简介
用这条指导来交换你那出了问题的主板。
在你重新安装散热铁之前,不要忘了依照我们的涂散热膏指导来涂散热膏。
工具
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拆下以下10个固定在上壳体上的螺丝
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两个 2.3毫米 的梅花五角螺丝
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八个 3.0毫米 的梅花五角螺丝
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把你的手指放在上下壳体中间
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轻轻地把上下壳体拉开
Agreed. A decent amount of force is required here.
To reattach bottom case I found it helpful to line fingers up with clips under case should snap easily
Easy snapped off for me
Popped off of the bottom case for me. My batteries were dangerously inflated
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What is the black vinyl-y sticker on the inside of the case (some sort of shield?). I was forced to slightly puncture it in order to replace the feet on my laptop. Thanks in advance.
When I got the back off, I found this piece loose, any idea what it is? about 9mm long frosted plastic
I took my pointer and thumb (which are luckily long enough) to feel where the studs are on the back panel, and then as I put the back panel back on, I pushed in the spot I had marked with my fingers to ensure I was applying pressure only on this part.
Can you make a youtube video showing the steps? I am not sure how to proceed with this step. I want to see it done.
Thanks.
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My new battery kit included a replacement for this part, so, no need to save the old one.
The aux in my mac works 1 out of 10 times , Is this relevant to me in order to solve the proplem ? I cant see aux input on the io board ?
A plastic foam cover also covers plug and socket and the whole battery. It is easy to remove it from the right side to the trackpad wire that the battery plug is free like shown in the picture. I kept it to use it again later.
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用撬棒的平端,将电池连接器从主板插座上直着往上撬起。
I have a friends MacBook Pro that has some water damage that caused the MacBook not to be able to use battery power, but still work when plugged into A/C. Upon further inspection I can see visible corrosion on a few of the 9 cables going from the battery connector to that small circuit board. Is it possible to just replace that circuit board?
I have the some problem. I was thinking to replace the whole battery but I am not it will solve the problem. Any suggestions?
Sometimes it can be enough to just clean the contacts without having to replace the entire board. Dosent work for complicated IC's like plcc type, where corrosion is underneath the chip. Here you will have to reheat and reapply the IC.
Hi,have you find the solution for your battery? I also have same problem, run with plugs but it battery not supporting… as soon the plug of it goes off
Have either of you replaced the battery and/or circuit board to fix the MacBooks with the water damage ? I have the same problem with the MacBook working fine when connected to power but dying immediately when the power cord is removed.
Hi, Steve. I had the same problem: Macbook Pro 15 retina with coffee damage. And it worked fine when connected to power. I made it working after replacing the whole battery. It seems that circuit connected to the battery becomes disabled to prevent short circuit.
When placing the battery connector back into the socket on the logic board, check that every part of connector is pressed down. You should hear a soft click when it's back in place.
Thanks for the comment. My MBP isn’t powering on after I walked through these steps, and I assume it is because the battery connector isn’t fully connected. (I can’t check yet since I borrowed the pentalobe screwdriver)
+1
I thought I made sure it was connected but when running the computer it only detected the battery but couldn’t power it. I had to run with power adapter. Also it didn’t charge. I guess some pins were connected but not all. To verify that all were connected I removed the plastic cover, placed it carefully completely flat, and then reattached the plastic cover. After that it worked!
If I only want to replace the trackpad cable, then which steps should I skip? This step seems unnecessary
This step is not unnecessary because you need to remove the battery before you can replace the trackpad
I replaced both my L and R speakers on my MBP mid-2014 13” withOUT doing this step.
I did the same thing, probably unnecessary to disconnect the battery. I’m not a technician however.
ooops nevermind..I see it now! tks . But..there is SO much gunk/dust under there (old, hand me down, used by my teen daughter while eating in bed no doubt!) . Should I attempt to clean? Beyond just blowing on it? Is compressed air safe? Or should I just leave it be? Assuming I don’t break it while replacing this battery I’d like not to break it otherwise! tks
Lift from the long, flat side, not the shorter side. In this picture, you should lift from the NORTH part of the connector, not the WEST side like they are doing. This is because you can spread the pressure from lifting the connector across more area, as compared to the side. I accidentally broke off part of my battery connector lifting it up the way shown, but was able to do it the way I described without problem. Make sure to lift from the wide part so you don’t have my same trouble!
