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Dishwasher stalls during cycle

Whirlpool wdf320padb3 dishwasher will not run a complete cycle. It will start, fill up with water and seem to get hot, but stalls from there. It will drain completely if select the button. I’ve checked the drain lines, cleaned out filter, but no luck. Any idea what might be wrong?

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Hi,

Have you checked the water temp in the dishwasher hot water supply line?

The temp of the hot water supply should be 120 F

If the inlet supply temp is OK there may be a problem with hi limit thermostat.

Can you hear if the dishwasher is running the wash cycle?

Are the dishes getting wet, especially the top rack?

If not there may be a problem with the wash pump

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Thanks for the quick response!

The water in the bottom of the tub exceeds 120F so I assume the inlet supply temp is ok?

When I hit start, it sounds like water is coming through the lines, but it’s just sitting on the bottom of the tub the top rack does not get wet. So I assume this means it does not get to the wash cycle?

Edit: if I try hitting “start” again a few minutes later and it appears to be heating up but the top rack just wet with mist. I can hear a faint suction or clicking type sound from the bottom as it sounds like it’s try to work. Letting it go for a few moments and it appears to be pumping water int through the side. But it will stall again after a little while of filling up.

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Hi,

It sounds as though there may be a problem with the circulation pump part #16 pump, washarm and motor parts. Scroll down the parts diagrams on the left side of the webpage to find the pump, washarm and motor parts diagram

Either the pump itself or the circuit that provides power to the pump.

Couple of things to try.

Place both spray arms (upper and lower) in a position that you remember e.g. both arms positioned from front to back of machine or side to side and then start the machine.

After it has filled and supposedly started to wash the dishes, open the door and check the position of the arms. If they haven't moved then the pump is not working as it is the pressure of the water being pumped through the spray arms that makes them turn. There is a possibility that the spray arms are clogged therefore no water gets through, although it would be unusual for both arms to be clogged that much or that there is a blockage in the pump and that it isn't an electrical problem. Just something to be aware of.

Another thing to try is to see if you can get into the diagnostic mode and check if that tells you anything.

Here is one one that you can try. Not sure if it is applicable for your model though so maybe it won't work

To start diagnostics, press the following keys in order in less than 6 seconds

Heated dry, Normal, Heated dry, Normal

To rapid advance the diagnostic one interval at a time, press the Start key

When you get to the end your dishwasher will be in normal mode again.

You may be lucky in that there may be a "tech sheet" for your model behind the kickplate (toeplate?) at the front of the machine that details how to get into the diagnostic mode for your model. It may be worth a look to see if one is there.

完成的

You know your stuff! The spray arms do not move at all during the process. I checked diagnostics (there was a technician support document behind that bottom panel wooo) and the code I got was 4.3, which is in fact an issue with the motor not running. It states it is either “loose connection in motor circuit and/or faulty wash motor” or “control motor drive circuit or sense circuit”.

Any recommendations on ways to rule things out before replacing the entire motor?

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Hi,

If you have a DMM and know how to use it, disconnect the power from the dishwasher and use the DMM's Ohmmeter function to test the motor windings for continuity.

If there is no continuity through the windings the motor will have to be replaced.

if the windings are OK, reconnect power to the dishwasher and check if there is voltage being applied to the motor terminals when the dishwasher is running.

Be safety aware when you do this as you are testing for lethal voltages.

If you don't know what you're doing then don't, it's not worth it.

If you do know what you're doing and you don't get any voltage at the motor terminals then you have to prove the wiring / connections from the control board to the motor, preferably using an Ohmmeter which is safer (no power to the dishwasher).

If the motor windings test OK and the wiring is OK from the control board the problem is in the control board.

There may be relays or fuses on the board for the motor circuit so youcould check for any obvious signs of damage onthe board e.g. burnt out components etc. If there is a fuse (not sure if there is or not for your model) there is always a reason why a fuse blows so it may get tricky.

Hopefully it will be simple and it is the motor.

完成的

I ordered the motor assembly and hope that solves the issue. I really appreciate the help!

完成的

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Hi @Keith Turner,

That late in the cycle I’m wondering if there is a problem with the heater. It may be the start of the drying cycle and I think that the heater is turned on to ensure good drying, but I may be wrong about this. ;-)

It could also be a faulty thermistor (or sensor), part #25 pump and motor parts diagram but this is less likely I think as it monitors the water temp at the start of the wash as well. But maybe still worth checking. The tech sheet gives the details - see Note 2 diagnostic cycle time chart notes

Try running the diagnostics using the Tech Sheet - 8537797 - Rev C for the dishwasher and see if you get any error codes. (see p.2 bottom right side)

Hopefully this may be of some help.

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