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简介

用这条指导来更换麦克风排线。

在这条指导中需要拆除散热铁和主板。在你重新安装散热铁之前,不要忘了一招我们的 涂散热膏指导来涂散热膏。

    • 拆下以下10个固定在上壳体上的螺丝

    • 两个 2.3毫米 的梅花五角螺丝

    • 八个 3.0毫米 的梅花五角螺丝

    • 在本次维修中,要对每个螺丝做好记录以便准确装回,避免对设备造成伤害。

    For all the screws you use the P5 pentalobe screwdriver?

    Carlos - 回复

    Pentalobe is only for the screws on the bottom cover. The Torx screw driver is for the remainder.

    Fredrik -

    Is the Pentalobe screwdriver mentioned in the tools list? I did not have one so I used a filed down flat blade screwdriver. Not a fantastic idea, but it works.

    Alex Birkett - 回复

    Yes, it's mentioned on the top of this page. P5 Pentalobe to be precise. I didn't have one either, so I bought one from iFixit and that works fantastic. An absolutely precise fit, which is important especially when you might open your MacBook a couple of times during the years you own it. Not using the correct tool might do more harm to the screws than you want! I once had this with a Lenovo Yoga 3 Pro, which has Torx screws (T4 I think) and I used cheap Chinese quality tools, with the result that both the tool and one of the screws are damaged.

    addvariety -

    I never, ever, ever considered using anything but the correct tool on the Pentalobe screws. Too easy to strip and void your warranty (if still in effect), as well as make it almost impossible to get inside later for another upgrade or repair. The Wiha P5 Pentalobe screwdriver fits like a glove and costs only about $11 (a fraction of your drive's price)at Amazon.com. Get it!

    marketing - 回复

    is P5 supposed to be for all 10 screws? it works on the 2x 2.3mm at the top, but not for the 8x others for me. what size screwdriver for the 3mm? thanks

    monsieurescargot - 回复

    Yes, the p5 works for all 10 pentalobe screw heads for bottom cover. The the different size mm reference only refers to the difference in length of the screws, but again both heads are p5.

    Antoine Thornton - 回复

    I followed this exactly and was able to replace my broken trackpad. I did not have to replace the ribbon OR the battery. However I would suggest getting the ribbon since it’s fairly cheap, as for the batteries I was able to do it with a card only. I didn’t use any heat or the liquid but it takes some time. You really have to work the card in there to release the glue. Also you must be very careful not to bend the batteries or damage them, if you do you must replace with new. This took me about 1.5hrs and my computer works like new. Apple cost for this job was around $450, I did it for $120. Big ups to ifixit for this awesome tutorial, tool set and parts!

    On a side note, only use quality tools, the cheap ones will break or strip the screws.

    Dustin Steward - 回复

    Note that the eight 3mm screws have a shoulder under the head, while the two 2.3mm screws are “full thread”, i.e., there is no shoulder under their heads. It’s important to put the two screws with no shoulder at the hinge of the cover.

    All ten screws require a P5 Pentalobe screwdriver, preferably with a magnetized tip to help hold and position the screw.

    All of the screws have blue “Loctite” thread locker compound on their threads. This is to help prevent the screws from working loose and falling out. Don’t attempt to clean the Loctite from the screws — leave it in place, and it will continue to help prevent the re-inserted screws from working loose.

    When replacing the bottom cover, it is a good technique to insert and BEGIN tightening all ten screws BEFORE fully tightening any one screw. After all the screws have been started, then go around and finish tightening all of them. By doing this, you make it easier to feel that each screw has been started properly, and is not “cross-threaded”.

    doubleclutch - 回复

    This is what I found on my MBP mid-2014 13” Retina. All 10 used the same screwdriver. I didn’t see the blue “loctite” but I also got my computer refurbished.

    Evan Shulman -

    A good technique for starting to thread the screws when replacing them is to position and align the screw, and with the driver, gently turn the screw in the REMOVAL direction until you feel and hear a slight click. This click happens when the leading thread of the screw drops off of the leading edge of the thread in the hole — this is the point at which the threads are properly positioned for engagement. You can now turn the driver and screw in the TIGHTENING direction. This technique will help prevent accidental “cross-threading” of the screw, which will damage the threads permanently.

