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任天堂Switch有两个Joy-Con控制器。这篇指南将会直到你更换Joy-Con手柄的摇杆。更换左Joy-Con摇杆的步骤与右摇杆是不同的,所以请确保你使用的是正确的指南。

请注意这篇指南与左Joy-Con有不同的步骤。如果你想要更换左摇杆,请参考我的另一篇指南。

    • 用Y型螺丝刀移除Joy-Con背部的四颗Y00螺丝。

    • 这四根螺丝有6.2 mm长,但把他们保管好并记住它们所在的孔洞依旧很有必要。

    I found it easier to remove the rubber cover over the joystick before changing it, and to remove it on the replacement before installing it. So that would be step 1 for me next time.

    kmcrawford111 - 回复

    Si tienes cuidado no hay que desconectar nada. Sólo el cable del joystick, evidentemente, todos los demás se pueden dejar conectados, sobre todo el de la batería para que te ayude a probar si todo funciona antes de cerrar y atornillar todo de nuevo.

    Te ahorras 15 minutos y muchas posibilidades de romper cosas.

    Víctor SLB - 回复

  1. 从Joy-Con的下方插入吉他拨片(与R和ZR键相对的那一侧)。 沿着Joy-Con的边缘缓缓移动。 请注意不要将拨片插入得太深。这有可能破坏内部的零件。背板可以很轻易地松开,所以不要用太大的力气。
    • 从Joy-Con的下方插入吉他拨片(与R和ZR键相对的那一侧)。

    • 沿着Joy-Con的边缘缓缓移动。

    • 请注意不要将拨片插入得太深。这有可能破坏内部的零件。背板可以很轻易地松开,所以不要用太大的力气。

  2. 将导轨一侧朝外,像打开书一样打开Joy-Con。 切忌这个时候就把背板完全分离。导轨上仍然有两条排线与主板相连。
    • 将导轨一侧朝外,像打开书一样打开Joy-Con。

    • 切忌这个时候就把背板完全分离。导轨上仍然有两条排线与主板相连。

  3. 用一根撬棒轻轻将电池的接头从插座上分离。这可以保证在拆解过程中Joy-Con并没有带电。 请注意震动马达和红外传感器的接头离电池接头非常近,在断开电池接头的时候请务必小心。
    • 用一根撬棒轻轻将电池的接头从插座上分离。这可以保证在拆解过程中Joy-Con并没有带电。

    • 请注意震动马达和红外传感器的接头离电池接头非常近,在断开电池接头的时候请务必小心。

    Could've done with a narrower spudger for this and on the way back

    James - 回复

    The plug is difficult to get a spudger under and leads to a lot of failed attempts where something could be damaged. I found it comes apart easier if you gently pull the wires with tweezers.

    Robert L - 回复

    Agree. The spudger is too wide for this task. This guide needs to get update with his better approach.

    Nick Cope -

    I damaged this connector while trying to remove by pulling on the wires as suggested. The plastic over the wires broke out. I was able to “repair” it by carefully placing the pins in place without shorting, covering the top (only) of the connector with a little super glue. After curing I placed it over the receptacle as closely as possible with tweezers, and gently pressed in with a pencil eraser tip.

    I like the narrower spudger idea, but have never seen one.

    kmcrawford111 - 回复

    Hey, I was wondering if you damaged the part that attaches to the motherboard because I’ve done that and I’m not sure how to fix it?

    Milli3 -

    Hey so when I did this step it turns out I pulled the entire battery connector out not like the wires or the plug in but the entire connector that connects to the motherboard. I was wondering if anyone knew if it was possible for me to fix this or if I’d have to buy yet another set of joycons :(

    Milli3 - 回复

    Milli, unfortunately repairing that connector is a tough fix unless you’ve got some microsoldering equipment. :( That said! You shouldn’t need to buy a whole other set of Joy-Cons. What you can do is find a replacement motherboard online, or even a cheap used Joy-Con from ebay and replace your motherboard with that one! I’m sorry about your bad luck, I hope this helps!

    Taylor Dixon -

    I have fcuked my entire connector and ruined it. Never pull the battery connector and just make your mods with the battery attached!! Mind the wires, finish your job quickly, and forget about powering off your joycon during teardown..

