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简介

使用這指南移除和更換你的iPad Mini 3 Wi-Fi電池

  1. 在操作前我们推荐你清空微波炉,在底部的任何讨厌的食物残渣最终都可能粘在iOpener上。 把iOpener放在微波炉中间 。
    • 在操作前我们推荐你清空微波炉,在底部的任何讨厌的食物残渣最终都可能粘在iOpener上。

    • 把iOpener放在微波炉中间 。

    • 对于旋转式微波炉:确保盘子可以自由旋转。如果你的iOpener卡住了,它可能会过热并燃烧

    which temperature must be used for heating? Thx

    fbarletta - 回复

    I found you need to be very patient when using the iOpener. It's worth taking your time, giving the heat time to work on the glue. When I finally got the battery out, there were some strips of glue left behind that I just cleaned off with some isopropanol before installing the new battery.

    By the way, I had to run the iOpener for longer in my microwave for it to get hot enough. When it was too hot to touch, I figured it was hot enough for the batteries.

    Fredrik -

    I didn't find this to be as hard as I had built it up in my mind to be; HOWEVER, saying that I need to say years ago I was the local Nokia service center in my town. But many years ago right after they got rid of analog times. Yeah. A classic installer/repairer mistake when starting something they haven't fixed or installed before is picking up the instructions, flipping through them; maybe even reading a section that is new-then tossing the instructions over the shoulder. "I got this." This usually comes right before something major gets broke. And I can tell you when you try to do it yourself and then mess it up horribly then take it to the repair shop. Well we called that "I can do it myself" syndrome and charged extra to put back together what they brought in in the box. Now knowing all this - I can't stress this enough because I am stupid, stupid, stupid. COVER YOUR SCREEN IN CLEAR BOXING TAPE AND READ ALL THE INSTRUCTION BELOW THROUGH TO THE END BEFORE EVEN ATTEMPTING THIS FIX. Take my advise.

    windizy - 回复

    I didn't have an iOpener, so I used a wheat type heat bag. If you do this though, make sure you put a layer of plastic between your Mac and the bag, or you'll get condensation in places you don't want it.

    Martin Gray - 回复

    I started out using the iOpener but switched to my wife's hairdryer. A heat gun or hair dryer proved to be much more convenient and is a time saviour. You can heat more and the glue becomes more fluid make the next steps with the opening picks much easier

    Jan Van Puymbroeck - 回复

    Use a hair dryer! Watch this vid: https://youtu.be/16GkvjVyOJA It is much easier to do if you heat it from the other side.

    Fletcher Carpenter - 回复

    I know this is obvious, but backup your iPad with iTunes before you start. I'd also turn off your passcode if you have one.

    Laurie Higgins - 回复

    Ther first time you heat up the iOpener for this repair when its room temperature I had to heat it up for more than 30 seconds. I remember I had to heat it up for around 45 seconds. However, after that when you need to reheat it again during the repair 30 seconds will be enough.

    Yousef Ghalib - 回复

    Not everybody has a microwave. You need to state how long and at what temperature in a conventional oven.

    Esmond Pitt - 回复

    Hi, the microware have multiple power 1 to 9, what must be used ?

    Regards,

    Cedric

    Cedric VINCENT - 回复

    My microwave just died, can i heat it with boiled water?

    Alex COLOMBANI - 回复

    Taping as shown is impractical when using hair dryer method—tape simply comes off in the heat and gets in way of getting out the shards on the sides. If the thing wasn’t shattered, then taping unnecessary.

    B. A. Computer Services - 回复

  2. 加热iOpener三十秒
    • 加热iOpener三十秒

    • 贯穿整个维修过程,如果iOpener 冷却了,在微波炉中每次重新加热额外的三十秒。

    • 注意在维修过程中不要过度加热iOpener,过热可能会导致iOpener爆炸。

    • 如果出现膨胀千万不要碰iOpener。

    • 如果iOpener中间部分依然烫的没法碰,请等待冷却后再加热,一个加热好的iOpener 应该可以保持热度十分钟

    May I know the temperate limit about heating iOpener? (maximum 150 degrees Celsius?) thx so much.

    yamayhuang - 回复

    I had to heat mine up for more than 30 seconds. After 30 seconds on high it was only warm. It had to keep trying different times and checking it until it got hot. I think the initial time that I put it in for was over a minute.

    whale13 - 回复

    DO NOT USE IN NON ROTATING MICROWAVE! It will pop a hole. I had it in for 45 seconds the first time. It wasn't very hot inside and I saw it started to leak on the paper towel I put under it. Just a fair bit of advice. I think I will just stick with the heat gun. Loud but useful.

    Alex Jackson - 回复

    I don't own a microwave.

    mdanihy - 回复

    Its again waterproof when you change iphone 7 battery?

    Jon - 回复

    I don't have a microwave???

    Joe Blow - 回复

    30 sec at which equivalent watts setting and what temperature does iOpener heats up to for 30 secs. Only just bought it so needs info before using it. Thanks

    Sam Stieg - 回复

    can i use just ordinary microwave???

    juneseok kwon - 回复

    If I don't have a microwave then I try to use hot air gun so how many munuts i want to heat ?

    Mohideen Rifay - 回复

    I heated mine up for 30 seconds, tested, then again for 30 seconds. It felt adequately hot. Leaving it on the left side, per the instruction, for a minute did not loosen the adhesive. I ended up pulling the suction cup hard enough to shadder the old screen. Moral of the story, I don't think it gets hot enough safely to have an affect.

