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ABS light comes on after driving the car for few kilometers?

ABS light comes on after driving the car for few kilometer, Once the car is parked for sometime, the ABS nights goes off and come back again after driving for few kilometers.

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Please how do I fix my abs light it pops up after driving a short distance but before it pops up I get this grinding/spring noise from the brake pedal until the abs indicator pops up on the dashboard then the noise stops. Please what could be the problem? I have changed the RH sensor but still same.

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Every morning I awake to drive to work and cut car on, the Abs, track and brake light is on...Once I pull off and drive for awhile it goes out. I drive to work and home and it never comes back on, only in the morning from a cold car. Did anyone have any solutions???

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As it's a sensor, it could be getting "jostled" as you drive, but when you're parked it almost "resets" as it's in the correct position. A mechanic would need to view/replace the sensor.

Note: having the ABS light on will NOT affect the use of brakes from a "can I still brake point of view" It will stopped the staggered pressure of the brakes so that you're less likely to lock them. I've driven many months w/ the ABS light on after talking w/ my mechanic about it. (Older cars did NOT have the ABS system, it's newer and just an added safety feature, but not required for safe driving (as long as you're a somewhat safe driver, i.e., you're not tailgating only to jam the brakes last second to avoid crash etc... - Hope I explained that.) I'm also NOT a mechanic so this is info I've merely passing along from my experience with the ABS light.

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An abs sensor is securely mounted to the car a "jostle" will not move it . if it were to move it would have to be completely broken from its mount and it wouldn't "reset" itself into place

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Often when you get erratic sensor readings from the ABS it can be related to road grime and metal filings on the end of the sensor which is just a magnet If you go to each wheel and blow out the tone ring with compressed air or high pressure water it often helps . Or remove the sensore and clean the end of any metal filings or dirt that may be stuck to it. Hope this helps

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i have 2011 vw jetter and i get off and on abs lights come on. but before it stayed on. and then i replaced the abs lt. but that did not fix the proble. and now abs. come on and off again. i put the old abs sensor back on, and still on and off abs lt. come on and off as i drive various miles. i may be diet or a bad wire shaking, connecting. i may be wrong. thanks for sharing.

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I was turning at a light and my abs light went on...once I parked for 15 mins and I turned the car back on abs light went off.

I know I have a bad sensor on my tire front passenger tire I ordered it waiting on it to come in...

Could it be that??

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I am having the same issue as you. Did it end up solving your problem?

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Please advice so that we do not end up buying unwaranted sensors

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Inspect the ABS unit for leaks of brake fluid, even very small wet spots, some the problems listed seem like pressure problems, the ABS pump is trying to keep the ABS unit pressurized but its leaking. The vehicles that correct itself after turning the engine off OR when the ABS light comes on, then the entire system is disabled and the pump stops, so no more feedback in the brake pedal. The leak can be an internal seal leak and you will not see it on the outside of the ABS module so beware. Locate the ABS pump and see how often it is running, sometimes it cannot be heard from inside the vehicle while driving down the road. Hook up a volt meter or test light that can be monitored, the pump should not be pumping too much.

On other vehicles when the VTC or other related systems have a problem, it will also affect the ABS and possibly the Emergency brake light, this does not mean you have 2 or 3 problems, only one system can affect all 3, Trac Control uses the ABS system to control traction so they are interlinked.

Many suggestions given are sound advice, dirt, metal fillings on the magnetic pick up, loose wheel bearings, too much air gap from the tone ring to the sensor due to improper installation or corrosion pushing the sensor out away from the tone ring where the spindle will need cleaned out with sand paper or other course cleaning procedures to allow the new sensor to be installed easily.

Under all circumstances, there should be a code in the computer but the problem here is, can the free code readers at Autozone or other places read ABS codes and TCS codes? I feel a paid diagnosis is better than swapping parts based on a guess. Specially if there is scan data showing the poor system operation, not always 100% but pretty accurate most of the time, an oscilloscope will prove out a bad part in the trained hands of an electronics technician.

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I am pretty sure KK is correct. it's a wheel sensor. They are easy to replace and rather inexpensive once you know which one is the problem.

http://www.amazon.com/Anti-Lock-Sensor-D...

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On the contrary, ABS sensors are not easily replaced if they have been on the car for several years. They become rust-seized in the sensor retaining hole chamber. On the last model we serviced it took a lot of time in banging, and a torch finally to remove it as Toyota used Metal encased sensors on their earlier sensor models. Get ready - not a fun job. And on the rear wheels of earlier model Camrys, the backseat bottom and sides must be removed to access the harness connectors. Put aside some time and energy for this job and be sure to get OEM if you can afford it, or very good aftermarket matching sensors.

