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用这条指南来安全地用iFixit更换电池工具从你那MacBook Pro上拆除满是胶的电池。你的iFixit工具中的除胶剂可以溶化固定电池的胶,让你轻而易举地拆除电池。

“iFixit除胶剂非常易燃。”请在通风良好的地区做这件工作。在此过程中不要吸烟或是靠近明火。

注意:用来溶解胶的溶剂会损伤某些塑料。遵照所有这些指导并在涂溶剂的时候多加小心。

  1. 在拆你的MacBook Pro之前,把电池的电放到25%以下。一个充满电的锂电池如果被意外穿刺,它会着火或是爆炸。
    • 在拆你的MacBook Pro之前,把电池的电放到25%以下。一个充满电的锂电池如果被意外穿刺,它会着火或是爆炸。

    • 在你进行下一步之前,先关了电源拔了插销。

    • 用P5五角改锥来拆掉固定底壳的这六颗螺丝:

    • 两颗6.2mm螺丝

    • 两颗5.3mm螺丝

    • 两颗3.4mm螺丝

    Before any repair is carried out that involves removing the bottom case, the machines auto-boot function has be disabled. This can be disabled via the terminal command “sudo nvram AutoBoot=%00” once the repair has been completed the auto-boot function can be re-enabled via the vermin command “sudo nvram AutoBoot=%03”.

    Aaron Dalziel - 回复

  2. 在MacBook Pro底壳的前部中心位置嘬一个带把手的吸盘。 抬起吸盘,在底壳和机身之间制造一道缝隙。
    • 在MacBook Pro底壳的前部中心位置嘬一个带把手的吸盘。

    • 抬起吸盘,在底壳和机身之间制造一道缝隙。

  3. 在底壳和机身的缝隙之间插进一个撬片。 把这个撬片滑向最近的角落,并继续滑到机身一半的位置。 这会使第一个固定底壳的隐藏卡扣解锁。你会感到并听到卡扣打开。
    • 在底壳和机身的缝隙之间插进一个撬片。

    • 把这个撬片滑向最近的角落,并继续滑到机身一半的位置。

    • 这会使第一个固定底壳的隐藏卡扣解锁。你会感到并听到卡扣打开。

  4. 在另一侧重复上一个步骤,把你的撬片从下滑到上来打开第二个卡扣。 在另一侧重复上一个步骤,把你的撬片从下滑到上来打开第二个卡扣。 在另一侧重复上一个步骤,把你的撬片从下滑到上来打开第二个卡扣。
    • 在另一侧重复上一个步骤,把你的撬片从下滑到上来打开第二个卡扣。

  5. 再把你的撬片插进底壳的前部边缘,靠近最中间的两个螺丝口其中之一的地方。 用力扭动撬片,来打开固定底壳的第三个卡扣。 在另一个最中间的螺丝口处重复上述步骤,打开第四个卡扣。
    • 再把你的撬片插进底壳的前部边缘,靠近最中间的两个螺丝口其中之一的地方。

    • 用力扭动撬片,来打开固定底壳的第三个卡扣。

    • 在另一个最中间的螺丝口处重复上述步骤,打开第四个卡扣。

  6. 用力将底壳向MacBook的前端方向(与合叶相反的方向)拉,以此来分离最后的固定底壳的卡扣。 先拉一侧,再拉另一侧,可能会有帮助。 先拉一侧,再拉另一侧,可能会有帮助。
    • 用力将底壳向MacBook的前端方向(与合叶相反的方向)拉,以此来分离最后的固定底壳的卡扣。

    • 先拉一侧,再拉另一侧,可能会有帮助。

    Difficult to explain clearly, but worked easily for me by gripping the adjacent bottom and top corners then pulling in opposite directions, rather than trying to grip the hinge corner which is too narrow to afford a strong grip.

    Andrew Gordon - 回复

  7. 摘除底壳。
    • 摘除底壳。

  8. 小心地剥开这一大片盖住电池接头的胶带,它在主板最靠近电池的边缘。 拿走这胶带。
    • 小心地剥开这一大片盖住电池接头的胶带,它在主板最靠近电池的边缘。

    • 拿走这胶带。

    once the tape's back in place, it doesn't look tightly attached. not sure, did I do something wrong here or it should be so.

