交换MacBook Pro 13'' Retina显示器2013末期版本的主板

I never, ever, ever considered using anything but the correct tool on the Pentalobe screws. Too easy to strip and void your warranty (if still in effect), as well as make it almost impossible to get inside later for another upgrade or repair. The Wiha P5 Pentalobe screwdriver fits like a glove and costs only about $11 (a fraction of your drive's price)at Amazon.com. Get it!

is P5 supposed to be for all 10 screws? it works on the 2x 2.3mm at the top, but not for the 8x others for me. what size screwdriver for the 3mm? thanks

Yes, the p5 works for all 10 pentalobe screw heads for bottom cover. The the different size mm reference only refers to the difference in length of the screws, but again both heads are p5.

I followed this exactly and was able to replace my broken trackpad. I did not have to replace the ribbon OR the battery. However I would suggest getting the ribbon since it’s fairly cheap, as for the batteries I was able to do it with a card only. I didn’t use any heat or the liquid but it takes some time. You really have to work the card in there to release the glue. Also you must be very careful not to bend the batteries or damage them, if you do you must replace with new. This took me about 1.5hrs and my computer works like new. Apple cost for this job was around $450, I did it for $120. Big ups to ifixit for this awesome tutorial, tool set and parts!

On a side note, only use quality tools, the cheap ones will break or strip the screws.

A good technique for starting to thread the screws when replacing them is to position and align the screw, and with the driver, gently turn the screw in the REMOVAL direction until you feel and hear a slight click. This click happens when the leading thread of the screw drops off of the leading edge of the thread in the hole — this is the point at which the threads are properly positioned for engagement. You can now turn the driver and screw in the TIGHTENING direction. This technique will help prevent accidental “cross-threading” of the screw, which will damage the threads permanently.

Note that this is a useful technique when installing ANY threaded fastener.

Just finished replacing my battery (MacBook Pro 13” early 2015), glad I did, the old ones were noticeably swollen. I was surprised to find the battery at 57% upon completion and charging the new battery. No problems with replacement however, kit arrived without the Pentalobe driver. I got a nice complete kit from Amazon for 20 euro in 2 days. iFixit offered a coupon on any future purchase but right now, I have no plans on needing anything. Nice gesture but would have preferred the driver in the kit in the first place.

Suggest having a small can of compressed air on hand to clean out the interior, after 4 years, mine was quite dirty. Ear buds and alcohol were the best I could do. And a magnetized driver is mandatory I think.

REQUIRED PARTS (SCREWS) TO DO THIS JOB UNAVAILABLE HERE:

If your keyboard is riveted to the chassis as mine is, Late 2013 MBP 13” retina, you need about 100 screws to reattach the new keyboard.

ifixit does not have them. I did just now find them at Beetstech for $4.50 along with a back light $13 for the keyboard in case you want one. It looks like Beetstech is a big competitor of ifixit with an excellent reputation (like ifixit has) too. I just ordered these parts and will not happily be moving forward with my keyboard replacement.

Fun Fact: I got three of the 2,3 mm Pentalopes … ;-)

My PB had eight (8), 2.3 mm screws and two (2), 3.0 mm screws.

Hi peeps,

I have a wifi problem on this MBP 13” early 2015 and was pleasently surprised to find your guide to changing the airport card.

However upon closer inspection it seems that on my MBP (purchased new or so I thought) the 3 antennae seem so have been soldered together at the point where they are clamped to the chassis. I have photos but cannot post here. Can anyone conform that where the 3 antennae wires are held to the chssis by the 2 scew metal support (just before disappearing into the screen hinge), the support is not meant to short the 3 wires together. This makes no sense for 3 seperate antennae wires.

Any advice /close up photos is welcome here.

dom

Tip: Use post-it notes to keep track of screws

1. Pack of post it notes

2. Stick screws to the sticky part of the post it note

3. Write on the post it note which step and what kind of screw it is

Hi, in order to drain the battery I am running:

yes > /dev/null

in 4 terminals, so the CPU maxes out at almost 99%.

I hope this speeds up the battery draining process.

And the backlight is at maximum brightness :-)

You can see the cpu load in Activity Monitor.

Its draining at 20% per 15 minutes.

Any concerns about draining the battery in this way?

Something I’ve been curious about, is it possible to upgrade a late 2013 Retina model MacBook Pro, with the improved 16gb ram and i7 processor logic board from the 2015 retina model? I’d be interested to try but not ready to shell out the $500+ to be the first lol

The batteries of my MBP 13” (early 2015) were distended. due to outgassing. They are 3,5 years old but only had 340 cycles. I suppose that the batteries age faster when your computer is permanently plugged in.

When unscrewing the bottom lid, I didn’t have to exert any force to remove the lid as it already popped loose due to the expanded batteries.

By the way, on my pentalobe bit it reads 1.2 instead of P5.

This takes a bit more effort than you might expect. Put your fingers where shown and lift about 3inches. With enough upwards pressure the plastic holders will “pop free” and the bottom will come off easily.

Agreed. A decent amount of force is required here.

To reattach bottom case I found it helpful to line fingers up with clips under case should snap easily

Easy snapped off for me

Popped off of the bottom case for me. My batteries were dangerously inflated

What is the black vinyl-y sticker on the inside of the case (some sort of shield?). I was forced to slightly puncture it in order to replace the feet on my laptop. Thanks in advance.