    Note that this is a useful technique when installing ANY threaded fastener.

    doubleclutch - 回复

    Just finished replacing my battery (MacBook Pro 13” early 2015), glad I did, the old ones were noticeably swollen. I was surprised to find the battery at 57% upon completion and charging the new battery. No problems with replacement however, kit arrived without the Pentalobe driver. I got a nice complete kit from Amazon for 20 euro in 2 days. iFixit offered a coupon on any future purchase but right now, I have no plans on needing anything. Nice gesture but would have preferred the driver in the kit in the first place.

    Suggest having a small can of compressed air on hand to clean out the interior, after 4 years, mine was quite dirty. Ear buds and alcohol were the best I could do. And a magnetized driver is mandatory I think.

    D M - 回复

    REQUIRED PARTS (SCREWS) TO DO THIS JOB UNAVAILABLE HERE:

    If your keyboard is riveted to the chassis as mine is, Late 2013 MBP 13” retina, you need about 100 screws to reattach the new keyboard.

    ifixit does not have them. I did just now find them at Beetstech for $4.50 along with a back light $13 for the keyboard in case you want one. It looks like Beetstech is a big competitor of ifixit with an excellent reputation (like ifixit has) too. I just ordered these parts and will not happily be moving forward with my keyboard replacement.

    Timothy Hardman - 回复

    Fun Fact: I got three of the 2,3 mm Pentalopes … ;-)

    Paco Demant - 回复

    My PB had eight (8), 2.3 mm screws and two (2), 3.0 mm screws.

    ellamama - 回复

    Hi peeps,

    I have a wifi problem on this MBP 13” early 2015 and was pleasently surprised to find your guide to changing the airport card.

    However upon closer inspection it seems that on my MBP (purchased new or so I thought) the 3 antennae seem so have been soldered together at the point where they are clamped to the chassis. I have photos but cannot post here. Can anyone conform that where the 3 antennae wires are held to the chssis by the 2 scew metal support (just before disappearing into the screen hinge), the support is not meant to short the 3 wires together. This makes no sense for 3 seperate antennae wires.

    Any advice /close up photos is welcome here.

    dom

    colonel mustard - 回复

    Tip: Use post-it notes to keep track of screws

    1. Pack of post it notes

    2. Stick screws to the sticky part of the post it note

    3. Write on the post it note which step and what kind of screw it is

    ibash - 回复

    Hi, in order to drain the battery I am running:

    yes > /dev/null

    in 4 terminals, so the CPU maxes out at almost 99%.

    I hope this speeds up the battery draining process.

    And the backlight is at maximum brightness :-)

    You can see the cpu load in Activity Monitor.

    Its draining at 20% per 15 minutes.

    Any concerns about draining the battery in this way?

    Andre van der Ham - 回复

    Something I’ve been curious about, is it possible to upgrade a late 2013 Retina model MacBook Pro, with the improved 16gb ram and i7 processor logic board from the 2015 retina model? I’d be interested to try but not ready to shell out the $500+ to be the first lol

    Chat Dawgie - 回复

    The batteries of my MBP 13” (early 2015) were distended. due to outgassing. They are 3,5 years old but only had 340 cycles. I suppose that the batteries age faster when your computer is permanently plugged in.

    When unscrewing the bottom lid, I didn’t have to exert any force to remove the lid as it already popped loose due to the expanded batteries.

    Olivier Biot - 回复

    By the way, on my pentalobe bit it reads 1.2 instead of P5.

    Olivier Biot - 回复

    Without rehashing what others have said, I would highly recommend reading through the steps *and* the comments for each before tackling your replacement for tips. Highlights for me were: only disconnecting what actually needed to be disconnected, rotating the spudger to release the track pad cable, a hair dryer worked perfectly fine, and the pencil outline of the battery before you remove. You got this!

    N DesRochers - 回复

  1. 把你的手指放在上下壳体中间
    • 把你的手指放在上下壳体中间

    • 轻轻地把上下壳体拉开

    This takes a bit more effort than you might expect. Put your fingers where shown and lift about 3inches. With enough upwards pressure the plastic holders will “pop free” and the bottom will come off easily.

    hamiltont - 回复

    Agreed. A decent amount of force is required here.

    Evan Shulman - 回复

    To reattach bottom case I found it helpful to line fingers up with clips under case should snap easily

    Peter Stoll - 回复

    Easy snapped off for me

    Jackie Malling - 回复

    Popped off of the bottom case for me. My batteries were dangerously inflated

    Michael Gorman - 回复

  2. 上下壳体中间有两个塑料卡扣相连 在组装期间,温柔地从中间推下机壳,重新扣上这两个塑料卡扣。
    • 上下壳体中间有两个塑料卡扣相连

    • 在组装期间,温柔地从中间推下机壳,重新扣上这两个塑料卡扣。

    What is the black vinyl-y sticker on the inside of the case (some sort of shield?). I was forced to slightly puncture it in order to replace the feet on my laptop. Thanks in advance.

