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TV shut down and will not turn back on

Samsung Plasma PN64D8000FFXZA started shutting down on it’s own but would power back up again after waiting a few minutes. It continued to do this more frequently until it failed to come on at all. Tried power resets without any luck. With the set plugged into the wall, the red standby light illuminates and stays on (as normal). A relay clicks when the set is switched on and the red standby light blinks five times before going out indicating that the TV should be on, but without any picture (black screen) or sound. With the back cover removed, a green LED lamp on the logic board flashes 5 seconds “on”, 2 seconds “off” repeatedly until the set is switched back off. The red standby light comes back on again once the TV is switched off (another, but more muted, relay click). With the set still plugged into the wall, switching the TV on gets another relay click but the red standby lamp stays on without any blinking and the logic board displays the same green LED flashing pattern as previous. None of the many capacitors show any sign of bulging, swelling or leaking, but one of the transformers on the power supply board does show evidence of some scorching on the board around one of the pins (see attached photo). This TV has performed very well with a great picture, and although it’s pushing 10 years, it’s incredibly clean and still looks new. Any tips, suggestions or solutions would be greatly appreciated.

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Update (06/14/2020)

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Can you check on the otherside of the board "scorching" if all is OK. May be the solder got broken/disconnected.

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John Dziedzic It all sounds like a bad power supply. Like @markus2 stated, post a good picture of the underside of your power supply so we can see more.

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Thanks for each of your replies Markus2 and oldturkey03. Here are a few more pics of the scorched transformer pin from both the front and the back of the board. It appears that the solder joint has burned off. Not sure how this would occur, but could I simply remove and replace the transformer or will the entire board need to be replaced… if this is, in fact, the problem?[image|2135442][image|2135441][image|2135440][image|2135439]

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I posted a few more photos , including some of the underside of the board in a comment as well as an answer, but I'm not sure I did it properly. @oldturkey03

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I posted a few more photos , including some of the underside of the board in a comment as well as an answer, but I'm not sure I did it properly. @markus2

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Hi,

The connection shown in the 3rd image down from the top, is a dry solder joint. The old solder on this joint needs to be removed and the board connection checked and if still OK the component resoldered so that there is a solid connection i.e. 0 (zero) Ohms between the component leg and the circuit board connection.

If you gently push the component leg on the other side of the board down, you may be able to actually see it move on the soldered side, showing that it is not connected properly.

Because it is a dry joint it is a resistive connection and that is why there are scorch marks, due to the heat build up caused by the power dropped across the connection. Ohm’s Law P = I2 x R Power (heat) equals the current squared multiplied by the resistance.

A good soldered connection should have no resistance at all to the current flow.

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Thanks, Jayeff for your assistance. I desoldered what was left of the old solder on that scorched connection, cleaned everything the best I could and re-soldered the pin. The connection tested good, so I reinstalled the board, plugged all the cables back in and the set fired up as intended. Thanks to your advice, we're back in business and the boys are happy gamers once again!

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