    Kelvin Susanto - 回复

    Not at all clear from the photo what it is I am pulling off. Need a larger, zoomed-in image.

    danbalzer - 回复

    Maybe add a third photo, showing what the socket looks like once the connector is removed.

    danbalzer -

    Click any photo in this guide to zoom in. Here’s the connector photo.

    Jeff Suovanen -

    Es ist ein Steckkontakt. Sprich: Wenn du es wieder zusammenbaust, musst du das Kabel von oben reindrücken.

    anonymous 5632 - 回复

    Skip this step. It is far too easy to pull off the connector from the motherboard. Ruined the joy of fixing it. There is enough length on the wires to just skip steps 4 (this step), 5, and 6 and jump to 7. It is what it is. I’m mad at myself.

    Fernando Pruneda - 回复

  4. 接下来的两步将会展示如何从中框移除电池和同轴天线线缆。这两步可以使拆解更加简洁,但并不是必要的。如果你并不需要,你可以保持电池和天线不动并跳至步骤7。 在电池和电池仓的缝隙中插入吉他拨片。缓缓抬起电池,保证固定电池的双面胶仍在原处。 请注意不要弄破或弯曲电池,否则会有着火甚至爆炸的危险。
    • 接下来的两步将会展示如何从中框移除电池和同轴天线线缆。这两步可以使拆解更加简洁,但并不是必要的。如果你并不需要,你可以保持电池和天线不动并跳至步骤7

    • 在电池和电池仓的缝隙中插入吉他拨片。缓缓抬起电池,保证固定电池的双面胶仍在原处。

    • 请注意不要弄破或弯曲电池,否则会有着火甚至爆炸的危险。

    I don’t have a pick, just spudgers and blue plastic pry tools. There are gaps on the rail side of the battery where you can very easily get a spudger in and get the battery out.

    Robert L - 回复

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  6. 在你操作这一步之前,请注意天线和PCB的位置以确保随后的组装过程中不会弄错。 小心地抬起天线线缆并将其移出电池仓。
    • 在你操作这一步之前,请注意天线和PCB的位置以确保随后的组装过程中不会弄错。

    • 小心地抬起天线线缆并将其移出电池仓。

  7. 用撬棒的尖端断开主板上天线的同轴线缆接头。 移走灰色的天线线缆。
    • 用撬棒的尖端断开主板上天线的同轴线缆接头

    • 移走灰色的天线线缆。

    • 在组装时,先将天线接头重新插上,再按照原来的样子将天线穿过电池仓并将其固定。

    The antenna cable is very difficult to reconnect so if possible leave the coaxial connector connected

    Ethan Puente - 回复

  8. 移除中框上的三颗3.5 mm飞利浦#00十字螺丝。
    • 移除中框上的三颗3.5 mm飞利浦#00十字螺丝。

    • 现在还不要尝试移除中框!中框底部还有一根非常细的,ZR键的排线与主板相连。

  9. 轻轻翻转中框并将放在一边。 这一步请尽可能不给ZR键的排线施加压力。
    • 轻轻翻转中框并将放在一边。

    • 这一步请尽可能不给ZR键的排线施加压力。

    At this stage, the R button pops off very easily. Almost inevitable. And when it does, you’ll probably lose the spring. Better to carefully take it off yourself and make sure the spring stays with it.

    Athul Acharya - 回复

  10. ZR键的排线被ZIF连接器固定在主板上。用镊子翻开ZIF连接器的锁止机构。 用镊子轻轻将ZR键的排线移出ZIF连接器。到此中框已经可以被移除。 用镊子轻轻将ZR键的排线移出ZIF连接器。到此中框已经可以被移除。
    • ZR键的排线被ZIF连接器固定在主板上。用镊子翻开ZIF连接器的锁止机构。

    • 用镊子轻轻将ZR键的排线移出ZIF连接器。到此中框已经可以被移除。

    Putting this back together was the hardest step

    James - 回复

    Who knows an easy way to put this back in?

    Mr Krabs - 回复

    My children learned to drive, went to college, got married and had children, by the time I got this to reconnect!

    I used the tweezers to carefully grab the end and slide it in. Make sure the lock is up because without the ribbon it falls down really easy.

    The left joy con is easy peasy compared to this one.

    Bethany Shillet - 回复

    This is the worst step

    Devan Miller - 回复

    I think this step should warrant upgrading this from Moderate… I can’t understand why Nintendo decided to put SOO much slack on the left controller and then absolutely no slack on the right…

    errolsayre - 回复

    I wasn’t remotely prepared for how much more difficult this was compared to the left Joy-Con. I ended up ruining the entire unit trying to reinsert the ZR cable into the zif connector.

