替换MacBook Pro 13‘’2016年末期带功能键版本的电池

Before any repair is carried out that involves removing the bottom case, the machines auto-boot function has be disabled. This can be disabled via the terminal command “sudo nvram AutoBoot=%00” once the repair has been completed the auto-boot function can be re-enabled via the vermin command “sudo nvram AutoBoot=%03”.

I recommend that you have an organizer tray for all the small parts, and label it in advance with the numbered “step” associated with each removal of screws and other parts. It really helped me when I needed to put everything back in reverse order, after the new battery is glued in place.

To replace the bottom just line it up just like it came from the factory. Make sure it clears the display connectors. And press firmly down until the clips connect to the bottom again.

Difficult to explain clearly, but worked easily for me by gripping the adjacent bottom and top corners then pulling in opposite directions, rather than trying to grip the hinge corner which is too narrow to afford a strong grip.

I initially tried shifting the whole panel off the front after using the separating tool to make some space at the back where the hinges are. I only had luck when I pushed the panel back to it’s normal state and using the separating tool again to open the front, then getting my fingers underneath the slide it off the front was easy. I guess the lesson is to not use the separating tool to “push from the back“.

once the tape's back in place, it doesn't look tightly attached. not sure, did I do something wrong here or it should be so.

The tape will likely not adhere as well as when it came out of the factory. This isnt an issue! As long as the tape is in place when the lower cover is put back on the device you should be good to go.

The underside of the tape is not uniform. Therefore, pay attention to which direction it is placed by looking at the underside when you remove it. Possibly mark one edge so that you can replace in the same direction during reassembly.

the cable connector (where the twizzer tip is) should be cleaned with alcohol or acetone before insertion because the cover (where the tip is holding it back) will have glue deposit smeared on top of the connector circuit traces. Glue will prevent a good connection with the BMS.

The little tab that you pull back on, at least in my cable, was simple glued onto the rest of the cable. I tried to carefully remove the cable, and the tab came off. I did not have flat tweezers in the ifixit replacement kit and did not want to pinch the cable with sharp instruments. Therefore, be extremely careful when removing the tab as it is difficult to reattach the cable without it.

Same problem with the tape coming loose and the cable not coming out. Go further back along the cable and pull gently on the cable with your fingers and the connector will come out easily.

The new battery I received did not come with the battery board data cable, so I had to remove the existing one and transfer it. The lock at the smaller end is the same mechanism as the one at the end shown in steps 11 and 12, but smaller (and harder to see. It helps to gently straighten the left end of the cable before trying to insert it in the end of the replacement circuit board.

I can corroborate MikeG1’s comment. My battery came without the long data cable as well. I had to remove it from the fried battery. Plastic lock tab mechanism on the ZIF connector is smaller. My inspection microscope helped to transfer the cable to the new battery board. Thanks Mike!

Likewise - the new battery came without a data cable. The cable was successfully removed from the old battery assembly and installed on the new battery, but it was tricky and nerve-racking (the cable is delicate and the connectors are very small) without instruction provided! The instructions should be updated to highlight the missing cable possibility, and provide information/illustration on transferring the cable.

If your laptop is showing the x where the battery icon is, this cable is at fault. This cable is referred to as the BMU (Battery Management Unit) flex cable. If it’s damaged, replacing it should solve your issue.

When the battery management “BMS” circuit board is re-installed, loosely install the two 3.7 mm screws, put a spudger on the left side of the BMS board to wedge theBMS board to the right then tighten the two 3.7 mm screws. The reason for doing this is that the two power traces on the board may not make physical contact with the battery connector (connector at where the spudger is on step 15). One clue that you didn’t have physical contact is if you reinstalled everything but there is no power unless the AC supply is plugged in (with battery meter on the top at 0%). This was what happened to me. The reason is that when you bend the battery connector in step 15, it’s no longer in alignment with the traces on the BMS board and hence, you have to shift the BMS board to the right to compensate. Once I did this, voila 64% power.

This step needs a warning on it. I somehow angled my spudger too low and it pried the connecting port loose which eventually broke off the logic board. It ruined my computer. BEWARE.

If you don’t have the iOpener, use a dry heating pad (with rice inside) and heat for 2 minutes in the microwave.

there's nothing in this manual about how to secure the cable while reassembling. I used insulating tape.

The air drier worked well for me, just need to be patient and and maintain a slight pull force to know when it's ready.

I did not need to secure the cable, the glue on it was still effective, apparently.

I really think the repair kit should have helped prepare for this. I neither have a hair dryer nor an iOpener! Fortunately, one of the included “plastic cards”, carefully wedged under the cable, with gentle pulling on the cable, helped release the cable from the battery.

para separar el cable del pegamente se puede humedecer yna tarjeta fina plastica con alcohol isopropilico y con eso separar despacio el flex del lugar donde eta pegado

you can use isopropilic alcohol , humect slim card whit alcohol isopropilic for separate flex from grue

Hair dryer worked well while I gently pulled on the cable.

Well… I lost one :) Anyone know where I could get a spare round one?

A ce moment là, il faudrait déconnecter la nappe de données de la carte de la batterie et la mettre de côté

Wenn das Trackpad ausgebaut ist, kann man den alten Akku auch ohne Klebstoffentferner relativ gut auslösen.

Au moment de ma commande le kit complet avec le dissolvant ifixit n’était pas disponible, mais seulement la batterie sans accéssoires, j’ai utilisé quelques gouttes d’acétone à la place. la battéerie originale s’est décollée sans difficulté à l’aide d’une carte de credit

Can I use isopropyl or ethanol instead?

This was the hardest step for me. You just have to keep at it and add a little more adhesive remover if needed, it will eventually come up.

Agreed, hardest step. “Several drop” was not enough, I had to add more twice, so take your time.

Just like on the picture, the corner close to the track pad seem to be a weak point, strat pushing the corner of the plastic card there.

I used a thin plastic kitchen spatula which was easier to slide in under the battery, and cover a wider area than the plastic card.

I don't see how starting from the side is even possible, it's too steep and the card is not flexible enough.

I started from the top. To do so, I had to lift the battery control card (step 24) enough to be able to put the power connector (step 15) back below it. That way I could slide the card all the way.

Because of the way the tutorial describe it, I was conservative on the quantity of remover. That may be why this step was not easy.

I had a non-ifixit battery replacement fail due to battery wiring (flat coated copper) touching the sharp edge of the case aluminum. Eventually vibration caused the insulation to wear off and short the middle cell to the case. Failure after a couple weeks.

Tuto au top.

J’ai remplacé la batterie de mon MacBook Pro en suivant à la lettre ce Tuto.

Un grand merci.

Overall good guide. The battery removal was by far the most difficult and time consuming.

It's important to understand stand that the battery is separate from the mother board so you can get somewhat aggressive when removing the old battery without worrying about damaging it.