    Tommy Huang - 回复

    When I got the back off, I found this piece loose, any idea what it is? about 9mm long frosted plastic

    https://imgur.com/a/tYaxGdG

    Fred Anderson - 回复

    This wording I found quite confusing. They just mean when putting the lid back on that you just removed in the previous step, push here.

    Mmm ttt - 回复

    I took my pointer and thumb (which are luckily long enough) to feel where the studs are on the back panel, and then as I put the back panel back on, I pushed in the spot I had marked with my fingers to ensure I was applying pressure only on this part.

    Evan Shulman - 回复

    Can you make a youtube video showing the steps? I am not sure how to proceed with this step. I want to see it done.

    Thanks.

    Carol Garrett - 回复

  3. 如有必要,可拆卸粘在电池接触板上的塑料盖。
    • 如有必要,可拆卸粘在电池接触板上的塑料盖。

    Do you know where I can purchase this plastic cover? Mine is missing and no one will work on my computer without it.

    jodieabc - 回复

    My new battery kit included a replacement for this part, so, no need to save the old one.

    Ralph Begleiter - 回复

    The aux in my mac works 1 out of 10 times , Is this relevant to me in order to solve the proplem ? I cant see aux input on the io board ?

    Wajde Fadool - 回复

    A plastic foam cover also covers plug and socket and the whole battery. It is easy to remove it from the right side to the trackpad wire that the battery plug is free like shown in the picture. I kept it to use it again later.

    Daniel Brehm - 回复

  4. 用撬棒的平端,将电池连接器从主板插座上直着往上撬起。 确保您只抬起了连接器本身,而不是插座,否则您可能会对主板造成永久性的损坏。
    • 用撬棒的平端,将电池连接器从主板插座上直着往上撬起。

    • 确保您只抬起了连接器本身,而不是插座,否则您可能会对主板造成永久性的损坏。

    I have a friends MacBook Pro that has some water damage that caused the MacBook not to be able to use battery power, but still work when plugged into A/C. Upon further inspection I can see visible corrosion on a few of the 9 cables going from the battery connector to that small circuit board. Is it possible to just replace that circuit board?

    jramsey21 - 回复

    I have the some problem. I was thinking to replace the whole battery but I am not it will solve the problem. Any suggestions?

    salvatorebarbera -

    Sometimes it can be enough to just clean the contacts without having to replace the entire board. Dosent work for complicated IC's like plcc type, where corrosion is underneath the chip. Here you will have to reheat and reapply the IC.

    andrehedegaard -

    Hi,have you find the solution for your battery? I also have same problem, run with plugs but it battery not supporting… as soon the plug of it goes off

    Jewel Rahman -

    Have either of you replaced the battery and/or circuit board to fix the MacBooks with the water damage ? I have the same problem with the MacBook working fine when connected to power but dying immediately when the power cord is removed.

    Steve - 回复

    Hi, Steve. I had the same problem: Macbook Pro 15 retina with coffee damage. And it worked fine when connected to power. I made it working after replacing the whole battery. It seems that circuit connected to the battery becomes disabled to prevent short circuit.

    Vadim Gribanov -

    When placing the battery connector back into the socket on the logic board, check that every part of connector is pressed down. You should hear a soft click when it's back in place.

    Ethan Tarquin - 回复

    Thanks for the comment. My MBP isn’t powering on after I walked through these steps, and I assume it is because the battery connector isn’t fully connected. (I can’t check yet since I borrowed the pentalobe screwdriver)

    Caleb Steinborn -

    +1

    I thought I made sure it was connected but when running the computer it only detected the battery but couldn’t power it. I had to run with power adapter. Also it didn’t charge. I guess some pins were connected but not all. To verify that all were connected I removed the plastic cover, placed it carefully completely flat, and then reattached the plastic cover. After that it worked!

    Jonas Ehrs -

    If I only want to replace the trackpad cable, then which steps should I skip? This step seems unnecessary

    Parth Gudhka - 回复

    This step is not unnecessary because you need to remove the battery before you can replace the trackpad

    Jeffrey Liu -

    Removing the battery connector took a bit of finagling. It wasn’t as easy as one would think. Be very careful when doing this as they warn to not damage it. Otherwise great instructions!!!!

