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24英寸显示器,内置iSight 摄像头,麦克风和扬声器。 1920*1200分辨率。 发布于2008年10月 型号为A1267

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Apple Display A1267 AC Plug Must be Repeatedly Plugged in to Power Up

Apple Genius found a broken wire in the Mini Dvi AIO cord so I replaced the AIO and then Display power cord since there were signs of cracks. Display worked flawlessly for months. Now it’s doing the same thing, A flicker when plugged in so you know when to enter pword.

Then, you need to tease the wall outlet with the display power plug until the display powers up. Apple Genius lady giggled a lot when I told her that with a straight face.

Following advice and posts, I did replace the logic board, and then PSU with known good parts. Display is fine on restarts, not on cold starts. Hot corners off, Pram reset, etc.

I inspected the boards for burnt spot with what I had. An iPhone Macro Lens and an LED magnifying lamp. Nothing burnt.

Display is recognized by two Mac mini’s.

Could this be simply an AC Power Inlet issue and how to check?

Thanks in advance.

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That’s usually a sign of bad caps on the power supply. You need to recap the power supply or replace it with a new one.

There is no iFixit guide for this one, but you need to remove the glass, LCD and then unscrew the power supply for repair or replacement. For this one, you need a T10 Torx driver. In order to release the power supply, you need to disconnect two LED driver connectors and a primary power connector at the top of the power supply.

The part numbers are: PA-2201-02A/661-4821.

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Possible Capacitor Plague or just a bad capacitor. +1

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@danj I think this is too new for capacitor plague, but you never know. The last wave of affected hardware shipped in 2007/2008. The OP needs to replace all of the original caps to be sure it's fixed.

The mDP version is in the awkward 2008 stage where it still sometimes happened, but it usually isn't an issue.

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The banks of caps at C454 and C050 pass continuity. Can you describe the necessary caps, please?

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The display was released October 2008, we had a few that had it ;-{

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@danj So it's potentially still affected by capacitor plague? I tell people with hardware from 2007/8/9 to do the whole thing - like you said, too many old stock wildcards with that range of final problem devices. 2010-present is new enough it's nowhere near as bad, so if you want to do the failed section that's probably fine but even then, best to kill the issue in one repair by doing the entire unit.

For 1999-2006, it's a near slam dunk case of it.

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