简介
参阅本指南来替换你的 iPhone 7 Plus 内的 Lightning 接口组件，可以解决充电或数据连接等问题。
你所需要的
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用吹风机或者准备一个 iOpener 来加热 iPhone 下方大概一分钟，以软化屏幕下方的粘合剂
How long should I use a hairdryer for?
I used it until it was hot to the touch but not too hot where you burn yourself.
gczarny -
Hey, I just took apart my first iPhone 7 plus today, and it was easier for me to use guitar picks and a magic glass tool. I did tear the home flex on the screen—now I know to be more careful of that on disassembly—-~Katrina of iPad Rehab Microsoldering
Get a T-shirt add heat to a lil corner of it, with either a hair straighter or an Iron , touch the T-shirt if it’s seems hot but doesn’t burn u hold that lil hot piece of T-shirt against the edge ur trying to pry open , if it’s still not opening add a I’ll more heat,
I took a hot water bottle and layed it on the display of the iPhone for a minute, because I did not have an iOpener. That worked for me perfect.
How can I get all this tools
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在前面板的下半部分放置一个吸盘，正好位于Home按钮的上方。
Hi! My suction cup doesn’t work. It won’t strongly suck on my screen. Does anyone have any advice?
Heat it up just a little with a hair dryer make sure it’s flat , let it coo a bit now try it??
robertread - 回复
The suction cup you provide sucks. In that it doesn’t hold. Luckily I had a set of heavy duty suction cups from when I worked on my iMac.
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以固定的恒定拉力上拉吸盘，来使得前面板和后壳之间产生轻微的间隙。
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将撬起工具的扁端插入间隙。
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在向上拉起吸盘的同时，旋转撬起工具以加宽屏幕和后壳之间的开口。
Be very careful not to pull up with too much force. My screen just shattered while I was pulling up with my suction cup. (There were no previous cracks or chips or anything).
I’m stuck on this part. I’ve heated the bottom up and attached the suction cup right above the home button, but I can’t pull it apart. I feel like I’m going to break the glass display. Tips?
Someone mentioned above, using strong tape helps .
My first 7 Plus opening. I pulled up the screen just enough to insert a thin guitar pick at the bottom of the phone to break the adhesive. I didn’t even create a gap as such. I then ran the pick along the sides to continue to detach the adhesive, just like iFixIt show in Step 10 for the top of the phone.
My screen already had a crack at the bottom, near the home button, so I was nervous about pulling too hard on the screen. It had a screen protector fitted so maybe that helped keep it all together.
iFixIt’s use of a spudger at the bottom of the phone looked hazardous to me, especially with my damaged screen.
This must be a joke. I’ve been trying for days to pull open the iphone like this. Doesn’t work. I bent the ring on the suction cup trying to pull it off, but nothing happens, no gap, not remote possibility of a pick or spudger getting in there.
Ended up using a blowdryer and a razor blade. Bottom got scratched up, but there was no way that fat plastic spudger was going to fit. I got the razor under the corner, from there worked to middle and twisted with repeatedly adding heat. Lots of heat.
Be aware that there is a small connector, under the home button.
Herb Adler - 回复
I found that the edge of the spudger was too thick, so I sanded it down to almost a knife edge. This made it much easier to insert into the gap.
Herb Adler - 回复
Use the Opener and a razor blade to cut through the adhesive. It takes about 45 seconds to heat up the Opener in a 1000 watt microwave. Be careful not to damage the thin display ribbon cables on the right side iphone. After you use the razor blade to cut the adhesive on the two sides and bottom you should be able to use the spudger to remove the display screen.
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沿着手机顶部的边缘开口，使用开启塑料片滑动，以松开最后粘合剂。
I couldn't find the pick in the tool set, so made my own. Then I found the original in the battery box. %#*@.
Herb Adler - 回复
Same thing for me
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将显示屏组件拉到略微远离手机的顶部边缘，使其脱离将显示器固定至后壳上的卡勾。
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通过从左侧摆动显示屏来打开iPhone，就像翻开一本书的封底页。
So if I broke the cable that connects the display to the logic board. What replacement part would I need to order now?
Probably the screen
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卸下四颗将下方显示线缆保护片固定至逻辑版的三端Y000螺丝：
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三颗1.2 mm螺丝
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一颗2.6 mm螺丝
Is it really safe to lay the device fully open like a book? The cable leading to the LCD gets stretched across the sharp edge of the aluminum edge of the back cover.
Generally I'd say no, it's not safe. In reality I've seen a bit of variance in the cable length, and sometimes it'll be fine—but mostly I'd be prepared to prop the display up or hold it in place at a slight angle so it doesn't put too much stress on the cables. On prior iPhones it was easy to rubberband the display to a box or a can of soda, and something like that would probably work well here too. Use your own judgment.
You could stick the suction cup back on, near the right side of the phone, with the blue hook oriented in such a way that it becomes a stand for the screen. That way it won’t open much more than 90 degrees, and leaves both your hands free.