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If you miss or let this step for later like I did, the power left in the battery even though the computer is completely shut down, will screw up the I/O board cable like I did. I noticed this after I put all the pieces back, turn the computer on and surprise, no wifi hardware is detected. -.-
Not sure I understand: did leaving the battery plugged in permanently broke the I/O board (or anything else)?
Adrien -
That’s a great idea!
I replaced both my L and R speakers on my MBP mid-2014 13” withOUT doing this step.
I agree that inserting a small paper above between the socket and the connector was useful. I used post-it-note, but kept the adhesive away from the socket.
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用撬棒的平头挑开散热铁螺丝上的4块泡沫粘合剂。
How should I reapply those little foam stickers? I guess not with normal glue.
I found that the adhesive came up with the foam except for one screw. The adhesive just stuck to the head of the screw so I left it intact as much as possible and just pressed the foam back on. It doesn’t take much to keep them in place.
If the new Logc Board coms with a heat sink attached, It is not necessary to remove the old one. Just unscrew the screw in the left corner of the heat sink and screws of the fan as well.
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拆掉下列将散热铁固定在主板上的螺丝:
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4颗2.6mm T5螺丝
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1颗2.4mm 飞利浦#000螺丝
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从笔记本上拆除散热铁。
I bought all the tools necessary from iFixit except for the cleaning solutions for this step. You can just use isopropyl alcohol with a microfiber cloth to clean the thermal paste off before re-applying a new coat.
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用撬棒的尖头推iSight摄像头排线接口的两端,使其退出主板上的插槽。
Very helpful tip from Tony.
This step is very difficult. With care it could be omitted. After detach the cable from the glue on the back cover of fan, there is enough clearance to take the fan assembly out with a little pivoting, just be careful and don’t put too much stress on the table where it make a 90 downward turn to the connector. Reinstalling is just reverse and doable as well.
Xiaokun Xu - 回复
After readying all, trying Josh’s tip with no joy, I found that two nice sized fingernails made this easy x 2! Just push on each little indent simultaneously.
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拆掉下列将风扇固定在上部机身上的螺丝。
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1颗5.0mm T5 内梅花头螺丝。
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2颗3.6mm T5 内梅花头螺丝。
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举起风扇最靠近显示器合叶的一边并把风扇从上部机身上取走。
Um, this guide should include steps for applying thermal paste, including instructions to clean the mating surfaces, and pictures showing how much thermal paste to use.
Hi @theirongiant, there are generic thermal paste application instructions linked in the introduction “Don't forget to follow our thermal paste application guide before you reinstall your heat sink.”
Make sure to put the end furthest away from the hinge under the ribbon cable first.
Then place the hinge side. The screw furthest away from the hinge is partially obscured by the ribbon cable.
If not placed correctly, ribbon cable damage may result.
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用撬棒的尖头推I/O板接头,使其退出它在主板上的插槽。
Use your fingernails to pinch the sides of the clip inwards to release the connector. I couldn’t walk it out either, both sides needed to be pushed in simultaneously to pull it out of the socket.
maccentric - 回复
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拆除这个将SSD固定在主板上的单独的2.9mm T5内梅花头螺丝。
It looks like this picture is not a 820-4924-A motherboard (A1502 2015 13in. MBPr). It must come from a previous version of Macbook pros. Don’t panic if the RAM chips on the top right corner do not look exactly the same on your board and on this picture.
Alex AVRON - 回复
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若要重新组装你的设备,以逆序方式执行这些说明。
若要重新组装你的设备,以逆序方式执行这些说明。
66等其他人完成本指南。
特别感谢这些译者︰
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8条评论
This guide helped me repair my MacBook Pro with no prior knowledge of working on computers. I purchased a new logic board after mine broke from eBay, from a seller named L2 Computer Inc. and followed this guide using the iFixit pro tech tool kit and their thermal compound application set to reinstall the heat sink, and my computer turned on right away. Everything was so easy using this guide. The pictures are so good at showing how to do the steps, and the tool kit had really nice tools which made the whole process very simple. I am so thankful that you all help people fix their computers. It could not have been easier with this guide. It’s very well-written.
Great guide. Had issues with my Late 2013 MBP and narrowed it down to the logic board. I replaced it with a Mid-2014 MBP logic board as they are interchangeable thanks to this detailed guide. Laptop now fixed and upgraded!
