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I have been repairing xbox's and ps3s with rrod and ylod for a while now and lately i came across two ps3s that after several reflow attempts they are still getting ylod. I dont believe it is the psu because i can still perform a fan test (i know this is not the best thing to do but to me that tells me the power is flowing). I was wondering if anyone knew of other causes or if some ps3s are just beyond repair.
Thanks in Advance,
Cody
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Sometimes the soldering on GPU chips will be damages beyond repair. The next thing to do would be to do what is called a "reballing" basically remove the GPU from the motherboard then remove the old soldering balls and replace with new high quality soldering balls. This procedure is difficult if you are new to it and it requires hard to find expensive equipment. Better off just replacing the motherboard if you don't already have this stuff.
Make sure you replace the thermal compound with high quality stuff and also that the heatsink is making contact with the GPU I have seen a few PS3s where the heatsink is not making contact and the YLOD will come back almost immediately.
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Thank you for your response@ XriquX if any one would like to add to this or suggest other reasons please feel free.
Thanks Again,
Cody
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Heyho Cody,
I pretty much had the same.
It can have several reasons:
Either the Power Supply is broken, so it delivers too less power, the PS3's Motherboard is broken as said by XnriquX or, if your lucky, the reballing process, also named by XnriquX will help. The easiest fix would be to try and get a new power supply, but i dont guarantee itll help its a very "lucky" thing to fix the YLOD-.-
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you need to reball it with a reballer
first you put on the reballer and then reball it
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i cannot stress enough...... make sure all internal screws are as tight as you can get them..... if the heat sink dosnt meet the cpu and gpu tight enough it will ylod again !!!
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i had this issue too twice with one board.
i didn't let the heat on the chips long enough.
i had success after putting 'no clean flux' through the chip first, wait for it to dry and then do the heating. Im running mine now at 400 degrees with less time and having more success, but make sure you keep putting heat all over the board as your flowing or else you will warp the board more!
good luck!
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How about trying with flux with the reflow before the reballing process. Have you tried that?
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