⟐ Commented 十二月 27, 2020 at 3:12 GMT-7

I performed the Dual Hard Drive Kit upgrade as suggested in the guide at 安装iMac Intel 27" EMC 2429 双驱动器组件（机械硬盘或固态硬盘）

I followed the steps precisely during the whole process.

After the second drive (SSD) was installed, I booted up the iMac and heard loud fan noise after a few seconds. Both CPU and ODD fans are running at full speed.

I have tried resetting SMC/PRAM, but to no avail. I reassembled the logic board twice, with and without the Dual Drive Kit upgrade. It still didn't fix the problem.

So, I believe something somewhere has gone wrong and I need to identify the problem and fix it.

I have also noticed that it is not just the fans that are loud, my game which I play every day at 30fps, is crawling at 6-7fps after the upgrade (still utilizing the HDD though, not the SSD).

Running the Apple Hardware Test revealed failure with TA0P code, which indicates Ambient Temperature sensor/connector failure according to some google search results.

Moreover, Temperature Gauge Pro app reports the following:

ODD 3729 RPM

HDD 1097 RPM

CPU 3917 RPM

Fan Diagnostics: These fans appear to be not working properly : ODD

Sensor Diagnostics: These sensors appear to be not working properly : CPU

Some further Googling has revealed that this person had a similar problem and flipping the LCD Thermal Sensor Cable fixed it for him: http://forums.macrumors.com/showpost.php...

However, I'm not sure which of the cables mentioned in the iFixit guide are the LCD Thermal Sensor Cable, for me to give it a go (I doubt any of the cables can be flipped on this model though).

Any help would be appreciated.

TLDR:

• After installing 2nd drive (SSD) on 2011 27'' iMac,
• CPU and ODD fans are running at full speed, HDD fan at normal.
• Degraded gaming performance at 6-7fps.
• Failure in Apple Hardware Test with code TA0p.
• Something somewhere went wrong in assembling/disassembling (perhaps).

Thanks!

I removed the LCD panel from the iMac and booted it with external Cinema Display. The fans are still loud. So I doubt that the problem is with LCD sensor. Maybe I should pay attention to the Ambient Sensor/connector, since the AHT failure also reported a fault with that.

⟐ Commented 九月 24, 2020 at 12:39 GMT-7

After taking it off again I noticed I had broken it. So I went to Amazon and bought a new one for $26.

However I can't figure out how to place the connector in and I don't want to break it again. Please help

Damaged one:

http://m.imgur.com/a5TsmDL

New one:

http://m.imgur.com/hEmOw7U

And...

http://m.imgur.com/i5qvX2U

http://m.imgur.com/mwICz0Z

⟐ Commented 五月 21, 2022 at 9:54 GMT-7

I did every trick I could find on the web and nothing.

Took it to apple genius bar, my warranty had just expired in may...they tried new power supply and nothing. New logic board, nothing again...so they called corporate and they told them its a "cascading" issue, meaning the power supply/logic board and even the back casing had to be replaced. Anybody even heard of this? it would cost me $1000 to fix it. anybody had the same problem?

⟐ Commented 二月 23, 2021 at 21:24 GMT-7

⟐ Commented 五月 15, 2020 at 16:28 GMT-7

⟐ Answer accepted 五月 09, 2018 at 2:39 GMT-7

Ultimately, I want two SSD’s - a proprietary/blade NVMe SSD with between 512GB and 2 TB of storage, and a SATA SSD with between 1-2 TB. I’m not opposed to taking the entire computer/motherboard apart, but if it’s possible to just do a standard main drive upgrade, that would be preferred.