Mark -
The tri wing screws are so hard to remove. What's the trick?
I cannot remove one of the corner screws in this step and i have used the tweezers and the y000 tri tip and i am afraid that it is stripping it. is there a work around for this step?
@katmonday1 No workaround unfortunately. Make sure the driver tip is in good condition and fits the screw correctly. Seat it in the screw, hold the driver perfectly vertical, press down hard (and maintain it), and turn. It’ll come out. If it’s really stripped you’ll have to get more aggressive—try one or more of the techniques in this guide or get some help. Good luck!
A tip to remember which screw is which as the differences are pretty tiny: I used different colored sharpie fine-points and made a mark on the top of the screws before removing. I thought about having strips of tape that I stuck similar sizes to, but the coloring seemed to work more easily. I only did this for step 11 and it saved me down the road when trying to differentiate the 1.2 and the 1.3mm screws!
Trey Smith - 回复
STOP! Before you remove Any screws, be sure to create several bins to hold the various sizes in… or mark them like Trey suggested. I failed to pay attention because I thought they were all the same… they are not. It is very hard to figure out the sizes if you remove them all and store them in a single location.
John Grant - 回复
i had a piece of paper with the steps numbered that involved screws. I had double sided tape on the paper and the number of screws and thier position marked. This was so helpful in removing and then finding and installing the tiniest screws on earth. And i have TINY hands. I can’t imagine someone with large paws being able to accomplish any of this.
there is one screw thats 1.2 mm but its bigger than the others and will fit in no hole of the entire phone. i got it out bot now i have no idea where it has to go i tried every hole. can somebody help me?
Lars Göbel - 回复
what do i do if one of the screws dont want to come off
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卸下下方显示线缆保护片
I am confused, please help. LOL the bracket, the very first one being removed. I see it has three screws the same size and one a different size? I've been trying to fix my daughter's phone and ordered a 0.6 mm Tri Wing screwdriver for iPhone 7 plus /Apple watch. It seems to fit the screws and it seems to be turning them although I can't see that well but they're not coming out. However when I used it on a smaller bracket with two screws they came right out so I'm thinking I don't have the right screwdriver I am at my Wit's End!! I have been working on this phone or attempting to for a while now. I cannot find a list anywhere of the exact size screwdrivers needed to Take apart an iPhone 7 plus. Any help would be greatly appreciated.
chris west - 回复
If your tri-wing screwdriver worked for other tri-point screws in the phone, then it should work for the screws you are struggling with! If it feels like the screws are spinning but not coming out, try to use tweezers to pull them out. I often struggle with tri-point screws, and need to apply some downward pressure to remove them. This can be risky though, as you do not want to strip the screw or damage components underneath the bracket. If you continue to struggle, you can give this driver and this bit a try.
Also be aware that the battery connector might stick to the bottom of the steel bracket. This part had me a bit puzzled at first. lol
Just gently pry the connector off the steel bracket to release it and be sure the connector isn’t allowed to accidentally reconnect to the board.
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使用撬棒的尖端从逻辑板的插座上撬起并断开电池的连接。
on reassembly, make sure that the connector cable is back in place, along side the battery, and not up, or on top in any way.
I slipped a small piece of paper under the flap.
After this step it is worth jumping to step 36 and disconnecting the lighting connector assembly (indicated with the orange rectangle) and connecting the new cable to test it out. After attaching the new lightning connector assembly, reattach the battery, and try plugging it in to see if the new assembly works correctly. If it does, then power down the phone, disconnect the battery, and disconnect the new lightning connector assembly. Then continue. If it doesn’t work, this check will save you a couple of hours of work.
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使用撬棒的平端或者指甲以撬开两个下部显示连接器，笔直地从逻辑版的插座上撬起。
What can happen if the battery is not disconnected before the two lower display connectors?
Hello, by my expierence and what i have learned iphone repair videos you can ‘blow up’ capacitors which one in logic board, screen is sensetive with voltages and etc….
When I removed the lower display cable bracket in step 12, the top connector stuck to the bracket and became disconnected.
My replacement screen wouldn't sit in the display connector properly, (wouldn't clip in both sides at same time) so I made sure it sat on one and it was lined up and got a thin piece of dense sponge and placed that over the connector, then proceeded to install the connector shield and screen works perfectly fine without a hitch. Very good tutorial just earnt me £25 lol
have the same issue, sometimes it doesn’t sit on the left side, other time not on the other, the difference is iphone not starting at all or looping with apple logo reboot…
ibisiki -
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卸下三颗固定前部面板传感器组件连接器的保护盖的三端Y000螺丝。
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一颗1.3mm螺丝
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两颗1.0mm螺丝
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卸下保护盖。
Posted a comment above on the first step. The screwdriver that I ordered Works taking out these two screens shown in the picture. However it does not work on the first bracket that needs to be removed. It seems that all screw sizes are somewhat different but I'm not finding a list showing different screwdriver sizes needed. Does this make sense? Could anybody please give me some advice on this thank you much.
chris west - 回复
What happens if you break “tear in half” the black tape stuff?