    Peppon - 回复

    I replaced both my L and R speakers on my MBP mid-2014 13” withOUT doing this step.

    Evan Shulman - 回复

    I did the same thing, probably unnecessary to disconnect the battery. I’m not a technician however.

    Leo Toupin -

    I have verified I have this battery, and I have a mid-2014 macbook retina. And I swear i do not see this battery connector. I didn’t take the cover off, per other comments that said it was an unnecessary risk. What the heck? will I not see the battery cable without taking of that cover?

    martha - 回复

    How can i post a photo of what I am seeing …I don’t see the battery connector! not like in photo above. maybe I have to remove that plastic cover although others recommended not doing that (see above).

    martha - 回复

    ooops nevermind..I see it now! tks . But..there is SO much gunk/dust under there (old, hand me down, used by my teen daughter while eating in bed no doubt!) . Should I attempt to clean? Beyond just blowing on it? Is compressed air safe? Or should I just leave it be? Assuming I don’t break it while replacing this battery I’d like not to break it otherwise! tks

    martha - 回复

    Lift from the long, flat side, not the shorter side. In this picture, you should lift from the NORTH part of the connector, not the WEST side like they are doing. This is because you can spread the pressure from lifting the connector across more area, as compared to the side. I accidentally broke off part of my battery connector lifting it up the way shown, but was able to do it the way I described without problem. Make sure to lift from the wide part so you don’t have my same trouble!

    Jaden Salama - 回复

  5. 在维修过程中,将电池连接器弯曲,以防止意外接触其插座。
    • 在维修过程中,将电池连接器弯曲,以防止意外接触其插座。

    If you miss or let this step for later like I did, the power left in the battery even though the computer is completely shut down, will screw up the I/O board cable like I did. I noticed this after I put all the pieces back, turn the computer on and surprise, no wifi hardware is detected. -.-

    sebasgaes - 回复

    Not sure I understand: did leaving the battery plugged in permanently broke the I/O board (or anything else)?

    Adrien -

    I put a small piece of blue painters tape on the battery connector contacts to prevent it from accidentally making a connection and shorting. This helped keep things a bit more protected.

    LaymanLab - 回复

    That’s a great idea!

    David Lilliebridge - 回复

    I used a small piece of paper to prevent the connector from connecting, no need to wrestle with even low-stick adhesive.

    dbrick - 回复

    I replaced both my L and R speakers on my MBP mid-2014 13” withOUT doing this step.

    Evan Shulman - 回复

    I agree that inserting a small paper above between the socket and the connector was useful. I used post-it-note, but kept the adhesive away from the socket.

    Ralph Begleiter - 回复

  6. 小心地从散热铁边缘取下风扇缓冲橡胶垫。 风扇缓冲垫跨过散热铁,并且有一个凸起部分卡在风扇管道里。在重新组装的时候,确保将其插进风扇管道的槽里。 风扇缓冲垫跨过散热铁,并且有一个凸起部分卡在风扇管道里。在重新组装的时候,确保将其插进风扇管道的槽里。
    • 小心地从散热铁边缘取下风扇缓冲橡胶垫。

    • 风扇缓冲垫跨过散热铁,并且有一个凸起部分卡在风扇管道里。在重新组装的时候,确保将其插进风扇管道的槽里。

    have lost the rubber fann bumper, what part do you have to buy to get this rubber? thank you

    Walid Shraim - 回复

    I changed out the noisy fan around 4-5 months ago. And lately it was back and I was super irritated about the poor quality of the replacement fan. Opening up the case and blowing on the ventilator some compressed air there was no noise whatsoever. I have this feeling that my “noisi fan” was actually the loose end of this rubber cover/bumper which could vibrate in the air flow channel. So verify that you insert rubber cover clips back to its slots on under the edge of the sink.

    Albert Stein - 回复

    Use a flashlight and magnifying glass to see how the bottom of the bumper that wraps around the heatsink sits into the fan duct before you remove it. If it is not seated properly it can make noise. You’re welcome.

    Ron LaPedis - 回复

  7. 用撬棒的平头挑开散热铁螺丝上的4块泡沫粘合剂。 用撬棒的平头挑开散热铁螺丝上的4块泡沫粘合剂。
    • 用撬棒的平头挑开散热铁螺丝上的4块泡沫粘合剂。

    Ok, might be a dumb question, but where can I get the foam stickers, and are they absolutely necessary after reassembling the heat sink?

    akdarstudios - 回复

    I re-used the ones that I pulled off, and my guess is that they aren’t really necessary since they seem to just fit between the Torx screws and the bottom cover. I really doubt they are part of the heat removal system but are there to prevent vibration.