    Andrew Ellis - 回复

    I found this to be easier than the left joycon, maybe because I did the right joycon first. The cable is very rigid, so I just held the two parts of the joycon together so that the cable was already lined up with the connector. From there, you can make the final adjustment with tweezers, and the cable won’t fight you as much in the process.

    Charlie Lewis - 回复

    maybe I’m being an idiot, but why does this have to be removed? I can get to the stick’s screws etc, and remove it and nothing seems to be in the way, thus making this step seem unnecessary. It was a little tricky to unscrew the joystick once the screws started to loosen, but I just propped the joycon up on my finger. There’s a risk to doing it this way, but then there’s a risk doing it either way, and judging from comments above about how awkward this is, maybe leaving it is best.

    N Carter - 回复

    You’re definitely not being an idiot! It doesn’t technically need to be removed. :) That cable is so fragile though that the risk of leaving it connected with the midframe dangling awkwardly (as we leave it in step 9) seemed greater than the annoyance of disconnecting and reconnecting it. Definitely tricky and risky either way you slice it, though! Either way is a viable option. I’ll add a note to the step!

    Taylor Dixon -

    I think having a clamper that can hold the motherboard and the rest of the body really would help. I didn’t have anything that I could use but I propped it up with two jar lids so that the joystick would not make the whole thing wobble. I grabbed the midframe with one hand and used tweezers in the other hand to guide it in and close it.

    Here’s a picture: https://i.imgur.com/fSEIBqE.jpg

    My R button came off but I put it in before I screwed the midframe in place.

    I hope it helps.

    Kshitij Parajuli - 回复

    This step should say in CAPITALS at the start that this is not strictly necessary, because the connector between the 2 boards is practically impossible to reconnect

    mcsmith1981 - 回复

    Wouldn’t agree with people here - getting the ribbon back in is pretty finicky (much easier if you do it flipped over along the side, not like they have it in the photo), but I don’t see how you could get the joystick out and a new one in without moving it so much that you break it (then you’ve wasted the money on the kit and have to buy a whole new unit).

    I however would agree that you don’t need to disconnect the battery or antenna. I pulled the antenna patch out of the midframe and let it dangle, but left the battery in and connected, and it was fine. Much better than removing them but leaving this fragile thing connected.

    Isaac Woods - 回复

    The grey plastic zif lock came off and I lost it. I replaced pretty much the entire contents of an iPhone 6, but couldn’t do this step. Don’t detach it if you don’t need to!

    Anyone know if I can get another one?!

    Nathan Trevivian - 回复

  11. 摇杆的排线同样被ZIF连接器固定在主板上。用镊子或撬棒掀开ZIF的锁止机构并移走排线。 摇杆的排线同样被ZIF连接器固定在主板上。用镊子或撬棒掀开ZIF的锁止机构并移走排线。 摇杆的排线同样被ZIF连接器固定在主板上。用镊子或撬棒掀开ZIF的锁止机构并移走排线。
    • 摇杆的排线同样被ZIF连接器固定在主板上。用镊子或撬棒掀开ZIF的锁止机构并移走排线。

    Recommend putting a small amount of electrical tape or masking tape on the tweezers to protect the ribbon cable during reinstallation.

    smichaeldavis - 回复

  12. 从摇杆上移除两颗3.5 mm飞利浦#00十字螺丝。
    • 从摇杆上移除两颗3.5 mm飞利浦#00十字螺丝。

    Also do your best not to bump the “R” button as it my fall out and you might break off the solid state device it activates. My device broke off as I was unaware of my hand placement while holding the controller. I recommend others learn from my mistake and hold the controller by the long edge only.

    Edmund Cooper - 回复

  13. 小心地移除摇杆。 在为摇杆开出的洞的周围有一圈密封圈,请在拆除摇杆的时候尽量不要碰到密封圈。
    • 小心地移除摇杆。

    • 在为摇杆开出的洞的周围有一圈密封圈,请在拆除摇杆的时候尽量不要碰到密封圈。

    • 当你换上新的摇杆并组装好Joy-Con后,将它连上Switch并庆祝你的摇杆焕发生机吧!