Unfortunately if you tear the black cable you will need to replace it !!!
Chris West the screwdriver that probably came with the kit was pentalobe to get the first two screws out to open the case. you need a .6mm Y tip driver for internal. its deceptively Phillips looking but is not it only has three blades in a Y, not 4 in a +
I called the y tip a triangle tip until I read these comments. Thanks for the correction
Hello is it if I put wrong screw can damage the board?
Care should be taken while removing the last 1.0mm screw, on the far right in the picture. This screw is screwed into another screw (or standoff) beneath the bracket. This standoff may come unscrewed and upon removing the bracket you may find the screw and standoff are still attached to the bracket. Do not lose this part if you decide to separate them , the standoff is not a normal phillips, and may require a special driver to reinstall. I used the phillips to start it back in, and relied on the screw to tighten it upon reassembly.
I know this is late bit a trick I use to put the standoffs in (had to do 2 cause someone lost the screws I was replacing) is to take the screw that goes in it srew them together loosely to give it a fake phillips head then gently screw both into the spot the standoff goes in. you can then take the phillips out (may need to put a spudger between the screw and standoff to keep the standoff down then use a tiny flathead to gently tighten the standoff down. its a few steps but makes life easier if you need to replace it quickly.
I was able to remove the first 1.0 mm three tri-point Y000 screw from the bracket but I cannot for the life of me get the other 1.0 mm screw undone or the one 1.3 mm screw undone. Any tips?
I tried pressing down a bit harder and I even put the first screw back in to see if it helped me loosen the other two but it did not work.
My screwdriver was doing the job up until this point, and I’m worried I’ll strip the screw if I keep trying.
Would appreciate any advice!
Dear IFixit: First, I want You to know I love your repair guides. I consider You to be the absolute best repair manuals available. But, hopefully as your friend I am going to point out once the bracked is removed a 2.0 mm Standoff screw should appear. It’s 1 of 2 screws holding the Antena Flex Cable in place. Rob
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从逻辑板的插座上断开前部面板传感器总成连接器。
Make sure that the orientation of the cable when you attach is correct! See the picture for the correct orientation. If it gets installed 180 degrees out(i.e., the ribbon goes up instead of down, then the earphone, front camera, and Home button will be inoperative. Ask me how I know!?! Worked great when installed correctly!
Thanks Kevin. I would be stuck if I hadn't read your comment!?! Great input.
That's save my life!thanks god!
neg -
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卸下显示屏总成。
When removing the old adhesive from the edges, duct tape can be useful. Simply use small strips of duct tape and your spudger to press the tape’s adhesive side carefully into the edges of the phone’s display and slowly peel the duct tape away from the display. The duct tape should pick up the remaining adhesive and carry it away from the edges. use the tip of the spudger to gently scrape away any remaining dirt or film from the crease around the edge and repeat the action with a new strip of tape to pick up any dirt, adhesive or grime from the surface. This should save considerable time.
Thank you for including a link to the iPhone Display Adhesive Replacement guide, this was very helpful!
is it really necessary to remove the display? the screen connectors are delicate and I fear re-assembly errors. I changed the battery and did not remove any screen connectors. no problems.
Due to the fact that THIS is the repair guide for replacing the DISPLAY it IS necessary to remove the display connectors. There is another guide for changing the battery -- you might want to follow that one.
Hannes -
I did not remove the display and ended up ripping one of the lower display cable ribbons when I turned the phone to remove one of the connectors. Be careful. I had to get a new display and move the Touch ID button.
Shawn Hime - 回复
I think that moving the replacement of the seal lower in the chain of events would be more beneficial. I'm replacing the battery, and stretching the adhesive tabs that held the battery in at a low angle kept sticking themselves to the newly-installed adhesive seal.
In the end, I wound up having to just remove the section of the seal along the bottom of the case :-/
If I'd been looking at the bigger picture, I'd have wanted to put the seal on right before reattaching the screen cables.
This guide does not show you the removal process for the top camera assembly. My screen looks like the one pictured but my replacement doesn't have the top connector or any of the front facing camera components and since the ribbon for the connectors looks like its coming out from underneath the display I can't see how to swap it over to the new display.
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移除三颗固定天线的十字螺丝。
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两颗 1.3 mm 螺丝
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一颗 1.2 mm 螺丝
It is not necessary to remove the logic board. remove the three standoff screws and the simcard holder and push back the sim ejector pin and you can lift the logic board up about 7mm. with isopropyl to loosen the adhesive, slide a spudger under the old charge port cable you can easily slide it out. Makes the job a lot easier and quicker.
Yep it works, Jack. Thank you.
Simon -
Thanks Jack,
Followed your advice and saves a fair bit of work.