    Ron LaPedis - 回复

  8. 拆掉下列将散热铁固定在主板上的螺丝:
    • 拆掉下列将散热铁固定在主板上的螺丝:

    • 1颗2.7mm T5 螺丝(银色)

    • 4颗(原文没写)mm T5 螺丝(黑色)

    Please be very very careful when reassembling. The four black screws seem to be poor quality and the top snapped off two of them when trying to tighten them. Does anyone know the size of these or compatibility from other models as finding a replacement for them is proving to be almost impossible without shipping them in for a ridiculous price…

    Sophia Grace - 回复

    The single screw on the left hand side on the image above, what type of screw is it? The one on my Macbook is a phillips head one. And for some reason, I couldn’t put it back. Any advise?

    Mahmood Chowdhury - 回复

    These should all be T5 Torx screws. There could be variations in the construction of the laptop compared to this guide, but I’d check out our ID Your MacBook tool to be sure you’re following the correct guide! If you are following the correct guide, be sure all the elements under the screw are properly seated, if they’re not well aligned the screw may not get a good anchor. Best of luck!

    Sam Goldheart -

    I can confirm that on my 2015 13” Macbook Pro, the single screw on the left hand side is a #000 phillips screw.

    Stephen Martin - 回复

    Mine is also a philips head

    Justin Parry - 回复

    They are Torx T5 on my MacBook Pro (Retina, 13-inch, Early 2015)

    Ron LaPedis - 回复

    I’m doing 2 early 2015 13” macbook pro’s right now simultaneously and both have same size torx for all 5 screws. Upgrading logic board in one and putting its old logic board in dead mac.

    BTW, I’m a double EE, been doing this a long time and wanted to mention that i use only high quality German made tools for my torx and other drivers. I have found repeatedly, that the cheap tools that are given away in kits, wear out fast, sometimes after one use and lead to issues with fasteners. My drivers are made by WIHA. They are expensive but well worth it if you plan on doing this more than once or even once!

    Ross Elkins - 回复

    yes, Phillips head screw on 13-inch early 2015 retina for my unit 2.7 ghz, 8gb ram

    robert - 回复

    For those of you that do have the Phillips head for the single screw on the left-hand side, do you have a driver suggestion that worked well for you, without stripping the head? I have tried the 000 bit and one of the 000 drivers from ifixit but those are beginning to strip the head. I need a driver that has deep drive but I’m unsure as to which brand I should buy. I’ll spend the money for the right driver. Thanks!

    Ray Grogan - 回复

    Dumb question - if my replacement logic board comes with a new heat sink attached, can I ignore these steps (other than removing the red-circled screw)? Hoping so since this part seems like a PITA.

    Steve Kroodsma - 回复

    I too have a Phillips head for that one screw (early 2015 13” retina MBP, technically an Apple refurb). The bit I used is labelled J000 from my precision toolkit. Be careful since it so small, but i had no issues with tearing up the screw head.

    Edward Wilcox - 回复

  9. 从笔记本上拆掉散热铁。 当你重新组装你的电脑的时候,依照我们的涂散热膏指导来重新涂散热膏。
    • 从笔记本上拆掉散热铁。

    • 当你重新组装你的电脑的时候,依照我们的涂散热膏指导来重新涂散热膏。

  10. 用撬棒的尖头推iSight摄像头排线接口的两端,使其退出主板上的插槽。 用撬棒的尖头推iSight摄像头排线接口的两端,使其退出主板上的插槽。
    • 用撬棒的尖头推iSight摄像头排线接口的两端,使其退出主板上的插槽。

    I found this to be the most difficult step. There is a need to get positioned so that you have the leverage to push hard enough at exactly the point shown in the photo without risking slipping and perhaps damaging the CPU nearby

    Tony M - 回复

    Very helpful tip from Tony.

    Thomas Sturgill - 回复

    I used two tools simultaneously. A spudger and a pic like spudger to walk it out.

    lucas - 回复

    Man muss den Stecker aus der Steckverbindung herausschieben, und nicht darauf drücken . In der englischsprachigen Anleitung steht auch push und nicht etwa press…

    Holger - 回复

    There are 2 black tabs either side - force them towards the back of the back of computer. It seemed to pop out super easily just doing it gently.