    Travis Dixon - 回复

    There is a clear problem here with the heating part using the iopener things....no details are given. Whoever is testing them needs to make it clear - What temperature does it need to be? And for which phone models, because they differ in what's needed. It's only £10-15 for a laser guided temp sensor unit, and the designers/repairers should have one of those already for doing these kinds of repairs. Explaining half a repair, is worse than not explaining at all :-(

    assortedrubbish - 回复

    I used a hot water bottle, works well as it covers the whole screen and stays hot for longer.

    dave - 回复

    If I may suggest include your microwave wattage so people can get an idea on time for there own

    Patrick Storey - 回复

    I ended up using a hair dryer. That iOpener thing took forever.

    mark fitzgerald - 回复

    30 seconds sure isn’t cutting it… 45 didn’t get the screen of my iPad air 2 to budge either… even after resting on the ipad for 4 minutes.

    60 seconds in the microwave, the iOpener burst.

    I’ll get a new one and try once more with heating it 45 seconds and repeat that for 30 minutes like others have said here. If that doesn’t work it’ll have to be the heat gun.

    K

    Karl Marble - 回复

    I can’t recommend the microwave. If the the iOpener becomes too hot, it bursts. Better put the opener in cooking water. Dry it and use it. Instead of an iOpener you can use hot/cool packs as well.

    Bernhard Keim - 回复

    Trust the directions! I forgot and left it in the Microwave too long and after 1 minute I had Mt Vesuvius - the iOpener burst and spewed the goodies out. The problem is, the Digitizer can be damaged by a hot air gun, so I had to tough out and remove the glue the hard way. I made it … with lots of patience! Tough lesson.

    Larry Bennett - 回复

    I also used a hairdryer. I used it on the low setting and I cut a piece of carboard to protect the rest of the screen. The iFixit tool and method is vert tedious and very time consuming in comparison. With the hairdryer method you can literally have the display apart in a few minutes. Using your other hand nearby the area you are heating it should be very hot but not enough to burn your hand. You only have to heat metal part of case near glass edge. If you have a cellular model then you need to be very careful because the black antenna area is plastic. So less heat and work your way up in adding heat just enough to separate around the area but not so much you melt the plastic!

    Fixrights - 回复

  3. 把iOpener从微波炉中拿出来,捏着两边扁平边缘中的一个避免碰到中心热的部分。
    • 把iOpener从微波炉中拿出来,捏着两边扁平边缘中的一个避免碰到中心热的部分。

    • iOpener会非常烫,所以拿着它的时候千万要小心。必要的时候可以使用烤箱手套。

    Will a hair dryer work for heating the glass?

    Me berg - 回复

    Yes, as does a heat gun.

    anonymous 4602 - 回复

    I did this repair. I used a hair dryer, I think it works better: gets very hot fast.

    Cobus de Beer - 回复

  4. 如果你的屏幕已经损坏,那么请效益以防止其进一步损坏或者因触摸而导致身体受伤。 在iPad显示屏上重叠贴上透明胶带直到iPad的整块显示屏都被覆盖。 最好尽你的最大努力来完成指南。但是,一旦玻璃已经损坏,它就会随着您的使用而继续损坏,所以你可能需要使用金属撬具来讲玻璃取出。
    • 如果你的屏幕已经损坏,那么请效益以防止其进一步损坏或者因触摸而导致身体受伤。

    • 在iPad显示屏上重叠贴上透明胶带直到iPad的整块显示屏都被覆盖。

    • 最好尽你的最大努力来完成指南。但是,一旦玻璃已经损坏,它就会随着您的使用而继续损坏,所以你可能需要使用金属撬具来讲玻璃取出。

    • 请佩戴护目镜来保护您的眼睛并且小心以防损坏LCD屏幕。

  5. 抓住iOpener的标签,把它放在iPad的home 键左侧
    • 抓住iOpener的标签,把它放在iPad的home 键左侧

    • 放置五分钟来让它使玻璃下的粘合剂软化

    Can you explain how using the iOpener ? That's can be great !

    Matthieu Nasri - 回复

    The iOpener used is essentially a bag of gel, which you put in the microwave for 30 seconds. You lay this against the screen edges to transfer heat and loosen up the glue.

    You could also use a hot-air blower with a re-work station but that's up to you. Mine worked well up to 150°C

    Sam Attwood -

    what about heating a cloth bag filled with rice in the microwave? Would that work?

    SkipR - 回复

    That might work! Rice is less likely to get, and stay, hot enough. But it can't hurt to try! Just be sure you're being patient and letting it really warm up before you pry. People have had luck double bagging a washcloth dipped in very hot water, too.

    Sam Lionheart -

  6. 小心地将吸盘放在已经加热的一侧。 确保吸盘已经在屏幕上吸紧 一边用一只手握住iPad,一边将吸盘向上轻轻拉以此将前面板玻璃与后面板轻轻地分开。
    • 小心地将吸盘放在已经加热的一侧。

    • 确保吸盘已经在屏幕上吸紧

    • 一边用一只手握住iPad,一边将吸盘向上轻轻拉以此将前面板玻璃与后面板轻轻地分开。

    • 注意,只将玻璃抬起足够放入拆屏工具的空间(抬起过多将会是你置身于使玻璃破碎的险境中)。

    I'm having trouble getting the suction cup to stay connected to the screen to pull it. It just isn't creating a seal no matter how flat I make it. I thought maybe the crack was causing it, so I tried tape. I originally didn't put tape on it because it wasn't losing glass. The tape made it worse of creating a seal. Any advice?

    William - 回复

    After following instructions to cover cracked glass with packing tape, the suction cup won’t adhere at all. Not even a little bit. Any suggestions?

    Brian Tate - 回复

    I had that exact problem when I fixed an Iphone 8. What I did was that I put some ducktape where the suction cup would be placed. That worked for me. That’s of course is if you where doing to replace the glass anyway.