    The first time I tried to re-seat the new joystick, I had very slightly disturbed the black gasket (it ended up laying “on top” of the nearby wires, rather than underneath). This caused my joystick to register very slightly off-center after re-assembly. Once I took it apart again, gently slipped the gasket back into the right place, then the joystick registered perfectly centered. FYI!

    Geoffrey Potvin - 回复

    I had the same experience as Geoffrey. My joystick was not able to be fully deflected downwards until I opened it back up and re-seated the gasket with the spudger. After reseating I’m also perfectly centered. Thanks for the tip!

    Truman DeYoung - 回复

    Thanks! I had literally the same issue and reading your comments saved me doing this twice!!

    Luis Fernando Mata - 回复

    This is literally my first ever repair and it went really well. Thanks guys. Although I would recommend not removing the zr cable, be gentle and save yourself the hassle of a tricky reconnect.

    Adsta Congrejo - 回复

结论

如需重新组装您的设备,按照指南的相反顺序操作即可。

请将您的电子垃圾送至R2 or e-Stewards certified recycler

修理出现了意外状况?欢迎查看我们有关Joy-Con的问答社区以寻求帮助。

151等其他人完成本指南。

特别感谢这些译者︰

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A good guide though for the antenna instead of disconnecting the cable it would be easier to simply slide out the plate and wire from the side of the battery tray

Tyler Karabin - 回复

Agree with Tyler - no need to disconnect the antenna.

Thanks for the guide!

David K - 回复

The antenna and battery don’t need to be disconnected, you can easily move them out of the way.

When reassembling, reconnecting the ribbon cable for the RL button is fiddly, easier if you can avoid disconnecting it as well. Just rotate the plastic battery plate a quarter turn counterclockwise to get it out of the way and access the analog stick.

You can test the controller immediately after seating the joystick to make sure the ribbon cable is properly connected.

Peter Amstutz - 回复

In agreement with the others, antenna definitely doesn’t need to be removed. Also noticed that the Y000 bit worked a lot better than the Y00 for the outside screws.

Steve Cazier - 回复

Hello I have followed the guide succesfully for the most part, however the joy con doesn’t seem to power up after reconnecting the battery and the anthenna. I even tried swapping the batteries between joy- cons and battery from the right one does work in the left one. The right joy con doesn’t turn on even with the other battery inserted. Any ideas?

kajterman - 回复

If you are able to isolate that the battery from being the source of the issue, it unfortunately may be that the battery connector socket has some damage or was shorted. I recommend inspecting that part closely to see if there is any issue and use compressed air in the relevant area.

Cooper -

I think the issue is elsewhere, since I can’t even connect the joy con physically. The other one does work even when I take out the battery and insert it into the console. This one doesn’t.

kajterman -

I agree, it sounds like it’s not a battery issue. If the right one doesn’t work even when attached to the console there’s probably a shorted or broken connection in the power circuitry of the motherboard.

Andrew Ellis -

Caution: it appears the new joycon have a revised analog stick and the older replacement sticks will Not work. This is from an evening of research and taking apart 5 controllers. Nothing official.

New joycon have an analog stick with an “H" pattern pressed into the metal back of the stick. Older replacement sticks have an “X" imprinted and older joycon look like they have an “#".

It looks like the “#" and the “X" are interchangeable but the cable on the “H" are thinner. So the motherboard won't accept the older thicker style.

I've spent a few hours on this and have broken two replacement sticks finding this out. I haven't found anything official about Nintendo changing the sticks but I guess they eventually would to prevent the drift issue.

Scott Nieman - 回复

sorry, but this doesn’t seem to be the case in my experience. I have just removed a stick from a UK switch that I got on launch day, and this had the H shape on the back. I replaced it with a stick bought the other day off amazon that claims to be ‘new’ design and has a # shape on the back. This is my 1st time doing this but the connectors seem to fit and everything seems to be working. So I don’t know how you can conclusively say H is new and H and # don’t interchange, because in my case that’s not true.

N Carter -

just replaced original joy-cons marked H with replacement joysticks with # and working as they should.

Jacob Croxford -

Just chiming in with a differing experience. I have three left Joy Cons I bought at the end of 2017, one is the original from the Switch, two were bought separately. All three had the H stamped in the back, and all three were compatible with the #-stamped replacement parts I bought from the store here. I should have whipped out my calipers, but the ribbons didn’t feel any thicker.

