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Eighth generation of the Mazda Protege.

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Bad idle, Rpm unstable

What cause this problem ? Idle move from 600 rpm to 1100 and drop to 400 and back to 1000 non stop. ?

All explain are approximative value.

The model is Mazda protege 2002, 2.0 Lit

The ODB read a alarm code miss fire.

Some people think that could be a timing belt problem

The mileage is around 109 k km

Thank you in advance

Yvon K

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Yvon, does your OBD give you a numbered error code? It is possible that it is your timing belt, but it is also possible that it is your coil, cable, cam shaft or crank shaft position sensor, EGR valve and Idle air control valve, as well as many more items. The error code could help us diagnose it a bit better.

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Most commonly this would be the EGR Valve.

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Mazda Protégé's are notorious for dirty or bad egr valves.

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My 2002 protege (71,000 miles) will shut off at times at a stop light. It cranks back on. Yet it doesnt do this every day but off & on for a few weeks now.

Theres no engine light on. Mazda is asking $140 to diagnos

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I had drops of RMPs and stalls at idle (e.g. at a stoplight) and a O2 trouble code on OBD. I found a crack in the air hose between the air cleaner filter box and the throttle plate. Replaced it myself and fixed the problem.

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It could be your MASS air sensor. If you damaged the MAF, you destroy an electrical circuit, which can make it difficult to start, if not impossible. If you manage to start it, then drive it for a while, then stop, then it will start rpm fluctuations.

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Check your spark plugs for oil leaking into the spark plug port. I noticed my protege acting erratically and had a misfire code so I replaced my plugs and all was well. There's a gasket ring that surrounds the spark plug port in between the head and the valve cove that gets worn out. Check your entire valve cover gasket, or seal, and see if that might be the issue. Also check your oil to see if its been dropping and add accordingly.

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I found it was the intake manifold gasket, siliconed it up runs like new now, apparently its a common problem says the Mazda spear parts guy

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I tried resetting the engine control computer (yes, there is a computer on-board). I did it by disconnecting the battery, tap on the brake (this will drain all the electrical potential from the car), and reconnecting the battery terminals. Note that you may want to gather up all your manuals for your stereo, and remote starters before you disconnect the battery, because they will all get reset to factory state during the process mentioned above, and you will need to retune the clock, radio presets, and pair the car starter to your remote controller.

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I am having rpm trouble going from 400 to 1100ish but no check engine light and my headlights flash really bright then dim. Any thoughts? Thanks

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Hi mine is mazda 323 160i the idling its not stable

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I will confirm whether it is the throttle position sensor on my 1998 Mazda 323 Astina BA 1.8 manual transmission. I know when I disconnect this sensor the car drives and performs like magic but the idle is crap and the fuel consumption is awful. When I reconnect it idle is still crap and misfires like there is no tomorrow but fuel consumption greatly improves. To get an original OEM from Mazda is ridiculous like I've never seen $350 (AUD) so I'm going to take a chance with an after market for like $50 and see how I go.

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When I'm driving in 4th gear sometime the car just dies on me no dash lights comes on sometime and sometimes dash lights comes on at the traffic lights when I'm in idle it dies sometime it starts up sometime 3 to 5 minutes when in idle rpm bounce's inch by inch

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