    Pontus Sennerstam -

    I had a screen on an iPad 4 that was so shattered that I literally had to spend 2.5 hours picking every single piece of glass out with tweezers after pulling the few larger pieces off with tape on them. Sometimes you need a lot of patience to be successful. The final cleaning out of the sticky tape along the sides is also very important once the glass is removed. Or the new screen will stick out an/or not go in neatly.

    Michael Burger - 回复

  7. 在使用吸盘抬起玻璃时,沿着iPad玻璃与机体之间的缝隙滑动拆屏工具。 不要将工具插入得比屏幕黑色边框更深。插入太深可能会导致LCD屏幕的损坏。 将吸盘从密封状态中释放并从显示组件上取下吸盘。
    • 在使用吸盘抬起玻璃时,沿着iPad玻璃与机体之间的缝隙滑动拆屏工具。

    • 不要将工具插入得比屏幕黑色边框更深。插入太深可能会导致LCD屏幕的损坏。

    • 将吸盘从密封状态中释放并从显示组件上取下吸盘。

    Could I use some guitar picks? If so, what gauge (thickness) of a picks should I get?

    SkipR - 回复

    I'm not sure what the correct balance of thickness to strength you'd need, maybe try a couple different types. The idea is to be thin and fit into the smallest gap, but if it gets bogged down in adhesive, it needs to be strong enough to push through. Be sure to use heat and be patient!

    Sam Lionheart -

  8. 重新加热并在此运用iOpener
    • 重新加热并在此运用iOpener

    • 注意不要在维修过程中过度加热iOpener。总是在重新加热之前等待至少十分钟。

    • 把它放在iPad左边框上几分钟以重新加热iPad的左边框。

    Well if you want to save some time and your screen is shattered just pry up one corner either left or right side at the top and tear the whole screen off going down towards the home button but do not completely remove the screen there is a wire connecting the digitizer to the board inside but tearing off the screen will skip you down to step 29 :-) i seen this in a video and saved me about an hour after the fact because my screen was cracking as i was inserting the blue picks so i ripped the whole screen off and used some adhesive remover to get off all the extra goo leftover

    Chris Grayden - 回复

  9. 沿着第一个撬片的开的口处插入另外一个翘片同时向下滑动到iPad的角落处,让撬片分离粘合剂。 在接下来的步骤中,如果您在玻璃面板下滑动时遇到恨大的阻力,请停下来,重新加热难以开启部分的面板,再重新滑动撬片来分离粘合剂。 暴力撬开面板会导致玻璃破裂。 在接下来的步骤中,如果您在玻璃面板下滑动时遇到恨大的阻力,请停下来,重新加热难以开启部分的面板,再重新滑动撬片来分离粘合剂。 暴力撬开面板会导致玻璃破裂。
    • 沿着第一个撬片的开的口处插入另外一个翘片同时向下滑动到iPad的角落处,让撬片分离粘合剂。

    • 在接下来的步骤中,如果您在玻璃面板下滑动时遇到恨大的阻力,请停下来,重新加热难以开启部分的面板,再重新滑动撬片来分离粘合剂。 暴力撬开面板会导致玻璃破裂。

    I found that all the following step were much easier for me using a heat gun while keeping the pull on the screen with the suction cup. Basically heat up a section, put the suction cup on, keep pulling the screen upwards on that side, while using the heat gun to continuously heat along the side. It came nicely off, one or two inches at a time. Once I had a whole side up, I just put some of the picks in to keep it up and continued along the side, heating, pulling, heating pulling. This obviously only works if the screen is not totally shattered. Mine only had two cracks.

    Michael Burger - 回复

  10. 继续沿着下方继续滑动来将粘合剂分离。 如果撬片卡住了,请沿着iPad的侧面滚动撬片,然后再继续进行分离工作。 如果撬片卡住了,请沿着iPad的侧面滚动撬片,然后再继续进行分离工作。
    • 继续沿着下方继续滑动来将粘合剂分离。

    • 如果撬片卡住了,请沿着iPad的侧面滚动撬片,然后再继续进行分离工作。

  11. 将第一个插入iPad的撬片向上滑动到iPad的左上角 撬片可能会出现图片上的情况,请不要慌张。 只需将撬片拉出一点点来继续进行维修工作。 但要避免这种情况,因为粘合剂可能会粘附在LCD显示屏上变得难以清理。 撬片可能会出现图片上的情况,请不要慌张。 只需将撬片拉出一点点来继续进行维修工作。 但要避免这种情况,因为粘合剂可能会粘附在LCD显示屏上变得难以清理。
    • 将第一个插入iPad的撬片向上滑动到iPad的左上角

    • 撬片可能会出现图片上的情况,请不要慌张。 只需将撬片拉出一点点来继续进行维修工作。 但要避免这种情况,因为粘合剂可能会粘附在LCD显示屏上变得难以清理。

  12. 重新加热iOpener 并将其放置在iPad顶部边缘位置,前置摄像头之上。
    • 重新加热iOpener 并将其放置在iPad顶部边缘位置,前置摄像头之上。

    • 小心,请勿在维修过程中过度加热iOpener。 在重新加热iOpener之前请至少等待10分钟。

    • 如果您有可以弯折的iOpener,您可以弯折其使其同时加热左上角边缘位置。

  13. 在左上角滑动撬片,来分离粘合剂。 在左上角滑动撬片,来分离粘合剂。 在左上角滑动撬片,来分离粘合剂。
    • 在左上角滑动撬片,来分离粘合剂。

  14. 滑动撬片直到快接近前置摄像头位置时停下 第三张图片展示了iPad前置摄像头的位置。 避免使用撬片直接滑过前置摄像头,这样做可能会污损到摄像头。 接下来的步骤将会详细说明如何避免损伤前置摄像头。
    • 滑动撬片直到快接近前置摄像头位置时停下

