Faulty power supply, need to replace Diode
I'm trying to identify a diode from a power supply from 2Tb Time capsule (Model A1409) which is currently not working. The component seems to have leaked.
This looks like a common 4000 series: http://www.thegalantcenter.org/showthrea...
Reading the Stripes
Hold the diode with the separate colored stripe to the left. The stripe identifies the cathode, that is, the direction the current flows. In this position you can now read the stripes from the left going right.
Identify the first and the second stripes if the diode has three stripes. If it has four stripes identify the colors of the first three stripes. Write them down.
Color Code Table
The color coding rating table below is used to identify the value of each color code:
Black -- 0
Brown -- 1
Red -- 2
Orange -- 3
Yellow -- 4
Green -- 5
Blue -- 6
Violet -- 7
Gray -- 8
White -- 9
The last stripe (as long as there are 3 or less) is used to determine the number of zeros. For example, red, red, red will have a value of 2,200 ohms. A fourth band is an accuracy tolerance band. The tolerance rating is shown below:
Gold - +/- 5%
Silver - +/- 10%
Compute by adding or subtracting the percentage to or from the value result of the three stripes.
Faced with a similar problem, but I have all the fun:
Time capsule 2GB, 4th Generation A1409. If i start it – it works. If i turn off and start again - it does not work:
The LED is not lights;
Ports do not lights;
No AirPort connection;
Fan, HDD – spinning OK!
If there is no power for 1-2 days, I'm trying to start – it`s works! I think this is the super magic of Apple!
I'm Check the power supply - running output of 5.2 and 12.2 volts. This unknown element "J6" - as "broken" as pictured above. In my opinion, it's just a bridge into a ferrite ring and its replacement will not solve anything. All who have such a problem, write what you have voltage at the output of the power supply.
I'm trying to connect a working power supply from an old PC. Nothing has changed - if you turn after a long wait - works. If you turn off and turn on again - it does not work! It can be concluded that my problem in the power supply and the element "J6". I think the problem is somewhere in the motherboard and the problem is connected only with the power supply circuit 5 volts.
Found here is the solution: https://sites.google.com/site/lapastenag...
But I do not try it, I think the problem is not a bad soldering or overheating, and something else.
If you see new ideas - I try to warm up this motherboard.
Interests Your ideas!
Sorry for my late post, but I've come across this in the course of other research. Someone asked me the exact same question about the exact same component some days ago, but with a better picture.
If I'm not mistaken, this component is identified on the silk screen as "J6", being "jumper # 6". Indeed it seems to be a simple wire bridge with a ferrite core meant as RFI screening.
Measure its resistance, on- or off-circuit: it will measure about 0 Ohms in both directions. Definitely not a diode. What the leaking white putty is, I don't know, however.
Not the cause of a malfunctioning PSU in my book...
Hi to all. I got the same issue. the drive spins, but the lights from the front are off. time to time, the lights turns on and in a few seconds are of again. After small inspection, the same part on the photo above, looks like is swelling. trying to go on the web finding these part is almost imposible, can we use the another part for it? or there are some work around for these?
Is there no markings? Generally they are 600v 3a