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Hotel Chocolat Velvetiser Repair?

Has anyone disassembled a Hotel Chocolat Velvetiser? Mine has broken; I am getting a replacement and I have been asked to throw (responsibly - https://www.dualit.com/weee-policy) the non-working one away and I thought I would try to fix it anyway.

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Hi, my partner has just blown hers up with as it had got wet on the inside and didnt allow me strip it down and dry it off.

Have you still got this old unit, i would be interested in the values of a couple of the resistors that have blown up on ours and am unable to get the values of them.

Regards

Ray

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I will have a look - post a photo of what you need.

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me too. it must be a common fault as two resistors close to the black capacitor have overheated. I know they will be available but cant see the values as theyre sizzled. Do you still have any pics of that part of the circuit board?

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I found the details here on this repair guide https://helpfulcolin.com/repaired-dualit... the PCB pic is here in response to a comment of someone asking for the resistor values.

https://helpfulcolin.com/wp-content/uplo...

As Dualit make the velvetiser, this board is identical, from wording on velvetiser it looks like they have a slightly different firmware which controls speeds and temperatures differently.

I replaced my resistors and fuse and it blew again straight away, I suspect the MOSFET has gone as well.

I bought a cheap Dualit to take the PCB out of to put in the velevtiser, but in the end the other half said to just leave it and to use the Dualit.

To be honest I prefer the look and the features of the Dualit to the velvetiser.

Regards

Ray

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Can i buy a frothier for my velvateer?

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For anyone who might find it helpful, I’ve just successfully repaired the board in my Velvetiser after it became unresponsive. I thought the last hot chocolate it made wasn’t as hot as usual, but it was only the next time I tried to use it I realised it was dead!

In my case, the SR2100 (Schottky diode) had failed short. It’s the one right on the edge of the board, nestled between the yellow transformer and the white connector for the temperature sensor. I replaced it with an SR5100 which is rated for 5A instead of 2A. The only downside is that the leads on the 5100 are too thick to go through the holes, but I successfully soldered it in place with one leg attached to the positive leg of the adjacent capacitor and the other side soldered to the surface of the pad with a bit of a blob.

I also replaced the smaller of the two IC chips (the SMD one), which is a ULN2001 MOSFET package. I’m not 100% sure, but I suspect I destroyed this myself during testing. It is used for switching of the 12V motor and the heater relay. The larger of the two ICs is the microcontroller.

If you have a bench power supply, 12V can be injected across the large green capacitor which is in the same area as the other components in question. This is much safer than reconnecting the board to the mains for testing and also means the heater will not receive power, just the relay. If everything is working correctly after repair and the button is pressed while injecting 12V, the LED should light up, the motor should turn, and the heater relay should click, but the heater should not get hot until the unit is connected back up to the mains.

I hope someone finds this useful and it can help prevent some e-waste! It’s also worth noting that the user manual for the Velvetiser states that the unit should not be left permanently connected to the mains, I suspect this is why!

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@harrymacar60533 that is awesome! Any chance you have enough images to produce a quick and dirty guide of sorts? That will help the next person that has the same problem as you do. It's easy and fun to create these guides. https://ifixit.com/Guide/new The iFixit community will appreciate this.

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@oldturkey03 Thanks for the feedback! That does sound like fun, it would by no means be a complete guide, but I suppose I could state that in the guide and at least people would have something rather than nothing! I’ve seen someone else mention an inductor which failed in their unit, so I could add that as a check item too. I managed to figure out what voltages should be present too, so if I indicate the test points, hopefully that alone might even be enough for some people!

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@harrymacar60533 even if it is incomplete for now, it could prove so useful. You know what is important to us, is to empower people to fix their own device. This will decrease stress on our environment, decreases the waste of valuable resources and safe people from having to spend money on new stuff.

Repair is War on Entropy!

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I have since found that the Dualit DMF2 is really the same machine, same electronics, maybe a tweak to software based on the “calibration” Hotel Chocolat say they have done.

Found a teardown and repair of that which had what I wanted https://helpfulcolin.com/repaired-dualit...

If you are looking to fix your this Dualit model is half the price of the velvetiser.

Regards

Ray

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