    • 第三张图片展示了iPad前置摄像头的位置。

    • 避免使用撬片直接滑过前置摄像头,这样做可能会污损到摄像头。 接下来的步骤将会详细说明如何避免损伤前置摄像头。

  15. 轻轻拉出些许撬片,并沿着前置摄像头顶部位置慢慢的滑动。 轻轻拉出些许撬片,并沿着前置摄像头顶部位置慢慢的滑动。 轻轻拉出些许撬片,并沿着前置摄像头顶部位置慢慢的滑动。
    • 轻轻拉出些许撬片,并沿着前置摄像头顶部位置慢慢的滑动。

  16. 将刚才那片撬片稍微滑过前置摄像头然后放在原位不动。 拿起另外一个撬片,插入摄像头的左侧,重新滑过刚才撬片滑过的路径,来完全分离残留的粘合剂。 将第二块撬片就放在转角那里,防止粘合剂冷却后重新粘和上。
    • 将刚才那片撬片稍微滑过前置摄像头然后放在原位不动。

    • 拿起另外一个撬片,插入摄像头的左侧,重新滑过刚才撬片滑过的路径,来完全分离残留的粘合剂。

    • 将第二块撬片就放在转角那里,防止粘合剂冷却后重新粘和上。

  17. 将第一块撬片稍微深入iPad之中,从摄像头处滑动到右上角。 将第一块撬片稍微深入iPad之中,从摄像头处滑动到右上角。 将第一块撬片稍微深入iPad之中,从摄像头处滑动到右上角。
    • 将第一块撬片稍微深入iPad之中,从摄像头处滑动到右上角。

  18. 将撬片放在原位,以防粘合剂再次粘连。
    • 将撬片放在原位,以防粘合剂再次粘连。

    • 重新加热iOpener将其放在有锁定和音量按钮一侧。

  19. 滑动右上角的撬片,来完全分离右上角的玻璃。 将这个撬片就放在这,防止粘合剂重新粘连。 重新拿一个撬片来进行下一步。
    • 滑动右上角的撬片,来完全分离右上角的玻璃。

    • 将这个撬片就放在这,防止粘合剂重新粘连。 重新拿一个撬片来进行下一步。

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  21. 在右侧插入一个新的撬片来分离右上角和中间的粘合剂。 在右侧插入一个新的撬片来分离右上角和中间的粘合剂。 在右侧插入一个新的撬片来分离右上角和中间的粘合剂。
    • 在右侧插入一个新的撬片来分离右上角和中间的粘合剂。

    This is not an LTE ipad mini 3, it is a wifi ipad mini 3

    lordofmordor - 回复

  22. 一直将撬片滑到iPad的右下角处,来分离粘合剂。 一直将撬片滑到iPad的右下角处,来分离粘合剂。 一直将撬片滑到iPad的右下角处,来分离粘合剂。
    • 一直将撬片滑到iPad的右下角处,来分离粘合剂。

  23. 就把撬片放在停下的位置,然后重新加热iOpener。
    • 就把撬片放在停下的位置,然后重新加热iOpener。

    • 切记,切勿过度加热iOpener,每次加热不能超过10分钟。

    • 将加热过的iOpener放置在Home键一端,放置几分钟来软化下面的粘合剂。

    For those who are replacing a severely shattered front panel, be aware that there are two smart cover magnets attached to the interior side of the front panel that you will need later. Keep an eye out for them (see steps 49 and 50 below for pictures of what these tiny magnets look like) so that you don't have to go digging through the debris later.

    Jeff G - 回复

  24. 滑动左下边的撬片来分边角处的离粘合剂。 滑动到左下角时停止滑动。 然后放置在此。 在下面板下面有很多东西需要规避,请仔细研究第三张图像:
    • 滑动左下边的撬片来分边角处的离粘合剂。

    • 滑动到左下角时停止滑动。 然后放置在此。

    • 在下面板下面有很多东西需要规避,请仔细研究第三张图像:

    • 天线

    • Home键

    • 排线

    • 接下来的步骤将会指导您如何避免伤害这些部件。 只加热和撬动指南所指示的部位。

  25. 将上一步的原撬片放置在原位,以防粘合剂重新粘合。 拿一片新的撬片,轻轻的从左天线处滑动到home键前。 只能从iPad外边缘向内滑动 请勿按照相反方向滑动 这样可能会损坏天线。
    • 将上一步的原撬片放置在原位,以防粘合剂重新粘合。

    • 拿一片新的撬片,轻轻的从左天线处滑动到home键前。

    • 只能从iPad外边缘向内滑动 请勿按照相反方向滑动 这样可能会损坏天线。

    • 如果您需要再次滑动来清理粘合剂,请取出撬片然后从外边缘重新插入再向内滑动。

    • 将撬片放置不动。

  26. 拿一片新的撬片来从刚才那片撬片右边Home键下方继续滑动。 在距离右侧边缘约一英寸的位置前停下,以避免切割到排线。 将撬片深入,再往回滑动至Home键处。
    • 拿一片新的撬片来从刚才那片撬片右边Home键下方继续滑动。

    • 在距离右侧边缘约一英寸的位置前停下,以避免切割到排线。

    • 将撬片深入,再往回滑动至Home键处。

    • 再次,请确保只有当撬片完全插入iPad时,才能向iPad的中心滑动; 否则可能会损坏玻璃面板下方的天线。

    Do NOT insert the pick much deeper to the right of the home button, you can easily damage the fingerprint ID chip.