When I got the back off, I found this piece loose, any idea what it is? about 9mm long frosted plastic

https://imgur.com/a/tYaxGdG

This wording I found quite confusing. They just mean when putting the lid back on that you just removed in the previous step, push here.

I took my pointer and thumb (which are luckily long enough) to feel where the studs are on the back panel, and then as I put the back panel back on, I pushed in the spot I had marked with my fingers to ensure I was applying pressure only on this part.

Can you make a youtube video showing the steps? I am not sure how to proceed with this step. I want to see it done.

Thanks.

Do you know where I can purchase this plastic cover? Mine is missing and no one will work on my computer without it.

My new battery kit included a replacement for this part, so, no need to save the old one.

The aux in my mac works 1 out of 10 times , Is this relevant to me in order to solve the proplem ? I cant see aux input on the io board ?

A plastic foam cover also covers plug and socket and the whole battery. It is easy to remove it from the right side to the trackpad wire that the battery plug is free like shown in the picture. I kept it to use it again later.

Removing the battery connector took a bit of finagling. It wasn’t as easy as one would think. Be very careful when doing this as they warn to not damage it. Otherwise great instructions!!!!

I have verified I have this battery, and I have a mid-2014 macbook retina. And I swear i do not see this battery connector. I didn’t take the cover off, per other comments that said it was an unnecessary risk. What the heck? will I not see the battery cable without taking of that cover?

How can i post a photo of what I am seeing …I don’t see the battery connector! not like in photo above. maybe I have to remove that plastic cover although others recommended not doing that (see above).

ooops nevermind..I see it now! tks . But..there is SO much gunk/dust under there (old, hand me down, used by my teen daughter while eating in bed no doubt!) . Should I attempt to clean? Beyond just blowing on it? Is compressed air safe? Or should I just leave it be? Assuming I don’t break it while replacing this battery I’d like not to break it otherwise! tks

Lift from the long, flat side, not the shorter side. In this picture, you should lift from the NORTH part of the connector, not the WEST side like they are doing. This is because you can spread the pressure from lifting the connector across more area, as compared to the side. I accidentally broke off part of my battery connector lifting it up the way shown, but was able to do it the way I described without problem. Make sure to lift from the wide part so you don’t have my same trouble!

I put a small piece of blue painters tape on the battery connector contacts to prevent it from accidentally making a connection and shorting. This helped keep things a bit more protected.

That’s a great idea!

I used a small piece of paper to prevent the connector from connecting, no need to wrestle with even low-stick adhesive.

I replaced both my L and R speakers on my MBP mid-2014 13” withOUT doing this step.

I agree that inserting a small paper above between the socket and the connector was useful. I used post-it-note, but kept the adhesive away from the socket.

For reassembly, I found it easier to loosen the lone top left 2.4 mm Phillips #000 before putting the fan bumper back in.

I don’t think you need to remove the heat sink for this

How should I reapply those little foam stickers? I guess not with normal glue.

I found that the adhesive came up with the foam except for one screw. The adhesive just stuck to the head of the screw so I left it intact as much as possible and just pressed the foam back on. It doesn’t take much to keep them in place.

If the new Logc Board coms with a heat sink attached, It is not necessary to remove the old one. Just unscrew the screw in the left corner of the heat sink and screws of the fan as well.

The cross-head screwdriver bit was not the #000, the #00 was the right one.

I bought all the tools necessary from iFixit except for the cleaning solutions for this step. You can just use isopropyl alcohol with a microfiber cloth to clean the thermal paste off before re-applying a new coat.

I found this to be the most difficult step. There is a need to get positioned so that you have the leverage to push hard enough at exactly the point shown in the photo without risking slipping and perhaps damaging the CPU nearby

Very helpful tip from Tony.

I used two tools simultaneously. A spudger and a pic like spudger to walk it out.

Man muss den Stecker aus der Steckverbindung herausschieben, und nicht darauf drücken . In der englischsprachigen Anleitung steht auch push und nicht etwa press…

There are 2 black tabs either side - force them towards the back of the back of computer. It seemed to pop out super easily just doing it gently.

This step is very difficult. With care it could be omitted. After detach the cable from the glue on the back cover of fan, there is enough clearance to take the fan assembly out with a little pivoting, just be careful and don’t put too much stress on the table where it make a 90 downward turn to the connector. Reinstalling is just reverse and doable as well.

After readying all, trying Josh’s tip with no joy, I found that two nice sized fingernails made this easy x 2! Just push on each little indent simultaneously.

my cable was glued, had to be pryed up first.

I found it a bit difficult to know exactly when the new one is back in position.

When reinstalling, do the screw closest to the front of the computer first.

Make sure to put the end furthest away from the hinge under the ribbon cable first.

Then place the hinge side. The screw furthest away from the hinge is partially obscured by the ribbon cable.

If not placed correctly, ribbon cable damage may result.

Having a hard time at this step. Any suggestions? it's just not walking out.

Use your fingernails to pinch the sides of the clip inwards to release the connector. I couldn’t walk it out either, both sides needed to be pushed in simultaneously to pull it out of the socket.

Do not pull from the cables end. you will risk separating thin cables from connector head. Use spudger tip to push it out.

It looks like this picture is not a 820-4924-A motherboard (A1502 2015 13in. MBPr). It must come from a previous version of Macbook pros. Don’t panic if the RAM chips on the top right corner do not look exactly the same on your board and on this picture.