⟐ Answered 六月 25, 2026 at 18:54 GMT-7

⟐ Answered 十二月 04, 2025 at 7:40 GMT-7

⟐ Answered 七月 08, 2026 at 1:48 GMT-7

I’m having a problem with my PS5 (original model with disc drive), and I’m hoping someone can help.

The console works fine on the home screen, but when I play certain PS5 games like Spider-Man 2 or sometimes Fortnite, it suddenly shuts off completely after about 5–10 minutes. The screen instantly goes black, the PS5 loses all power (no lights at all), and I can’t turn it back on unless I unplug the power cable and plug it back in.

I already cleaned the fan and removed the dust I could reach, but the problem is still there. The console isn’t in a closed space and has plenty of airflow around it.

Has anyone experienced something similar? Do you think this sounds like a power supply issue, overheating, or something else?

Any advice would be greatly appreciated. Thanks!

⟐ Answered 七月 07, 2026 at 23:58 GMT-7

battery new

cable for charging board new

charging board new

everything new but the Bluetooth not working when i click share with ps

thanks from Syria

⟐ Answered 七月 07, 2026 at 23:54 GMT-7

I had/have a problem with my old PS2 SCPH-30003 daughterboard. This small board holds a CR2032 battery and the clock chip I believe. I noticed that after a few months, the new CR2032 battery I had put in was totally flat.

So, I tested the board and found out that there was a 100μA current draw with the board completely isolated and disconnected. Supposedly this isn't right.

On my original board, I did notice some kind of corrosion around the negative battery holder terminal, as well as the pins of the clock chip. I didn't see anything like this on the replacement board.

But after testing said replacement board I bought (listed as working), the exact same thing is happening...

The weird thing is, that the original Sony battery from both boards had NOT drained. Both were sitting at around 3.08v.

Does anyone know what might be going on here?

Thanks in advance!

⟐ Commented 七月 07, 2026 at 4:44 GMT-7

However, the rear case is still firmly stuck near the L1 and R1 triggers. I've read about the hidden clips in newer revisions and tried prying the rear shell outwards while pulling up, but they won't budge. I'm afraid of applying too much force and cracking the shell or breaking the motherboard.

Does anyone have a specific trick or a different angle for a spudger to pop these specific 'hidden' clips near the shoulder buttons without damaging the plastic?

⟐ Edited 七月 07, 2026 at 1:04 GMT-7

This evening I tried turning it on because I hadn't tried to in a while and for the first time I noticed a tiny spark close to the fan. There was also a slight smell of burned electronics. Being the DIY guy that I am, I took it apart to find that a SMD capacitor had ruptured.

Does anyone know the rating of the broken capacitor I've highlighted in the photo? The mainboard is the PS4 SAA-001 from the PS4 CUH-1001A model. Your help is highly appreciated.

Hi @honakrisi

Thanks for your response. In my spare time today I managed to get the blown capacitor off the board. It just fell away in pieces as soon as I put a pair of tweezers to it.

Just as you mentioned, I do see some damage to the adjacent capacitors. I will take your advice and have those replaced as well. You also mentioned damage to the pad below the cap. but I'm not at all sure if it's the case here. Please take a look at the pics and let me know what you think.

Does it look repairable?

On a side note, I wish there was a way of knowing the capacitance without having to remove a good one from the board.

Hey @honakrisi

Got you on the pads. I’ll try to get them cleaned up soon and report back on their condition. Thanks a million for going the extra and demonstrating what healthy pads look like. On the board, there are some sections with pads where capacitors would be installed but are left blank. The empty pads are copper color (pictured). Hopefully this is a tiny indication that the pads where the capacitor exploded are still healthy.

⟐ Commented 七月 06, 2026 at 8:27 GMT-7

⟐ Commented 七月 06, 2026 at 5:59 GMT-7

I have tried:

1. Using the DualShock Calibration GUI on a PC, but it didn't work.

2. Using the DriftGuard app on an Android phone via USB-C, but it fails to save the calibration permanently.

3. Hard-resetting the controller using the pinhole on the back.

The main issue is that I do NOT have access to a PC at home to run complex Python scripts or specialized tools. Is there any known way to permanently save Hall Effect calibration on firmware A-0630 using only a mobile phone or a specific button combination on the controller itself? Or is there a newer mobile-friendly tool that supports this firmware?

Ive tried multiple troubleshooting steps like calibrating it but it works for the moment its connected only once its disconnected from the calibrating source it starts drifting again

⟐ Commented 七月 06, 2026 at 4:20 GMT-7

⟐ Commented 七月 06, 2026 at 3:34 GMT-7

Currently I've been working on my uncle's controller for a few hours now that I got the charging port replacement I need. I've done what I've usually do, try and learn about the part I'm dissembling, the only problem I keep finding is.. there's no videos about the exact motherboard my uncle's controller have, not only that but it also has a surface mounted charging port or "SMD" for short. Tried using some solder and flux to get the said SMD off but I can't, even then the motherboard has the white plastic block extremely close to the 5 pins in the back so the soldering tool my uncle bought me can't get in-between unless I wanna melt the tan ribbon and the white plastic block. I'm making this in hoping there's someone out there that has to replace a charging port on a MSU_VX8_0.14 before. Also, the SMD has four legs that sits on top of the motherboard with two plastic legs that go through said motherboard and 5 pins in a line in the back. Help would really be appreciated, anyways I hope everyone is having a good day.

⟐ Commented 七月 05, 2026 at 23:47 GMT-7

Hi

I managed to release the magic smoke out of my ps5. I can't remember exactly what happened since it was a while ago. Anyway it now has the powers on for two seconds with blue light then switches off fault.

I somehow managed to trace the fault to the area circled in red. All stages but the last two are shorted. I checked in diode mode across each of the capacitors, everyone of them except the last two (bottom) are shorted.

My plan was to remove them one by one and see if the short on each of them disappears. I am hoping it's not the smd ic next to the caps because thats beyond my skill set.

Anyway I can't seem to desolder the cap off. I managed to get one side off but the otherside won't budge. I don't want to use hot air because am inexperienced and there are very very tiny smd components on the other side. What am I doing wrong?

What is this area for anyway?

⟐ Commented 七月 05, 2026 at 17:37 GMT-7

⟐ Answered 七月 05, 2026 at 14:21 GMT-7

I have tried 2 different hard drives, 3 different usb drives and even downloaded it from different computers and different browsers.

I have tried both usb ports on the console aswell.

Nothing has worked yet.

when I try to reinitialize I get two errors in separate occasions.

SU-30625-6

SU-30645-8

If anybody knows how to fix this please help!

⟐ Commented 七月 04, 2026 at 17:44 GMT-7

⟐ Answered 七月 04, 2026 at 17:43 GMT-7

⟐ Commented 七月 04, 2026 at 17:39 GMT-7

⟐ Answered 七月 04, 2026 at 4:43 GMT-7

Under Game in the menu, no disk selection is present.

System recovery doesn't restore the previous settings.

⟐ Answered 七月 03, 2026 at 12:15 GMT-7

⟐ Answered 七月 02, 2026 at 11:02 GMT-7