I can’t say enough about how well done this guide is for replacing a late 2013 MacBook logic board. The step by step with pictures were professional and spot on. I had a 4GB, i5 that had got to the point where I had to keep using a memory app to free up memory every couple minutes. Not being able to upgrade memory I was left with little options other than to buy a new one. After finding this site, I got a new logic board with i7 and 16GB of memory, I was able to turn my crippling MacBook back into a robust laptop I can once again enjoy using hopefully for at least a few more years. Bought the tools on here to complete the replacement and everything went without a hitch.
So a BIG thank you, thank you, thank you.. Keep up the great work on this site.. I know I’ll be back to check in on what’s available and when I have something else that needs to be fixed/upgraded vs buying new. :)
Boston222
@boston222 I am in a similar situation where my 4GB memory is killing me. Would you be able to let me know where you got your i7 with 16GB of memory? I have been looking but I cannot find an i7 .. all I find is i5 with 16GB of memory .. I would appreciate if you could provide a website or model number of the item you ordered so I could get the same one.
Thanks in advance!
Hari -
After replacing the Logic Board, is there any other steps afterwards with programing? After I replaced the board, the flashing question mark comes up. When I go into Disk Utility the HD is not showing up. If anyone has any input I would appreciate the help.
i have same problem did you solve it?
After replacing my logic board, it worked for a while then I started getting crashes followed by three beeps on boot up. Anyone got any ideas? I want back over and checked that all connectors were ok. Have I purchased a dodgy logic board from eBay?
For all the screws you use the P5 pentalobe screwdriver?
Carlos - 回复
Pentalobe is only for the screws on the bottom cover. The Torx screw driver is for the remainder.
Fredrik -
Is the Pentalobe screwdriver mentioned in the tools list? I did not have one so I used a filed down flat blade screwdriver. Not a fantastic idea, but it works.
Alex Birkett - 回复
Yes, it's mentioned on the top of this page. P5 Pentalobe to be precise. I didn't have one either, so I bought one from iFixit and that works fantastic. An absolutely precise fit, which is important especially when you might open your MacBook a couple of times during the years you own it. Not using the correct tool might do more harm to the screws than you want! I once had this with a Lenovo Yoga 3 Pro, which has Torx screws (T4 I think) and I used cheap Chinese quality tools, with the result that both the tool and one of the screws are damaged.
addvariety -
I never, ever, ever considered using anything but the correct tool on the Pentalobe screws. Too easy to strip and void your warranty (if still in effect), as well as make it almost impossible to get inside later for another upgrade or repair. The Wiha P5 Pentalobe screwdriver fits like a glove and costs only about $11 (a fraction of your drive's price)at Amazon.com. Get it!
marketing - 回复
is P5 supposed to be for all 10 screws? it works on the 2x 2.3mm at the top, but not for the 8x others for me. what size screwdriver for the 3mm? thanks
monsieurescargot - 回复
Yes, the p5 works for all 10 pentalobe screw heads for bottom cover. The the different size mm reference only refers to the difference in length of the screws, but again both heads are p5.
Antoine Thornton - 回复
I followed this exactly and was able to replace my broken trackpad. I did not have to replace the ribbon OR the battery. However I would suggest getting the ribbon since it’s fairly cheap, as for the batteries I was able to do it with a card only. I didn’t use any heat or the liquid but it takes some time. You really have to work the card in there to release the glue. Also you must be very careful not to bend the batteries or damage them, if you do you must replace with new. This took me about 1.5hrs and my computer works like new. Apple cost for this job was around $450, I did it for $120. Big ups to ifixit for this awesome tutorial, tool set and parts!
On a side note, only use quality tools, the cheap ones will break or strip the screws.
Dustin Steward - 回复
Note that the eight 3mm screws have a shoulder under the head, while the two 2.3mm screws are “full thread”, i.e., there is no shoulder under their heads. It’s important to put the two screws with no shoulder at the hinge of the cover.
All ten screws require a P5 Pentalobe screwdriver, preferably with a magnetized tip to help hold and position the screw.
All of the screws have blue “Loctite” thread locker compound on their threads. This is to help prevent the screws from working loose and falling out. Don’t attempt to clean the Loctite from the screws — leave it in place, and it will continue to help prevent the re-inserted screws from working loose.
