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Repairs for a broad range of sound-generating equipment including speakers, sound bars, and speaker components.

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How can I replace my HoM Get Together Bluetooth Speaker power supply

House of Marley Get-Together Mini Bluetooth speaker (Model EM-JA013) has had Micro USB port replaced twice already. I’m not that good at soldering, so the first time I replaced it for the owner one of the pads was peeled off a bit. I did everything I could to reconstitute the pad and, yay, it powered on and worked…for a while. The owner is an aggressive plugger.

The owner, a friend of mine, bought a new one and gave me the old one. I managed, just barely, to attach yet another new micro-USB to the power supply board and it worked yet again…for a while. Despite being very careful, the USB port again came loose and somehow got damaged beyond use. I”m NOT an agressive plugger.

Tried to get a new power-supply from the company, including offering to pay for the board and shipping. I thought, “it can’t be too much, it’s so small”, but the company refused and insisted that I could only send the entire device to them for repair. That would cost as much as a new speaker, which is the racket, innit?

The issue can now be solved with magnetic charging cables (no more plugging and unplugging), so I’m game to get it working yet again. I WILL NOT accept that this cannot be fixed. But I’d prefer not to spend the time attaching yet another USB plug to the little circuit board. It’s so tiny I can barely see it, even through a high-quality work light with crystal magnifier. And besides, I think I’m missing an easier solution.

Any ideas about replacing the whole power supply? Or do I just need to attempt another USB replacement? Something else I’m missing?


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My front Marley Bluetooth speaker got peeled..any solution to get it glued?

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I’m not to good in soldering as well. But I found an easy fix I guess… on the boards backside are the conveniently labeled connectors “ground” an “5v in” so I simply cut apart a super cheap USB-c charging cable (extension so I would have an usbc input port) and soldered the two cables to the points… then hotgued the imput directly to backcover so it's not gonna come loose again… I jumped a few resistors on the line I guess, don't know what effect that is gonna have, but for now it works ?

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This works! Really!

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Hi, is it works?

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I tried this as well as connecting the charging cable to the main board and I don't think it worked... I'm using a USB C but it should still work I reckon. I did swap out the battery because it was fully dead as well though. The new battery has the same specs. The charging light does not come on when plugged in, but the board is getting power from the charging cord (checked with multimeter).

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I’ll presume you can’t run it off the USB type-A socket next to the mini. If so, it’s sad - the type-A is much more robust, but you could bridge the mini +V to the type-A.

Otherwise, I’d graft a short pigtail to a standard coaxial power socket and get the matching plugged supply at 5V and 1/2+ Amps. Early cell phone chargers were 5V @ ~1A and Very well made (I have several). Just be certain of correct polarity. I hate the mini-USB: Way too fragile.

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Indeed the USB-A seems to be an output for charging other devices through the speakers, which I find a bit absurd. I guess people might do that but it seems just overcomplicating something that should be simple. Bridging the mini to the A is interesting but I just don't have the expertise to know which wires should go where.

I understand part of what you're saying. I have some old 5V phone chargers. Just not sure how to get it into the speakers. Through the power supply board? I'm assuming you mean to bypass the board altogether? Or do you mean cut the multi-colored wires leaving the board (left in the top pic), twist 'em together and connect them to the charger?

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Sorry I can’t be of any help. But I have one of these speakers in my shop right now. I am looking for a charge port for it. But I can’t seem to find a part number anywhere. Where did you get yours from?

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Hi, if I'm understanding you correctly you want to replace the USB port itself? I ordered a string of USB ports from AliExpress. First I de-soldered this one from the power supply board and then matched it as best I could to pictures on AliExpress of replacements. It worked fine the first time I replaced the USB port, but since I peeled the pads up (it was my first time replacing a USB port), when the 2nd port went bad I had a !&&* of a time getting it to work. It did, but the bridge I made to replace the pads wasn't very good, and the space between pads was so tiny it was very difficult to even see, much less fix.

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Dump the jack board. Just connect 5V across the two marked wires (5V and ground) to a USB cable (cut off the mini USB plug and use the red and black wires.

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Thanks to comments above I fixed my daughter’s “Get together”. I scrapped the jack board and just connected a USB cable (red and black are 5V and ground) to the main board using the marked wires from the jack board. Agree that the mini USB connector is an accident waiting to happen and is for most folks a waste of space.

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Confirming that, though it had lain unused for months at least, The Get-Together speaker charged up and seems to be working fine, connected to a couple of phones and my laptop. If I were to start from scratch again, I'd source a female USB A connector and mount it so a standard USB cable can be plugged in just for charging. As it is, the cable I connected is a bit messy but, hey, it works!

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This solution seems me very elegant. Could you give us more detailes informations about this procedure? I believe it is better leave the USB as a charger in and forget about the original charger system. I don't need toncharge my cellphone using my marley sound box, I just want listen to the music. Please, give us the step by step to fix it. Thank you again.

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Hi Atticus, I’m having the same problem with my speaker but I don’t think I can safely detach the back PCB from the larger board. I’m new to fixing these sort of things so any input on how you did this would be much appreciated.

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I'm not sure which version of the speaker you have. Mine was the Get Together Mini and the power supply board was completely separate from any other boards. It was hot-glued into place and the most trouble I had was removing the hardened glue so that I could get the thing out. I took pictures: maybe I can create a guide to show how I dismantled it.

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Can confirm the hard part is getting through the glue. But as the jack board is redundant, no need to worry.

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The microUSB is prone to fail again so I didn't bother to replace it. Instead, I pried the back off to expose the screws that hold the front speakers on. Then I had access to the inside. The power board with the defective USB has a ribbon cable that is glued inside stopping you from pulling it out but if you have the front speakers out you can see the ribbon cable. On the bottom of the power board is writing indicated 5VIN and Ground. Using a sharp knife, i separated the ribbon cable so that the two wires were freed up. Then I sliced open a small amount of the wire insulation to expose the copper wire. I had a 5V DC adaptor and cut the connector off to give me a positive and negative wire. Then I spliced the wired together. On the ribbon cable, the positive was the first wire on the right and then moving left, the third wire was negative (but it's marked on the board anyway).

Now I have a 5 V adaptor hard wired in that I can use to charge the battery or run right off the wall outlet. Everything else works as normal except for the useless USB port.

Not a hard repair. Just need to have a good working surface and plenty of light.

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