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My ABS light was going on and off erratically. Turned out my anti-freeze was empty. Luckily this happened in the winter. After filling it up it took a couple of weeks for the fluid to redistribute. The ABS light hasn't been on since. Don't knock it until you try it. I have a 2007 Honda Civic.

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What year and model car do you have? My car does some weird electrical things from time to time too. It drives me nuts....lol

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That's just not possible

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2 questions 1.abs goes off when begin riding which is good but get over 25mph comes on and stays on why???

2. MANAGEMENT LIGHT always on why????? Tried cleaning sensors changed brake pads front and back bleeding pipes done.???????

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Please how do I fix my abs light it pops up after driving a short distance but before it pops up I get this erratic noise from the brake pedal until the abs indicator pops up on the dashboard then the noise stops. Please what could be the problem? Also I have changed one sensor, plus the rotor n brake pads.

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My 07’ 2500hd Silverado was doing the same thing where the light would go out after I reached 45mph and higher then come back on and pull to the right when the brakes were applied. I googled it and found how to test the sensors for AC voltage with an amp meter since there magnetic and see if a sensor was bad so I tested the voltage readings on all 4 sensors ( without removing the tires ) and found the front drivers side sensor had a much lower reading than the other 3. I removed the tire, brake pad assembly and rotor and found the sensor was loose so I removed it and cleaned the sensor and the area were the sensor is mounted and reinstalled everything and haven’t had the light come back on. Problem solved!

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I have a similyissue with my ‘03 Jaguar XType. I recently had the front driver abs sensor replaced and since then my ABS breaks come on EVERY TIME I break (any speed lightly or hard breaking) and pulls right. After driving a few miles (longer if I get on the highway right away) the ABS warning light comes on and my breaking is normal again (although I imagine my ABS wouldn’t come on if I needed it). I’ve had the breaks almost completely lock up before the light comes on - usually releasing and reapplying breaks helps). I’ve since gone back to the mechanic who read the codes and said that the REAR driver side ABS sensor is bad now. Could that be right?

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Sure, only it's probably both the sensor AND the reluctor ring. If you're auto savvy, you can buy a pair of rings from Germany for 20 bucks and do it yourself. You gotta pull the half shaft out and clean the rust off from where the old ring was, then JB weld the new ring on, being sure it's in the same spot on the CV joint and not out of round. You'll need a new sensor too since the expanded old ring wore the sensor down and ruined it.

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Yup, that sounds right, guess I already answered this, lol

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Replace both items on both LR and RR or you'll very likely get another ABS warning light, for the RR next time. That's exactly what happened to me, within a years time.

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I have a 2002 Audi Quattro A6 3.0 and it never does this but at a stop light the ABS Light came on and the Audi right away turned off, and I turned it again and it keep doing it for 3 tries till I got home what is wrong? Or why does it do it? Please

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I have a problem with my Honda Accord 2010 model, after driving few km,VSA light power break light and ABs light on, can you please advise.

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VSA light???

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I don't have the answer but I'm experiencing similar problems. My Vtc,abs,and emergency brakes lights came on. Found out bad wheel sensor on rear right side of my truck. I replaced the sensor and the computer reads the wheel speed perfect, but now Everytime I go over 32 m.p.h. or make a sharp right the lights come back on. After turning truck off then on there gone until I drive over 32mph. Any help would be greatly appreciated

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It could be wheel bearing is getting bad if not the wheel sensor. A bad wheel bearing can cause the sensor on that wheel to have inconsistent readings as compared to other wheels so that the ABS system detect fault triggering the ABS light to turn on.

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I have a 1997 Lincoln Grand Marquee LS I drive very little. It has a true original 92.000 miles. Not much for an antique 22 year old car. My dashboard ABS indicator light seems to have a mind of its own. It comes on and/or goes off when and where it wants and stays on or off for as short or long as it wants. When it wants to go on, it does so when I reach 15-20 miles after starting to drive and it either stays on or goes on and of f while driving. On or off lentgh of times are inconsistent. If any obviously possible cause is there why doesn’t it stay on permanently and never go off. When it stays off for a long period of time then how did it just fixed itself. Whatever the problem is since fixing it would be much too expensive cause it’s time consuming work, which would cost more than what the car ‘s retail value is. Since the lack of ABS does not affect braking under dry road conditions with a cautious driver’s attention on the road avoiding or very slow driving on wet or slippery roads and slippery surfaces, would it be wise and prudent to let lt be, leave it alone, not to worry about it and disregard and ignore it ? Thank you for your expert advise

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Heya, my Mercedes does the same... And ALWAYS in the moment of automatic door lock after starting to drive... Super weird, no idea, what triggers it.

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Generally the door locks go off once you reach a preset speed; I suspect that scanning the wheel speed sensors begins at the same time. The computer uses that speed threshold as a trigger to start looking at the wheel sensors and I'm guessing it finds one not working so it triggers the ABS light when it sees the fault.

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