When replacing the bottom cover, it is a good technique to insert and BEGIN tightening all ten screws BEFORE fully tightening any one screw. After all the screws have been started, then go around and finish tightening all of them. By doing this, you make it easier to feel that each screw has been started properly, and is not “cross-threaded”.
doubleclutch - 回复
This is what I found on my MBP mid-2014 13” Retina. All 10 used the same screwdriver. I didn’t see the blue “loctite” but I also got my computer refurbished.
Evan Shulman -
A good technique for starting to thread the screws when replacing them is to position and align the screw, and with the driver, gently turn the screw in the REMOVAL direction until you feel and hear a slight click. This click happens when the leading thread of the screw drops off of the leading edge of the thread in the hole — this is the point at which the threads are properly positioned for engagement. You can now turn the driver and screw in the TIGHTENING direction. This technique will help prevent accidental “cross-threading” of the screw, which will damage the threads permanently.
Note that this is a useful technique when installing ANY threaded fastener.
doubleclutch - 回复
Just finished replacing my battery (MacBook Pro 13” early 2015), glad I did, the old ones were noticeably swollen. I was surprised to find the battery at 57% upon completion and charging the new battery. No problems with replacement however, kit arrived without the Pentalobe driver. I got a nice complete kit from Amazon for 20 euro in 2 days. iFixit offered a coupon on any future purchase but right now, I have no plans on needing anything. Nice gesture but would have preferred the driver in the kit in the first place.
Suggest having a small can of compressed air on hand to clean out the interior, after 4 years, mine was quite dirty. Ear buds and alcohol were the best I could do. And a magnetized driver is mandatory I think.
D M - 回复
REQUIRED PARTS (SCREWS) TO DO THIS JOB UNAVAILABLE HERE:
If your keyboard is riveted to the chassis as mine is, Late 2013 MBP 13” retina, you need about 100 screws to reattach the new keyboard.
ifixit does not have them. I did just now find them at Beetstech for $4.50 along with a back light $13 for the keyboard in case you want one. It looks like Beetstech is a big competitor of ifixit with an excellent reputation (like ifixit has) too. I just ordered these parts and will not happily be moving forward with my keyboard replacement.
Timothy Hardman - 回复
Fun Fact: I got three of the 2,3 mm Pentalopes … ;-)
Paco Demant - 回复
My PB had eight (8), 2.3 mm screws and two (2), 3.0 mm screws.
ellamama - 回复
Hi peeps,
I have a wifi problem on this MBP 13” early 2015 and was pleasently surprised to find your guide to changing the airport card.
However upon closer inspection it seems that on my MBP (purchased new or so I thought) the 3 antennae seem so have been soldered together at the point where they are clamped to the chassis. I have photos but cannot post here. Can anyone conform that where the 3 antennae wires are held to the chssis by the 2 scew metal support (just before disappearing into the screen hinge), the support is not meant to short the 3 wires together. This makes no sense for 3 seperate antennae wires.
Any advice /close up photos is welcome here.
dom
colonel mustard - 回复
Tip: Use post-it notes to keep track of screws
1. Pack of post it notes
2. Stick screws to the sticky part of the post it note
3. Write on the post it note which step and what kind of screw it is
ibash - 回复
Hi, in order to drain the battery I am running:
yes > /dev/null
in 4 terminals, so the CPU maxes out at almost 99%.
I hope this speeds up the battery draining process.
And the backlight is at maximum brightness :-)
You can see the cpu load in Activity Monitor.
Its draining at 20% per 15 minutes.
Any concerns about draining the battery in this way?
Andre van der Ham - 回复
Something I’ve been curious about, is it possible to upgrade a late 2013 Retina model MacBook Pro, with the improved 16gb ram and i7 processor logic board from the 2015 retina model? I’d be interested to try but not ready to shell out the $500+ to be the first lol
Chat Dawgie - 回复
The batteries of my MBP 13” (early 2015) were distended. due to outgassing. They are 3,5 years old but only had 340 cycles. I suppose that the batteries age faster when your computer is permanently plugged in.
When unscrewing the bottom lid, I didn’t have to exert any force to remove the lid as it already popped loose due to the expanded batteries.
Olivier Biot - 回复
By the way, on my pentalobe bit it reads 1.2 instead of P5.
Olivier Biot - 回复