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⟐ Answered 五月 12, 2026 at 3:53 GMT-7

⟐ Commented 九月 02, 2026 at 19:35 GMT-7

⟐ Commented 九月 02, 2026 at 17:31 GMT-7

⟐ Answer edited 九月 02, 2026 at 11:46 GMT-7

⟐ Answered 九月 02, 2026 at 1:38 GMT-7

⟐ Answered 九月 01, 2026 at 4:52 GMT-7

So, I thought the valve assembly I bought was bad and ordered a new one and installed it (along with new air hammer devices on the supply lines and a new pressure sensor to be safe). I read to turn down the water pressure as well as that can cause the valves to hammer if the flow was too high, so I did that and once powered on and called for the first wash the new unit also makes the high pitched noise when the water is being called for.

I tricked the system and plugged the hot water connector into the cold water solenoid valve and ran an extra hot water cycle to see if the issue followed the connector or not. Turns out that connector (hot connector) also made that high pitched noise when plugged in and it goes away when unplugged. It didn't matter which solenoid it was plugged into, once the connector made metal contact the noise returned. The drum would slowly spin until eventually it pops a 1E error which is time out filling.

Any idea if the board is fried? It's odd since i had no issue with the board at all, just the water leak, but after replacing it the noise and performance issues started.

⟐ Commented 八月 29, 2026 at 20:13 GMT-7

We bought the twin tub Costway washing machine, worked great for a couple months now it doesn't spin dry, timer makes noise but the basket doesn't move, I have checked switches and power all good, if I put the time on and give the shaft a fast spin it slowly takes over and works empty, however anything such as 1 pair of socks and it won't spin, is there an exploded diagram for this or tests I could do?

⟐ Answered 八月 28, 2026 at 3:43 GMT-7

But then I noticed the drum was nearly full with clean water this morning.

I had the same issue with a previous, also brand new washing machine, so this is already a replacement.

I checked other online articles and they all mention it’s fault of the washing machine’s water inlet, but given it’s new and I’ve already had an exchange, I doubt it’s because of the washing machine but I might be wrong.

Any advice would be greatly appreciated.

⟐ Commented 八月 28, 2026 at 2:11 GMT-7

My kenmore washer 110 series will not complete the final spin it only drain the water out.At first i could put it on drain spin cycle then it would complete the spin, but now it wont complete it on drain spin cycle.Every other cycle work but the final spin.model 110 20022013 kenmore

⟐ Commented 八月 27, 2026 at 7:11 GMT-7

So I did a load and then at the end it starts the final spin to dry the clothes. After about 10 minutes I noticed it's still spinning at max RPM. I thought that can't be normal, so at this point I grabbed one of little digital timers that I use for cooking and started it, 15 minutes later it was still spinning at max RPM, I thought to myself there's no way that's normal. So it was like 10 minutes I noticed it was still spinning and right at that moment I started my timer and 15 minutes later it was still spinning, so it was spinning for over 20 minutes, which can't be normal.

So I hit the pause button and pulled the clothes out and had to manually turn off the washer.

So then I did another load of clothes, about a medium sized load, and I listened, when it got to the final spin I set my timer and 18 minutes and 30 seconds later it was still spinning at max RPM, that's when I hit the pause button cause I knew that's just not normal.

So yeah it seems the final spin will just keep spinning forever but apart from everything seems to work fine.

I did notice that when I put the water level at super which is the max setting for the water level, I noticed that it only fills the drum to about 60 or 65% full, I then found the model number under the hood and then found the user manual online and read it and the user manual says something like "You might notice that the water level is lower than your previous washer but that's normal, this is a high efficiency HE washer, so that's totally normal"

Which is just absurd! Since the water level is lower, I also have to wash a smaller load of clothes, so ultimately they're costing me my time cause it takes more time to wash multiple smaller loads as opposed to one large load of clothes.

It's just ridiculous to do that, like "Hey lets make it so there's less water in the washer and then slap HE on it and call it a day"

No, please just give me more water so I can wash a large load like I've been doing all my life.

⟐ Answered 八月 23, 2026 at 7:43 GMT-7

⟐ Commented 八月 22, 2026 at 12:12 GMT-7

I have a Kenmore Elite Oasis - Model #11027072602. When doing a load the other day, I encountered the ‘LD’ Long Drain error code. Assuming the issue was related to either a faulty or blocked Drain Pump, I went ahead and ordered a replacement on Amazon for ~$25, just so I’d have the part if needed.

After removing the back sheet metal panel, I was pretty sure I saw some loose articles of clothing through the clear tub - which I thought might be causing the issue. Using a flathead screwdriver, I popped the top portion of the washer (directly below the lid) and unsnapped the several tabs holding the clear plastic tub ring in place. At this point, even if removing the agitator and spin basket WASN’T necessary to remove any stray handtowels or socks that had gotten stuck between the basket and tub (which I think it is), the amount of gunk and just general grossness caked on the tub made me want to remove it so I could give it a good wash.

Problem is, the bolt under the agitator cap won’t budge AT ALL. I’ve tried everything - WD-40, hammering lightly with a mallet to try and unfreeze, speeder bars and regular socket wrenches. The 7/16 bolt just won’t break free.

After hours of trying, I gave up and decided to inspect the pump to see if I could at least get the washer back to a functional state. After setting it on its side, I could immediately see that one of the two blue wires running into the old Drain Pump had jarred free and was just dangling. At that point I decided to just replace the pump (knowing it was 23 years old and probably due), and because I couldn’t get the loose wire to stay in its slot, I soldered both wire connections. Put everything back together and the washer successfully did a self-clean cycle - but I’m definitely still seeing at least 2 hand towels and a sock spinning around the clear tub.

Two questions I’m hoping for help with:

1. How in the world can I remove the stubborn and frozen 7/16 agitator bolt so I can lift the basket and tub?
2. I assume the stray clothing thats between the basket and tub isn’t good for the washer. How critical is it to remove? Will this cause premature wear on the pump? Is there anyway to access the socks/towels withoutremoving the basket?

Thank you!

⟐ Answered 八月 22, 2026 at 9:22 GMT-7

⟐ Commented 八月 20, 2026 at 12:28 GMT-7

⟐ Edited 八月 18, 2026 at 1:39 GMT-7

⟐ Commented 八月 17, 2026 at 18:03 GMT-7