I’m sure Scott is right: there are probably some early controllers that have a different style of connector, but I don’t believe the stamp shape is a reliable way to determine compatibility.

Scott: I hope you were able to repair your controllers!

Ben Etherington -

a good guide but instead of guiding you through the process of rescrewing and reconnecting everything you just say “yea follow the guide back”. I mean it worked for me but its still better to atleast give some tipps on how for example reconnect the battery, because i personally had the most trouble with it.

Daniel Aldushyn - 回复

Daniel, that is definitely one of the drawbacks of our guides! What specifically did you struggle with while reconnecting the battery? I can add a reminder bullet to that step to help people in the future.

Taylor Dixon -

I agree, pulling out the cables is a lot easier than trying to slide them back in.

N Carter -

Nicely done. Thank you for sharing.

kmcrawford111 - 回复

Fixed my joycon thanks iFixit!!!

Devan Miller - 回复

good guide overall, but I messed up the battery connector socket and now it appears it needs to be soldered back on the board. It would have been great to have a better close up of that since it was unclear to me. Any suggestions on this more in-depth repair?

Nathaniel Wilson - 回复

No problems completing this what so ever. I did opt to not disconnect the battery and antenna. Mostly because I was having issues getting the spudger near the battery connection. Thanks so much for the fantastic guide!

Cameron Sorbie - 回复

hi! i’ve replaced the analog stick on my right joy-con, however, now the stick wont recognize a “click”/R3 input. i don’t know if i screwed it up or how the click is registered electronically. now i cannot calibrate the new stick, or use any R3 function. any ideas? :/

Joseph Leib - 回复

just as a suggestion is there any corrosion where the ribbon cable goes into the board?

Coker Lisonbee -

Thanks for the guide! my only issue which doesn’t pertain to the guide itself but my new stick won’t fully center but I’m also not getting any drift either. Anyway thanks again for the guide, it was really straight forward and easy to understand. (edit: I did also calibrate the stick a few times to center but it still won’t.)

Coker Lisonbee - 回复

I’m glad everything went smoothly for you! If you bought the joystick from us you can contact our customer service team and they’ll send you a replacement.

Taylor Dixon -

Worked great! Had a joystick that was drifting and the new part and guide fixed it perfectly. The one extra note I would make is to watch out for the top spring-loaded button popping out. It came out at step 9 and I was lucky I was able to find the spring. Just something to look out for. Thanks so much for the guide!

Kyle Hatlestad - 回复

A good guide : changed the left and right joy-con with no problems. Just the left button’s spring that decided to pop out. But not a problem (I did not saw it at first).

Fabrice - 回复

Missing from the recommended tools list — jeweler’s glasses! These components are TINY and it was nearly impossible to see what I was poking and pulling at.

danbalzer - 回复

Think I messed the battery part up when reconnecting. Works when attached but shows battery indicator as red and doesn’t work detached ?

M J - 回复

Brilliant. This is literally the first thing I've repaired myself and it went really well. Thank you from a new right to repair fan.

Adsta Congrejo - 回复

Hallo ,

Ich hatte ein fixkit bestellt worin erst ein kaputtes Ersatzteil drinn war, habe aber direkt ein neues bekommen und konnte mein Nintendo jetzt erfolgreich reparieren

LG

Benny - 回复

Hallo Benny,

super, dass alles geklappt hat! Viel Spaß mit deiner Switch.

Viele Grüße!

Fabian Neidhardt -

I bought 2 sticks from ifixit and both looked used and nether fixed the drift in the right joycon and ideas what it could be or do you thing i bought bad sticks

Kristopher Miller - 回复

Took mine apart hoping to find a possible loose connection causing severe battery drain on my Joy-con. Nothing seemed out of place when I put it back together, but now the only button that works on it is the R3!!! Have no idea what I could have messed up, as I did not take the circuit board out at all. It lights up and pairs, but R3 only works, and when I check the calibration, the Joycon is pegged to the bottom right, will not move.

Joshua Bell - 回复

-Update- took back apart, checked ribbon cables, and the arm on the Joystick ribbon cable was not locked, so that is fixed and the buttons work, but now they randomly activate without pressing them, and the SR and SL buttons do not work. I did not try taking out the main circuit board yet, but that is my next idea to reseat the buttons and check for possible broken ribbon cables. It will connect to the Switch, but only if I dock it to it.

Joshua Bell -

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