    Josh - 回复

    This step is very difficult. With care it could be omitted. After detach the cable from the glue on the back cover of fan, there is enough clearance to take the fan assembly out with a little pivoting, just be careful and don’t put too much stress on the table where it make a 90 downward turn to the connector. Reinstalling is just reverse and doable as well.

    Xiaokun Xu - 回复

    After readying all, trying Josh’s tip with no joy, I found that two nice sized fingernails made this easy x 2! Just push on each little indent simultaneously.

    Ross Elkins - 回复

  11. 将iSight摄像头排线从风扇外壳上揭开,并弯到一旁。 将iSight摄像头排线从风扇外壳上揭开,并弯到一旁。
    • 将iSight摄像头排线从风扇外壳上揭开,并弯到一旁。

  12. 用撬棒的尖头翻开风扇ZIF插头的卡扣。 小心地将风扇排线直拉出其插槽。 小心地将风扇排线直拉出其插槽。
    • 用撬棒的尖头翻开风扇ZIF插头的卡扣。

    • 小心地将风扇排线直拉出其插槽。

    my cable was glued, had to be pryed up first.

    maccentric - 回复

    I found it a bit difficult to know exactly when the new one is back in position.

    steffen - 回复

  13. 拆掉下列将风扇固定在上部机身上的螺丝。
    • 拆掉下列将风扇固定在上部机身上的螺丝。

    • 1颗5.0mm T5 内梅花头螺丝。

    • 2颗3.6mm T5 内梅花头螺丝。

    When reinstalling, do the screw closest to the front of the computer first.

    Steve Wechsler - 回复

  14. 举起风扇最靠近显示器合叶的一边并把风扇从上部机身上取走。 举起风扇最靠近显示器合叶的一边并把风扇从上部机身上取走。 举起风扇最靠近显示器合叶的一边并把风扇从上部机身上取走。
    • 举起风扇最靠近显示器合叶的一边并把风扇从上部机身上取走。

    Um, this guide should include steps for applying thermal paste, including instructions to clean the mating surfaces, and pictures showing how much thermal paste to use.

    TheIronGiant - 回复

    Hi @theirongiant, there are generic thermal paste application instructions linked in the introduction “Don't forget to follow our thermal paste application guide before you reinstall your heat sink.”

    Sam Goldheart -

    Make sure to put the end furthest away from the hinge under the ribbon cable first.

    Then place the hinge side. The screw furthest away from the hinge is partially obscured by the ribbon cable.

    If not placed correctly, ribbon cable damage may result.

    toodarkpark - 回复

  15. 拆除这两个将I/O板排线挡板固定在主板上的2.1mm T5 内梅花头螺丝。 拿掉I/O板排线挡板。
    • 拆除这两个将I/O板排线挡板固定在主板上的2.1mm T5 内梅花头螺丝。

    • 拿掉I/O板排线挡板。

  16. 用撬棒的平头以竖直方向从主板的插槽上向上撬起I/O板接头。 小心,只需要撬I/O板排线,不要撬了插槽本身,否则你可能会损伤你的主板。
    • 用撬棒的平头以竖直方向从主板的插槽上向上撬起I/O板接头。

    • 小心,只需要撬I/O板排线,不要撬了插槽本身,否则你可能会损伤你的主板。

  17. 抬起主板这一边的I/O板排线,把它弯到一边。 为防损坏排线,只在I/O板那一边弯曲的地方折弯它。
    • 抬起主板这一边的I/O板排线,把它弯到一边。

    • 为防损坏排线,只在I/O板那一边弯曲的地方折弯它。

  18. 用撬棒的尖头从右侧扬声器接头在主板上的插槽中将其抬起。 用撬棒的尖头从右侧扬声器接头在主板上的插槽中将其抬起。
    • 用撬棒的尖头从右侧扬声器接头在主板上的插槽中将其抬起。

  19. 用撬棒的尖头,推I/O板排线的两边,将其退出它在主板上的插槽。 用撬棒的尖头,推I/O板排线的两边,将其退出它在主板上的插槽。
    • 用撬棒的尖头,推I/O板排线的两边,将其退出它在主板上的插槽。

  20. 用撬棒的平头来断开键盘背光排线并把它弯到主板以外。 用撬棒的平头来断开键盘背光排线并把它弯到主板以外。 用撬棒的平头来断开键盘背光排线并把它弯到主板以外。
    • 用撬棒的平头来断开键盘背光排线并把它弯到主板以外。