1. If I buy a standalone SSD config (no fusion/hdd), will it ship with an open port AND a SATA/Power cable sent to the spot where the usual Fusion/HDD would be? If it does NOT ship with that cable, does that mean that I will have to take apart the entire computer like in a usual blade SSD replacement to attach this cable to the motherboard?
2. If that is the case, and I DO have to take apart the entire internals of the computer to attach this SATA cable like in the blade SSD replacement, it doesn’t seem worth getting a standalone SSD config. Should I then just buy the cheapest fusion drive config and then personally upgrade the NVMe drive and SATA together (using the correct adapters and compatible NVMe drives, obviously)? I understand that the speeds are relatively similar with Apple NVMe SSD’s above 512 GB and 3rd party NVMe SSD’s - I’m mainly thinking about cost. OR should I go with a beefy Fusion Drive option (for the upgraded blade SSD) and just replace the HDD with a new SSD?

Also, the thermal detector is no longer needed on models post 2013 because of SMART technology, correct?

Thanks for your help, iFixit!

⟐ Answered 六月 02, 2023 at 18:15 GMT-7

Thanks!!

⟐ Commented 九月 12, 2022 at 4:24 GMT-7

⟐ Answer edited 九月 28, 2023 at 18:01 GMT-7

⟐ Answer accepted 二月 09, 2015 at 22:45 GMT-7

A few months ago I noticed my iMac acting strange, with my screen not refreshing and everything on the screen would have residual images. I did some searching on the apple boards, and others were saying it has to do with the fan not working properly and overheating. They recommended I used smcFanControl, which has done the trick so far. Is there a permanent fix to this? Something I can replace? Appreciate any info.

J.

⟐ Answered 十月 23, 2016 at 18:46 GMT-7

⟐ Commented 八月 04, 2024 at 13:05 GMT-7

Specs

• Late 2009 27" iMac Intel Core Duo 3.06ghz
• 128GB Samsung SSD installed in place of Optical Drive.
• Stock 1TB HD
• 12GB RAM, 2x4GB and 2x2GB. The 2x2GB sticks are the stock RAM.
• OSX Yosemite.

Background Info

• I haven't used the iMac in about a month as I have a Macbook Pro from work that I use primarily.
• I turned on the iMac yesterday and the Startup was VERY SLOW, like 5 minutes.
• I looked at some forums and saw that I should make my SSD my primary boot drive. I did this and restarted but the boot time was the same.
• Next I shutdown the computer and restarted the SMC. This made the boot time a little bit faster, maybe 2 minutes but it still wasn't acceptable.
• Next I reset the NVRAM 3x and this made a significant improvement. It was now at about 25 seconds.
• When I finally logged in I opened up Photoshop and Firefox and they both just bounced on the task bar for about 2 minutes. Photoshop finally opened but Mozilla did not. I looked in the Activity Monitor and I kept getting CrashReports that were taking up 75% of the system.
• I did some googling and it seemed like I needed to run First Aid on the SSD.
• I went to Disk Utility and tried Verifying the Disk and it gave me an error saying that it could not be verified and that I would need to open it up in Recovery Mode.
• I restarted the computer and held down CMD+R and nothing happened, it just stayed on the white screen. I held down the power button until it shutdown and the powered it back up holding option. It showed that I did not have a recovery partition (even though I remember having one in the past). It did show my Samsung Drive.
• I clicked on the Samsung Partition and it loaded about halfway then shutdown.
• I tried just starting the computer up normally without holding anything down and it would do the same thing.
• I decided that I didn't have anything on the computer that I desperately needed so I was just going to reinstall Yosemite.
• I downloaded Yosemite on my MBP and made a bootable USB drive for it. (This took about 4 hours).
• I went back to my iMac and plugged the USB drive in, turned on the iMac, and held down option (expecting that it would give me the option to boot from the USB Yosemite Installer) and it chimed, the apple logo came on, the loading bar got to halfway, and it shutdown.
• I tried this about 5 times and it did the same thing.
• I tried resetting the NVRAM and it just shuts down.
• I've tried Safe Mode, resetting the SMC, option, etc. Nothing works.
• I left it unplugged over night and tried starting up this morning and I get the same thing.
• Yesterday I took out the 2x4GB ram sticks and made sure the stock 2x2GB sticks were properly seated. I tried resetting the NVRAM and it still loads halfway and then shuts down.

