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Information and repair instructions for Frigidaire Freezer

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Constantly Running Freezer -20 deg F

I have an Electrolux Fridigaire Freezer FFU14F5HWC. Recently the temperature got so high that it defrosted and we lost a bunch of stuff. We noticed because of water on the floor. By the time we saw the issue most of the stuff in the freezer was frozen again and it was working. I bought a temperature logger and found the temperature to be at an extreme -20 deg F. After doing some digging and trouble shooting I ordered and replaced the defrost thermostat and the thermistor (temperature sensor). The freezer ran for approximately 1 day properly and then is again at this extreme low temperature.

I am not sure what would be causing this.

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Hi,

Did you mean model # FFU145HWC?

Have you checked that the replacement defrost thermostat is still OK?

If you have a DMM (digital multimeter) use its’ Ohmmeter function to test the thermostat out of circuit.

Remove the thermostat and let it warm up to ambient temperature. The specifications say that it should have a resistance value of ~6.2K Ohms at 68 F. so you may have to allow a bit if the ambient temperature is higher or lower. The higher the temperature the lower the resistance value and conversely the lower the temperature the higher the resistance value

Next submerge it in a glass full of ice water, the temperature of which should be close to 32 F. The resistance of the thermostat should then measure ~16.3K Ohms.

If you aren’t getting these values (or close to them allowing for temperature variation) then it is faulty and needs to be replaced.

Check behind the kick plate to see if there is a “tech sheet” for the freezer.

I cannot find the specifications for the thermistor, which you may also have to test just to make sure that it is still OK. If there is a “tech sheet” it will have the specifications for the thermistor.

Sometimes replacement parts can go faulty so it is worthwhile to check and eliminate them and not assume that they are OK just because they’re new.

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Yes, that is model number with the extra F in there. I adjusted the original question. I do have a DMM and I will check that tonight when I get home. What does a tech sheet look like? I have had the kick plate off before and never saw anything however I was not looking for it either.

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@poeller13 ,

Usually it is some papers in a plastic sleeve, but if you've had the plate off you would have seen it.

I'm only guessing this as that is where it was on other frigidaire models

You may just have to test the thermistor to see if the resistance changes when you alter the temperature around it.

Sometimes just by holding it in your hand and warming it you can see the resistance change if you have the meter across it at the time.

Try contacting the parts place where you got it from and check if they know the values of it at 32F and 68F. Worth an ask anyway.

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Thank you very much. I appreciate it very much. Are these the only two things that would create a problem like this? Do you think that there is a chance that it could be the main board? I just don't understand how this issue is happening logically.

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@poeller13 ,

The electronic control board - door part #151 controls the temperature as indicated by the thermistor and also the auto defrost cycle timing i.e. when to start the cycle and when to stop (stop indicated by the defrost thermostat) and to restart the compressor.

If the thermistor and the thermostat test OK you may have to look at the control board

If the compressor is continually running you may have to also check the wiring from the thermistor back to the control board as the compressor should stop when the set temp is reached. This may be a bit hard during the day as a lot depends on how often the door is opened letting in the warmer air (or letting out the cold air if you like), so the temp may not be stabilizing at the set temp, so maybe check first thing in the a.m. to see if the compressor is stopped as the door should be shut all the time overnight stabilizing the set temp.

Don't know the timing for the auto defrost but with most makers it is somewhere once every 8-12 hours and the compressor and evaporator fan should be stopped for about 15-25 minutes to allow the defrost to occur. This time is usually designed to allow the ice to be melted but not for the food to even begin to thaw

The temp is allowed to rise to 32F in the freezer to help the ice on the evap unit to melt and drain away.The melting is sped up by turning on the defrost heater.

When the temp reaches ~32-33 F the thermostat operates to tell the control board to end the defrost cycle and start the compressor and evap fan again to drive the temp back down

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OK. That is what I am thinking. I tested the thermostat and thermistor last night and both seem to be ok. I was concerned that that was a connection issue with the defrost thermostat too so I hard wired it in. The compressor is definitely continually running and it never goes into defrost mode. I know this because there was two days where the freezer was operating properly. I was able to see that on the temperature logger. I could see the temp fluctuate (by a degree or two) then go into defrost mode and then come out and go back to regular temp. Then all of a sudden the temperature drops and "pegs" at that low temperature (because the compressor never shuts down). It is almost like the control module is all of a sudden not seeing that the freezer as gotten to temp. I wish that I could attach the temperature graph. It is very clear where the freezer is working properly and then when it goes haywire.

Thank you very much. I really appreciate all of you help. Need to decide on new control board.

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There's no such thing as too cold for a freezer. The recommended fridge range is 32 to 40 and the freezer recommended range is below 0 with an ideal being between -10 to -20.

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Thanks? I am not sure that you read the question. I never said that it was too cold. I said that it was at an extreme. It is constantly running and will intermittently "give up" causing me to loose items in the freezer. Presumably when the compressor or fan motor overheat from constant operation.

Based on the temperatures that I am seeing the freezer is not going through the normal on/off/defrost cycles.

FDA website says 0 deg F for freezer temp. Obviously the colder the better however not if your item is not designed to operate like that.

Do you have something helpful?

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