To each it’s own, but it was much better for me once I went through the steps and took the logic board off. It’s not hard. Without taking the board off, I found that the logic board is just too rigid to easily lift it up by 7mm. Plus the old Lightning Port assembly is stuck on the case pretty strong and putting the new one in with the adhesive and lining it up correctly would be impossible for me without the logic board clear out of the way. My personal recommendation is to stick to the script on this iFixit process.
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移除 1.3 mm 十字螺丝，此螺丝把天线固定到后盖的顶端。
This screw is slightly larger than the other 1.3mm ones. Don't mix it up like me.
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移除固定后置摄像头的金属罩上的两个螺丝：
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一个1.6mm十字螺丝
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一个2.2mm底座螺丝
Why is there a standoff screw here? No other screw goes into it so why not have a Phillips?
More to the point, why doesn’t the Ifixit tool kit for this job come with the bit required?
Second that, sitting here trying to figure out how to get it out.
iFixit kits do come with all the required bits, but sometimes specialty bits like this one are packed into a different part of the box. Unpack the entire kit and you should find it. In the unlikely event that it really is missing due to a packing error, contact customer support and they’ll send you the missing bit ASAP.
I strongly urge Ifixit to change this comment “In a pinch, a flathead screwdriver will do the job” - maybe ok for REMOVAL ONLY, but for REASSEMBLY - it is very dangerous - i used a flathead while fixing my daughters phone and they kept going crooked - easily causing me 1-2 hours of frustration and STRIPPING THE THREADS IN THE ALUMINUM BACK FRAME BODY !!!!
I had to hot glue a couple spots and skip several screws on reassembly to do the jankiest, most embarrasing repair job - BUY THE RIGHT SPECIAL TOOL FOR THE STANDOFF SCREWS OR YOU’LL REGRET IT!!!
There is no tool for this special screw. What gives?
My kit has the standoff bit, just wasn't in the tool tray, it was loose in the box with another bit.
I tried it with the flat blade instead of the standoff screwdriver and it worked, but I figure it added about 15 minutes of fumbling around and some risk of slipping and stripping. I have the iFixIt kit with like 80 bits so I just assumed it would be in there. Had I known before starting, I would have definitely gotten a standoff bit, just for the peace of mind.
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移除手机上缘内侧的天线排线上的一颗1.3mm十字螺丝。
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移除软性天线上的其余十字螺丝。
Evan O is right! There is a 2.0 mm Standoff screw right below; and possibly slightly left, of the top 1.3 mm Phillips screw. It should actually show up in Step 15 as soon as the bracket is removed. Rob
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将天线排线向手机的上方倾斜。
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将螺丝孔滑出凹槽。
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移除天线排线。
What is underneath the Antena flex Cable?
I’m still waiting for response. Someone had the nerve to ask me, ‘Which Antena flex Cable?’ with response.
IfixIt: I need You to clarify something I just descovered. I just received different iPhone 7 Plus and Antena flex cable came off and left Standoff screw still on logic board. Different iPhone 7 Plus actually has Standoff screw attached to cable in way it’s impossible to separate.
Rob
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使用一个薄的撬棒或镊子小心地将两个同轴的排线插头从主板分离。
What purpose do these coax cables have?
Note… the top coax (nearest the battery connector) leads to the WiFi Diversity Antenna on the speaker assembly. The other coax is for the secondary cell antenna, part of the lightning assembly. Be sure to reassemble them to the right sockets!
Thanks so much for this helpful comment! I have just spent a few hours trying to find that information and here it is.
thalley -
Thank you so much, same as Thalley, more than 30 minutes that I’m searching for this info everywhere !!
Any tips on remembering which coax goes to which socket?
Thanks, I was almost certain but the OEM part came with longer coax, your post saved me time, and reasured me ;)
Ronald Stamper, is this the same for the 7?
Keah Smith - 回复
%#*@, the ifixit's coaxial connector's quality is such a rubbish. needed a lucky chance to actually insert it into the slot
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移除以下7颗主板上的螺丝：
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一颗1.3mm十字螺丝
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两颗2.1mm 固定螺丝
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一颗 2.0 mm大头固定螺丝
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一颗 2.0 mm小头固定螺丝
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两颗 2.2 mm固定螺丝
I did not have the 2.0mm standoff screw (closest to the edge of the phone by the power button). The bracket over the front panel sensor assembly connector (Step 15) was screwed in to this spot.
I experienced the same.
BEWARE. THIS GUIDE IS WRONG. Whoever did this guide is obviously an amateur who doesn't know what they're doing. The standoffs are vastly different from each other in width and design. There is a SPECIFIC standoff for the top "yellow" circle which connects to the ground clip.
DO NOT REMOVE THESE SCREWS / STANDOFFS WITHOUT CAREFULLY DOCUMENTING EACH INDIVIDUAL LOCATION AND SCREW
FIX YOUR GUIDE!!!
Pablo is right, there IS a visible difference between the two yellow 2.0 mm standoff screws - make a note of which is which (label, drawing, etc.) when you’re at this step.