  21. 抓住这黑色塑料条来翻开显示器排线接头,将其直拉出它在主板上的插槽。 抓住这黑色塑料条来翻开显示器排线接头,将其直拉出它在主板上的插槽。 抓住这黑色塑料条来翻开显示器排线接头,将其直拉出它在主板上的插槽。
    • 抓住这黑色塑料条来翻开显示器排线接头,将其直拉出它在主板上的插槽。

    In my 2015 retina MacBook Pro 13”: I saw as shown the piece of black plastic tape. One peels this off as shown, using the same tweezers shown, or something else. The tweezers shown work well to lift the stainless steel clip, again as shown. But I add here that the points of the ribbon cable to grab and pull horizontally back are not optimal, as shown. You do not have to grab the ribbon. There are two points where the wire clip attaches to the connector that work well as places to grab with the tweezers shown. Hope this is clear

    Thomas Sturgill - 回复

  22. 小心地拉DC-in板接头,将其直拉出它在主板上的插槽。 小心地拉DC-in板接头,将其直拉出它在主板上的插槽。
    • 小心地拉DC-in板接头,将其直拉出它在主板上的插槽。

  23. 将撬棒的平头插到左侧扬声器排线靠近接头的地方以下,将其直向上抬离插槽并弯到一边。 将撬棒的平头插到左侧扬声器排线靠近接头的地方以下,将其直向上抬离插槽并弯到一边。 将撬棒的平头插到左侧扬声器排线靠近接头的地方以下,将其直向上抬离插槽并弯到一边。
    • 将撬棒的平头插到左侧扬声器排线靠近接头的地方以下,将其直向上抬离插槽并弯到一边。

  24. 如果有必要,揭开盖着麦克风排线ZIF接头的所有胶带。 如果有必要,揭开盖着麦克风排线ZIF接头的所有胶带。
    • 如果有必要,揭开盖着麦克风排线ZIF接头的所有胶带。

  25. 用撬棒的尖头翻开麦克风排线ZIF接头处的卡扣。 把麦克风排线拉出它在主板上的插槽。 把麦克风排线拉出它在主板上的插槽。
    • 用撬棒的尖头翻开麦克风排线ZIF接头处的卡扣。

    • 把麦克风排线拉出它在主板上的插槽。

    This tiny connector was difficult for me, and I hope I have not damaged it. Same design as some connectors already removed. A tiny, plastic front latch is lifted up, causing release. You grab the ribbon cable and pull it back horizontally, and to my surprise, this is end is just one tiny flat metal end, no multiple wire connectors that mate on the male end of the ribbon cable.

    Thomas Sturgill - 回复

  26. 如果有必要,揭开盖着键盘排线接头的所有胶带。 用撬棒的尖头翻起ZIF接头的卡扣。 用撬棒的尖头翻起ZIF接头的卡扣。
    • 如果有必要,揭开盖着键盘排线接头的所有胶带。

    • 用撬棒的尖头翻起ZIF接头的卡扣。

    Also very difficult, because there is so little room to wriggle the ribbon cable, horizontally and backward. The photos do not offer a solution. The points I used are white (at least not black) points on the both, outer edges, and I was able to push there with the tip of the spudger.

    Thomas Sturgill - 回复

  27. 将键盘排线直拉出它在主板上的ZIF插槽。 将键盘排线直拉出它在主板上的ZIF插槽。
    • 将键盘排线直拉出它在主板上的ZIF插槽。

  28. 用撬棒的平头将触摸板接头直向上撬离它在主板上的插槽。 把排线弯到电池以上给主板腾出空间。 把排线弯到电池以上给主板腾出空间。
    • 用撬棒的平头将触摸板接头直向上撬离它在主板上的插槽。

    • 把排线弯到电池以上给主板腾出空间。

  29. 拆掉这5颗将主板固定在上部机身(C壳)上的T5内梅花头螺丝。
    • 拆掉这5颗将主板固定在上部机身(C壳)上的T5内梅花头螺丝。

    Il y en a une plus longue que les autres.

    Easy Repair - 回复

  30. 轻轻抬起主板的CPU一端,将其拉向风扇方向来使端口与上部机身(C壳)边缘分离。 拿掉主板。 拿掉主板。
    • 轻轻抬起主板的CPU一端,将其拉向风扇方向来使端口与上部机身(C壳)边缘分离。

    • 拿掉主板。

    It won't come off; help!