    kimhoover - 回复

    There is no fingerprint id chip in an iPad mini 2 (retina)

    blakebest -

  27. 将重新加热过后的iOpener放置在iPad顶部。
    • 将重新加热过后的iOpener放置在iPad顶部。

  28. 小心操作这一步,花点时间保证粘合剂是热和软的,同时确保您的撬片已经分离开了该分离的粘合剂。 不要怕返工和重新加热。 在iPadHome键相对的顶部您应该在每个角落里插了撬片。 扭动撬片,轻轻地提起玻璃面板,分离最后残留的粘合剂。
    • 小心操作这一步,花点时间保证粘合剂是热和软的,同时确保您的撬片已经分离开了该分离的粘合剂。 不要怕返工和重新加热。

    • 在iPadHome键相对的顶部您应该在每个角落里插了撬片。 扭动撬片,轻轻地提起玻璃面板,分离最后残留的粘合剂。

    • 如果在打开过程中遇到很大的阻力,请立即停止扭动撬片。 将撬片放置原位,重新加热iOpener,将其放置在难以开启的位置,然后插入撬片来重新分离一遍粘合剂。

  29. 慢慢地轻轻地提起玻璃面板,以便沿着下边缘进一步分离粘合剂。 慢慢地轻轻地提起玻璃面板,以便沿着下边缘进一步分离粘合剂。
    • 慢慢地轻轻地提起玻璃面板,以便沿着下边缘进一步分离粘合剂。

  30. 一旦所有的粘合剂被分离了,玻璃面板就可以像翻书一样将其放置在您的工作台上。 一旦所有的粘合剂被分离了,玻璃面板就可以像翻书一样将其放置在您的工作台上。
    • 一旦所有的粘合剂被分离了,玻璃面板就可以像翻书一样将其放置在您的工作台上。

    This picture and several others that follow are not for the "LTE" model.

    Tim Osborn - 回复

    Some of the steps, including the comments, are replicated between guides.  Be aware! This can render them somewhat generic, and possibly non-optimal.  For instance, this step is replicated between at least the mini 2 LTE, mini 2 Wi-Fi, mini 3 LTE, & mini 3 Wi-Fi.

    ciradrak -

    Remember to remove the old black adhesive from the digitizer and iPad frame. Some can be pulled out and some needs a sharp blade to remove. This will give you room to apply your new adhesive strips when reassembling.

    Yousef Ghalib - 回复

  31. 前置摄像头的保护壳可能会粘在前面板上; 将保护壳从面板上取下,并放回相机上以保护相机模组。 从保护壳一角晃动其,让其从前面板上的粘合剂上分离下来。 将前置摄像机外壳放回后壳中的凹槽。
    • 前置摄像头的保护壳可能会粘在前面板上; 将保护壳从面板上取下,并放回相机上以保护相机模组。

    • 从保护壳一角晃动其,让其从前面板上的粘合剂上分离下来。

    • 将前置摄像机外壳放回后壳中的凹槽。

  32. 移除固定LCD面板的Phillips #00 螺丝 3颗3.3 mm 螺丝
    • 移除固定LCD面板的Phillips #00 螺丝

    • 3颗3.3 mm 螺丝

    • 4颗4.5 mm 螺丝

    • 如果有胶带覆盖在螺丝上,那就用镊子将其剥下。

    This is VERY IMPORTANT please be sure to put the screws EXACTLY how they were when you removed them otherwise your screen will not rotate when you put the new digitizer on. i closed my ipad thinking everything was ok but now the screen does not automatically rotate, but lucky i jailbroke my ipad first and have an activator gesture to rotate for me :-)

    Chris Grayden - 回复

    stripped the screws at the home button side of the ipad and the precision screw extractor set is too big to work. help?! paramedic064@gmail.com

    paramedic064 - 回复

    We have some great posts on Answers about getting stripped screws out, you can refer to What are your tips/tricks for removing or extracting stripped screws? for advice, or ask a new one and see if someone can come up with new ideas. We also have a stripped screw removal guide for you to check out. Good luck!

    Sam Lionheart -

    I found that Phillips #000 work better then the Phillips #00 for this entire product. I'll be recommending a change to the fix kit as well.

    William - 回复

    This is a tip:

    I have a terrible time cleaning the lcd because no matter how hard I try not to touch it, I always get smudges! So take my advice…remove the front film from the new digitizer and place it over the lcd. It is bigger so you can cut it down or just lift it to get to the screws. Now no fingerprints and also less chance for scratches. The front side is easy to clean once it’s installed so need to have that covered while working-the insides are what needs protecting.

    mamashannon4u - 回复

  33. 切勿现在尝试将LCD面板完全分离开来,它仍与iPad通过位于Home键附近的几条线缆相连。 只可以从前置摄像头处提起。 在LCD面板与LCD屏蔽版之间插入撬棒扁平的一端,轻轻地将其撬起。
    • 切勿现在尝试将LCD面板完全分离开来,它仍与iPad通过位于Home键附近的几条线缆相连。 只可以从前置摄像头处提起。

    • 在LCD面板与LCD屏蔽版之间插入撬棒扁平的一端,轻轻地将其撬起。

    Be very careful not to get the spudger under the shield plate, but between the LCD and the shield. Also, not that on the LTE models, the antennas are at this end and there is a bit of adhesive holding this end of the LCD down.

    Tim Osborn - 回复

    This bit of adhesive is located beneath the foam, and runs the entire length of the antennas. You must lift the foam and detach the tape before you're able to get the top to come out the chassis

    James - 回复

    This is not present in this tutorial and is very frustrating. I fix it must look into this

    James - 回复

    I have seen countless comments about the LCD breaking when trying to remove it from the LCD shield with adhesive. I have found a simple solution. Once the 4 screws have been removed take a piece of fishing line (longer than the iPad) and simply run it beneath the top of the LCD from one side to the other. Once it's in place, gently pull it down applying equal pressure from both sides. The fishing line will break the adhesive in the process, freeing the LCD. It has worked for me every time.

    bababooey - 回复

    Thanks for the fishing line suggestion. It certainly worked for me (used 6lb test line). With using the fishing line, one is a lot less likely to break the LCD compared to using a spudger.

    rgstout -

    awesome tip thanks

    Pa Du -

    The tutorial procedure should be edited once and for all to instruct to detach the adhesive strip from the top of the LCD prior to attempting to lift it. Failure to do so will invariably result in a broken LCD!!!