1) The fact iFixit marks tho DIFFERENT SCREWS as IDENTICAL i s a big shame. Really guys, DO go an extra mile and account screws thoroughly. Luckily other screws seem to be marked correctly
2) since iFixit was lazy to compose a build-up instruction:
better take care of connecting the ports BEFORE you screw tightly the board to the rest of the phone! This gives you some degree of freedom to move the board a bit to be able to click the ports in without destroying them -- its especially the case for the connection with the lightning board, where the chip might be misaligned by a fraction of a millimetre in the direction along the chip even if you placed the lightning chip perfectly in terms of those two pins mentioned below -- you just won't have enough length of the flat cable to align the port (because the flatness and shortness of the cable blocks the movement in the direction you need to align) and risk pressing flat the tiny contacts.
Hi all.
Thank you for leaving your comments! We have changed the guide accordingly to show two separate screws with larger and smaller screw heads. Going forward, you can always directly edit the guides if you have any improvements—we are a wiki after all!
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使用Spudger撬棒的尖端小心地将两个同轴排线插头从主板上固定它们的小金属片上移走。
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在后部卸下两颗固定气压组件的Phillips螺丝：
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一颗2.9mm螺丝。
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一颗2.1mm螺丝。
I skipped this step and go straight to step 25. I skipped it because I couldn’t get the screws to come off. But skipping those step did not prevent me or has any detrimental effects on performing step 25.
Jamie Liao - 回复
I agree, I don’t see any reason to remove the Taptic engine to remove the battery…It seems like more of a chance of screwing something else up…keep it simple…
If you’re replacing the battery, removing the Taptic Engine gives you a much better chance of removing the battery adhesive strips successfully. To keep them from snagging and breaking, you want to pull them from as low an angle as possible. With the Taptic Engine in the way, you have to pull them at almost 90 degrees, or risk snagging them on the Taptic Engine.
i can’t get the 2.1 screw 2 come out pls help anyone
John Bryce - 回复
I agree with Jamie Liao above. Skips steps 18-24 as described. Before proceeding with step 25, I heated a microwavable hot/cold compress (used to treat muscle strains). I set the iPhone back casing on the heated compress before pulling out the adhesive strips.
Again, there is no need to do steps 18 through 24.
i didn’t remove this and had major issues pulling the adhesive strips out. I literally couldn’t grasp them and then when i did, they broke! UGH! I was able to complete the installation but i must have done something wrong because my phone still isnt working. It just ‘flashes’ the apple logo. Won’t do anything else. Should have just taken it in for repair. Now i have to buy a new phone anyway.
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温柔地把气压计向 Taptic Engine 的方向推动，分离固定 iPhone 底部的黏胶。
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移除 Taptic Engine。
I’m just gonna add a comment here because I’m guessing a lot of other people who are repairing iphone 7s, like me, thought “lets also get a new battery!” This is the point at which you pull the three tape pieces holding the battery to the case out to remove the old battery. When you install a new battery, the battery connector has to be able to line up perfectly with the plug on the logic board so the battery has to go back in the exact right place. This is harder when you’ve already taken apart most of the phone. I ended up putting the battery back in after step 37. Still difficult to positiion it right. I think if I did it again, I might mark where the battery is on the case before I remove it…
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小心地将两根同轴线缆从扬声器侧面的金属支架上移除。
per disinguere l'ordine dei connetori vedere l'ottima guida di ifixit dove sostituzione antenna, buon lavoro.
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移除固定扬声器的五颗十字螺丝：
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三颗 1.3mm 螺丝
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一颗 2.3mm 螺丝
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一颗 3.3mm 螺丝
Yes! I marked one with a fine point sharpie to tell the difference. Super important to make a note of each piece, cable, and their position along the way!
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移除扬声器。
One of the coaxial cables is attached to speaker. Was pulling out the speaker and this was tripping me up until I looked closer
Alan Ehrle - 回复
Be careful when putting this part aside with the others as it has magnetics on it and can catch your screw messing them around. The struggle is real.
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移除您刚刚移除的螺丝下的金属垫片。
Whats this part used for?
The inverted twitters just saved me from a headache when trying to put this one back in.
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移除将 Lightning 接口固定在手机下缘的两颗 1.2mm 十字螺丝。
The right one on my phone won’t come out as if it’s rounded off but isn’t any ideas ?
I had that same problem with one of them. I ended up ripping that piece off and then spinning the entire thing around and that loosened it enough to where i could use another screw driver to spin it out the rest of the way.
Tiene cada tornillo una rondana tipo tierra que a veces se queda pegada a placa del circuito DGC
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使用 iFixit 撬棒的尖锐端将两个麦克风从固定它们的粘胶上分离。
I was replacing the battery as well. Now is a great time to remove it.
I followed John’s advice, and it went smoothly. My iPhone had a white outline of where the battery was on the back case (you can see the white lines in the photo), but I added a few more lines with a white marker just to make sure I would put the new battery in the correct place.