    Anton Monakhov - 回复

    The tape will likely not adhere as well as when it came out of the factory. This isnt an issue! As long as the tape is in place when the lower cover is put back on the device you should be good to go.

    Tarun Thiruma - 回复

    The underside of the tape is not uniform. Therefore, pay attention to which direction it is placed by looking at the underside when you remove it. Possibly mark one edge so that you can replace in the same direction during reassembly.

    Rick Jaffe - 回复

  9. 轻轻地剥开这个盖住电池排线接口的小片胶带。 这段胶带和排线是一体的,不是完全分离的。只要把它剥开足够对电池接头进行操作的长度就好。
    • 轻轻地剥开这个盖住电池排线接口的小片胶带。

    • 这段胶带和排线是一体的,不是完全分离的。只要把它剥开足够对电池接头进行操作的长度就好。

  10. 用撬棒的尖头挑起这个固定排线的黑色小卡扣。 用撬棒的尖头挑起这个固定排线的黑色小卡扣。
    • 用撬棒的尖头挑起这个固定排线的黑色小卡扣。

  11. 把电池数据排线滑出它的插槽来断开连接。 滑的时候要在排线方向平行于主板滑动。
    • 把电池数据排线滑出它的插槽来断开连接。

    • 滑的时候要在排线方向平行于主板滑动。

    the cable connector (where the twizzer tip is) should be cleaned with alcohol or acetone before insertion because the cover (where the tip is holding it back) will have glue deposit smeared on top of the connector circuit traces. Glue will prevent a good connection with the BMS.

    tarex7 - 回复

    The little tab that you pull back on, at least in my cable, was simple glued onto the rest of the cable. I tried to carefully remove the cable, and the tab came off. I did not have flat tweezers in the ifixit replacement kit and did not want to pinch the cable with sharp instruments. Therefore, be extremely careful when removing the tab as it is difficult to reattach the cable without it.

    Rick Jaffe - 回复

  12. 把电池数据排线弯到后面去让它不要挡路。
    • 把电池数据排线弯到后面去让它不要挡路。

    The new battery I received did not come with the battery board data cable, so I had to remove the existing one and transfer it. The lock at the smaller end is the same mechanism as the one at the end shown in steps 11 and 12, but smaller (and harder to see. It helps to gently straighten the left end of the cable before trying to insert it in the end of the replacement circuit board.

    MikeG1 - 回复

    I can corroborate MikeG1’s comment. My battery came without the long data cable as well. I had to remove it from the fried battery. Plastic lock tab mechanism on the ZIF connector is smaller. My inspection microscope helped to transfer the cable to the new battery board. Thanks Mike!

    lamajr - 回复

    So you have to take the small black square off that connects the ribbon to the base? I did that so as to remove the whole ribbon and replace it with the one attached to the new battery. I tried taping it down (okay and pritt sticking) now my laptop is fudged. when I turned it on again There was an X through the battery, and now it won’t load/ switch on at all and sounds like it’s about to take off. Can anyone help please?!

    isiirwin - 回复

    Likewise - the new battery came without a data cable. The cable was successfully removed from the old battery assembly and installed on the new battery, but it was tricky and nerve-racking (the cable is delicate and the connectors are very small) without instruction provided! The instructions should be updated to highlight the missing cable possibility, and provide information/illustration on transferring the cable.

    Marc - 回复

    In step 13, notice the amount of the data cable that sticks out of the connector. When moving this cable to the new battery, it is difficult to tell how far to push the cable into the connector or when it is fully inserted because the cable is so bendable.

