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Repair and information guide for the GE Refrigerator GSH25JGB****, a side-by-side fridge with an automatic defrost system, introduced in 2011. This page covers information for model numbers matching the pattern GSH25JGB****.

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GE Refrigerator Evaporator Frozen - Temps High (pics)

GE FRIDGE: GSH25JGBBBB

https://www.geapplianceparts.com/store/p...

Came back from a 10 day vacation and noticed the Freezer temp was in the 20’s/fridge 50’s (should be 0F and 37F). Before I left for vacation I turned off the water to the house and put the AC on 75, could doing either of these caused this or just a coincidence? I ask because I’m going out of town again in a two weeks.

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I’m guessing this is the issue? The evaporator is totally frozen solid.

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Any help on what I should try first to fix this? I read it could be the defrost heater, defrost thermostat, or defrost control. Should I buy all 3 or rule them out 1 by 1? Or just hire someone? Honestly don’t want to deal with this if it will only cost a couple hundred bucks to fix.

Update (07/17/2021)

Here’s my Defrost Heater Assembly :

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Oh yes... that appears to be quite toast. That combined with an open reading across... replace that and you should be golden. Please let me know how it works after replacing it.

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Sure thing, I went ahead and got a new Temperature Sensor WR55X10025 as well since it was only $15, both should arrive tomorrow so here's hoping. For anyone that comes across this I found the cheapest prices at Sears PartsDirect, the Defrost Heater Assembly was $20 cheaper than any other website.

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I installed the Defrost Heater Assembly on Thursday and everything seems to be working fine. The freezer and fridge will jump up or down by 1 degree sometimes but they mainly stick around the temps I set, maybe the change in temps is normal if it's going through a cycle. I'm gonna assume (and pray lol) this issue is fixed, thanks for all the comments!

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I wouldn't jump to the controller just yet. Is an expensive part. I would check the others first. You'll have to get in there, and find your defrost heater. Disconnect both sides of if, and check continuity across it. If that is there, everything i have found on this model says it will most likely be the temp sensor. Now, it COULD be that your evap fan has stopped working. You'll want to double check and makemsure the fan runs.

As for turning the water off and.setting the ac to 75, no. That had nothing to do with this and is just a coincidence. Those two things will not affect the operation of the fridge. Unless you set the temp much higher. But you didn't so you should be fine.

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Thanks for the quick reply. The fan above the evaporator behind that encasing is running so I'm assuming that's the one you mean. I have the fridge unplugged now so the ice can thaw, I'll run a test on the defrost heater when I get a meter.

If it's the temp sensor (https://www.repairclinic.com/PartDetail/...) would I need to replace both the freezer and fridge sensors? Since both sides are showing high temps?

I don't understand how a Thermistor could cause the evaporator to freeze up completely if it's just a sensor that sends the temp out, but I'm not knowledgeable about these things at all so learning as I go.

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There should be one monitoring the evap temp.

https://www.appliancepartspros.com/repai...

If the fan is running that's a good start. We've eliminated that as a possible cause. You can actually accelerate the defrosting if you'd like by using a hair dryer. I normally use the Klein meters available at home depot. The one I get is ~$60-70 is multifunction and has an 'amp clamp for checking amperage. Was hoping to find something on how to tell it to defrost but not really having luck on that. But a continuity check would be a good place to start. I don't have the specs for the thermistor and what it should read at what temp. So checking that is harder. And you shouldn't have to replace both. The one in the fridge compartment isn't controlling defrost at all.

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@nate82

Here's the mini manual for the refrigerator.

It has the wiring diagram which is useful and also the specifications so that you can test the thermistors (sensors) and also the defrost heater's (21Ω) resistance values.

The thermistors are a NTC (negative temperature coefficient) resistor which means that as the temperature increases their resistance decreases which can make it difficult to know whether they're OK or not as you have to know what the ambient temp of the thermistor is at the time that your measuring them to see if they're sort of within specs. The manual only gives two resistance values at certain temps so if the temp is in between then you may have to remove them and place in ice in a glass (no water, just ice) to check what it is at the cold temp or let them warm up to room temp. Use a thermometer as well.

e.g. freezer thermistor (FZ) = 42.5KΩ @ 0°F (-18°C ) fridge thermistor (FR) = 14KΩ @ 37°F (3°C)

At 77°F (25°C) - ambient room temp - they both should read 4.92KΩ

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@brandon_k I just got back from Lowe's, bought a $20 Kobalt mini multimeter and the Defrost Heater Assembly isn't reading any continuity, I'm gonna assume that's the issue https://www.repairclinic.com/PartDetail/...

I'm not sure how they're supposed to look new but mine looks burned out like a light bulb looks when it burns out, sort of corrosive on the ends and the glass is foggy (I'll add a pic in an answer)

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@nate82 if you checked across the heating element and got no continuity (or OL) on the meter, then yes that appears to be the problem.

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