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将拨片从手机一侧划动到另一侧，将排线所有部分从后壳上分离。
During re-assembly, ensure you add those four kinks in the ribbon sections that drop down the ridge in the rear casing (perhaps very carefully bend them in shape before sticking the new connector assembly to the casing, which I’ve not yet tried). Otherwise the new ribbon won’t sit directly over the white dots higher up the case, leading to misalignment when trying to connect other ribbon cables later on.
I thought I understood what Dan meant above. What he’s saying is really helpful, but I didn’t quite understand. During reassembly, I ended up trying to make the bends with a spooger once the replacement piece was already in the case and I poked a small hole through the piece, just missing an electrical component (it still worked). You can see the four bends in the picture here, (all horozontal to the bottom of the phone) but they might be easier to understand if you look at the old lightning connector piece you just took out. They’re four tiny kinks that are essential. If I did it again, I would make the kinks, then apply the ends of the “L” of this part and work toward the bend or the angle of the “L” in the corner. This was probably the hardest part of the repair…
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移除 Lightning 接口组件。
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使用塑料工具移除后壳上所有残留的粘胶。
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你可以使用蘸取（90%或以上浓度）的酒精的无绒布清洁表面的残留物。注意仅朝一个方向擦拭，不要来回擦。
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确保将 Lightning 接口组件排线上的两个小孔对准手机后壳上的两个小白点。如果没对准的话，会导致排线偏移，并且排线上的插头无法连接到主板上的插座上。
For re-assembly, I first removed the adhesive below the red circles and aligned and adhered. Then, I moved my way down toward the bottom, removing the adhesive. Seemed to work out well.
This should be in the instructions. It is nearly impossible to align otherwise.
Same as Jaret, I have first exposed the adhesive on the very top section of the lightning port assembly, aligned the assembly with the 2 dots right in the center, and then adhered it there. Then I carefully “rehearesed” / practiced how I would align the rest of the assemble down to the microphones and the connector itself. The top section although already glued on around the two dots, can still slide a bit so I can realign it if needed before I adhere the rest of the assembly. Before I adhere the rest of the assembly I have also placed the logic board just to verify that the top Lightning Port assembly connector goes on perfectly onto the logic board. This helps confirm that it’s sitting well at the top.
Getting the port connector in as well as the microphones was a bit tedious but that’s the most important part of this process so I took the time to do it right. It was worth it as the phone worked perfectly when I put it all back together.
S C -
I think a picture of what to clean is needed as if there is anything left it may not fit
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Excellent procedure to take it apart however the kit came with a ‘Mesh’ kit of gaskets and speaker vents with no actual instructions of what is what or when each should be installed. One item that was not in the ‘Mesh’ kit is the rectangular gasket for the lighting connector. Even though it come off the old assembly easily enough there is no adhesive to hold it in place when aligning the assembly into the case.
I think there should be a parts list with the Mesh kit to make identifying these tiny seal identifiable. That would be helpful.
Agree with WADE TURNER. This is really, really weak on the part of iFixit. You need clearer instructions for putting this thing back together—particularly for the adhesives with no identification whatsoever. Also, I hope you are reading this, because aligning the lightning connector assembly perfectly is CRITICAL. If it is not perfectly aligned, there is no way you will be able to connect it to the logic board later.
I third the comments here.
Todd Toner - 回复
Normally when I replace the charge port on any iPhone or device I first connect it to the mainboard to test the connector. After I know that the charge port flex will connect and take amperage from the lightning cable. I leave the flex connector connected to the mainboard and proceed in installing the flex, with the motherboard first, Then I will route the charge port flex cable to the bottom of the phone. That ensures proper placement of the connector and also no kinks in the flex when applying it to the frame.
As for the microphone or any small component that needs sealant I use a liquid adhesive (no super Glue) use like T7000 T8000 or similar. Take a toothpick and dab a small amount around the area that needs adhesive. Then adhere to the 2 pieces( in this case the microphone to the frame. This always provides a water-tight seal. No matter the location.
My Lightning Port assembly came with both the membrane that goes onto the microphone, as well as a pair of “screen” mesh that replace the old ones at the opening for the phone’s speaker and heat port. It took a few minutes to inspect everything and replace them but it’s one-to-one replacement so it helps. There were also a couple of other adhesive parts that I couldn’t see on my phone. Don’t know their purpose.
In summary additional explanation would help but as is it was decent enough. With the investigation and thinking, the whole process took me much longer than 2 hours but my phone is working fantastically and it was well worth it.
For my repair the adhesive patch that goes on the microphone shown bottom right in the third image was the wrong size. It was about 2mm to long, which meant that the two small holes which are supposed to line up with spikes on the phone body did not. I had the cut it to size. Also, I echo the comments made by others above. Simply stating 'follow this procedure in reverse' is suitable, especially after how much we paid. There are many intricacies that aren't explained that aren't needed when disassembling by are needed when assembling.