    Zelma Garza - 回复

    It seems to be stuck on the thunderbolt ports for me won’t come out

    Brendan O'Rourk - 回复

  31. 拆除下列将左侧扬声器固定在上部机身(C壳)上的螺丝:
    • 拆除下列将左侧扬声器固定在上部机身(C壳)上的螺丝:

    • 1颗5.7mm T5 内梅花头螺丝

    • 1颗6.5mm T5 内梅花头螺丝

    • 1颗3.8mm T5 内梅花头螺丝

  32. 抬起左侧扬声器的边角,将其滑向电池来从上部机身(C壳)上取下。 小心别在机身边缘处的螺丝口上划破了扬声器排线。 小心别在机身边缘处的螺丝口上划破了扬声器排线。
    • 抬起左侧扬声器的边角,将其滑向电池来从上部机身(C壳)上取下。

    • 小心在机身边缘处的螺丝口上划破了扬声器排线。

  33. 拆掉这单独的1颗将电池连接板边缘固定的3.7mm T5 内梅花头螺丝。
    • 拆掉这单独的1颗将电池连接板边缘固定的3.7mm T5 内梅花头螺丝。

  34. 将撬棒的尖头插到麦克风排线的橡胶盖靠近电池一边的下面,分离那里的胶。 将撬棒的尖头插到麦克风排线的橡胶盖靠近电池一边的下面,分离那里的胶。
    • 将撬棒的尖头插到麦克风排线的橡胶盖靠近电池一边的下面,分离那里的胶。

  35. 用撬棒的平头楔进电池连接板略微向上抬起,以便有足够的空间使双麦克风组件通过。 用撬棒的平头楔进电池连接板略微向上抬起,以便有足够的空间使双麦克风组件通过。
    • 用撬棒的平头楔进电池连接板略微向上抬起,以便有足够的空间使双麦克风组件通过。

  36. 用一把镊子摘除麦克风排线的橡胶盖。 小心,别在机身靠近电池连接板处的螺丝上划破了橡胶盖。 小心,别在机身靠近电池连接板处的螺丝上划破了橡胶盖。
    • 用一把镊子摘除麦克风排线的橡胶盖。

    • 小心,在机身靠近电池连接板处的螺丝上划破了橡胶盖。

  37. 将撬棒的尖头插到麦克风排线的接头处以下,滑向螺丝方向来使其一半脱离上部机身(C壳)。 如果麦克风太紧挑不开,试试用iOpener给它加一下热。加热可以使胶变松并最小化扯破排线的风险。 如果麦克风太紧挑不开,试试用iOpener给它加一下热。加热可以使胶变松并最小化扯破排线的风险。
    • 将撬棒的尖头插到麦克风排线的接头处以下,滑向螺丝方向来使其一半脱离上部机身(C壳)。

    • 如果麦克风太紧挑不开,试试用iOpener给它加一下热。加热可以使胶变松并最小化扯破排线的风险。

  38. 将撬棒的尖头插到电池边缘的麦克风排线以下,滑向螺丝方向来使其脱离上部机身(C壳)。 将撬棒的尖头插到电池边缘的麦克风排线以下,滑向螺丝方向来使其脱离上部机身(C壳)。 将撬棒的尖头插到电池边缘的麦克风排线以下,滑向螺丝方向来使其脱离上部机身(C壳)。
    • 将撬棒的尖头插到电池边缘的麦克风排线以下,滑向螺丝方向来使其脱离上部机身(C壳)。

  39. 将双麦克风组件向上拉,再拉向主板方向使其脱离上部机身(C壳)。 多加小心,不要在机身或是电池连接板的螺丝上划破排线。
    • 将双麦克风组件向上拉,再拉向主板方向使其脱离上部机身(C壳)。

    • 多加小心,不要在机身或是电池连接板的螺丝上划破排线。

结论

若要重新组装你的设备,以逆序执行这些说明。

8等其他人完成本指南。

特别感谢这些译者︰

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Simply DISABLING the microphones can be done in 3 steps: #1, #2, #25, #26. No need to yank the logic board/fan and all that.

Evan Ralston - 回复

Many thanks for preparing / making this brilliant guide available. The mic in my Macbookpro failed for some reason and, using this guide I replaced it with a refurbished spare and saved myself $$. Every single step has been captured with specific additional detail / imagery where needed. It’s scary working with the tiny connectors but this guide gives you confidence it can be done / you can do it.

Nick Cassidy - 回复

Nick Cassidy,

Where did you find a replacement? I have looked EVERYWHERE and can not find one.

Thanks!

Frank Vinyard -

破玩意儿,音量开到100听歌儿几个小时后绝逼带去售后换喇叭。

james - 回复

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