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A1708/EMC 3164—于2017年6月上市,这台入门级MacBook Pro保留了它的传统功能键(相对于OLED触控条)。

MacBook Pro 2017 A1708 – Backlight Not Working, Diagnostics Stuck on A

My MacBook Pro 2017 (Model A1708) has a failed built-in display backlight. The screen is only visible using a flashlight, but the laptop works fine when connected to an external monitor.

I’ve already tried SMC and NVRAM resets with no improvement.

When I disconnect the external display and attempt to run Apple Diagnostics, the built-in screen shows the Apple logo (only visible with a flashlight), but it freezes there and diagnostics never begin.

Does anyone know how to successfully run diagnostics in this situation, or at least identify the hardware issue? Local repairs are extremely expensive, so any tips, workarounds, or experience would be greatly appreciated.

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Sadly, this series had an issue with the backlight ribbon cable being slightly to short so the stress caused the copper traces within the ribbon to break.

While some techs have managed to replace the cable with a third party replacement it's not easy! Some have soldered jumpers which sadly don't hold up. That leaves the only proper way in replacing the display assembly which is quite expensive. If you had encountered this a few years ago Apple did offer free extended warranty, sadly the has expired.

Here's a backgrounder on the failure we wrote Apple Finally Addresses Flexgate with New MacBook Pro Repair Program

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Thanks for the reply! I’m a bit suspicious about it being Flexgate. It might be, but usually with Flexgate there’s some stage lighting effect or partial brightness at the bottom of the screen. In my case, the display is completely dark, no light at all and only visible when I shine a flashlight directly on it.

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@cereno Sometimes, but not always. If you just open the screen a little bit, like the least you can do for the screen to kick on, do you get backlight then?

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@cereno - FlexGate starts off with the stage light effect where every other LED along the string of three interwoven fails to light, then two and then finally all three fail, it can also be the common return so all wink-out at once.

As Alisha commented on sometimes the lines can briefly connect back up if you open the lid slightly. The fact you are able to see the faint images on your internal points to the backlight logic.

Both the LED backlight its self and the possibility of the Buck converter which powers the backlight, while I've encountered both most of the time it's been the ribbon. If you have a good DVM you could try checking the backlight power lines to see if you even have voltage present.

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