将你新更换的零件与原始零件进行比较——你可能需要在安装前转移剩余的组件或去除新零件上的背胶。
按本指南的相反步骤操作来重新组装你的设备。
将你的电子垃圾带到 R2 or e-Stewards 认证的回收商。
将你新更换的零件与原始零件进行比较——你可能需要在安装前转移剩余的组件或去除新零件上的背胶。
按本指南的相反步骤操作来重新组装你的设备。
将你的电子垃圾带到 R2 or e-Stewards 认证的回收商。
193等其他人完成本指南。
41条评论
NOTE TO ALL: When you put the port back in, LINE UP THE HOLES ON THE FRAME. If you don’t line up the holes perfectly on the cable (even if it’s off by a millimeter), the cable will NOT extend and plug into the logic board. It has to be perfect. You’re welcome :)
I have this issue but cant seem to get it to set properly? any ideas the po seems like it's in fine but wont connect to logic board
I feel like this is the most important piece of information on this entire guide. I drove myself mad disassembling and reassembling multiple iPhone 7/8 Plus devices with this exact issue.
Conrad -
So i did this and now my home button does not work. Any suggestions?
So far as I can tell, the only part of this procedure that affects the home button is when it’s disconnected from the board in step 14. I’d probably double-check those connectors to make sure they’re seated properly for a start. Check the sockets for dust/debris or pin damage. Inspect the cables for damage. While you’re troubleshooting, remember to always disconnect the battery first and reconnect it last. Good luck!
Hi there, I did the whole process successfully, phone starts up again but I charging does not work?? Tried different cables - didn’t work! Any suggestions? Thanks Thomas
Either you haven’t connected it back up properly, you may have bent pins or debris on the connections or you have a faulty charging flex cable.
Clems -
One of the parts isn’t genuine. Either your actual charging port or the cable you’re using.
Clems -
So I did this and now it shows ”this accessory may not be supported,” any suggestions?
I replaced my charging port and now the service is not coming to my phone. Does anyone know which antennae or cable I messed up when replacing it? Wifi works but not data.
I have had the same issue happen. I tried multiple charging ports for my customer and each one would lose cell service. The second I put the original port back in, service was working again. I called my tech support team to no solution. Has anyone else experienced this and able to get it resolved?
I took it slowly and was extra careful. everything worked out perfectly, except putting the adhesive back on, good thing I was also changing the battery so I had two. One thing you should note is which coaxial cables go where before you disconnect them. I was lucky that one was longer than the other and thats how I figured it out.
Dose this lightning connector part come with the microphones
It is not necessary to remove the logic board. remove the three standoff screws and the simcard holder and push back the sim ejector pin and you can lift the logic board up about 7mm. with isopropyl to loosen the adhesive, slide a spudger under the old charge port cable you can easily slide it out. Makes the job a lot easier and quicker.
Can you give a little more explanation here? It might make total sense once I’m inside, but I’m having trouble figuring out which three standoff screws you’re referring to. Looking at step 37, is it the two 2.2 mm screws (green) and the 2.0 mm screw (yellow) on the right side? And do you think I can do it this way without isopropyl alcohol? I’ve only got 70% on hand.
pphenow -
i did this but phone still dead
This is a very difficult and risky procedure. As an experienced electronics and tech hobbyist and professional (i’m a king nerd), after hours of methodical disassembly, part replacement and reassembly, I managed to not fix my phone and make it worst. Now my battery doesn’t recharge, my SIM card is not being recognized, and the phone is likely not water resistant anymore. A huge waste of time (and some money). I would not recommend anyone moving ahead with this procedure.
I cannot get my charging port to connect back to the main board i have tried setting the port a few times but still no joy?
Sean Smyth - 回复
So my brother changed mine and mixed up all the screws.. how in the world do I find out which screws go where?? Is there a new screw set I can buy that’s already in order
I have done lots of these on 7 and 7+………. can be done without removing the logic board, which saves a lot of steps.
Gently lift it and slide something underneath it to free it, and you can slide the old port flex out and the new one in……. just make sure its
in the right position and you can connect it to the board before setting the logic board back down.
Alan Sears - 回复
made this repair. phone is charging now…thank god. everything else is working. but my rear face camera image is shaking( blurry than focused and repeating) front facing camera image on screen is perfect. Helppppppp
morris3891 - 回复
im about to do this repair and now im worried after reading comments
Finished the whole repair but my speaker seams to not be working any suggestions to fix this everything else works fine
Hello,
my iphone is 7plus having two issue one of them is battery is gone very fast so i think i have to changed it but i have another issue i would like your opinon once i make a call i can’t hear anything and the receiver same can’t hear anything so what i have to fixed it.
thank you
I did the replacement for the lightning connector, it works but now the touch screen doesn’t work. Any suggestions on why this is happening? I went back through the process twice and still the same result. I was careful not to damage the connectors to the screen but I can see if there’s damage or not. Any suggestions would be helpful. Thanks.
