I took it to a phone repair shop. The technician replaced the battery with a new, fully charged one.

The phone showed a green charging indicator light, so it appears to be receiving power.

However, when pressing the power button (or any button combination), the phone still does not turn on – there is absolutely no reaction, no logo, no vibration, nothing on the screen.

The repair technician suspects the problem might be with the motherboard (main board), but I would like a second opinion before proceeding with an expensive repair.Additional details:Model: Sony Xperia C4 Dual (E5333 / E5343 – dual SIM version)

The phone was not dropped, wet, or exposed to extreme heat/cold during storage.

No visible corrosion or damage inside when the battery was replaced.

Has anyone experienced a similar issue with an Xperia C4 (or similar Sony Xperia models) after long-term storage? Could it be a simple fix like a faulty power button, corrupted firmware, or a deeper motherboard issue? Any troubleshooting steps or repair guides would be greatly appreciated!

⟐ Commented 四月 20, 2026 at 22:00 GMT-7

My Conair pro airbrush turns on but doesn’t rotate.

Please guide me on how to fix it thank you.

Thank you

⟐ Commented 四月 20, 2026 at 21:53 GMT-7

the sd card slot what is it? rev f lcd model.

I have swapped out the battery with a new one and still getting the same problem. I have confirmed the battery are charged as both the old and new battery reads 4V on my voltmeter. When I hook it up to an wall charger however, it connects then stayed powered on.

I have also done the trivial troubleshooting such as holding the PS button and Select/Share button to re-pair (Bluetooth), also press & holding the Reset button for 10 seconds to wipe out the paired address but to no avail. I do not have a PS4 console if its somehow needed to access certain settings or tools

If the community are stumped then im fine with using this controller soley wired as that works correctly.

Edit: I should mention that I never seen the LED bar changed to other colors other than Yellow & Off.

Edit 2025-11-19: Okay, I've seen the LED changed to green when plugged into my PC and playing a game, specifically Ace Combat 7.

⟐ Answer accepted 四月 20, 2026 at 21:17 GMT-7

⟐ Commented 四月 20, 2026 at 20:33 GMT-7

My 2014 Grand Cherokee, 5.7L, RWD, Limited, has been exhibiting a vibration noticeable in the steering wheel as well as in the floor of the vehicle at highway speeds ever since I got it in 2013.

It had new tires, brakes (including rotors), rotations, and even new specific part number wheel hubs (front) put on (per the bulletin I found). The issue persisted.

At first I believed the vibration was only in the steering wheel, because it was too difficult to notice anything beyond that. But I eventually noticed that I can also feel and even hear vibration in the rest of the vehicle especially when I have something loose in the trunk.

At this point I am thinking driveshaft, but after those expensive hubs I am not keen on just tossing money at it without asking for advice first.

The vibration used to be bad only between 72 and 80 MPH (going with flow of traffic :) ). Now I believe it only changes frequency but doesn't go away at higher speed. Also noticed that on first drive of a cold day vibration is worse, more aggressive, at least in the steering wheel.

Throwing the car in Neutral doesn't change vibration. Vibration occurs whether i am accelerating, coasting or decelerating.

In the days of heavy traffic I rarely got it up to the vibration speeds. Since 2020, and now being a bit out of the city, it is an issue I experience every time I am on a freeway.

Any help/direction would be highly appreciated.

Igor.

⟐ Commented 四月 20, 2026 at 20:31 GMT-7

I was then asked to update the firmware but then found out the updater was switched off due to a current firmware issue, but they have fixed that now and i was able to update the firmware. The Soldering iron does seem a little better but i still have to unplug it a few times to actaully get it to work. When i switch the hub on the iron shows as connected and the temp shows but as soon as i switch the iron on it disconnects and i have to unplug it a few times to get it to work again.

Has anyone else had this issue and found the way to fix this?

I love the design etc but i need it to just work!

Sadly contacting for support is very slow and can take a few days just to get a reply to say update firmware, or have you tried removing the tip etc, basically the first things you would check and not need to be told to check! They really need a dedicated support email

⟐ Commented 四月 20, 2026 at 20:31 GMT-7

What could cause this?

⟐ Answer edited 四月 20, 2026 at 20:25 GMT-7

In the middle of surfing the net my Asus D550ma crash with power failure. It won't power backup nor charge. It begin running real slow at startup before the failure. Any advice?? Thanks for your responses

⟐ Answered 四月 20, 2026 at 20:15 GMT-7

This is my third machine I’ve received from Keurig support and it’s still happening. I’ve done all the needle cleaning, reseting, descaling, and many other fixes. The unit is not even 3 months old.

I’m just at a loss of what to do because I don’t see many people having the same problem. I’m also sick and tired of wasting perfectly good K Cups! Anybody have ideas how to permanently fix this?

EDIT & SOLUTION: I've been able to resolve the issue using a work around. This is not a fix and I don't know why Keurig hasn't fixed it after years of this happening.

When using a milk based K Cup, press it into the bottom by hand so the K Cup is punctured. Pull it up and rotate 90º and close the lid. This gives the K Cup two holes and much less pressure. It has worked perfectly since I've been doing this.

⟐ Answered 四月 20, 2026 at 18:52 GMT-7

My Kenwood Chef XL is leaking oil from the gearbox.

According to this answer (Oil leak top of machine), the grease in the gear box might have dissolved to oil, and as the gear box seems to be unsealed, that oil is leaking. If that's the diagnose, then the way to fix it would be, to either replace the gear box (which sounds appealingly easy), or to open that gearbox, clean it, and put grease in again.

Unfortunately, the technically easier way of purchasing a new gearbox seems to not be simple; they seem to be hard to get, and also not cheap. So, what remains, is the pathway to open it up, clean, re-grease, and (omg) re-assemble in a way that it works.

Ignoring my fear of having to re-assemble those potentially millions of tiny cogwheels that might await me under the hood, I firstly wonder now, how to open the gearbox: I can see 6 phillips screws, but two of them are hidden under a big white plastic cogwheel. The gap between the cogwheel and the screw head is only about 5mm, so not much chance to get a screwdriver in between. I have carefully tried to pull it up, but it sits pretty tight, and I have little desire to break it.

Does anyone have a hint?

⟐ Answered 四月 20, 2026 at 18:48 GMT-7