    The simplest way to do that is to first gently remove the foam strip running around the top of the LCD with a pair of tweezers. Only then will the shiny metallic adhesive tape be visible and accessible.

    lorenzocangiano - 回复

    I found that if you take two flat plastic spurgers and run one down each side together it works fairly well. Just take your time.

    Abbot - 回复

    The LCD is extremely fragile, DO NOT allow it to bend or you will break it. The adhesive near the speakers that connect to the LCD are a danger spot and if you pull wrong you could break the LCD. Be careful.

    Timothy McEvoy - 回复

    Yeah, I broke my LCD because the guide did not specify the glue on the top portion if you have an LTE model. I didn’t even try hard at all. I tried to lift it with the plastic spudger and saw that it did not move. Came to check the comments and when I looked back the top corner was already broken.

    Thanks iFixit! Awesome guide

    Jorge Tamez - 回复

  34. 液晶显示屏由温和的粘合剂固定,在将LCD面板从屏蔽板上翻转之前,请分离粘合剂。 在LCD和LCD蔽板之间插入撬棒,并将其滑到iPad的远端。 在LCD和LCD蔽板之间插入撬棒,并将其滑到iPad的远端。
    • 液晶显示屏由温和的粘合剂固定,在将LCD面板从屏蔽板上翻转之前,请分离粘合剂。

    • 在LCD和LCD蔽板之间插入撬棒,并将其滑到iPad的远端。

    Hi. I noticed that the tutorial is for an LTE iPad mini 2. However, these pictures do not show and LTE device. I'm having issues removing the LCD from the iPad due to the antenna. Any suggestions? (How to remove antenna?)

    Kevin Rodriguez - 回复

    This step needs extra detail on how the LCD adhesive should be loosened. I've now got stress marks on the LCD which show up when solid backgrounds are displayed on screen as the LCD flexed when trying to pry it out.

    Cool_Breeze - 回复

    I have seen countless comments about the LCD breaking when trying to remove it from the LCD shield with adhesive. I have found a simple solution. Once the 4 screws have been removed take a piece of fishing line (longer than the iPad) and simply run it beneath the top of the LCD from one side to the other. Once it's in place, gently pull it down applying equal pressure from both sides. The fishing line will break the adhesive in the process, freeing the LCD. It has worked for me every time.

    bababooey - 回复

    Great tip about the fishing wire because you will most certainly crack the LCD just yanking it out. Thank you and hit em with the hein

    Curtis Jordan Lenox - 回复

    I found that if you take two flat plastic spurgers and run one down each side together it works fairly well. Just take your time.

    Abbot - 回复

    The LCD is extremely fragile, DO NOT allow it to bend or you will break it. The adhesive near the speakers that connect to the LCD are a danger spot and if you pull wrong you could break the LCD. Be careful.

    Timothy McEvoy - 回复

  35. 两个宽胶带将LCD与扬声器相连。 一只手抓住LCD,另一只手抓住iPad下面的主体。
    • 两个宽胶带将LCD与扬声器相连。

    • 一只手抓住LCD,另一只手抓住iPad下面的主体。

    • 切勿尝试从iPad上完全取出LCD。

    • 轻轻地将LCD从扬声器上的胶带中拉出来,小心不要拉动排线。

    this was a pain to remove but the two pieces of tape should be separated using your spudger so that you can remove the lcd.

    Chris Grayden - 回复

    The screen was a tight fit in the recess. Whilst maneouvering it out, it flexed a little. Once reassembled, there are now feint stress marks visible when the screen displays a uniform background. With photos it's not noticeable, but on solid backgrounds, it is very noticeable. :-(

    Be careful when pulling the LCD out. Any hints for pulling it out safely should be added to this step.

    Cool_Breeze - 回复

    This step is bad advise. Once you get the LCD unglued top and sides, drop those plastic tools behind it to keep it up and apply heat to the front bottom of the LCD where the tape is applied on either side, use your spudger to push the tape away before you attempt to pull or flip the LCD over. It is very easy to break if you don't get the tape loose enough, so do yourself a favor and free the LCD from the tape before you attempt to maneuver it.

    brentschwartz - 回复

    I have seen countless comments about the LCD breaking when trying to remove it from the LCD shield with adhesive. I have found a simple solution. Once the 4 screws have been removed take a piece of fishing line (longer than the iPad) and simply run it beneath the top of the LCD from one side to the other. Once it's in place, gently pull it down applying equal pressure from both sides. The fishing line will break the adhesive in the process, freeing the LCD. It has worked for me every time.

    bababooey - 回复

    As others have said this step is rather problematic and following the tuturial instructions will most definitely lead to damaging the LCD. One problem is that the two adhesive tapes are not indicated in the photo: they are large and black and they are partly covered by long strips of thicker material that looks like padding. To remove them it helps to heat a little with the opener and then one can slowly peel them away by alternating the sharp and flat tips of the spudger.

    lorenzocangiano - 回复

    This must be the most difficult part. I took the advice of using fishing line and it worked a treat. However, due to lack of knowledge - I managed to slice straight through the LCD ribbons (all of them). I figure it was glue so kept going! Please take not that fishing line is only good for the sides, not the top where the LCD is attached! New LCD on order for round 2.

