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13 英寸 MacBook Pro 于 2020 年 11 月发布，配备 Apple 基于 Arm 的 M1 SoC，具有 8 核 CPU 和 8 核 GPU。（型号 A2338 / EMC 3578，带有两个 Thunderbolt 3 端口）

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Battery replacement questions: to fix or to replace and with what

I have an almost new M1 MBP A2338 that has a dead battery. It laid unused for more than a year and won't charge. Works on power adapter though.

1) Battery PCB has a current sensor shorted to ground. Will later inject to see if anything gets hot - any ideas are welcome.

2) If I decide to replace a battery with a new one from iFixit - do I get any software issues? Like failure to check battery health, genuine parts verification or other things iPhone is famous for? Or is it a drop-in replacement without any locks, limitations and warning messages?

Update (02/02/25)

So I did open all that and fixed it. Even more so - I'am writing this from that exact MacBook 💻.

The battery it originally had died due to not being used. Somehow BQ chip in it got shorted which has been discovered when I did remove the conformal coating and inspect the battery.

I bought an original battery from a dead laptop of the same model and installed it but had some more adventures down the road. First, battery power cable got snapped in half - got it resoldered.

Second - somehow tiny battery data cable got broken during disassembly. It took quite a while for a part to arrive, but luckily it all turned out pretty well.

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Forget about injecting power into the system beyond the USB-C or MagSafe port which you state the system is working so just replace the battery.

As for software, there is nothing needed, but depending on the OS release your system is running you might get a response the battery is not original. Apple in the newer releases took the warning away as it was seen as an anti-repair move by them.

Here’s the needed park and guide:

Replace a battery compatible with MacBook Pro 13" (A2159, A2289, A2338). 58.2 Watt Hours (Wh), 11.41 Volts (V).图片

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MacBook Pro 13" (A2159, A2289, A2338) Battery

$99.99

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Thanks a lot, it’ll run the latest macOS Sequoia.

As for injecting - I mean doing it while battery is disconnected from the laptop, so I’d only diagnose the battery pcb.

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@insympathy - not much to fix within the battery it’s self. A failed sensor is often inside the cell wrappings.

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Definitely not the case here - it has a separate PCB where current sensor is shorted to ground for some reason :)

由完成的

Also if I charge battery directly while it’s disconnected from the laptop - it takes around 0,7A and has charged from 4,1V to 10,6V, so the battery itself seems to be working. I checked a fuse on the other side of the board - it’s intact. I wonder if that’s the BQ chip causing issues. Would be much easier if all of the parts weren’t covered with some protective coating

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@insympathy - The sensor is not within the cells them selves, if that is what you are thinking. The sensor is just mounted within the black covering over the cells. Are you sure you have ID’d the thermal sensor not something else?the logic board where the electrical contacts are doesn’t have the microcontroller that’s also within the cell wrappings is that the PCB you are working with here?

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