the time for removing the adhesive residue.

Used a string that was thinner than the one in the youtube-video - and my winter leather gloves to not strangulate fingers ;-)

Works!

anonymousguest - 回复

Just finished the repair using the fishing line method with no acetone. No need to remove anything except the battery. New battery was a simple install and as a bonus my trackpad works again! The swollen old batteries were pushing against the bottom of the trackpad preventing me from fully clicking on the pad. Thank you iFixIt!

Michael Rojas - 回复

Hi everybody, I absolved every step succesfull. Now everything is working but the battery. Has anyone an idea what to do. When I pull magsafe out of my mac he is immedeatly off.

Karsten - 回复

Thank You very much for the link, easy steps.

Bastian Goonewardena - 回复

I ordered the battery and all tools to complete the installation, it arrived in 2 days. Because I am a DIY kind of guy, the only steps I followed were to take off the rear cover, unplug the battery, remove the two screws, remove the battery, and put it back together.

I used fishing line to drop behind each of the battery sections and sawed through the tape holding the battery down. After the first three sections I had to change the fishing line because it began to stick because of getting hot and residual glue. I used the adhesive remover to clean up the case after the batteries were out, replaced the two screws that hold the battery in place, plugged the battery in, turned it over and powered up just to be sure, and replaced the back cover.

No fuss, mo muss, no Apple having my computer for ‘about a week’ and with an investment of only 40 minutes I am a very happy camper. Don’t forget to calibrate your new battery so it will last as long as possible.

Thanks iFixit, I am very happy I found you!

Paul Malone - 回复

I just replaced the battery with the iFixit kit. I did not need any of the additional removal steps (5-33). Rather, I just unplugged the battery and used the plastic cards to get at the adhesive. I only used the solvent when cleaning the remaining adhesive after getting the battery pack out. Using this method, I was able to replace the battery without removing anything else, saving a ton of time.

One thing to note re the iFixit Kit — it comes with a battery calibration card that does not match the instructions that are online through the link in this instruction page. In particular, the card that comes with the kit instructs to drain the battery from the state it was received in and then fully charge, while the online instructions say to charge the battery fully first, then drain fully, then charge fully again. Kind of surprising that those are inconsistent.

Nicholas Transier - 回复

@nick_transier The printed cards are a little out of date in that regard. The instructions in the guide are correct. (The printed version has been updated, but some kits were already packed with the old cards. Sorry about that.)

Jeff Suovanen -

C’est fait ! Ai suivi pas à pas toutes les étapes.

C’est LONG, mais … c’est BON !

Merci pour le tuto TRES éclairant.

H Max - 回复

HELP !!!

Ai un souci : malgré cette manipulation (ci-dessous) et le reset SMC, la batterie toute neuve de Ifixit passe de 47% à 7% subitement : que faire ???

Merci

Calibrez votre nouvelle batterie avant de l'utiliser : Chargez-la à 100%, puis laissez-la charger encore au moins deux heures. Utilisez votre appareil normalement jusqu'à ce qu'il s'éteint à cause d'une batterie vide. N'oubliez pas de sauvegarder votre travail à temps. Attendez au moins 5 heures, puis rechargez la batterie à 100% sans interruption.

H Max - 回复

Hello ! I have a problem, the new battery has 47% and suddenly go to 7% !

I have made a reset SMC, no change.

PLEASE HELP !

Thanks

H Max - 回复

Thank you so much for this wonderful detailed guide. I just fixed mine but when I reached the stages of using the solvent, I found out that the solvent has almost no chance of getting into the other components unless you’re abnormally clumsy, but I understand & appreciate the extra carefulness.. So unless you like me have extra free time to spend and you like taking things apart for fun; I would confidently say go ahead and just remove the battery alone. Thanks again for the whole package and everything in it.. I love this company’s idea.. Wish you all the best all the way from Saudi Arabia.

Faisal - 回复

Start with Step 1- 4 and then start with Step 40! So my replace took 15-20min. Also i didn’t glued the new Batterie (absolut not needed) so a future replacement would take just 5min.

Cheers, Michael

M L - 回复

The glue is the only thing safely securing the battery with this design. If you only ever plan to leave the laptop sitting flat on a desk its entire life, then sure, no adhesive needed—but otherwise, for safety reasons, it should be firmly stuck down.

Jeff Suovanen -

I can’t believe how much better my trackpad works now that I replaced the battery. I thought I had maybe warped the unibody case as it took a pretty big drop in a bag a few months back. Turns out the battery had began to swell and was pushing on the trackpad and bottom case. The adhesive remover worked well in small applications when I couldn’t get through it with fishing line. The entire process took me about 45 minutes, including setup and cleanup. The guide is really well written and the steps are documented meticulously, but most of the steps really aren’t necessary unless you are a masochist or are really interested in fully tearing down your MBP. Anyway, the kit was great and all the comments on this guide made the job much easier.

benganzel - 回复

My mac doesn’t turn on anymore I followed all the steps. Has anyone an suggestion?

Harry Fesenmayr - 回复

I am unhappy with the new battery life. I get just over two hours. Is this right ?

Simon Anthony - 回复

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