The reason I Changed the part is the microphone does not work right after I installed everything I only got the apple logo and nothing else , would not work I had to put back the old part back and it started but still have the microphone problem
An important note when attaching the new lightning port ribbon cable and coaxial cables to the logic board: the new part needs foam padding on top of the press fit cable attachments. You can either steal it from your old ones or put some padding there some other way, but if you don’t have it, it seems the cable bracket will short the connection and prevent the phone from charging. Some of the ifixit parts will not have this padding on there, so double check!
I followed the instructions to the letter, was very very very careful with handling the ribbon cables and keeping the screws labelled in separate pots so they went back in exactly the right places, changed the charging port and installed a brand new ifixit battery for good measure. Put it all back together and…nothing. Battery won’t charge, neither will the old one. Powers on with the old battery but thats it. Have checked all my work several times, re-attached the ribbon cables and still nothing. I now have to take it to one of those untrustworthy mobile phone repair shops you find all over the UK that I have been trying so hard to avoid. A massive waste of time and money.
Well my first attempt was going so well and then trying to remove the sticky backing from the back of one of the mics and the whole mic came off at the ribbon. Arrrgh, So thought maybe it would work with one mic and carried on but now the lightening connector not aligned with logic board AARRGGH!.
Can someone tell me what the yellow circular tab is for on one of the microphones. I don’t see tho son the one removed. Thanks
Thanks this was really help for a junior engineer like me.
Ok step 37 is VERY misleading. Those standoff screws are NOT interchangeable with the others labeled with the same color.
When you are taking off the motherboard, be extremely careful to keep the standoffs organized.
Replacement connector to the logic board does not stay connected. Snaps in, but won’t stay on. Aligned the dots just fine. It’s not an alignment issue. The connector goes on just fine. It just doesn’t stay on.
So to follow up, reconnecting and disconnecting everything down to the Lightning Connector Assembly itself about three times…no joy. Finally just closed the phone without the seals. I get the mic and the cellular connection…yeah. — But NO CHARGING. I get the “this accessory may not be supported” error message. — So what now “I Fix It”, huh? This whole process is a mess: from lack of proper instructions (coax cables not properly labeled. Some screws are different when labeled the same) and the kit you sell us is missing the Stand-Over screwdriver we need for the procedure! Your kit we paid for is incomplete, and we only find out once we’ve got the phone open. I didn’t fix it, and surely not with your help.
This one was not fun. I used to love fixing iPhones because they were so much simpler than other brands, but once the water resistance -- and techniques to hobble non-OEM parts -- were introduced, they became a nightmare. This port better last, because I think I'm done buying iPhones; Not being able to easily repair them anymore is a deal breaker.
Thanks for the great tutorial!
The recommendation of discharging the battery is completely unnecessary. Even a 25% charged battery can explode. Completely ridiculous suggestion.
pargoff - 回复
The risk of thermal runaway on these batteries decreases with the battery's SOC (state of charge). Below 50% charge the risk is fairly low, and at 25% charge the risk of a thermal event is near zero. If I recall correctly, the same suggestion appears in Apple's official (non-public) service manuals for the iPhone.
Jeff Suovanen -
@jeffsu Yes, that is correct. Apple does require all certified staff to discharge the battery below 25%. This is an industry standard for all LiION batteries. If you don’t want to do this, just make sure to not puncture the battery and disconnect it first thing.
iHelpU.Tech - 回复
Hang on a second here, doesn’t the Ifixit part I ordered come with the seals? The display assembly? It doesn’t. Now I have to wait another week?!
Vanessa Pinter - 回复
How do you turn off if the screen isn’t responding to touch?
adam - 回复
The replacement battery came with the seal—but how do you put it on???
lkollar - 回复
Instructions for replacing the seal are here: iPhone显示屏粘合胶的更换
bester - 回复
I just found the instructions on how to install the seals AFTER I was completed and had to figure it out. Maybe, just maybe you should link this somewhere on the guild instead of buried in a comment. Just a thought.
Charles Meitin - 回复
Step 1 is: Read through all the steps and comments or the method prior to starting on this Step 1. There's a lot of much needed information and experience that you can learn from which will reduce the chance of struggling, wasting time or even breaking your device.
My favourites are:
Use a hot water bottle.
Label all screws you remove with their size and location on a piece of paper with double sided sticky tape.
Test the lightning assembly at step 13
There is a Standoff driver bit in the box, don't use a screwdriver.
etc...
Neil Eriksen - 回复
A tip for looking out for all those little screws. I used an ice block tray, for all the little screws etc. I numbered each with the step number, as in the instructions, but not all steps have bits to look out for. Where two different size screws are used I had a tray for each size and marked step a and step b. For this I coloured each tray sticker with the colour of the screw as shown in the instructions. All this worked a treat with no confusion or using the wrong part.
Herb
Herb Adler - 回复
The screw size for those with a screw set is P2.
Gareth Flandro - 回复