    Mike - 回复

    Well. I cracked the LCD during this process, so another $100. But, it’s the journey that counts, right? There is adhesive keeping the LCD attached to the aluminum shield. As I was prying the LCD up (I didn't know about the adhesive), I did hear feint cracking. Also it is too tight to try to flip the LCD over as shown. I did heat the bottom strips, but still tried to do it as shown, more cracking. It seems best to heat it and push the adhesive strips back and separate them prior to lifting. As well as the sides of the LCD for lifting!!

    William Dailey - 回复

    I separated the small tape in the middle (5mm), and the large upper tape (20mm), but left the lower tape at the connector in place. That way, the LCD was much easier to pull away gently and to tilt over.

    peterhebbinckuys - 回复

    I used a needle nosed tweezers to remove the tape on the bottom left and right. I then used the plastic spudger and went between the LCD and the metal piece. I gently went down the left side about half way and then the right and slowly and gently worked both sides until they separated.

    Abbot - 回复

    This step is unclear and should be revised, but Abbot’s comment has the right idea.  The tape holding the LCD in place should be highlighted in the image. This tape wraps around the lower edge of the panel and extends onto the front face, then a piece of cushion is attached on top.  Heat that tape to soften the adhesive then peal it up.  The connector for the LCD is on the back side of the panel in the lower right hand corner, it is not near the tape you are pealing away from the panel. Once the tape is separated very little force is required to shift the panel toward the top of the device as depicted. If you attempt to ‘pull the LCD away from the speakers’ with two hands as shown, it will almost certainly be broken.  Also, all the youtube explanations (at least the ones I could find) of how to remove the LCD make it look like you lift up on the top which would only cause the LCD to break.  So youtube failed this step as well.  It’s not easy, be careful.

    P.S. as these steps are replicated between more than one device –– I’m working on an iPad mini 3 LTE, the tape may be in different places on other devices?

    ciradrak -

    The LCD is extremely fragile, DO NOT allow it to bend or you will break it. The adhesive near the speakers that connect to the LCD are a danger spot and if you pull wrong you could break the LCD. Be careful.

    Timothy McEvoy - 回复

  36. 切勿尝试将LCD面板完全分离开来,它仍与iPad通过位于Home键附近的几条线缆相连。 只可以从前置摄像头处提起。 将LCD像翻书一样,抓住前置摄像头的那一端,将其从后壳中翻转过来。
    • 切勿尝试将LCD面板完全分离开来,它仍与iPad通过位于Home键附近的几条线缆相连。 只可以从前置摄像头处提起。

    • 将LCD像翻书一样,抓住前置摄像头的那一端,将其从后壳中翻转过来。

    • 小心,在你翻转的时候,时刻盯着LCD线缆

    • 将LCD放置在前面板上,确保能够触及到显示排线。

  37. 在液晶显示屏和粘贴标签之间滑动撬棒的尖端以分离LCD。 在两个粘合片之间轻轻推动; 小心不要损坏附近任何的电缆。 在两个粘合片之间轻轻推动; 小心不要损坏附近任何的电缆。
    • 在液晶显示屏和粘贴标签之间滑动撬棒的尖端以分离LCD。

    • 在两个粘合片之间轻轻推动; 小心不要损坏附近任何的电缆。

    This was harder than it looks. The adhesive tape covers a lot of area and has stuck to it tiny wires that go to the speaker. I had to use the tweezers to very carefully separate the wire from the adhesive, and to then pull the adhesive off the circuit board area in one spot before it would finally come away.

    Ray Everett - 回复

  38. 移除LCD屏蔽版上的七颗1.8mm Phillips #00 螺丝。
    • 移除LCD屏蔽版上的七颗1.8mm Phillips #00 螺丝。

    My LCD shield plate had many more screws than this. You have to remove them all.

    David Rowthorn - 回复

    At the assembly stage I found it is easier to use Philips PH000 screw driver bit than PH00. It helped me to get these minuscule screws in place, catch the head holes and drive them into their tight position. While using PH00 the driver would not catch the holes in their head and I was risking scratching the display since the screws refused to settle in the openings.

    mxmbulat - 回复

  39. 使用撬棒扁平的一段撬起LCD 屏蔽板。 移除LCD屏蔽版。 移除LCD屏蔽版。
    • 使用撬棒扁平的一段撬起LCD 屏蔽板。

    • 移除LCD屏蔽版。

    You can also just slide it back to expose the cable bracket.

    Will - 回复

  40. 移除固定显示排线支架上的螺丝。
    • 移除固定显示排线支架上的螺丝。

    • 1颗2.8mm 螺丝

    • 3颗 1.4mm 螺丝

  41. 将显示排线支架从iPad内移出。 将显示排线支架从iPad内移出。 将显示排线支架从iPad内移出。
    • 将显示排线支架从iPad内移出。

  42. 使用撬棒尖端来从逻辑板插座上移除Home键线缆。 将线缆弯折到一边。 将线缆弯折到一边。
    • 使用撬棒尖端来从逻辑板插座上移除Home键线缆。

    • 将线缆弯折到一边。

    maybe disconnect the battery before touch the home button cable

    ChiangFeng Li - 回复

    On a iPad mini 3 you MUST remove the home button cable connector, before you have access to the battery connector

    phigsmith - 回复

  43. 使用撬棒尖端来轻轻地将电池连接线缆从逻辑板上的插座中拔出。 千万小心,不要撬动插座本身,只可撬动插头、 如果撬动插座将会损坏整个连接部分。 千万小心,不要撬动插座本身,只可撬动插头、 如果撬动插座将会损坏整个连接部分。
    • 使用撬棒尖端来轻轻地将电池连接线缆从逻辑板上的插座中拔出。