I don't know what else to try. When I used it more often a couple of months ago it was very fast upon start up and running memory intensive programs like Reason, Autodesk Inventor, Parallels, Ableton Live, etc.

I am very comfortable taking the computer apart I just don't know what to look for.

Thanks for the help,

Kyle

⟐ Answer edited 十一月 16, 2023 at 11:12 GMT-7

edit: after realizing that an i7 is not only excessive, but also not possible, I would like to know this: Can I put in a later generation i3? like the i3 6320?

⟐ Commented 八月 31, 2025 at 1:37 GMT-7

I have a Power issue with my mid 2011 iMac.

I've already opened it up. I have experience with repairing electronics, etc. But now i'm stuck. On the logic board ( Main board) :

• Diagnostic LED 1 goes ON, this seems a power-OK led to me, I measure 12v on the supply.
• If I press the power button nothing happens.
• I detached all peripherals, sdcardreader, camera, audio, hdd, speakers, etc. Still nothing.
• I checked the power button, the button and cables are OK.
• I can also measure 12v on the logic board.

Questions:

• What can keep it from powering on, what does it need?
• Does it need memory in the banks to power on, ( LED #2) ?
• Could it be a faulty CPU or GPU, does it need that to power on?
• Do all the sensors have to be connected?
• Could I detach the video card an test power without it?

The thing is I don't feel like replacing the logic board, its to expensive, I just wondered if there is any information about the "logic" which turns on the power, could I override it, so I can see where the smoke comes from ? :)..

TNX!!

Regards, Guido

⟐ Answered 八月 11, 2022 at 16:11 GMT-7

I need to upgrade the processor in this mac, currently its a 2.9 ghz i5 and is struggling with video encoding and some general tasks.

I have already replaced the HDD with an SSD and upgraded ram to 24gb so there is little room for improvement there.

Does anyone know which processors are compatible, i know i can just put in the top end 2012 i7 but perhaps something more recent will also work?

I read some posts that a certain TDP is needed and the FSB speeds must be compatible but im struggling to find solid info on this particular model.

Thanks!

⟐ Commented 五月 03, 2024 at 22:43 GMT-7

I have a 2013 iMac that has a Fusion drive. I want to replace its internal HDD with an SSD. My understanding is that I should split the Fusion drive before performing this.

I referred to the article https://www.macworld.com/article/2015664... which discusses the use of diskUtil and Core Storage to get the GUIDs and split the drive.

However, invoking disktutil coreStorage list returned ‘No CoreStorage logical volume groups found’. I then tried diskutil list, which returned more information, apparently showing the fused drives as ‘synthesized’. I read a bit about this in other discussions, and it seems like this is perhaps a Mojave/APFS version of a Core Storage Fusion config.

I’m wondering what I need to do to split my Fusion drive. Is there something else to use, or do I not even need to split the HDD/SSD before replacing the HDD?

Thanks.

-Allan

I wonder if I need to downgrade it to High Sierra, and setup the drive as HFS?

⟐ Commented 十一月 10, 2023 at 14:04 GMT-7

my iMac doesn´t start right, as soon as i hit the power button there comes a Beep, 3 x short, 3 x long, 3 x short. As far as i know it should be something about the Ram or Ram Slot. Since i tried a few different Rams and nothing changed i suppose its actually the Bank/Slot itself.

What can i do?

⟐ Commented 九月 12, 2023 at 14:21 GMT-7

I've tried to restore the original configuration but it's the same.

There is not an exact delay time before shuts off; it can happends some minutes after startup, some hours later or some weeks later.

To restore it I need to put it in stop (with the power button) then press it again to awake it. It turn on again without any problem.

iMac 27 Mid 2010-Intel i3 3.2-2GB DDR3 Ram, OSX10.8.2,ATI Radeon HD 5670 512 MB.

Any idea?

⟐ Commented 八月 15, 2021 at 4:24 GMT-7

⟐ Commented 六月 12, 2015 at 22:38 GMT-7