    Rick Jaffe - 回复

  13. 用一把T6内梅花头改锥拆掉这个固定电池接头的3.7mm“薄煎饼”螺丝。
    • 用一把T6内梅花头改锥拆掉这个固定电池接头的3.7mm“薄煎饼”螺丝。

    When the battery management “BMS” circuit board is re-installed, loosely install the two 3.7 mm screws, put a spudger on the left side of the BMS board to wedge theBMS board to the right then tighten the two 3.7 mm screws. The reason for doing this is that the two power traces on the board may not make physical contact with the battery connector (connector at where the spudger is on step 15). One clue that you didn’t have physical contact is if you reinstalled everything but there is no power unless the AC supply is plugged in (with battery meter on the top at 0%). This was what happened to me. The reason is that when you bend the battery connector in step 15, it’s no longer in alignment with the traces on the BMS board and hence, you have to shift the BMS board to the right to compensate. Once I did this, voila 64% power.

    tarex7 - 回复

  14. Essential 工具包

    我们最紧凑的套装中最有用的工具。

    现在开始购物

    Essential 工具包

    我们最紧凑的套装中最有用的工具。

    现在开始购物
  15. 用撬棒轻轻地抬起电池接头,断开电池。 将接头抬起足够高使得它从插槽中分离。如果在修理过程中它意外碰到插槽,你的MacBook Pro有可能会受损。
    • 用撬棒轻轻地抬起电池接头,断开电池。

    • 将接头抬起足够高使得它从插槽中分离。如果在修理过程中它意外碰到插槽,你的MacBook Pro有可能会受损。

    Hi , i t the screw , I lifted the connector up and it breaks this sort of black tape. Is it a tape or is it a conductive layer? My Mac won’t start up now. Can someone help? Can I buy it?

    Michele Orefice - 回复

  16. 用一把T5内梅花头改锥来拆掉这两个固定触摸板排线接头压片的2.1mm螺丝。
    • 用一把T5内梅花头改锥来拆掉这两个固定触摸板排线接头压片的2.1mm螺丝。

  17. 取下触摸板排线插头压片。
    • 取下触摸板排线插头压片。

  18. 用撬棒轻轻地向上直挑插头来断开触摸板排线。 用撬棒轻轻地向上直挑插头来断开触摸板排线。
    • 用撬棒轻轻地向上直挑插头来断开触摸板排线。

  19. 准备一个iOpener,把它放在触摸板排线上。
    • 准备一个iOpener,把它放在触摸板排线上。

    • 如果你没有iOpener,可以用一台吹风机来加热排线。排线应该是热的,但不能热到没法碰。

    • 加热排线大约1分钟,让把触摸板排线固定在电池上的胶软下来。

    If you don’t have the iOpener, use a dry heating pad (with rice inside) and heat for 2 minutes in the microwave.

    tarex7 - 回复

    there's nothing in this manual about how to secure the cable while reassembling. I used insulating tape.

    Anton Monakhov - 回复

  20. 小心地把触摸板排线从电池上剥下来,然后把它放到一边。 不要折弯或者撕破排线。 不要折弯或者撕破排线。
    • 小心地把触摸板排线从电池上剥下来,然后把它放到一边。

    • 不要折弯或者撕破排线。

  21. 用一把T5内梅花头改锥拆掉下列10颗固定触摸板组件的螺丝:
    • 用一把T5内梅花头改锥拆掉下列10颗固定触摸板组件的螺丝:

    • 2颗4.3mm螺丝

    • 8颗5.8mm螺丝

  22. 拆除触摸板组件。 你需要把显示器打开才能拆除触摸板。 小心别让触摸板排线穿过MacBook Pro的框架的时候划伤了彼此。
    • 拆除触摸板组件。

    • 你需要把显示器打开才能拆除触摸板。

    • 小心别让触摸板排线穿过MacBook Pro的框架的时候划伤了彼此。

    • 确保别丢了这六个还待在触摸板下面的垫圈(两个圆形的和四个矩形的)。

    Well… I lost one :) Anyone know where I could get a spare round one?

    matic.klemenc - 回复

  23. 用一把T5内梅花头改锥来拆掉两颗固定电池板的3.1mm螺丝。
    • 用一把T5内梅花头改锥来拆掉两颗固定电池板的3.1mm螺丝。

    • 这些螺丝待在电池板数据排线下面。你有可能需要轻轻地把排线扒到一边才能接触到螺丝。

    • 可能有个进水贴粘在最右边的螺丝上。如果是这样,在拆螺丝之前先拿个镊子把进水贴揭下来放到一旁。

  24. 电池板应该是永久地与电池连在一起。检查一下是否有足够的空隙把它们一起拿出来,不要划伤其他元件。
    • 电池板应该是永久地与电池连在一起。检查一下是否有足够的空隙把它们一起拿出来,不要划伤其他元件。