    • 千万小心,不要撬动插座本身,只可撬动插头、 如果撬动插座将会损坏整个连接部分。

  44. 使用撬棒的尖端撬起LCD连接头。 切勿撬动的时候压到插座旁边大的IC模块,他很脆弱。 小心地像指南所指导的一样在侧面撬起。
    • 使用撬棒的尖端撬起LCD连接头。

    • 切勿撬动的时候压到插座旁边大的IC模块,他很脆弱。 小心地像指南所指导的一样在侧面撬起。

  45. 将LCD从iPad mini 3中移走。
    • 将LCD从iPad mini 3中移走。

  46. 使用撬棒的尖端来从插座上径直撬起数字化线缆。 使用撬棒的尖端来从插座上径直撬起数字化线缆。
    • 使用撬棒的尖端来从插座上径直撬起数字化线缆。

  47. 将撬棒扁平的一端滑入电池一侧的数字化板下,来将其与后壳相分离。 将撬棒扁平的一端滑入电池一侧的数字化板下,来将其与后壳相分离。
    • 将撬棒扁平的一端滑入电池一侧的数字化板下,来将其与后壳相分离。

  48. 将数字化板抬起,来让剩下的粘合剂分离开来。 将数字化板抬起,来让剩下的粘合剂分离开来。
    • 将数字化板抬起,来让剩下的粘合剂分离开来。

  49. 将iPad的前面板组件抬起移走。
    • 将iPad的前面板组件抬起移走。

  50. 電池用一些粘合劑固定在iPad外殼上,這些粘合劑需要加熱才能分開。 加熱一個iOpener,並將其放在iPad背面的中心。
    • 電池用一些粘合劑固定在iPad外殼上,這些粘合劑需要加熱才能分開。

    • 加熱一個iOpener,並將其放在iPad背面的中心。

    • 大約兩分鐘後,取出iOpener並將其放在iPad的右側,即離相機最遠的一側。

  51. 在以下過程中,您將在iPad的電池和後蓋之間滑動薄塑料卡,以分離將電池固定到位的膠粘劑。 小心保持卡片盡可能平坦,以避免彎曲電池,這可能會損壞電池,並釋放出危險的化學物質。 將iPad重新翻過來,並將塑料卡插入距離邏輯板和右揚聲器最近的電池下。
    • 在以下過程中,您將在iPad的電池和後蓋之間滑動薄塑料卡,以分離將電池固定到位的膠粘劑。 小心保持卡片盡可能平坦,以避免彎曲電池,這可能會損壞電池,並釋放出危險的化學物質。

    • 將iPad重新翻過來,並將塑料卡插入距離邏輯板和右揚聲器最近的電池下。

    • 如果遇到明顯的阻力,重新加熱iOpener並重複上一步,使粘合劑有更多的時間軟化。

    While I successfully replaced the battery I found that removing the original battery was tougher than removing the digitizer. I had to use more force to cut through the adhesive. Pay attention at this stage as you could easily damage the motherboard or surrounding cables.

    mxmbulat - 回复

  52. 取下塑料卡並將其插入距離殼體邊緣最近的電池。 取下塑料卡並將其插入距離殼體邊緣最近的電池。
    • 取下塑料卡並將其插入距離殼體邊緣最近的電池。

  53. 在靠近前置攝像頭的邏輯板一側的電池下方插入第二張塑料卡。 在靠近前置攝像頭的邏輯板一側的電池下方插入第二張塑料卡。
    • 在靠近前置攝像頭的邏輯板一側的電池下方插入第二張塑料卡。

  54. 將電池下面的第二張卡插入耳機插孔附近。 將電池下面的第二張卡插入耳機插孔附近。
    • 將電池下面的第二張卡插入耳機插孔附近。

  55. 抓住兩張卡,然後慢慢將機箱側電池從後殼拉出約兩英寸。 慢慢地剝離,盡量不要彎曲電池。
    • 抓住兩張卡,然後慢慢將機箱側電池從後殼拉出約兩英寸。

    • 慢慢地剝離,盡量不要彎曲電池。

  56. 將右側卡向另一個電池下方移動。 將右側卡向另一個電池下方移動。
    • 將右側卡向另一個電池下方移動。

  57. 將左側卡向上移動到另一個電池下方。 將左側卡向上移動到另一個電池下方。
    • 將左側卡向上移動到另一個電池下方。

  58. 握住兩張卡,用它們從後殼上取下電池。 從iPad中取出電池。 從iPad中取出電池。
    • 握住兩張卡,用它們從後殼上取下電池。

    • 從iPad中取出電池。

结论

要重新組裝您的設備,請按照相反的順序執行這些指示。

9等其他人完成本指南。

特别感谢这些译者︰

92%

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Sam Lionheart

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Wonderful instructions. Very comprehensive and clear. I would have found a bit more insight into installing the new adhesive helpful, as well as any guidance on how thoroughly the old adhesive needed to be removed. Took me about 2.5 hrs, working slowly and deliberately. Thanks Sam!

joe - 回复

Thank you so much I really needed help

Thanks, Sam

Sam Liam Matthews - 回复

Thank you! I had an iPad Mini 3 with a bulging battery that had lifted the glass and display away from the body of the iPad. I purchased the repair kit + battery replacement kit and was able to install the new battery using these instructions. I took extra time to make sure the glass and display were not damaged from the bulging battery, but it made it a little easier to get the glass off since most of the adhesive had already been lifted off. I used Goo Gone and one of the blue plastic spudgers to remove the old adhesive from the glass and from the case.

I would have liked to have seen instructions on installing the replacement adhesive but figured it out. I cut some of the long pieces into smaller pieces to make it more manageable, especially the section under the digitizer ribbon. Also, there wasn’t a mention of the two, small, metal pieces that stick to the adhesive in two of the corners to help support the glass over the display screws. I made sure to save those and replace them.

Jeff Hanlon - 回复

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