    • 把撬棒的平头插到电池板下最靠近主板的一头。

    • 抬起电池板大约45度。如果有必要,抬起电池插头来给电池板更多的空间。

    A ce moment là, il faudrait déconnecter la nappe de données de la carte de la batterie et la mettre de côté

    Giovanni Gervasio - 回复

    At this point I Jump to step 30 . I do not use the liquid adhesive remover method. I use a silicone rubber kitchen food scooper. The scoop end is a soft, silicone rubber material with a beveled edge. The handle is a hard plastic. This tool I’ve used in about 50 retina battery swaps. No floss, credit cards or metal spatulas for me.. The angle of the ends and the rubber pliability combined with the hard plastic handle is ideal. After a few repairs you will get better at it. Be careful when applying pressure or leveraging to get between battery and base. You don’t want to slip & “overshoot” the scoop end into the logic board. EASY DOES IT…Save yourself the mess of applying the liquid. I can remove a battery in 10 minutes. Here’s the link to this tool that I found in my GF’s kitchen:

    https://www.amazon.com/Tovolo-Silicone-S...

    lamajr - 回复

  25. 你的工具套里提供的液体除胶剂会影响MacBook Pro显示器上的抗反射涂层。 为保护你的显示器,应在显示器和键盘之间铺一张铝箔,在你工作的时候应该一直把它放在那儿。
    • 你的工具套里提供的液体除胶剂会影响MacBook Pro显示器上的抗反射涂层。

    • 为保护你的显示器,应在显示器和键盘之间铺一张铝箔,在你工作的时候应该一直把它放在那儿。

    • 此外,放一张吸收性好的毛巾在触摸板区域之下,用来吸收过量的除胶剂。

  26. 现在你的MacBook Pro已经完全准备好了。下面该准备你自己了。 IFixit除胶剂包含丙酮,它会刺激中性皮肤和眼睛。
    • 现在你的MacBook Pro已经完全准备好了。下面该准备你自己了。

    • IFixit除胶剂包含丙酮,它会刺激中性皮肤和眼睛。

    • 在涂除胶剂的时候戴一个护目镜。(护目镜包含在你的工具包里。)

    • 没戴护目镜就不要戴隐形眼镜。

    • 防水手套也包含在你的工具包里。如果你担心除胶剂可能刺激你的皮肤,马上戴好手套。

    Wenn das Trackpad ausgebaut ist, kann man den alten Akku auch ohne Klebstoffentferner relativ gut auslösen.

    Christian Düll - 回复

  27. 打开你的除胶剂瓶盖。 向你工具包里的注射器里灌少量(大约2毫升)的除胶剂。
    • 打开你的除胶剂瓶盖。

    • 向你工具包里的注射器里灌少量(大约2毫升)的除胶剂。

    • 在剩余的过程中,如果需要就重新在注射器里充好除胶剂。

    • 每次最好不要往注射器里充超过2毫升的除胶剂,这样可以避免一次性涂过多的除胶剂。

    Au moment de ma commande le kit complet avec le dissolvant ifixit n’était pas disponible, mais seulement la batterie sans accéssoires, j’ai utilisé quelques gouttes d’acétone à la place. la battéerie originale s’est décollée sans difficulté à l’aide d’une carte de credit

    Giovanni Gervasio - 回复

    Can I use isopropyl or ethanol instead?

    Johhnsy Jr. - 回复

  28. 向最靠近风扇的电池组的前部边缘下面涂少量(大约1-2毫升)的除胶剂。 向最靠近风扇的电池组的前部边缘下面涂少量(大约1-2毫升)的除胶剂。
    • 向最靠近风扇的电池组的前部边缘下面涂少量(大约1-2毫升)的除胶剂。

  29. 把你的MacBook Pro的前部抬起一个小角度,让你的除胶剂流到电池组的下面。
    • 把你的MacBook Pro的前部抬起一个小角度,让你的除胶剂流到电池组的下面。

    • 在你进行下一个步骤之前,先等个2、3分钟,以便让你的除胶剂生效。

  30. 2、3分钟过后,在你一开始涂除胶剂的那个电池组边缘插一张塑料卡片进去。 轻轻扭动卡片,可能会有助于在电池组和MacBook Pro机身之间打开一道缝隙。 轻轻扭动卡片,可能会有助于在电池组和MacBook Pro机身之间打开一道缝隙。
    • 2、3分钟过后,在你一开始涂除胶剂的那个电池组边缘插一张塑料卡片进去。

    • 轻轻扭动卡片,可能会有助于在电池组和MacBook Pro机身之间打开一道缝隙。

    This was the hardest step for me. You just have to keep at it and add a little more adhesive remover if needed, it will eventually come up.

    Avi Ramu - 回复

  31. 轻轻地让卡片深入到电池组之下,将固定用的胶扯开。 这个动作不应该太过用力——除胶剂已经做了绝大部分工作。如果你不能把卡片插到电池组以下,就按之前的介绍多涂一点除胶剂,再等个2、3分钟再重试一遍。
    • 轻轻地让卡片深入到电池组之下,将固定用的胶扯开。

    • 这个动作不应该太过用力——除胶剂已经做了绝大部分工作。如果你不能把卡片插到电池组以下,就按之前的介绍多涂一点除胶剂,再等个2、3分钟再重试一遍。

  32. 扭动卡片来抬起电池组,直到它完全脱离铝制机身。 目前先不要尝试将电池组完全拆掉——它还与其他的电池组连在一起。
    • 扭动卡片来抬起电池组,直到它完全脱离铝制机身。

    • 目前先不要尝试将电池组完全拆掉——它还与其他的电池组连在一起。

  33. 将塑料卡片暂时放在电池组的下面。
    • 将塑料卡片暂时放在电池组的下面。

    • 这是为了防止你在分离其他电池组的时候这块电池组又重新粘在机身上。

  34. 重复以上六步来分离另一面的外部电池组。 重复以上六步来分离另一面的外部电池组。 重复以上六步来分离另一面的外部电池组。
    • 重复以上六步来分离另一面的外部电池组。

  35. 要分离中部电池组,先抬起MacBook Pro的前部,这样除胶剂不会流向主板。 沿着电池组的后部边缘涂少量(约1毫升)除胶剂。
    • 要分离中部电池组,先抬起MacBook Pro的前部,这样除胶剂不会流向主板。

    • 沿着电池组的后部边缘涂少量(约1毫升)除胶剂。

  36. 在中部电池组和触摸板之间的铝制机身挖空部分可能会使得除胶剂无法完全流到电池之下。 为了弥补这一点,在中部电池组的每个边缘都涂少量(约1毫升)的除胶剂。
    • 在中部电池组和触摸板之间的铝制机身挖空部分可能会使得除胶剂无法完全流到电池之下。

    • 为了弥补这一点,在中部电池组的每个边缘都涂少量(约1毫升)的除胶剂。

    • 在进行下一个步骤之前先等2、3分钟。

  37. 在中部电池组的一个边缘插一张塑料卡片。 别让你的卡片碰到主板。
    • 在中部电池组的一个边缘插一张塑料卡片。

    • 别让你的卡片碰到主板。

    • 将你的卡片轻轻扭动也许会有助于在电池组和MacBook Pro机身之间打开一道缝隙。

  38. 用你的卡片抬起电池组直到它脱离铝制机身。
    • 用你的卡片抬起电池组直到它脱离铝制机身。

  39. 举起并拿走电池。 在你安装你的新电池之前,先从MacBook Pro机身上铲掉所有胶。
    • 举起并拿走电池。

    • 在你安装你的新电池之前,先从MacBook Pro机身上铲掉所有胶。

    • 如果你有些小幸运,你没准儿能用你的手指将那些胶慢慢撕掉。

    • 不然,你就得用除胶剂浸泡每一块胶2、3分钟,然后再用塑料工具将他们刮掉。这会占用你相当长的一段工服,耐心点儿。

    • 擦掉任何残留的除胶剂,再给你的MacBook Pro一点时间晾干它。

    • 你IFixit工具包里的备用电池上事先已经带有胶。在你揭掉胶上的封条之前先仔细地对照一下电池与机身位置是否合适,然后再把每个电池组严整地粘在它应在的位置上。如果你的新电池上有些多余的胶条在你原来的电池上未曾出现,马上移除它们。

    • 在你使用的电池之前先检测它:先给放一夜的电,再把它充到100%,然后再放电直到你的MacBook Pro自动关机。再充满电就可以正常使用。

    • 在你安装好你的新电池之后,如果你注意到任何不寻常的举动或是问题,你可能需要重置你MacBook Pro的SMC

    Hi Jeff,

    Thank you for the great instructions! With a piece of dental floss it goes even better. Also it’s good to explain to shift the back cover out after removing the bolts. At the moment to put in the new batteries it’s the best to tighten the batteryprint first and at last to fix the batteries. Put three pieces of plastic under the batteries to prevent fixing too early to the bottom.

    Frans.

    Frans Beentjes - 回复

结论

要重新组装你的设备,请按逆序操作。

36等其他人完成本指南。

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Jeff Suovanen

于2013年08月06日注册

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Does the replacement battery comes with the same strong adhesive as the original battery?

Surgie - 回复

I ordered my battery for the 2017 version of the Macbook Pro with function keys from ebay and it didn’t came with a adhesive strip. I am sure you can use your own adhesive strips or double sided tape, as long as you mind the gabs on the aluminum frame,

Serj Nko -

Thanks for the great guide! Can you copy the guide to the Macbook Pro 2017 thread, as it’s exactly the same procedure for the function key version? It might be obvious for some “Pros” but I realized it after some trial and error odyssey.

Serj Nko - 回复

Hi Jeff,

Thank you for this great work to beat Apple greediness. I followed the exact steps and everything went well, but my battery is not charging nor the status is shown on the bar! I tried restarting and resetting and even restoring and it did not work would that be something you can help me with?

Bashar Khiatah - 回复

If the old battery still works, try putting it back in, and see if that clears up the problem. If it does, the new battery is defective.

Jeff Suovanen -

i did this one today with just 1 bankcard in 30min time no adhesive loosener needed no head needed…. you don’t even have to remove the mousepad…

i might have to start making my own repair guide….

demeyermike - 回复

Glad yours was easy! The strength of the adhesive can vary a lot depending on age, heat cycles, how much was applied at the factory, etc. I’ve seen a few that were easy and quite a few that were absolute monsters to remove. Most fall somewhere in between. This guide should have you covered in all cases, but it probably doesn’t hurt to poke and pry a little before you start, in case you lucked out and got an easy one. Just be very careful not to puncture the battery. Thanks for your comment!

Jeff Suovanen -

I can confirm that this guide also works word for word for a 2017 MacBook Pro with function keys. All I would add is that Step 7 requires considerable force!

Jon Worth - 回复

I did not remove the trackpad or use adhesive remover (Macbook Pro late 2017). Just need to get underneath the battery cells and push through the factory adhesive/tape. The entire process took around 30 min doing it this way; I’m handy, though no pro.

renob - 回复

Thank you! This excellent guide gave me a lot of confidence in the replacement of the battery. All went precisely according to plan.

Giovanni Gervasio - 回复

Excellent instructions. I did it slowly as it’s my first time with a Macbook Pro. Took me 90 minutes. I added some comments in steps 13-15 because the battery wasn’t connected properly on the first time.

tarex7 - 回复

I just completed the swap… awesome guide and really easy.

The only Problem i had was the missing data cable from the battery board to the logic board which was not included with the new battery. Thanks to some comments from other users I used the cable from the old battery.

Everything Else worked as described.

Mirko Bjelic - 回复

Great guide, thank you. I am replacing my battery and have a question about Step 13. Would it be possible to show how to disconnect this end of the cable (the hook end). I am having a hard time getting it out.

Thank you in advance for any help/advice.

r8w8 - 回复

Vielen Dank für die gute Anleitung. Der Akkutausch hat ohne Probleme sehr einfach in ca. einer Stunde geklappt.

Christian Düll - 回复

Thank you Jeff for the detailed and accurate guide.

Mario W - 回复

Worked just perfectly, thank you iFIXIT for doing what you do. Truly appreciated. Perfect instructions- just perfect!!

tgsavel - 回复

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